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I'm pretty sure he's talking about one of these:  They're on stilts, so you can just back right under them, so that part is potentially a one-man operation. But the tailgate has to come completely off, first.
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Apr 30, 2015 23:46
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Kastivich posted:When I take the top off my Jeep I use a brake winch and line routed through a series of pulleys to lift it straight off. The top is attached via a sling made out of seat belt webbing. One person cranks it down, the other person guides it into place. They also have small electric winches you can mount on the ceiling that make it a one person operation. Maybe you could look at some of those setups for some inspiration on a similar kind of lift. Thanks, I'll let him know that somebody else had luck with a pulley system - I was concerned that he'd spend a bunch of time setting it up only to have it not work. Motronic posted:Are you sure you know what a 5th wheel tailgate looks like? I was about to post the same image as Leperflesh (first GIS result for "truck camper") - the tailgate needs to be completely removed, unlike with a 5th wheel. Worst case though is that he was going to get a lighter weight fiberglass tailgate or something along those lines - not an ideal solution since the actual tailgate has a whizbang camera for backing up, but certainly better than trying to put on an 80-pound tailgate on his own.
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Apr 30, 2015 23:57
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Leperflesh posted:I'm pretty sure he's talking about one of these: Ohhhh...yeah, Okay. Then it does need to come off obviously. Could you build something that fits in the back pockets of the bed out of unistrut (or angle iron) and bed pocket posts to help take some of the load off using bungees or something to allow movement? That would be the kind of ugly hack I'd come up with.
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May 1, 2015 00:23
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I used to have one of those air nets on the farm truck. It reminds me of black snow fence... I'm on the phone otherwise I'd post a picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161536...53D823153854367 This is what I'm thinking of. It couldn't hold a ton of weight but it was super handy considering the tailgate was roughly 85% rust, 5% mud and the other 10% was unknown substances. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 00:29 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 00:26
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I think I remember somewhere that putting one of those nets on your truck actually is super bad for your MPG.
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May 1, 2015 02:11
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^That was the result when Mythbusters tested it. Safety Dance posted:Modern oils in modern engines are capable of lasting into the 12K-15K mile range. You can go with your gut (because you aren't hurting anything), or you can get used oil analysis from Blackstone Labs and see what they say. My '12 Wrangler's manual (and alert) say 8,000 miles. I run conventional valvoline and sent a sample to Blackstone at 8,000. They said I could take it to 10 without any problems...and I think 10 is the recommendation for newer Wranglers, same engine (different filter, though).
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May 1, 2015 02:14
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loinburger posted:Thanks, I'll let him know that somebody else had luck with a pulley system - I was concerned that he'd spend a bunch of time setting it up only to have it not work. If I had that problem and wanted to eliminate lifting and assuming I had the cash to buy a one ton pickup new, I would hang one of these up on my garage http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_120327_120327 put a choker strap on the tailgate and buy two furniture dollies. Ta da, no more lifting. The remote would be especially nice to guide it onto one side. I don't know what to do without an overhead support though. If he's cheap and doesn't see the value in having a 440lb hoist permanently installed in the garage, then use pulleys I guess, like these. http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_11839_11839 You really just need to pick up the tailgate from the center so it can pivot and go onto the peg. Mama can guide it while pops tugs the rope. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 02:25 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 02:22
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Waiting for avengers to start. No previews playing and its 80% full with 30 minutes to go. edit: poo poo, posted this thinking I was in the monthly general chat thread. It was loving awesome. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 06:43 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 02:33
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Friend's wife can't go with him to see it tomorrow afternoon at the 3d IMAX. 
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May 1, 2015 02:43
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VelociBacon posted:I think I remember somewhere that putting one of those nets on your truck actually is super bad for your MPG. When your truck is for towing a 5th wheel around MPG is really not your primary concern. In fact, when driving a pickup and hauling air this is still pretty much the case (or at least should be).
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May 1, 2015 02:44
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loinburger posted:Thanks, I'll let him know that somebody else had luck with a pulley system - I was concerned that he'd spend a bunch of time setting it up only to have it not work. Harbor Freight sells a few different cheap hand winches. Mount to somewhere sturdy, rig up a pulley overhead, done and you'd be all-in for under $30. Downside is, you'd need a place to mount the winch and pulley. Winches Pulleys, including a thing that is apparently for hanging deer (?) that looks like it'd be perfect
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May 1, 2015 03:24
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So, this is probably a premature question. I'm not actually going to be buying anything for a year and a half. But I also want to sperg out, learn about the cars, learn about the market, that sort of stuff. Taking the advice from earlier in the thread, once I'm no longer saving every spare dollar for a wedding, I want to pick up a beater to learn to wrench on. The problem is my desires are kind of restrictive, and I'm not sure if they're realistic. I'm wanting either a fun car (quick and decent handling relative to an impreza hatchback), or an AWD wagon. The problem is, I want something messed up enough that I can get into its guts, but I want something that I don't have to worry about breaking down on me all the time. I want something older for simplicity and price, but I want at least dual front airbags and a decent safety rating. I want something cheap to fix, and I want something that hasn't had it's price jacked up by all of the racing/autocross people latching onto them, so no E30, 240SX, Fox body, Hondas, no MR2s, and probably no Miatas. I had been thinking of a Volvo 940 for safety/wagon/turbo, but unless those can be turned into fun cars, they are RWD and wouldn't be a good winter beater for my by-then wife. I also had been thinking W124 300TE/300DE, but then I found out the 4matic transmission is both overly complex and failure-prone. I could list a bunch of other cars I knocked out of competition, but nobody wants to read through them all. Am I asking too much from a car? So far all I've come up with is an old Subaru. Either an EJ22 wagon or an EJ25 and I cut my teeth on engine work with the head gaskets  . We do live somewhere that the only rust is imported, so that helps.Basically, I'm trying to do the same thing as Sperglord Firecock was, but without being a loving idiot about it. I'm trying to learn to work on cars with the eventual goal of having a fun fast car, even if it's not this one. I'm not going to buy a car obviously full of PO fuckery, not going to dream of Initial D racing stardom while being unable to drive stick, and I'm not going to wear ugly blue plaid pants as some sort of ironic anti-fashion statement. I promise. We also have two reliable cars, so if this one has to sit for a while before being safe to drive, that's fine. It will be a nice change from having to do stuff on my car quickly over a weekend so I can drive to work on Monday.
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May 1, 2015 06:16
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22 Eargesplitten posted:So, this is probably a premature question. I'm not actually going to be buying anything for a year and a half. But I also want to sperg out, learn about the cars, learn about the market, that sort of stuff. Honestly, my first car was a '92 Acura Legend that was probably in fair condition, purchased from my aunt. The car was reliable (it IS a Honda after all), easy as hell to work on because of a very open engine bay, had plenty of aftermarket support (and a cursory look on EBay and Google suggests that it still does), it drives well, and I'm sure you could get one for relatively cheap. That last year they were manufactured was '95, available in 2 or 4 door, and available in automatic, 5-sp. or 6-sp. I'm sure there are a hundred better options for a beater to tinker with, but that was just my personal experience, and honestly, if I could find one near me in better than fair condition I'd be all over it.
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May 1, 2015 06:35
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I would absolutely not get a subaru for a 'learn to repair' car. The orientation of the motor makes it twice as annoying to do a lot of work. Look for something with an inline motor maybe.
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May 1, 2015 06:47
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Honestly, I'd not be scared of RWD at all. Simplest drivetrain configuration there is (assuming longitudinal FR layout), and I've been told that they're just fine in the winter if you get snow tires and drive with a bit of awareness.
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May 1, 2015 06:49
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Every old car needs routine maintenance. For old cars, routine maintenance items include every wear item in the vehicle; not just tires, brakes, oil, but also engine parts, transmission parts, electrical stuff, basically everything that can wear out. If you want to learn to work on a car, just get a car that is a decade out of warranty and then do all the maintenance stuff yourself, as it goes wrong. Eventually something "expensive" will go wrong, like you'll need a new clutch or something, and that will be a big step up from just replacing brake rotors and faded headlights and fixing the adjusting seat that won't adjust any more and all that kind of nonsense. The other half, I think, is the easier part. Just go through the first six or eight pages of AI, find every project thread that has at least ten pages, bookmark them, and read them. Also bookmark this thread, and read it as you have time. I've learned so drat much just from other people working through their projects, figuring out what's wrong, goons giving advice (both good and bad), etc. that I can talk with reasonable competence about cars and fixing cars even though I've spent a relatively tiny amount of time actually fixing my own cars. The one thing a person should not do is deliberately saddle themselves with a lovely car that they actually need to use as reliable transportation. It's fine to have a second car as your project car, but you don't want to be trying to learn how to fix a car, on the fly, that needs to be running in order for you to get to work in the morning. That's the situation where you have to take it to a mechanic, in order to have some job security. All you'll learn is how much money it costs for your mechanic to fix your poo poo all the time.
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May 1, 2015 06:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is oil after ~8300 miles, on the second change ever in my CR-V, and still using the factory filter (Honda only recommends changing the filter every other time). I'm being paranoid about it because my previous car started knocking around 240000 kms. But it was a GM 2.4L Twin Cam and I guess they tend to do that. Thanks for posting this chart, that's a pretty neat service they provide. I'll look into getting that done next oil change.
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May 1, 2015 07:05
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Go to their website and order a kit now. They'll send it to you for free, you pay the $25 when you send the sample.
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May 1, 2015 07:13
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Leperflesh posted:The one thing a person should not do is deliberately saddle themselves with a lovely car that they actually need to use as reliable transportation. It's fine to have a second car as your project car, but you don't want to be trying to learn how to fix a car, on the fly, that needs to be running in order for you to get to work in the morning. This times a billion. You absolutely have to factor in needing spare garage space/budget/time for a non-operational car. If you roll into work on time every few days with the lovely beater you're rebuilding; the right people will appreciate it and no one else will notice. Get dropped off two hours late every few days because your heap died, and you're just a loser with a lovely car. I bought a beater to learn to wrench on because I already had a
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May 1, 2015 07:29
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VelociBacon posted:I would absolutely not get a subaru for a 'learn to repair' car. The orientation of the motor makes it twice as annoying to do a lot of work. Look for something with an inline motor maybe. What? Subarus are very easy to work on. Everything sits on top of the motor. The only thing that sucks to do are spark plugs and anything involving the heads, but then the motor is very easy to pull out.
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May 1, 2015 11:53
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 1, 2015 15:24
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22 Eargesplitten posted:So, this is probably a premature question. I'm not actually going to be buying anything for a year and a half. But I also want to sperg out, learn about the cars, learn about the market, that sort of stuff. You need an XJ Cherokee. They might not be very fast but they do everything else you want.
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May 1, 2015 16:12
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Are UK car problems welcome in this thread? I have a 2008 Seat Ibiza Mk5 1.4 liter petrol. I had a steering problem light come on and lost all power steering when turning on the car. Had a diagnostic performed. The code that was given was U111100 Communication with steering control, and 01309 Steering control unit J500 No communication. Mechanic discovered that fuse 1 (car manual says this is for power steering/engine operation) had burned out. Replaced it and that got the power steering working again. Unfortunately after a couple more journeys the fuse blew again, and I'm not exactly keen on replacing it every time I start the car. Does anyone have any ideas what my problem may be?
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May 1, 2015 16:22
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Thank you for all of the advice. Trying to hit all of the points without making a wall of quotes. I wouldn't be relying on this to get me to work. We have a Subaru Outback Sport and a low-mileage escort zx2. Already having a Subaru is part of why I was considering getting a legacy-based Subaru. What little I know how to fix, I learned on a Subaru. I wouldn't mind RWD for myself, but something AWD would be nice to let my fiancee drive during the winter. I would let her drive my car, and take a two wheel drive car, but she refuses to learn stick ( I know, sever  )I had been thinking about just getting a domestic economy shitbox, but I guess I'm mostly concerned that I'll fix it up and then have absolutely nothing to do with it and then sell it at a loss. Not that I expect it to be profitable, I'd just like to get something I would use. I'll look at XJs. I know my friend was complaining before he got his 4-runner about how stupidly priced jeeps were around here, but maybe he was thinking about a particular model, IIRC Cherokees aren't the ones that are most popular for offroading, right? Just the normal about town SUV? Edit: missed one. I'll start reading through project threads again. For a while I was scared off because I had no idea what I was looking at in a lot of those pictures. That's why I liked Sperglord Firecocks thread until he went completely off the deep end, it was all in language simple enough for a beginner. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:22 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 17:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'll look at XJs. I know my friend was complaining before he got his 4-runner about how stupidly priced jeeps were around here, but maybe he was thinking about a particular model, IIRC Cherokees aren't the ones that are most popular for offroading, right? Just the normal about town SUV? Well, if you want one for a project you should be able to find one relatively cheap that needs a few things fixed. Good examples have been rising in price lately I think. The Jeep wrangler is the iconic short-wheel-base off-road jeep; the XJ is THE budget off-roader. It can do a few things better than a wrangler when it's built up some, like climbing steep stuff, but they're also pretty easy to work on and parts are everywhere. There were no fewer than 6 XJs in the junk yard that I went to last weekend, and there were zero wranglers. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:10 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 18:08
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Budgie posted:Are UK car problems welcome in this thread? A lovely replacement fuse or a bad connection/wiring causing a short would be my guess.
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May 1, 2015 18:10
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How urgent of a repair is glow plug replacement? I got a CEL yesterday and the code was a failed glow plug on one cylinder. I'm not sure if it's intermittent or if it's truly toast (I'll take a multimeter to it later today), but assuming they need to be replaced, is it something I can put off for a bit? With 3 other glow plugs that work, combined with the warm weather, it's starting just fine, but I'm new to diesels and I would hate to put off the maintenance if it's going to do more damage in the interim.
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May 1, 2015 19:09
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Leperflesh posted:I have to pass smog once every two years. I can go with a high-viscosity oil once every two years if that's what it takes. The oil that gets into your cylinder isn't what prevents wear, it's the amount that gets splashed on the back of the piston, which will be reduced with a higher viscosity oil.
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May 1, 2015 19:40
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I just pulled a P0446 code from my 02 Silverado 1500, evap purge valve/solenoid stuck closed. According to my research it's a fairly common problem across a bunch of chevy models and years so there are a bunch of diy fix-it guides out there. Like this one: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/threads/quick-fix-for-code-p0446-evap-emissions-vent-circuit-low.18964/ I crawled under, found the filter box, traced the purge line to the valve and undid the bracket bolt. From there, I can't turn it enough to find the supposed hole I need to blow out. The valve is in a bitch of a spot, kinda above the fuel tank near the frame rail. I can see it through the gap between the cab and the bed but really only get at it from one spot from below. I need to renew my tags, which means an emmisions test. I imagine the (WA state) test runs some routines that make any codes like this pop up if I tried to clear them and sneak it by before the drive cycle makes it come up again. So does anyone have any advice on how to fix this? Anyone done it before? Alternatively (and useful for some work I gotta get done soon anyway), can anyone recommend a shop in the Vancouver, wa or portland metro area that they trust?
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May 1, 2015 20:33
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Budgie posted:Are UK car problems welcome in this thread? UK questions are welcome but the majority of the people answering the questions here won't be familiar with your vehicle (I'm not). As mentioned above you either have a bad fuse or something is shorting out that circuit. That could be a faulty part or a damaged wiring loom, or damaged insulation where a wire goes through firewall or something. Has the car been in an accident recently? Have you driven through a massive puddle recently?
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May 1, 2015 20:35
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EightBit posted:The oil that gets into your cylinder isn't what prevents wear, it's the amount that gets splashed on the back of the piston, which will be reduced with a higher viscosity oil. It's a 220k-mile GM V6 that's already burning oil. Any minor change in internal engine wear due to running a thicker oil is not going to be what does that engine in.
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May 1, 2015 21:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's a 220k-mile GM V6 that's already burning oil. Any minor change in internal engine wear due to running a thicker oil is not going to be what does that engine in. Exactly this. Also, this truck is worth maybe $1500 as it sits. It's got rust (it lived near a beach for many years, so the cancer has been stopped, but the rust is there), it's got a big dent on one side, the A/C stopped working years ago and we had it removed rather than pay over a grand to fix it. I want a beater for my brother to get to work for maybe a couple months, and after that, it will go back to sitting in my driveway and getting used for the occasional run to Home Depot or a furniture store. If it gets 12k miles of engine wear over the next 2k miles, that's acceptable. It just has to pass smog.
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May 1, 2015 21:44
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Because OILCHAT I have to ask: Had my oil changed a few hundred miles ago and went with the usual 5W. The attendant asked if I wanted to swap to high mileage synthetic since the truck is so old. Said I'd consider it on the next change. 1995 Nissan 2WD VG30 (V6 3.0L) 5-spd that just hit 70k. No magic smoke escapes from it and it throws no codes. Am I going to dislodge any good gunk if I swap to this other type of oil or is that an old shadetree's tale that it'll trigger leaks because of the detergents?
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May 1, 2015 23:14
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If your poo poo's so hosed that gaskets have been replaced by solidified oil sludge, it needs repair. The crud would probably get knocked loose anyway. And shouldn't have formed in the first place if you've stayed on top of oil changes.
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May 1, 2015 23:41
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Godholio posted:Found your problem. Ok so I ended up grabbing one and I connected the positive connector to the positive terminal and the negative connector to the negative terminal. Initially it was blinking blue then when I came back out a couple hours later, it changed to the red fault indicator light which basically means bad connection, battery not able to accept charge or reverse polarity hook-up. I assume the issue more then likely is it cannot accept a charge, the battery is probably almost 8 years old anyways but I just wanted to verify what the reverse poliarity hook up means? Does that mean I might of connected it wrong? (ie. negative to positive and positive to negative?)
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May 2, 2015 01:55
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If it was charging at first and only went red later you didn't hook it up backwards.
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May 2, 2015 02:00
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Arriviste posted:Because OILCHAT I have to ask: I think it has more to do with older engines tending to have flat lifters or other parts that require higher zddp levels than newer oil blends provide. Even the supposed high-mileage oils aren't as high as what was used in the past, as zinc degrades catalytic converters. If you want the engine to last a long time, it wouldn't hurt to keep using whatever oil you were using and just add a zddp supplement. That is, if it has flat lifters.
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May 2, 2015 04:34
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I doubt his engine meets that description. For people who DO need old-school levels of zinc (ie, flat-tappet muscle cars) just buy diesel oil. Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella are good choices.
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May 2, 2015 05:11
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I'm trying to identify a noise. At higher speeds, when the wheel is turned to either side the car makes a regular, repeating noise. It sounds as if one or both front tires is/are making it once per rotation, or maybe every few rotations. Car is a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero GLS coupe (FWD v6)
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May 2, 2015 05:26
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Rock in the tread? I had a loving paperclip-like wire get stuck in my tire once, and it curved enough that it would actually lightly scratch the lip of the fender every revolution. The sound drove me nuts to the point that I pulled over and found it.
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May 2, 2015 05:28
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