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PinnacleOrBust posted:I have a set of SE215 for running, I've never had them fall out even during some pretty quick intervals. Just the athletic endorsement I was hoping for! I'm going to get them and take them for a test ride.
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Apr 23, 2015 05:25
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Midorka posted:Getting triple flanged tips will increase isolation. why..... why didn't I think of this....
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Apr 23, 2015 05:27
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KozmoNaut posted:Seconded. They are ridiculously comfortable. They do look pretty good. I think I'll pick up a pair here, $120 sounds like a great price. Any recommendations on an amp for a PC, or if I even need one for 250ohm?
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Apr 23, 2015 05:28
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Hikaki posted:They do look pretty good. I think I'll pick up a pair here, $120 sounds like a great price. Any recommendations on an amp for a PC, or if I even need one for 250ohm? I've only heard the 80 ohm but think they sound muddy/bloated without an amp. Schiit Modi2/Magni2 would be a good place to start.
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Apr 23, 2015 05:37
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Midorka posted:I've only heard the 80 ohm but think they sound muddy/bloated without an amp. Schiit Modi2/Magni2 would be a good place to start. Dang, these things cost as much as the phones themselves. Might have to rethink this decision.
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Apr 23, 2015 05:48
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Hikaki posted:Dang, these things cost as much as the phones themselves. Might have to rethink this decision. To be fair, the amp/DAC will last longer than most of the headphones that you buy money/quality wise. To fully upgrade from that set up, sonically, you're looking at at least $400+ and even then that's marginal gains. You could get something cheaper, but nothing I'd recommend since it won't grow with your system. The Magni2/Modi2 will power anything you throw at it. Midorka fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 05:52
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The O2+ODAC is a good alternative that doesn't come from a company with a history of headphone-destroying products. If you contact JDS labs, they'll help you find the right gain settings for your headphones, and you can custom order it with the connectors etc. you want.
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Apr 23, 2015 06:11
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What are people's thoughts on wireless headphones? My current Sennheiser CX300-IIs are on their last legs, and I'm looking to pick up a replacement. The main reason I'm looking at wireless is because I'm completely sick of Sennheiser's lovely cords. They'll be mostly for commuting and blocking out a very chatty office, so good noise cancellation is a must. I generally listen to dance music and podcasts, don't really care about having a microphone or remote, and the music source will be my iphone + work laptop. Do wireless headphones give good sound? And do they chew batteries? Last question - is there some sort of dongle I could get so that they function with a normal headphone port (eg for an older amplifier at home)? I'm in Australia if that makes a difference - I know Sennheisers are way more expensive here for whatever reason.
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Apr 23, 2015 07:07
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Can anyone tell me if Audio Technica ATH-A900X for ~AU$200 is worth buying?
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Apr 23, 2015 08:41
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Pretty Green Poni posted:Can anyone tell me if Audio Technica ATH-A900X for ~AU$200 is worth buying? Short answer is yes. I can't say I've run into one person with bad things to say about them. KozmoNaut posted:The O2+ODAC is a good alternative that doesn't come from a company with a history of headphone-destroying products. Yes the O2/ODAC is, but there's really no reason, imo, to get it over the Schiit unless you want to save a little bit of money. The Schiit outputs a lot more power and looks a lot cleaner aesthetically. Yeah they had issues with 1 model of headphone amps and they initially handled it badly. I bashed them for it, but they've since got their poo poo together and are making incredible amps and DACs. There's no reason to bring this up again tbh as it's like me saying, "Oh hey guys stop using Tylenol because they knowingly poisoned people in the 80s which led to deaths." It's irrelevant now. Edit: It wasn't Tylenol that knowingly did it, it was Bayer, who knowingly sold aids infected products to other countries. My mistake. Midorka fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 14:06
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Hikaki posted:Dang, these things cost as much as the phones themselves. Might have to rethink this decision. These are just as comfortable as the DT880s in my opinion, and come with huge earpads. They would not need external amplification from most sources: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46586_NVX-Audio-XPT100.html I've never A-B compared the 2 but the NVX are great for the price.
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Apr 23, 2015 16:54
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Midorka posted:Yeah they had issues with 1 model of headphone amps and they initially handled it badly. I bashed them for it, but they've since got their poo poo together and are making incredible amps and DACs. Two amps, the Lyr and the Asgard. The first definitely killed headphones and the second was very likely to also do so. And when they spin complete audiophile bullshit like "adding a relay would compromise the sound", that just shows their priorities are completely screwed up. It takes a hell of a lot of effort and honesty to bring a company back from the depths of audiophooley, and Schiit are nowhere near there for me, personally.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:44
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KozmoNaut posted:Two amps, the Lyr and the Asgard. The first definitely killed headphones and the second was very likely to also do so. And when they spin complete audiophile bullshit like "adding a relay would compromise the sound", that just shows their priorities are completely screwed up. From what I heard others say during that time, a lot of higher end amps don't have relays either. At least that's what Head fi users said in the thread, I don't know enough about amps to confirm or deny that. You're right though, yes two amp models had issues. Again though that was a few years ago and no one has had any issue with that since. Since then they've created some incredibly great amps. Listen, I was where you were a year or two ago, but the company has grown and learned from their mistakes. I see no benefit in getting an o2 unless you want a custom image on your amp. The Schiit Magni 2 and Modi 2 are much better in almost every way.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:18
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Midorka posted:From what I heard others say during that time, a lot of higher end amps don't have relays either. At least that's what Head fi users said in the thread, I don't know enough about amps to confirm or deny that. Well, then I consider them defective by design and certainly not worthy of any kind of "high end" designation. This is completely basic amp design, never make your users have to unplug their headphones before turning the amp on and off because the completely unnecessary voltage spike could destroy them. For some unfathomable reason, there's a large segment of the "high end community" that basically considers anything needlessly convoluted to be a sign of good sound. Or at least that complicated user procedures to make up for over-simplified circuit design are perfectly acceptable. Competent designers have known this to be completely untrue for decades. E: Just the simple fact that Schiit insists on using fully discrete designs instead of perfectly acceptable, cheaper, simpler and better opamps is enough to make me stay far away. You need serious engineering chops to make your discrete designs match or exceed good opamps when measured. I know that makes me kind of a hypocrite, since my NAD preamp uses fancy-pants "custom discrete class A gain modules", but I guess I just trust NAD's engineers to be competent a whole lot more than I trust Schiit to be the same. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 18:51
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Full Circle posted:These are just as comfortable as the DT880s in my opinion, and come with huge earpads. They would not need external amplification from most sources: Never heard of this brand but these are looking good, thanks. Accounts say that they are pretty neutral which is what I prefer. The angled pads look like they would be comfy too.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:23
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KozmoNaut posted:Well, then I consider them defective by design and certainly not worthy of any kind of "high end" designation. This is completely basic amp design, never make your users have to unplug their headphones before turning the amp on and off because the completely unnecessary voltage spike could destroy them. You won't find many high end turntables with auto returns or other amenities that lower to midrange ones have. I don't know why, but that's just how higher end gear goes. I am not saying I agree but it is what it is. Until recently it was considered " common practice", based on what I read, for people to unplug their headphones before powering down a device. I'm not backing Schiit, I'm just stating that they aren't the first. Anyway, I've yet to see an amp even double the price range, discreet or not, measure better than the Magni 2. The Magni 2 outclasses everything in the price range in terms of power and measurements, why not use whatever designs they feel comfortable using, especially if it is showing results? That's the last I'm going to say though, we both have our opinions and it seems neither is going to budge.
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Apr 23, 2015 20:24
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KozmoNaut posted:Well, then I consider them defective by design and certainly not worthy of any kind of "high end" designation. This is completely basic amp design, never make your users have to unplug their headphones before turning the amp on and off because the completely unnecessary voltage spike could destroy them. Just because you have different expectations for certain devices than other consumers doesn't mean that products without those features are bad, or worse than the ones that do. As midorka mentioned, the "headphone killing" was the result of a fairly well known issue in the target community (audiophiles). KozmoNaut posted:E: Just the simple fact that Schiit insists on using fully discrete designs instead of perfectly acceptable, cheaper, simpler and better opamps is enough to make me stay far away. You need serious engineering chops to make your discrete designs match or exceed good opamps when measured.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:29
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Midorka posted:You won't find many high end turntables with auto returns or other amenities that lower to midrange ones have. I don't know why, but that's just how higher end gear goes. That is because high end turntables are exclusively sold to crazy-rear end audiophiles with weird cargo cult beliefs about what makes a turntable good. Which in turn is why 99.9% of the "high-end" turntables you see today are fully-manual belt-driven systems. Firstly because that's what vinyl-obsessed audiophiles want (because complexity=bad!), and secondly because building a turntable like that is surprisingly cheap, leading to enormous profit margins. All this in spite of the fact that direct drive is massively superior to belt drive, and that any decent auto-return mechanism has absolutely no influence on the sound, because it physically does not even touch the arm before it is activated. But designing a good direct drive and auto mechanism is harder than just slapping an elastic band on a motor and calling it a day. My mid-70s Technics will absolutely wipe the floor with any of the popular belt-driven turntables and will continue to do so for decades more, with perfect speed control and no need for replacement parts. Literally all the maintenance it needs is a drop of oil in the spindle bearing every 4-5 years or so, because it was designed right and built right. But that costs R&D money and stops people from constantly tweaking and "upgrading" their turntables. absolem posted:Just because you have different expectations for certain devices than other consumers doesn't mean that products without those features are bad, or worse than the ones that do. As midorka mentioned, the "headphone killing" was the result of a fairly well known issue in the target community (audiophiles). The fact that the issue is well known does not make it acceptable in any way. And yes, a headphone amp that can kill headphones on power down is a goddamn defective headphone amp, no two ways about it. A certain segment of users are apparently willing to accept lovely products like that, but that does not mean the products are any less lovely. We're not talking about a lack of features here, we're talking about basic output protection, something which has been an integral part of any competently designed amplifier for decades and decades. Would you seriously rather ask people to unplug their speakers before turning their power amplifiers on or off, because not doing so would kill them? How long do you think your product would last in the market? quote:If you cared to look you could read their justification for not using opamps in general. A big part of it is that not using them frees them from having to understand the particulars of their designs. As far as I can tell, Schiit has "serious engineering chops" seeing as both founders have worked in high level engineering positions at major electronics companies and Moffat has some pretty cool advancements to his name. If you trust one company more, cool - there's nothing wrong with that, but if you should probably explain why in this sort of case. I have read their explanations and attempted justification, but the fact still remains that they could build a better, cheaper, simpler product by using opamps instead of fully-discrete designs. Saying that it frees them from understanding opamps is completely laughable, since you basically have to understand 100% what an opamp does in order to design an equivalent discrete circuit. The problem is that you need super tight tolerances to build a discrete circuit that measures as well as a decent opamp. If these guys are so brilliant at electrical engineering, they should be able to pick quality opamps based on the datasheets and design from there, and create a better product. So they deliberately chose the complicated less-than-ideal path. That would be perfectly fine, if they would just be honest about it, instead of trying to justify it with audiopile make-believe. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 21:57
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KozmoNaut posted:
The fact there are people who knowingly and on purpose buy a product with a certain feature means that it is acceptable. Just because you can use the product in a way that breaks things doesn't mean that the features that break things are bad (see plugging a variety of computer hardware in while the computer is on, filling up the gas tank of a running car). KozmoNaut posted:I have read their explanations and attempted justification, but the fact still remains that they could build a better, cheaper, simpler product by using opamps instead of fully-discrete designs. Saying that it frees them from understanding opamps is completely laughable, since you basically have to understand 100% what an opamp does in order to design an equivalent discrete circuit. The problem is that you need super tight tolerances to build a discrete circuit that measures as well as a decent opamp. If these guys are so brilliant at electrical engineering, they should be able to pick quality opamps based on the datasheets and design from there, and create a better product. So they deliberately chose the complicated less-than-ideal path. That would be perfectly fine, if they would just be honest about it, instead of trying to justify it with audiopile make-believe. I think they've been perfectly clear/honest about their methods simply being what they think is best. They aren't telling you that you're wrong, just that according to their ears, measurements, and experience the way they do things has their preferred mix of sound quality, price, and ease.
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Apr 24, 2015 00:44
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I ordered a pair of beyerdynamic dt 770 250ohm on accident, meant to order the 32ohm version... instead of returning them I ordered the FiiO e11k to drive them. Coming from a pair of hd280s that I've had for years. How'd I do?
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Apr 24, 2015 05:41
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Google Butt posted:I ordered a pair of beyerdynamic dt 770 250ohm on accident, meant to order the 32ohm version... instead of returning them I ordered the FiiO e11k to drive them. Coming from a pair of hd280s that I've had for years. Since you already put out the money, use your ears instead of chasing others opinions who really means gently caress all to you. It's a subjective hobby. I might hate the poo poo out of the DT990 (which I loving do, they suck so much dick and the treble causes cancer, anyone who likes these has broken ears), but that's just my opinion. So form your own instead of looking for validation, because guess what buddy? If you look for validation in this hobby you're going to go nuts.
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Apr 24, 2015 05:53
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Midorka posted:Since you already put out the money, use your ears instead of chasing others opinions who really means gently caress all to you. It's a subjective hobby. I might hate the poo poo out of the DT990 (which I loving do, they suck so much dick and the treble causes cancer, anyone who likes these has broken ears), but that's just my opinion. So form your own instead of looking for validation, because guess what buddy? If you look for validation in this hobby you're going to go nuts. Haha
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Apr 24, 2015 05:57
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Google Butt posted:I ordered a pair of beyerdynamic dt 770 250ohm on accident, meant to order the 32ohm version... instead of returning them I ordered the FiiO e11k to drive them. Coming from a pair of hd280s that I've had for years. That one says that 16-150ohms is recommended. Is that going to work with them? Serious question.
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Apr 24, 2015 06:10
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Hikaki posted:That one says that 16-150ohms is recommended. Is that going to work with them? Serious question. From the bit of research I did, it looks like a few people use it without issues. More than one complaint about the mids, like the angry guy said, I'll find out for myself in a few days.
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Apr 24, 2015 06:29
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absolem posted:The fact there are people who knowingly and on purpose buy a product with a certain feature means that it is acceptable. Just because you can use the product in a way that breaks things doesn't mean that the features that break things are bad (see plugging a variety of computer hardware in while the computer is on, filling up the gas tank of a running car). When a completely normal and expected use case for the product in question results in equipment damage, the design is faulty. The only people who find that sort of thing acceptable are the people who meticulously pack up all the parts of their equipment in velvet-lined boxes in a very specific order between each "listening session" or "equipment audition", ie. crazy audiophiles. They're not listening to music, they're practicing a whackjob religion. To use a car analogy, it would be like having to turn off the radio manually before shutting off the car, because if you don't, the radio will be fried by a voltage spike. There have been products like this on the market, such as old all-in-one PCs with the floppy drives next to the CRT monitor, which would erase any floppies left in the drive during power-on. A wonderful feature, especially since the OS was stored on a floppy, and thus extremely likely to be left in the drive all the time. We have a word for products like that. It's "defective". It is not the same thing as preferring manual actions in order to have more of a "connection" with the gear and music. My turntable is fully manual, because that's what I wanted. I wanted something as far as reasonably possible from opening a playlist of MP3s and clicking "shuffle", so I deliberately avoided semi-auto and full-auto turntables. Not because of any perceived sonic benefit, but because I want to start/stop and cue up tracks myself. Can things go wrong if I mess up? Sure, but that's no different than scratching a CD or accidentally deleting an MP3, ie. it's out of the expected playback workflow. The equivalent of the headphone-killing Lyr would be if my turntable randomly decided to suddenly spin the opposite way, scratching the record and destroying my cartridge. I certainly wouldn't use that turntable to play anything again, at least not before seeing if I could fix the problem, and testing it thoroughly afterwards with a sacrificial record. quote:Based on my understanding of their explanation, it's that they would rather not have to understand the vagaries of each opamp they might use to the degree that they would like to, when they can build discrete circuits. I can understand why some people do it as a challenge, but claiming that using an opamp effectively is somehow harder than designing a completely bottom-up implementation of the same functionality, is completely laughable. quote:I think they've been perfectly clear/honest about their methods simply being what they think is best. They aren't telling you that you're wrong, just that according to their ears, measurements, and experience the way they do things has their preferred mix of sound quality, price, and ease. If they would just be honest that they've settled on fully discrete designs because it is a challenge and because they think it's fun, that's one thing. But they continue blathering about how it "sounds better", even thought an opamp-based design can demonstrably measure better while being cheaper, more compact and easier to design and build. E: Admittedly this source is biased (NwAvGuy designed the O2 and ODAC), but every competent electronics engineer and tech agrees with his points: http://nwavguy.blogspot.dk/2011/08/op-amps-myths-facts.html KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 09:14
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Google Butt posted:Haha Nothing against you BTW, basically I'm saying "kick back and enjoy!" You're going to get varied opinions from assholes like me that will put doubt in your mind and it's a never ending cycle. My advice is to avoid headphone forums and just enjoy until they break in 10 years.
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Apr 24, 2015 15:28
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Midorka posted:Nothing against you BTW, basically I'm saying "kick back and enjoy!" You're going to get varied opinions from assholes like me that will put doubt in your mind and it's a never ending cycle. My advice is to avoid headphone forums and just enjoy until they break in 10 years. Since you don't enjoy the characteristics of that line of headphones, do you have an alternative in that $200 price range that you do enjoy?
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Apr 24, 2015 20:18
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Google Butt posted:Since you don't enjoy the characteristics of that line of headphones, do you have an alternative in that $200 price range that you do enjoy? Audio Technica a900x for a more balanced sound. The Dt770 sound pretty good actually, satisfying bass and clean drivers with good decay time. They will respond nicely to eq since the driver is pretty clean and quick. The dt990 suck though.
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Apr 24, 2015 20:29
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KozmoNaut posted:I have read their explanations and attempted justification, but the fact still remains that they could build a better, cheaper, simpler product by using opamps instead of fully-discrete designs. Saying that it frees them from understanding opamps is completely laughable, since you basically have to understand 100% what an opamp does in order to design an equivalent discrete circuit. The problem is that you need super tight tolerances to build a discrete circuit that measures as well as a decent opamp. If these guys are so brilliant at electrical engineering, they should be able to pick quality opamps based on the datasheets and design from there, and create a better product. So they deliberately chose the complicated less-than-ideal path. That would be perfectly fine, if they would just be honest about it, instead of trying to justify it with audiopile make-believe. I suppose it depends on your design goals, but I disagree. The O2, for example, uses an op amp gain stage to drive an op amp buffer. Using just two transistors and diodes, it would be trivial to design an push-pull class A/B output stage for a quarter of the cost. This is the very same output stage that's inside most op amps, but can be tweaked for the desired power level so that you don't need to parallel several of them. If you can afford an extra $0.40, the complementary feedback pair would provide measurable and audible improvements. A similar discrete buffer design was published in Analog Devices' book, "Op Amp Applications." Op amps aren't simpler either-- just simpler to implement, sometimes. As you mention, their internal circuits tend to be very complex. Interestingly enough, one of the newer generations of op amps from Texas Instruments is based on a patent by Nelson Pass, who designs high end audiophile amps and DIY projects. The monolithic op amps are indeed optimized, but this is done in a way for them to meet specific targets which may not be relevant to the very specific niche of headphone amps. AD and TI's own monolithic headphone amplifiers, such as the SSM2932 or TPA3120, are a fair bit more complex than their op amps. I'm skeptical of the claims of inexpensive monolithic op amps using matched parts, or that dual op amps are better matched, or that matching even matters here. It's relatively difficult to match bipolar transistors; Analog Devices charges $9 for a matched NPN pair, and close to $11 for the PNP. The wide tolerances on the NE5532 specs (e.g. CMRR of 70-100dB) also suggest that the internal transistors are not very consistently matched. KozmoNaut posted:E: Admittedly this source is biased (NwAvGuy designed the O2 and ODAC), but every competent electronics engineer and tech agrees with his points: http://nwavguy.blogspot.dk/2011/08/op-amps-myths-facts.html Who are these competent techs and engineers? While none of it is outright false, there are some generalizations and convenient omissions. There's no talk about clipping characteristics, ringing, or distortion spectrum or types. He quotes Bruno Putzeys' article on negative feedback (a great read!), but sort of ignores some of the findings. If I recall, the output op amps in the O2 don't have sufficient gain at 20kHz to allow for the 30dB of feedback that the article recommends, when driven from a 10kohm source. Most op amps I've seen also have no protection, just current limiting (at which point they die). My AMB Mini^3 was fried when I unplugged some cans because of the brief short on the output, even though it only uses op amps on the output-- I'm not terribly fond of that design, either. If cost's no option (and in the context of that article, I think that's the case), a simple input transformer can offer a CMRR upwards of 120dB. That's a solid 20-50dB better than a NE553, if not 50-100 times more expensive. As for PSRR-- while it may be an issue in older designs, modern current sources allow for a PSRR in excess of 100dB, even with tube amps. PSRR shouldn't be an issue. Schiit's also made some very well received op-amp-based designs. The Fulla and Mani are a couple. I wouldn't doubt that they are competently designed.
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Apr 24, 2015 22:24
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PretentiousFood posted:seen also have no protection, just current limiting (at which point they die). My AMB Mini^3 was fried when I unplugged some cans because of the brief short on the output, even though it only uses op amps on the output-- I'm not terribly fond of that design, either. So you have amps that kill your headphones because you don't unplug them first before turning off the power, and amps that kill your headphones if you do unplug them first. Sounds like you guys can't win.
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Apr 24, 2015 23:06
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Hikaki posted:So you have amps that kill your headphones because you don't unplug them first before turning off the power, and amps that kill your headphones if you do unplug them first. Sounds like you guys can't win. That's just the ways of the world!
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Apr 25, 2015 04:13
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PretentiousFood posted:I suppose it depends on your design goals, but I disagree. The O2, for example, uses an op amp gain stage to drive an op amp buffer. Using just two transistors and diodes, it would be trivial to design an push-pull class A/B output stage for a quarter of the cost. This is the very same output stage that's inside most op amps, but can be tweaked for the desired power level so that you don't need to parallel several of them. If you can afford an extra $0.40, the complementary feedback pair would provide measurable and audible improvements. A similar discrete buffer design was published in Analog Devices' book, "Op Amp Applications." But this is all theoretical, which was covered in another blog post. NwAvGuy originally followed the reference designs, but that resulted in worse performance than what the spec sheets promised. The design had to be tweaked multiple times to perform at its best. It was the same story with the ODAC, the reference designs left a lot of performance unused. But a lot of manufacturers just clone the reference design and quote the spec sheets for their chosen components, not even bothering to measure the final product. You have the same problem with discrete designs. They work great in CircuitLab, but when you have to implement them in the real world, with real world tolerances, there's still a lot of work to be done, plus you have to account for tolerances when you match components. Using off-the-shelf opamps etc. makes it a lot easier to get consistent results over many finished units. Yes, of course there are use cases where no opamp will do, especially if you have very high power requirements. So I'm not saying that discrete designs should never be used, just that it would be foolish to discount the price/performance ratio of opamps. As for the compentent engineers, I did my apprenticeship at Bang & Olufsen and worked closely together with some of their best engineers, really amazingly competent guys. And they all said the same thing: Discrete designs were used up into the 80s because they were the best option, despite the difficulties in the design phase. As soon as good opamps became available, anyone with any kind of common sense jumped ship quickly. If you're building a one-off cost-no-object best-it-can-possibly-be project and you have tons of time and electronics know-how, yes a discrete design can outperform anything else. But it'll be expensive and labor-intensive and not fit for mass production. Hikaki posted:So you have amps that kill your headphones because you don't unplug them first before turning off the power, and amps that kill your headphones if you do unplug them first. Sounds like you guys can't win. No, you basically have two choices. Either leave the headphones plugged in while powering down, and fry them. Or unplug the headphones before powering down, and fry the amp. Brilliant! 
KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Apr 25, 2015 |
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Apr 25, 2015 08:41
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So, my Audio Technica ATH-a700's finally broke after 6 years of continuous use. The plastic binding around my right cup shattered, and the cup is left dangling by the internal wiring. I have no idea how to fix this without damaging anything, so I guess I need to buy a new set. AT doesn't produce these anymore, and I loved these headphones with its sound range, price and the design (although the top arch head foam pads kinda made my hair thinner, I feel). I got them for 100 USD new on Amazon. I'm not looking for an upgrade, I'm just looking for a just-as-affordable replacement. Also, I never used an amp because apparently I didn't need one with these. I would rather not have to buy one to have the same experience. Also, I loved loved loved the cord in these headphones. They have a textured coating to them, and even when they sat and curled I never once had any issues with the cord. I would like a pair that has the same exact type of cord, or at least a similar type. Any comfy recommendations? Grado nearly isn't as comfy, right? What about Sennheiser? Cromlech fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Apr 25, 2015 |
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Apr 25, 2015 21:41
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Cromlech posted:Any comfy recommendations? Grado nearly isn't as comfy, right? What about Sennheiser? I don't really have a good recommendation for you as I'm in a similar boat myself, but I've tried the Grado SR60 and they were uncomfy but sounded great. Sub-$100 Sennheisers were not so good either. Lots of recommendations for the Beyerdynamic DT770/880 here though. They're a bit expensive though at $150-200 and you need an amp for all but the 32ohm version. I was also looking at your Audio Technicas and I really liked the headband design with the wings. If you liked them then I would just get another pair. I don't think you can get much better comfort and sound quality combined at that price point. As an aside, what I actually ended up doing was buying Beyerdynamic velour pads for my Sony MDR-V6s and that improved them a lot. I like how they sound but they were possibly the most uncomfy things ever. They're not perfect but still quite good now, and the upgrade was much more affordable than getting all new headphones.
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Apr 26, 2015 23:43
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Budget - £100 is my limit but if you find something amazing for just over I'd be willing to do so. Source - Samsung Galaxy Note 4 Isolation Requirements - Something that would block out gym noise but I'm also listening to stuff in bed too. Preferred Type of Headphone - So long as they are comfortable and not earphones I'm flexible. Preferred Tonal Balance - Definitely balanced. Past Headphones - I need a new pair of headphones because mine are broken. Can't remember for the life of me what they were but they were very bass heavy - which I didn't like - and would overtake the high end. They were a little small for my ears too. They were around £70 Preferred Music - A variety. A lot of electronic, but I love stuff like The Mountain Goats, Neutral Milk Hotel and Radiohead. I'll be using these for exercise and listening to music in bed so something lightweight would do wonders. GODS NOT REAL fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Apr 27, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 03:49
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Cromlech posted:So, my Audio Technica ATH-a700's finally broke after 6 years of continuous use. The plastic binding around my right cup shattered, and the cup is left dangling by the internal wiring. I have no idea how to fix this without damaging anything, so I guess I need to buy a new set. The A series headphones are still around, but they have been refreshed and replaced by the Ax headphones. If you liked your A700, I'd recommend just grabbing a pair of A700x.
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Apr 27, 2015 05:35
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Source - iBasso DX90, possibly a portable amp if required. Preferred Tonal Balance - I like some bass. Total neutral headphones sound anaemic to me. I have much bassier headphones for Rock/Pop/Everything Else. Preferred Music - Jazz & Classical (instrumental + male/female vocal) Long story short, I'm trying to decide between the Philips Fidelio X2 and the Beyerdynamic T90. Are one pair considered a significant upgrade over the other? Will I need to amp either of them? I've found the T90s for £285 online (~$430), which is making me consider them, they'd otherwise be beyond my budget.
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Apr 27, 2015 13:01
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Pork Pie Hat posted:Source - iBasso DX90, possibly a portable amp if required. The x2 are bassy without any big veil, but they're open headphones so portable use wouldn't be good for that. T90 are a bit bright and a bit unrefined. I don't think they're worth the cash they sell for at all.
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Apr 27, 2015 18:35
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Any good recommendations for IEMs that can withstand working out at the gym? The most recent ones I had were the klipsch r6i which were pretty solid but I'm an idiot and they went through the wash. I've had higher end IEMs in the past but they eventually broke. Had some shure headphones in the $300 range as well as some ultimate ears that were in the same price range (but they got discontinued likely because they were ridiculously fragile and the company had a good replacement policy). So yeah, I'd be willing to go higher in price than the Klipsch but don't want something that's expensive and breaks easily. I'll put my price range at 200 but would go higher or lower. Source would be iPhone and computer.
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Apr 29, 2015 23:52
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TrixR4kids posted:Any good recommendations for IEMs that can withstand working out at the gym? Don't spend a lot for gym phones. Meelectronics M6 is the most I'd pay for a gym pair. Sweat will eventually ruin a driver if your ears sweat a lot and the cable is likely to short out eventually.
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Apr 30, 2015 00:21
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