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I'm tempted to take a long weekend and do my own timing belt/water pump on my 2000 3.4L V6 4Runner. I'm not terribly mechanically inclined but my dad has a garage, tools and tons of experience where I can make my mistakes. It's a bigger project than just about any I've done before, and it would save me about 4-500$. Talk me out of it.......
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May 5, 2015 18:55
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I just did a job that I didn't think I would be able to do. Popped out an old mid pipe and installed a new one, and then I did my spark plugs. Shop wanted $200 for the R&R, and $150 for the spark plugs so I saved a good $350. I have no idea whats involved in a timing belt, however.
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May 5, 2015 18:59
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TKIY posted:Oh, and a loaner to use until it arrives. Most likely the loaner they just tried to sell you. Good on you for standing your ground and getting what you want.
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May 5, 2015 19:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Yeah I think I will. I have another dealer quoting on a black on black on off their showfloor but I don't think he'll be able to touch this. Motronic posted:Most likely the loaner they just tried to sell you. Thx  
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May 5, 2015 19:07
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I'd do that deal.
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Motronic posted:Most likely the loaner they just tried to sell you.  quote:Good on you for standing your ground and getting what you want.
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May 5, 2015 19:39
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LeeMajors posted:I'm tempted to take a long weekend and do my own timing belt/water pump on my 2000 3.4L V6 4Runner. First thing is, how mechanically inclined is "not terribly"? The timing belt is the most difficult maintenance item to do (at least in any sensible car) so you should have a little bit of experience changing the coolant, changing accessory belts, and such. Second is, how prepared are you? You should obviously have instructions, multiple sources are best. Do you have a decent sized tool collection? You don't want to get 3/4s of the way through disassembly to find out you really need a 1/2" breaker bar or spend 2 hours trying to get one bolt that would take 1 minute with a swivel socket. Third, how easily can you unfuck yourself? You're giving yourself time, which is good. Can you make a parts store run on a Sunday? If things take too long, can you still get to work on Monday? Do you live in the rust belt and are prepared to deal with sheared bolts? Basically, if you give yourself the best chance for success, you're gonna be more successful. Also, it'll be less stressful and you'll be happy to think of yourself as a budding shade-tree mechanic.
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May 5, 2015 19:41
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Leperflesh posted:Oh drat, that reminds me, I meant to respond to this: Yes the 323 Haynes. Also, thank you.
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May 5, 2015 19:55
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LeeMajors posted:I'm tempted to take a long weekend and do my own timing belt/water pump on my 2000 3.4L V6 4Runner. Besides being a big job, you need to have or make at least two special tools. Once to retract the hydraulic tensioner and one to hold the harmonic balancer in place.
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May 5, 2015 19:57
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Car is ordered, should be here by the end of the month. Now you can all mock me for spending fifty thousand soviet canuckbuxx on a Hyundai.
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May 5, 2015 20:15
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LeeMajors posted:I'm tempted to take a long weekend and do my own timing belt/water pump on my 2000 3.4L V6 4Runner. I wouldn't do this without someone's help that has experience with them. I'd happily pay $500 for a shop to assume the liability. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 21:31 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 21:23
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Neptr posted:First thing is, how mechanically inclined is "not terribly"? The timing belt is the most difficult maintenance item to do (at least in any sensible car) so you should have a little bit of experience changing the coolant, changing accessory belts, and such. I've done all oil changes and tire rotations myself for like 15 years. Brakes, transmission drain/fills, I added a tranny cooler to the truck without issue. I've drained/added coolant. Did a water pump/serpentine with my dad's help on a 94 Bonneville, but that seems like an easier job. The truck is southern with little to no rust (just a cockhair on the hitch receiver). But this: Motronic posted:Besides being a big job, you need to have or make at least two special tools. Once to retract the hydraulic tensioner and one to hold the harmonic balancer in place. is making me lean toward this: VelociBacon posted:I wouldn't do this without someone's help that has experience with them. I'd happily pay $500 for a shop to assume the liability. I know it's a big job and feels a little out of my skill level...but the $770 quote spooked the piss out of me. I also really want to use it as a decent learning experience, but it's my DD..... LeeMajors fucked around with this message at 22:58 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 22:53
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LeeMajors posted:I also really want to use it as a decent learning experience, but it's my DD..... It really would be, but is doesn't sound like you're quite there yet. Why don't you start on bypassing the in-radiator transmission cooler that is sure to destroy your trans at some point in the not too distant future? Keyword: raspberry milkshake
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May 6, 2015 00:58
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Motronic posted:It really would be, but is doesn't sound like you're quite there yet. And make sure to plug the old holes in the rad so it doesn't eat a head gasket.
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May 6, 2015 01:04
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BrokenKnucklez posted:And make sure to plug the old holes in the rad so it doesn't eat a head gasket. I've always looped them because I'm lazy, but if you can find plugs.....good on you.
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May 6, 2015 01:12
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Motronic posted:I've always looped them because I'm lazy, but if you can find plugs.....good on you. That does work. Dumb question - If I need to adapt a 21 spine adapter to say a 30 spline with different input shaft sizing on both sizes.... can a machine shop work something up like that? This is purely hypothetical.
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May 6, 2015 01:14
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Motronic posted:It really would be, but is doesn't sound like you're quite there yet. Yeah thats done already. Might do tie rod ends and ball joints here soon. I feel more comfortable with those.
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May 6, 2015 01:21
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LeeMajors posted:Yeah thats done already. Might do tie rod ends and ball joints here soon. I feel more comfortable with those. Good. Honestly it's a big job. It's achievable but if you do it wrong you're really screwed. Build up to that to the point where you don't need to be asking if you can pull it off or not. At that point then you probably can because you know enough to research the procedure and have a good idea if this is something you are comfortable with or not.
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May 6, 2015 01:29
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Enourmo posted:Seriously? drat. Every resource I ever saw said otherwise. Just to be absolutely clear: the 2.0 FS-DE available in the North America Mazda Protege5, sold from 2001 through 2003, is a non-interference engine. Mazda used a bunch of other variants of their FS engine and I don't know about any of those other ones. It's entirely possible that the turbocharged 170hp version of this engine (the FS-DET) sold in Mazdaspeed Proteges of the same era could be an interference engine, and that is possibly (speculating) the reason why a bunch of car people online insist the engine is interference when discussing the Protege5. The Protege5 was also available Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:43 on May 6, 2015 |
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May 6, 2015 01:33
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Leperflesh posted:It's entirely possible that the turbocharged 170hp version of this engine (the FS-DET) sold in Mazdaspeed Proteges of the same era could be an interference engine, and that is possibly (speculating) the reason why a bunch of car people online insist the engine is interference when discussing the Protege5. Oh I can assure you, the DET is internally identical in every way to the DE (aside from a windage tray), it's one of the MSP's many... charms.  (Seriously, the crank is forged on all DEs, but the turbo has the same cast rods and pistons as the rest, and the same static compression, so if the rest are non-interference that one is too.)
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May 6, 2015 01:50
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BrokenKnucklez posted:That does work. If you've got the money, a machine shop will do whatever you want.
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May 6, 2015 02:22
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Greetings AI wizards. I have a 2006 Accord (I4, manual) that has about 150,000 miles. The clutch is beginning to slip a bit, so I am intending to buy an engine hoist and take a Friday off of work to do a clutch/pressure plate swap over a long weekend. Assuming my time is worth nothing, the cost of the hoist is still well less than taking it in, and it will help to do a timing belt chain on my wife's Accord in the near future as well. I have the service manual for the car, moderate experience, and an alternate vehicle just in case. The goal is to have this car last another 50-100k, so I'm hoping to do a large maintenance event and then proceed with normal maintenance for that period. As long as I am taking everything apart to the point of swapping the clutch, what other potential issues or parts should I consider addressing or replacing? With the large price difference between doing the clutch at home vs. taking it in to a garage, it seems worthwhile to spend extra on other potential problems as long as I have that much access to the engine and surrounding areas.
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May 6, 2015 03:41
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Make sure that you change everything that requires separating the engine and transmission. Most clutch kits come with the necessary parts: clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bearing. Might be a good time to do the rear main seal.
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May 6, 2015 04:59
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Definitely rear main seal. I'm not sure on your year Accord, but if the clutch slave cylinder lives inside of the bellhousing, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it with a new OEM one. Beyond that, clutch job on that really shouldn't be too terrible (as far as FWD goes).
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May 6, 2015 06:51
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Excellent, thanks! About two months after helping my buddy swap out the clutch in an older Accord he was lamenting that we didn't do the rear main seal at that time as well, so that was part of the reason I decided to ask the experts. I'll look into the slave cylinder, do the rear main seal for sure, and make sure that all the components are accounted for when I get the clutch replacement kit. Thanks!
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May 6, 2015 17:21
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You might want to locate a slide hammer ahead of time, as it is the best way to pull pilot bearings. Don't be like me, and make sure that you get the alignment tool all the way into the pilot bearing!
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May 6, 2015 20:12
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My 07 Civic Si is turning off the AC compressor at idle. Doesnt "click" back on at all until car is moving at a decent speed for a few minutes. My first thought was overheating, but the water temp gauge is rock solid at about 40% no matter what. Popped the hood after a 30 minute drive that involved me sitting in traffic a lot, no crazy heat or signs of overheating. Coolant does seem a tad low, so I will top it off but I don't think that is the issue. Not sure where to look. Internet says it is an issue at times with these cars, and sometimes the dealerships can re-map the engine computer to fix it. But i wanted to rule out bad switches or some other bad electrical part. I am not super fluent with AC stuff, but I have a multimeter to test stuff. I am wondering if perhaps the aux fans are turning off at idle for some reason...
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May 6, 2015 21:09
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PaintVagrant posted:My 07 Civic Si is turning off the AC compressor at idle. AC has nothing to do with coolant. Before you can say for sure it's an electrical issue, you need to know there's enough refrigerant in the system. Go read the OP of motronic's car AC thread, then rent a set of gauges from autozone and get static and running pressures (you may have to Rev the engine to engage the compressor, so maybe have a second person to help with that). The fans all work, right? And the compressor does engage. Those are the only things the computer controls. If it's not turning them on when it should, either the computer is bad (EXTREMELY unlikely, don't even consider this without further diagnosis to rule out other things), a pressure sensor isn't doing what it should (would probably disable the system entirely), or there's a refrigerant issue. OR... the compressor could be starting to size up, and the computer shuts it off to prevent excessive load at idle. If you can reach it, try and spin the compressor by hand (this may or may not be possible depending on pulley/clutch design). Check the drive belt(s) too, make sure there's no cracking or fluids present.
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May 6, 2015 22:00
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Good advice. I'll look at Ron Swansons thread asap. The coolant remark was just me double checking that the engine wasn't running hot, I've had several cars in the past that had bad t-stats or low coolant or whatever and the engine computer turned off the AC compressor as the water temp climbed. . But the car is definitely not overheating so your advice applies. Fans work, compressor definitely works. It blew prett cold air all the way home today, but I didn't sit in traffic very much. The few times I did, the compressor stayed on. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 00:00
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My dad has an 1968 chevelle sport coup. Whats the best way to tell what specific version or engine he has?
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May 7, 2015 01:22
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Philosopher King posted:My dad has an 1968 chevelle sport coup. Whats the best way to tell what specific version or engine he has? Take a picture under the hood and google around to see pictures of them online with descriptions.
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May 7, 2015 01:23
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Philosopher King posted:My dad has an 1968 chevelle sport coup. Whats the best way to tell what specific version or engine he has? Also this. Keep in mind there's an EXCELLENT chance it's not the original engine.
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May 7, 2015 02:05
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Godholio posted:Also this. Keep in mind there's an EXCELLENT chance it's not the original engine. Would that matter for any reason? I think he said it was the original engine. Thank you for this btw. He is finally taking the first steps toward getting rid of this heirloom but we figured we would start at finding out exactly what it was. Philosopher King fucked around with this message at 03:51 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 03:47
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If it's not an original engine it's just worth a lot less. It would be expected to run just as well, it's just a collector thing.
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May 7, 2015 04:11
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VelociBacon posted:If it's not an original engine it's just worth a lot less. It would be expected to run just as well, it's just a collector thing. Depends on what the original engine was, to be fair. If it was some rare / desirable RPO code like an LS5 or LS6 big block, or LT1 smallblock (did those ever end up in A-bodies?) then yeah, you'd want originality for maximum $. But if the original was just another 307 / 327 / 350 making under 300hp SAE gross, or an inline six, nobody is going to care that much if the engine has been swapped for something else. It looks like Chevelles of that era were not given the easy option of a printed and firmly affixed sticker with RPO codes on it like my C10, but if you're supremely lucky the build sheet might still be jammed in a seat / under some carpet / somewhere else hidden. It'd look like this: 
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May 7, 2015 04:22
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In Corvettes it was on top of the gas tank, and started in '67. Yeah the main thing about a non-original motor is the value. There are different levels of what people want...an original big motor is $$$$$$$. Since there are few legitimate examples of that (the joke in the Vette world is that there are more original 427ci/435hp cars on the road than ever rolled out of the factory), it's not the end of the world if you have a replacement motor. A replacement could come from just about anywhere...these engines were in loving everything for half a century. A "correct" motor is usually one that has a date stamp (date of manufacture for the engine) in the appropriate range for the vehicle (probably no more than a couple of months before the assembly of the car), and designed for the right application (Corvette, passenger, truck, etc). Or an engine might have a "CE" on the stamp pad where the VIN would have originally been. CE is an over-the-counter replacement, many of them were warranty replacements but not all. Or you might have a random engine from whatever was in the junkyard or whatever. The thing to remember is that the market's not amazing. Nobody's getting rich off selling this car unless it's an original LS6 or something equally rare. Chances are, it was purchased to be the family car, not a quarter mile legend. Expect a low-hp 327 or 350, whatever was used that year, mated to a powerglide, with a gear ratio somewhere around 2.73 or 3.36. Godholio fucked around with this message at 06:45 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 06:36
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I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 pickup. Last week it started doing this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKnj0rTL24M The noise is the same regardless of which setting the AC/vent/heat dial is on. The weather has been pleasant so I haven't run it on either of the higher blower settings, and often just turn everything down/off. Y'know, in case this is something that could make me die in a fiery inferno. The only other issue with it recently was a few weeks ago when the engine had a couple instances of losing power while driving. My shop did the following: new ignition control module, new distributor cap, new distributor rotor (?? mechanic's handwriting amirite), and they cleaned the fuel injectors. I figure this probably isn't related but I'm including it anyway because 
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May 7, 2015 15:44
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I found a RWD used Ford Ranger I am interested in buying, but I live in the frozen north and have never driven a RWD vehicle before. Terrible idea?
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May 7, 2015 16:28
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Manslaughter posted:I found a RWD used Ford Ranger I am interested in buying, but I live in the frozen north and have never driven a RWD vehicle before. Terrible idea? Nope. Get good winter tires, keep a hundred pounds or so of sand in the bed (in bags) during the winter, and go slow until you get the hang of it.
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May 7, 2015 16:39
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 pickup. Last week it started doing this: Either the blower motor, or the fan blade attached to it, is failing. Hopefully it's not Volvo 240 levels of hell to get to it!
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May 7, 2015 17:55
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1994 Chevy C1500 Why are my tires wearing out so fast? I got a set of Kumho KR21s two years ago and they're almost worn to the wear bars after 30,000 miles. The tires came with an 85,000 mile warranty, so I'm not even going to make it half way through the supposed life expectancy. I only rotated them once in that period. I keep them properly inflated. They seem to have pretty even wear patterns. All four tires have the same wear. Are Kumhos just lovely tires or is it something with my truck?
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May 7, 2015 19:33
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