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taco_fox posted:1994 Chevy C1500 taco_fox posted:I only rotated them once in that period. This might have something to do with it. That, or you are overloading them.
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May 7, 2015 20:02
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taco_fox posted:1994 Chevy C1500 What does the wear pattern look like? If you can post a picture, maybe we can tell if it's due to under/overinflation, bad alignment, or just normal even wear.
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May 7, 2015 20:13
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EightBit posted:This might have something to do with it. Eh, 15,000 mile rotations on tires with an expected life of nearly 90,000 miles isn't that egregious. Not ideal but I'd guess something else is going on.
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May 7, 2015 20:16
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Seeing as it's a tire that seems to be more often used on smaller cars (going off of the sizes and reviews on Tirerack), I'd wager it's just not going to live anywhere near 85k miles under a fullsize truck.
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May 7, 2015 20:21
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Here's a pic of the right front. Washed out cell phone pic Also, I don't do any heavy hauling or towing 
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May 7, 2015 20:54
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Treadwear looks pretty even from that picture. I'm going to second IOC's suggestion that a tire designed for cars and maybe small SUVs just isn't going to last as long as the manufacturer suggests on a full size truck.
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May 7, 2015 20:57
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What's the weight rating for the tires? That could help you figure out if you're overloading them.
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May 7, 2015 21:01
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I'm looking at what Discount Tire recommends for my truck and the Kumhos have the same load rating as the Michelins and Goodyears that cost a shitload more edit: rating XL 2,183 lbs. taco_fox fucked around with this message at 21:33 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 21:28
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Load ratings mean it won't blow up or be dangerous with that weight, but it doesn't mean it was built to last 85000 miles working that hard. From Kumho's own site for the KR21: A lot of it can be driving style, too. My mom had a '97 C1500 Suburban (so your truck, but even heavier) and usually ran the Michelin LTX on it. That thing got caned everywhere it went and would shred the tires in about 20k miles. Personally I don't sweat tire life in terms of mileage too much. Unless you're logging 30k+ miles per year, a tire that actually makes it to 85,000 miles is going to be awfully old and rock loving hard by then, and you would probably want to replace them even without hitting the wear bars.
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May 7, 2015 21:41
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Road quality and operating temperature are also factors. Do you live in the desert/place where they cheap out on road maintenance?
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May 7, 2015 21:46
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Nope, the roads are pretty good here. I don't drive hard, either. She has 257,000 miles, so I treat her nice. It seems the KR21 comes in like 50 or 60 different sizes, so sorry that wasn't a good description. Specifically, these are P235/75R15 108T XL. So I take it I just got a set of bad tires? I'm not too worried about replacing them since Discount Tire is usually good at honoring warranties in my experience.
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May 7, 2015 21:59
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taco_fox posted:Nope, the roads are pretty good here. I don't drive hard, either. She has 257,000 miles, so I treat her nice. You got a set of fine tires. My mother put a set of 80,000mi Michelins on from a Discount Tire back in the late 80s and hasn't paid full price for a set of tires since. They keep hitting wear bars at 50-60k (not unusual in the desert) and Discout Tire pro-rates them and gets her a new set. The warranty has transferred vehicles, too, by some kind of Discount Tire Customer Loyalty magic that I'm not too sure of.
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May 7, 2015 22:13
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What babyeater said. Discount is fantastic with warranties. Today, my lovely 30k mile Ohtsus got a prorated warranty when one was done at 14k (the other was replaced under road hazard). 2 new tires, out the door, for $65 ($22 of that for road hazard certificates). I refuse to go anywhere else.
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May 8, 2015 02:18
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2014 Honda Accord Sedan Exec summary: * Progressively more frequent singular clunk noise when turning following an encounter with a parking lot curb. A month ago I tried to pull forward out of a parking space, only to find there was one of those curbs in the way. I went over it and the car dropped on it. gently caress. I had to reverse over the curb and I left, checking the alignment on my way out. Seemed fine. Since then the car has developed a clunk that's gotten worse as time went on. It only ever clunks once. At first it was once a trip, then a few times, now it's maybe 25% of turns, especially if there's an elevation change. Sometimes I can feel it in the floor and it's almost like someone tapped under the car with a mallet. Sometimes I can also feel it in the steering wheel, with very rarely it feeling like it's catching on something. It's intermittent though, I can't make it clunk all the time and shimmying the wheel around in motion or otherwise doesn't make the car do it. The clunk mainly likes to appear when turning right, though it will come up in left hand turns too and even when going straight, but only under very low speeds. The most reliable way I've found to reproduce it is to turn right up a driveway or at least reverse out to the right out of one. It will show up in the middle of travel even though I've finished moving the steering wheel. Turn wheel right, 4-3-2-1 *clunk* Driving performance and experience is otherwise normal.
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May 8, 2015 06:20
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Sounds possibly like a ball joint but if you landed the car on something it could possibly be damage to where the lower control arm mounts to the subframe. It's really hard to tell since it was an impact that started this.
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May 8, 2015 06:41
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VelociBacon posted:Sounds possibly like a ball joint but if you landed the car on something it could possibly be damage to where the lower control arm mounts to the subframe. It's really hard to tell since it was an impact that started this. I used my phone to take pictures in there and there didn't seem to be anything obviously wrong, though that was when this wound was fresher. I'm going to jack up the car and wiggle things around this weekend. My mudflap got scraped during the event (at least I think) so I'll pay extra attention to the area immediately behind the wheel too. As for the ball joint, I looked up some youtube videos for an example and it seems like it's more of a squeaky sound and you can reproduce it at will. Mine is more of a thud and is harder to reproduce. I'll listen out for squeakiness. skooma512 fucked around with this message at 07:09 on May 8, 2015 |
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May 8, 2015 07:04
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So a friend of mine picked up a 1997 Subaru Legacy wagon with (of course) a blown engine. He bought this engine to replace it, but unfortunately he never found out what car it came out of and the seller is no longer answering. It appears that EJ22 was never sold in his model Legacy and his mechanic is having trouble finding out what he needs wiring-wise to get it fully operational and running clean. What does he need in order to find out where the original engine came from? Will the engine's VIN be enough or does he need a Subaru whisperer to diagnose things? Or should I just advise him to put the thing back up on eBay and buy an engine that actually was meant for his car? It's going to need to run well enough to pass California emissions. I realize this is not even close to the amount of information needed to fix the problem, but he's terrible with computers and I'm just trying to find out where to start looking for help.
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May 8, 2015 07:43
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Well, once you figure out what it came out of, it might still not be legal. I'm sure you've already read into it, but the donor motor has to be from the same model year or newer, as well as from the same vehicle class. I assume wagons are "cars" for that purpose, but I've been wrong before. Plus, there's all the hassle with getting the swap refereed, but I'm not sure how complicated that is. I suppose if you can make it look externally stock, you can cross your fingers and hope that nobody notices that it's an EJ22 instead of an EJ25.
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May 8, 2015 10:01
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Anyone here have any experience with the Sunny/Pulsar GTIR (RNN14)? Looking at potentially upgrading my daily driver later this year.
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May 8, 2015 13:11
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Butt Wizard posted:Anyone here have any experience with the Sunny/Pulsar GTIR (RNN14)? Looking at potentially upgrading my daily driver later this year.
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May 8, 2015 15:38
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Just bought a '94 Lexus SC400, it had some issues with power - sluggish and non-responsive, when you rev it the tach drops to zero even though it sounds like it's hitting 2-3K. I thought it was the ignition coil at first - I unplugged the drivers-side coil and started it up, the car died immediately. Did the same to the passenger side one and it started up in the same sort of state as it did before. There's white smoke from the exhaust and the smell of unburnt fuel. Replaced that ignition coil, does the same thing. So I've got the car apart and decide to replaced the spark plugs and wires anyway as I've got the stuff and the PO never did it in 3 years of ownership. Get the old spark plug wires out and three of the eight cylinders have this dusty white buildup crap all over them. Is this indicative of anything that could be related to my issues? I'm going to finish up the spark plugs and see if it makes a difference. Maybe I should replace the caps and rotors while I'm at it?
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May 8, 2015 16:38
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Butt Wizard posted:Anyone here have any experience with the Sunny/Pulsar GTIR (RNN14)? Looking at potentially upgrading my daily driver later this year. I have, I like them a lot! But if you're going to compare to a gt-four you're in for some desperate disappointment. The SR20's rep for power and reliability speaks for itself, but the packaging is absolutely horrendous. Brakes are poo. Gearbox is.....not as bad as a GTX mazda but they still tend to blow up; gears themselves are interchangeable with a bunch of other nissan boxes though so if you feel brave and have a press you can switch ratios with all sorts of other cars (I once had a pulsar with primera gearing and a normal SR20DE at one point). On the plus side they have the umbrella holder in the door, an interior that (in my opinion) has aged really well and they look pretty cool if they haven't been rangi'd. Which they all have. Also N14's tend to rust around the a pillar and in the hindquarters and GTIR's are no different in that respect. They went through their price valley a few years ago so finding one that hasn't been molested is next to impossible; I know because I've looked (this was about a year ago).
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May 8, 2015 20:29
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Slavvy posted:I have, I like them a lot! But if you're going to compare to a gt-four you're in for some desperate disappointment. The SR20's rep for power and reliability speaks for itself, but the packaging is absolutely horrendous. Brakes are poo. Gearbox is.....not as bad as a GTX mazda but they still tend to blow up; gears themselves are interchangeable with a bunch of other nissan boxes though so if you feel brave and have a press you can switch ratios with all sorts of other cars (I once had a pulsar with primera gearing and a normal SR20DE at one point). Awesome, cheers for this. I'm looking to replace a 5 door Corolla with 300,000km - the GT4 isn't going anywhere yet. The GTIR is a candidate as it's smaller the my 5 door and a little bit more interesting than a Swift. I'm pretty easy on cars so provided the brakes will stop it at reasonably well from 60mph then it should be fine - I'm happy to throw more money at upgrading brakes if need be either way. I've heard the ratios for the RNN14 are a bit like the ST205 - far too long for how heavy the car is - was that generally your experience with them? It's mostly just going to be used for commuting and the odd road trip so I'm not looking for balls-out performance - that's what our Mini is for :P I've seen the odd one come up in Japan over the past few years so they do exist, but the grade 4 ones (which is the minimum I'd buy) are few and far between. Thankfully the Corolla will soldier on for a while yet so I can wait for the right one to come along.
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May 8, 2015 21:48
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The power delivery is like a caldina turbo - it spools up really late and every gear besides first feels just a touch too long, but I'm sure spending a grand or two on turbowizardry would fix that. The top mount sucks balls and I'm not aware of any good fix besides switching to a FMIC but I've been out of the loop with broom-pish cars for a couple of years now, so that might have changed. And as I said, you can dick around with gearing. A very long time ago I had a GTI (not R) with an SR20 swapped in which shat it's gearbox. I didn't want to replace the box because of the sick LSD yo, so I got a gearbox out of a P10 primera and swapped the ratios onto my shafts. Surprisingly, the early P10 has shorter gearing than a pulsar gti (and presumably a much longer final drive to make up for it) and I ended up with a car that did 4,500rpm at 100 and lit up the wheels in second gear. The GTIR and GTI both have dual cone synchros on the first two gears which I think makes them a little more resistant to destruction than most but as a DD it probably won't be an issue if you find one with reasonably low mileage and use quality gear oil. Fuel consumption is also...not good. If you get one out of japan it's worth dumping engine flush through it as the FWD SR20 has certain oil passages that clog very easily and hydraulic tappets that have a habit of collapsing if you don't service them religiously, combined with forked rocker arms that tend to get grooves worn in them. Worst case scenario, none of these things are difficult or particularly expensive to fix and silvia stuff is a direct swap. FWIW the guy next door to my work imported a grade 4 R32 GTR and it had a missing gear knob and a surprising number of leaks and dings, as well as a completely rooted cooling system.
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May 8, 2015 22:06
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Slavvy posted:FWIW the guy next door to my work imported a grade 4 R32 GTR and it had a missing gear knob and a surprising number of leaks and dings, as well as a completely rooted cooling system. Both the cars I've brought in have been 4Bs and the only changes from factory they've had have been a different head-unit and one had a couple of extra lighter plugs for a GPS, but I suspect we just got incredibly lucky. I think it depends on what you're buying too - if your country has a longer exemption window then enthusiasts from other countries get to raid stocks and you have to sort through what's left. I'd imagine most of the good Skylines in Japan have been snapped up already.
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May 8, 2015 22:35
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I have a dumb idea for a project. What kind of converter would I need to plug a car headlight into a 240v outlet? 240V AC to 12V DC like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aussie-240V-AC-to-12V-DC-Converter-Transformer-Adapter-Car-Appliance-240W-20A-/261381266971
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May 9, 2015 09:07
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I am a big hamfuck and I managed to strip one of the knuckle holes for a brake caliper bolt. Rear, 08 honda civic (obv discs). Bolt is about 2mm short of being tight, and now just spins. Other bolt is tight, but this allows the caliper bracket to move slightly, which makes a pretty damned loud clunk when you hit any sort of bump with that wheel. Looking to sell the car soon. Not sure if I should buy a helicoil or timecert kit or if I should just call a brake shop and see what they would charge me. Having never re-tapped a hole like this, should I just swallow my pride and go pay someone to handle this?
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May 9, 2015 17:24
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Don't the calipers attach to a (removable) caliper bracket on those? You know, the one you have to remove to get the rotor off? If so, just buy another bracket and bolt.
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May 9, 2015 17:30
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Motronic posted:Don't the calipers attach to a (removable) caliper bracket on those? You know, the one you have to remove to get the rotor off? Sorry mis-worded that slightly. The bolt (pin?) that screws through the bracket into the hub hole, which is stripped. The caliper is indeed mounted to the bracket, but the bracket itself can not be fully tightened to the hub now because the bolt is just spinning 2mm short of being tight.
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May 9, 2015 17:33
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In that case you need to pull the bracket off and use a thread repair kit. There really isn't any other (easier but still correct) option. They're brakes: they have to be right.
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May 9, 2015 17:39
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On second look, it is indeed the bracket that is stripped out. Its a 30 dollar replacement (just the core, have to use the pins/boots from the current one). I just ordered it on amazon. Don't want to sell a car with dodgy brakes, that seems like a good way to collect some bad karma 
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May 9, 2015 19:26
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open24hours posted:I have a dumb idea for a project. What kind of converter would I need to plug a car headlight into a 240v outlet? 240V AC to 12V DC like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aussie-240V-AC-to-12V-DC-Converter-Transformer-Adapter-Car-Appliance-240W-20A-/261381266971 20A/240W might be a bit excessive (most car headlights are fused at 10-15A and only draw 50-65W) but yes, that should work for your application.
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May 9, 2015 21:01
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Anyone got any good ideas on how to find a fuel leak other than getting under the car and looking for dripping or wet spots? There's nothing obvious, but I can definitely smell it and mpg is starting to suffer. It's a '96 4cyl Camry, any ideas?
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May 9, 2015 22:40
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How could there possibly be anything easier than looking? Find it, you don't want this to get worse. Gas will wreck a lot of things, the fumes will wreck you, and let's not talk about what fire does outside the engine.
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May 9, 2015 23:52
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leica posted:Anyone got any good ideas on how to find a fuel leak other than getting under the car and looking for dripping or wet spots? There's nothing obvious, but I can definitely smell it and mpg is starting to suffer. It's a '96 4cyl Camry, any ideas? It's probably on the top of the tank (fuel will pool in the indentation where the pump and sensor goes) if you smell it for a while. You'll get it there when you fill or when it's mostly full and sloshes around. I don't think there's going to be any easy way to check - you should pretty much run that thing down to E and drop the tank. If it's just after you fill see how much of the filler neck you can get too. And that's if it's in the back. Up front should be easier. Normal suspects are fuel hose to FPR and rail connections and around the injectors.
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May 10, 2015 00:02
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If he's actually losing noticeable mileage and can smell fuel I'd say this is going to be at least a medium and probably a large sized leak.
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May 10, 2015 00:18
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Kinda stumped here. 2000 323 touring. New front control arms, control arm bushings, dampers (all four), rear strut mounts, rear trailing arm bushings, and alignment. Car pulls left, steering wheel wants to turn left, when running a right hand corner fast it feels like the front tire is rolling over and wants to hop but left turns are fine. Under braking hard sometimes it will abruptly pull left hard but not all the time and all at once. Only untouched by me suspension parts left in the car at the front strut mounts, rear control arm bushings, and tie rod ends. Tie rod ends weren't shot, nor were the rear control arm bushings. Tires are approaching the wear bars. During the alignment the car required .3* camber on one side to lessen the pull. Strut towers aren't deformed. Is the pull in the tires or should I just toss the money at new tierod ends and strut mounts? BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 10, 2015 |
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May 10, 2015 01:36
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You should replace the tires first, as that's a safety concern independent of handling issues. Personally, I'd have replaced the strut mounts when you did the struts, the rubber makes them a wear item.
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May 10, 2015 01:43
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I plan on tossing Ground Control camber plates on the car soon so I was trying to push the strut mounts off a couple of months. Guess I'll order a set of tires on Monday.
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May 10, 2015 01:46
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Motronic posted:It's probably on the top of the tank (fuel will pool in the indentation where the pump and sensor goes) if you smell it for a while. You'll get it there when you fill or when it's mostly full and sloshes around. It's constant and not just after filling. Oh well, gonna have to dig deep I guess, I'll check the fuel pump first probably, I really don't wanna drop the tank.
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May 10, 2015 02:35
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