|
I'll give it a good looking over when it's light out. It started happening during the end of my school term and I had no time to deal with it so I kind of just chalked it up to it being an old car. But now I have time and also I don't want to die. I forgot to mention that there's no vibrations whatsoever.
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 05:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 16:47 |
|
|
EightBit posted:I think it has more to do with older engines tending to have flat lifters or other parts that require higher zddp levels than newer oil blends provide. Even the supposed high-mileage oils aren't as high as what was used in the past, as zinc degrades catalytic converters. If you want the engine to last a long time, it wouldn't hurt to keep using whatever oil you were using and just add a zddp supplement. That is, if it has flat lifters. I don't know the differences among lifter shapes and sizes yet, but it's interesting that you bring them up. From what I've read, these trucks tend to have engine noise from lifters and/or broken manifold bolts. I do have a distinctive ping that, to me, seems worse before running awhile. My commute is typically only about six miles and, due to hardship license restrictions, I can't really take it for a good hard run on my own yet. The ping/knock does change with the RPMs. Landlord heard the engine noise and talked of maybe adjusting the lifters for me, but I don't think mine work in the way he was thinking. (I'm still learning.) If a lifter is sticking, then maybe an oil additive would help? Any reccs? I've always seen Lucas around when I buy Sea Foam -- or do I need to look at something else? This thread on Nissan Forums gives me a few clues about what I'm up against in diagnosing and curing the noises: link e: phone app postin' and making dumb bbcode Arriviste fucked around with this message at 06:12 on May 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 06:09
|
|
|
If your engine has hydraulic lifters, it probably doesn't have any adjustment. If you have a bit of a tap, you should try to use a mechanic's stethoscope (a broom handle works) to locate the sound. Lots of things can cause taps, you gotta know what part of the engine is making noise.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 16:34
|
|
|
If you have hydraulic lifters one of them could be leaking or you could have low oil pressure. Make sure its topped up on oil, once it warms up it may stop tapping if its not as severe.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 18:11
|
|
|
Greetings ya'll. I'm changing the timing belt on my 05 Civic and I've been stuck on the crank pulley bolt all day now. We've hit it with liquid wrench, we've torched it, I've broken a socket wrench cranking on it with a breaking bar, I've used an impact wrench long enough to wallow out a socket, I've used a jack to crank on a bigass wrench, and the bastard will not budge. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 20:45
|
|
|
Breaker bar with an impact socket and a big piece of pipe, or you could do the same minus the pipe and secure the breaker against something solid, then turn the engine over briefly and let the starter do the work for you.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 20:50
|
|
|
I dunno when they changed over, but older Hondas the engine spins backwards (counterclockwise at the pulley end), so that would actually tighten the bolt more. Is the engine held in place and the bolt just won't budge, or is the engine spinning when you try and loosen it? They do make a tool that slots into the pulley to hold it still if that's the case.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 20:56
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Breaker bar with an impact socket and a big piece of pipe, That is my next step, I feel like I've spent all drat day borrowing my wife's car to go back to the store for 'one more tool!' Fucknag posted:They do make a tool that slots into the pulley to hold it still if that's the case. The pulley and engine are not moving, I'm using one of those tools and another wrench to lock it in place against the a arm.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 20:59
|
|
|
Then yeah, you're gonna need the longest breaker par you can get, and maybe some steel pipe over the end to lengthen it. Might want to see if there's a 3/4" drive bar and socket they'd let you borrow (or buy, whatever), I've broken a few 1/2" drives busting things like that loose.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2015 21:05
|
|
|
I got it! The final effective method was a little bit of the jack method, then a little bit of chemical action, come back and repeat thirty minutes later. I think the real clincher was when I started using a screwdriver as a shim between the head of the socket and that bit of frame running horizontally right above it. That kept the first three sweeps of the jack lift from being wasted 'lifting' the whole wrench so to speak and getting the torque out of plane. With the driver in there, it was clean rotation from the get go so our work was more efficient.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 00:32
|
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:I got it! So, do all these guides have you draining the coolant because it's just the thing to do at this point, or because you're going to wind up soaking wet when you change the water pump if you don't do it?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 01:53
|
|
|
I recently bought a used car that's in good mechanical shape, but the paint's a little rough. There's a few bare metal patches on the hood and roof, and a little rust, but nothing too serious. Is there anything I can do to take care of it myself? How much can I expect to spend on a professional job, and how do I avoid getting screwed? I've got zero experience with paint and have no idea what to look for.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 02:01
|
|
|
It'd probably need a full repaint. $3-5k.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 02:13
|
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:So, do all these guides have you draining the coolant because it's just the thing to do at this point, or because you're going to wind up soaking wet when you change the water pump if you don't do it? Because it's all going to come gushing out when you remove the water pump, and the coolant is due to be changed at the same time. Even draining it will leave you losing a little coolant from the pump; it'll just be a trickle instead of a river. Make sure no coolant comes in contact with any belts. I know they're all off at this point anyway, just make sure they're far away from any rivers that may appear when you remove the water pump. Fucknag posted:I dunno when they changed over, but older Hondas the engine spins backwards (counterclockwise at the pulley end), so that would actually tighten the bolt more. 05 Civic would still be backwards; 06 was the changeover. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:58 on May 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 03:54
|
|
|
NerdyMcNerdNerd posted:I recently bought a used car that's in good mechanical shape, but the paint's a little rough. There's a few bare metal patches on the hood and roof, and a little rust, but nothing too serious. Is there anything I can do to take care of it myself? How much can I expect to spend on a professional job, and how do I avoid getting screwed? I've got zero experience with paint and have no idea what to look for. 2) If the car is worth it, expect to spend a four-figure sum on a full respray. If not, a cheapo spraycan job to cover anything that's lacking in paint will stop it getting any worse.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 13:00
|
|
|
OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 15:47
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice. If you like overspray and poo poo paint, sure.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 16:04
|
|
|
My husband and I are about to move to California (Santa Rosa) from Alabama in about three weeks. We have two cars: 2010 Kia Soul w/ 60,000ish miles, paid off, bought new. 2007 Suzuki Forenza w/100,000ish miles, paid off, bought used @ 44,000 The Kia has never had any issues, wrecks, whatever. The Suzuki has been in one wreck, has had some issues, and has a non-working catalytic converter. I've looked up some of the the requirements for registering a car in California, but to be honest, I'm pretty confused by all of it. From the looks of it, the Suzuki doesn't stand a chance of passing requirements for registration, and isn't worth getting it shipped/fixed to pass. The Kia SHOULD be, but we're not totally sure. Any advice you guys could give?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 17:00
|
|
|
Gnossiennes posted:My husband and I are about to move to California (Santa Rosa) from Alabama in about three weeks.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 17:14
|
|
|
Fucknag posted:If it was charging at first and only went red later you didn't hook it up backwards. Ok so I reconnected the battery to the wall outlet and it stopped going to the fault LED. The green light never went solid but after roughly 30 hours of charging I stuck it back into the car and it turns on again. Everything seems to work with the exception of the passenger automatic windows from the drivers side. It does work if I use the controls from the drivers side though, I assume I should look at the fuses?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 18:17
|
|
|
ilkhan posted:Turn around at the border. But don't come to Colorado, we're full.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 18:21
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice. gently caress these places and everyone who keeps them in business. You get what you pay for, if you're lucky. If you're not lucky, you end up with paint on your headlights, undercarriage, mufflers, tires, windows, interior, convertible top, jamming up the door latch mechanism, and wrecking your weatherstripping's ability to actually create a seal.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 19:01
|
|
|
I'm starting a job there in a few weeks, so unfortunately, turning around at the border ain't an option!
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 19:02
|
|
|
lol internet. posted:Ok so I reconnected the battery to the wall outlet and it stopped going to the fault LED. Well. does it start the car? That's job 1. For the windows, they're all typically on one fuse, so if any of them work it's not that. If that window works with the passenger door switch, it's probably the switch on the driver's side; if neither of them work, I'd suspect the window motor.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 19:27
|
|
|
So I've been working on this Mazda Protege5 that I got off of a guy at work for $400 with a blown head gasket. Figured I could flip it for a profit over the weekend. Oil in the coolant, head warped, valves eroded, all standard stuff. Had the head machined, new valves, seals, gaskets, radiator, timing covers because I broke them, went to start it last night and it won't. I lapped the valves in, good contact with seats in a full unbroken circle. When I put the springs on, I noticed three exhaust valves weren't a perfect fit. I was drinking and it was early morning after twelve hours of work and I made the poor decision to run with those old seats figuring it would still run with two cylinders making low compression. Hindsight is 20/20 right? Now I'm pretty sure I timed it wrong. Starter fluid in the intake, blew off the intake cover. Timed it for #4 tdc thinking it was #1, I think. It's got fuel and spark. Compression is questionable. I'm correct in thinking that intake valves 90° from opening and exhaust valves 270° from opening is tdc, right? If so, I need to re time it for #1 cylinder which is the starboard most cylinder, right? Haynes is no help in figuring this out. Also Haynes says that you should time it 6 to 18 degrees advanced. There is no distributor, they don't mean mechanically, right? Before I get hell for being lazy: I know that I should take the head back off and get new seats to go with the new valves but first I wanna see how it runs with poo poo compression. Besides, it will be a week before another gasket kit gets here.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 20:30
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice. Fwiw guys here on the forums are doing roll on jobs. Rhyno's civic turned out pretty good and Phaum Newman (phone posting hope I got it right) is doing his little sports car. 90% of paint is prep and wet sanding. Paint has some to do with it, but you can see guys here are getting good results with rustoleom paint.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 20:43
|
|
|
Yeah, accessory end is cylinder 1. Haynes probably wrote their manual to cover the entire generation; I believe the 2.0 did have a distributor at one point, so they include instructions for it. TDC on the compression stroke should be 180 degrees crank rotation (90 degrees cam) before the exhaust valves open, and 360 (180 cam) before intakes open. You can remove the spark plug to feel for air coming out (so you know it's on compression), then run a length of wire or similar down through it to rest on the piston so you can see when it's at its highest point. That said... if you ran it with the belt timed wrong, I'd pull the head off right now to make sure you didn't smack valves on pistons; the 2.0 is an interference engine.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 20:48
|
|
|
Godholio posted:If you're not lucky, you end up with paint on your headlights, undercarriage, mufflers, tires, windows, interior, convertible top, jamming up the door latch mechanism, and wrecking your weatherstripping's ability to actually create a seal. Who paints a car without masking or removing those items? Every time I've had my father in law paint something for me I spent waaaay more time prepping and masking/removing poo poo than it actually took to shoot the paint. I thought the idea with Maaco and similar establishments was you do your own prep work and rely on them only for the actual act of painting.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 21:17
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Who paints a car without masking or removing those items? Every time I've had my father in law paint something for me I spent waaaay more time prepping and masking/removing poo poo than it actually took to shoot the paint. It was a previous owner. The only thing on my list that I didn't have was painted headlights, but I've seen that. I can understand a little bit of overspray on some trim or the tire, but there was loving paint on the inside edge of the windshield. That's unacceptable. Likewise, the body-colored weatherstripping I just don't have the time or money to replace. All of it. Doors, hood, everything. Prep work only gets you so far, then it's up to the body shop to actually give a gently caress, and THAT'S where MAACO and the like fall down. They're Jiffy Lube for paint.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 21:26
|
|
|
Gnossiennes posted:My husband and I are about to move to California (Santa Rosa) from Alabama in about three weeks. If the Suzuki just needs a new cat, pick up a Walker 16576 cat from Rockauto before you move and have it installed locally (the Walker is the only 50 state legal cat sold on Rockauto, though you still can't buy it in California). You can be truthful and say it was replaced in Alabama (just say it's been on there awhile, and make sure you drive it as much as you can before the move so it doesn't look brand new). They'll still smog it. (also what is it with Forenzas and cats? I've known 2 people who've needed new ones before 100k). You're probably right in that the Forenza isn't worth shipping, but it's at least a vehicle you know, and you know what to expect from it. Form REG 31 is for someone else to fill out (needs to be filled out by a "authorized DMV employee, law enforcement officer, or licensed vehicle verifier (no charge for vehicle verification at DMV offices)"), while Form REG 343 is for you to fill out (and looks like a pretty standard title application). You only need REG 166 if a lienholder is still listed on the titles. The only other thing you need is a smog certificate. Honestly, looks a lot like bringing a vehicle into any other state, I had to fill out the same stuff when I bought a car from Georgia, and get it smogged/verified before I could register it (except when they did the safety/smog, they also verified the VIN, but I'm in TX, not CA)
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Well. does it start the car? That's job 1. Before you check the motors or fuses, hit the window lock button. Then try rolling them down.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:If the Suzuki just needs a new cat, pick up a Walker 16576 cat from Rockauto before you move and have it installed locally (the Walker is the only 50 state legal cat sold on Rockauto, though you still can't buy it in California). You can be truthful and say it was replaced in Alabama (just say it's been on there awhile, and make sure you drive it as much as you can before the move so it doesn't look brand new). They'll still smog it. (also what is it with Forenzas and cats? I've known 2 people who've needed new ones before 100k). You're probably right in that the Forenza isn't worth shipping, but it's at least a vehicle you know, and you know what to expect from it. They'll check the VIN when you register the car, but yeah it can't be smogged if the check engine light is on or not all of the readiness monitors are set. Otherwise you should be golden. Smog is done at a test station, while the paperwork is done at the DMV. Make an online appointment for the DMV and skip the line 
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 22:10
|
|
|
Godholio posted:It was a previous owner. The only thing on my list that I didn't have was painted headlights, but I've seen that. I can understand a little bit of overspray on some trim or the tire, but there was loving paint on the inside edge of the windshield. That's unacceptable. Likewise, the body-colored weatherstripping I just don't have the time or money to replace. All of it. Doors, hood, everything. Prep work only gets you so far, then it's up to the body shop to actually give a gently caress, and THAT'S where MAACO and the like fall down. They're Jiffy Lube for paint. v0v I always just assume anything that isn't either covered or removed from the vehicle is going to get paint on it. I would never have anyone attempt to paint something with anything I didn't want paint on exposed regardless of their skill level.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 22:20
|
|
|
Geoj posted:v0v I always just assume anything that isn't either covered or removed from the vehicle is going to get paint on it. I would never have anyone attempt to paint something with anything I didn't want paint on exposed regardless of their skill level. Yeah but it's a nightmare to R&I all that stuff. Half of it is going to break, warp, or otherwise be unusable again. In those cases they should be roping it off to avoid overspray but that doesn't happen very well either.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2015 22:24
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:1) There is always more rust. Find it. Fix it. Thanks. Before I bought the car, I got down on my hands and knees and crawled underneath it. Everything looked fine. It's where the paint is starting to peel off that's the problem, and there's only one rust patch of significant size. What's the best way to tackle it? I usually go after rust with steel wool and oil, but I've never worked on a car body before. The car's not worth 4 figures. It's old, but it's in good shape. I'm just using it as an around-town kind of car, but I'd like to maintain it. Can I assume that everyone in Maaco's price range will do a mediocre job? Is there a type of spraycan you might recommend to prevent further damage until I can get someone to paint it?
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2015 00:35
|
|
|
Gnossiennes posted:I'm starting a job there in a few weeks, so unfortunately, turning around at the border ain't an option! No fun cars. Basically no fun period. And Whatever you expect shouldn't have gov fees, it does. Whatever you expect those gov fees to be, triple it.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2015 04:30
|
|
|
Ok, this is the random one: What is the width across the widest point of the pan on a TH400 transmission, with/without the vacuum unit attached? And is it "centred" compared to the driveline, or offset to one side?ilkhan posted:Basically no fun period. The funny thing is, I don't even doubt that it's that far from the truth.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2015 10:41
|
|
|
The only people who complain about California are people who live there (and Republicans, and truckers). It's an absolutely beautiful state and I can understand why anyone would want to live there. edit: Versus loving Alabama, California is a shining utopia.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2015 13:55
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:If the Suzuki just needs a new cat, pick up a Walker 16576 cat from Rockauto before you move and have it installed locally (the Walker is the only 50 state legal cat sold on Rockauto, though you still can't buy it in California). You can be truthful and say it was replaced in Alabama (just say it's been on there awhile, and make sure you drive it as much as you can before the move so it doesn't look brand new). They'll still smog it. (also what is it with Forenzas and cats? I've known 2 people who've needed new ones before 100k). You're probably right in that the Forenza isn't worth shipping, but it's at least a vehicle you know, and you know what to expect from it. This is great information, thanks! We've never registered a vehicle anywhere but Alabama, so it's still kinda confusing, but it looks like it'll be ok. I think we're pretty well decided on not keeping the Suzuki -- I really don't think it's worth getting a new cat and shipping it (and there may be more wrong with it). So, now we just need to figure out how we're going to replace it. I'm guessing buying a car IN California is easier than bringing one from out of state, right? And yeah, we're pretty aware of the taxes and fees, but I'm sure we'll still be stunned by the ones we just don't think of! I still think we'll enjoy it more than Alabama, albeit not on the cars/taxes front (despite being Alabamian, we don't really care about guns)!
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2015 13:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 16:47 |
|
|
Gnossiennes posted:This is great information, thanks! We've never registered a vehicle anywhere but Alabama, so it's still kinda confusing, but it looks like it'll be ok. Yes, buying a car there will be easier because then it's the seller's responsibility to get a smog certificate, so you don't have to worry about that.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2015 16:19
|
|