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leica posted:It's constant and not just after filling. Oh well, gonna have to dig deep I guess, I'll check the fuel pump first probably, I really don't wanna drop the tank. Can you tell if it's front or back? Like, especially right after driving (so you've blown the stank off of it). And also, are you parking in places where you would be able to see dripping or are you like me and parking on gravel where it has to be gallons before you can tell? My standard move is cardboard. See what comes down from where.
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May 10, 2015 02:44
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Super low-hanging fruit: check the evap line. Not becuase it's super likely you're losing a lot of fuel from it, but because it's a cheaper fix.
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May 10, 2015 03:20
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Leperflesh posted:Super low-hanging fruit: check the evap line. Not becuase it's super likely you're losing a lot of fuel from it, but because it's a cheaper fix. In my case, my Altima was giving a pretty strong constant smell anytime the engine was off, with a slight reduction in MPG - also a constant CEL for a large evap leak, along with a code for an evap solenoid. Wound up being several cracked lines around the gas tank (the charcoal canister on that car sat next to the tank, every line between it and the tank was cracked), along with a bad solenoid that was between them. Solenoid was $free at a junkyard. Not saying that's what it is, but get under there and start looking for vacuum lines that may be brittle and any solenoids you can reach without dropping the tank, and of course, pull codes.
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May 10, 2015 04:54
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Geoj posted:20A/240W might be a bit excessive (most car headlights are fused at 10-15A and only draw 50-65W) but yes, that should work for your application. Cool, thanks. 
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May 10, 2015 07:52
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I have a grinding noise in my front passenger side wheel when I take right turns, it started after my first autocross a few weeks ago. Thought it was the dust shield rubbing on the rotor - pulled it back and it got better and then went back to how it was. So yesterday I took the brakes apart and the rotor was actually running against the caliper bracket. The mechanic who installed the bearing at the end of February must have put the hub in crooked. Is this something he should fix free of charge? I haven't been impressed with his work and if I have to pay I would rather go somewhere else.
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May 10, 2015 13:00
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Neptr posted:I have a grinding noise in my front passenger side wheel when I take right turns, it started after my first autocross a few weeks ago. Thought it was the dust shield rubbing on the rotor - pulled it back and it got better and then went back to how it was. So yesterday I took the brakes apart and the rotor was actually running against the caliper bracket. The mechanic who installed the bearing at the end of February must have put the hub in crooked. Is this something he should fix free of charge? I haven't been impressed with his work and if I have to pay I would rather go somewhere else. If you've been able to take it apart, you can just fix it yourself. What's the problem, the rotor is damaged? A new one is probably like $30.
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May 10, 2015 17:08
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Godholio posted:If you've been able to take it apart, you can just fix it yourself. What's the problem, the rotor is damaged? A new one is probably like $30. I don't have a press to take the hub/bearing out of the knuckle, which is why I took the car to a mechanic. I also thought I was paying for the convienence of having someone else do it, but I was wrong.
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May 10, 2015 17:12
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Ah, so it's a blue car.
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May 10, 2015 17:13
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Kids (presumably) nicked the dustcaps off my tyres, are the locking ones worth it or shall I just get a shitload of black plastic ones?
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May 10, 2015 18:15
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DesperateDan posted:Kids (presumably) nicked the dustcaps off my tyres, are the locking ones worth it or shall I just get a shitload of black plastic ones? Are you talking about valve stem covers?
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May 10, 2015 18:27
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Neptr posted:I don't have a press to take the hub/bearing out of the knuckle, which is why I took the car to a mechanic. I also thought I was paying for the convienence of having someone else do it, but I was wrong. You can probably rent a press from a nearby equipment rental place if you want to do it yourself, but I'd ask your mechanic first and see what he says. If he's willing to do it for free or a reduced price, you might want to do that. The worst thing he'll do is tell you no.
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May 10, 2015 18:36
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VelociBacon posted:Are you talking about valve stem covers? Yep, always called em dustcaps before, though valve stem covers is a bit more descriptive.
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May 10, 2015 19:00
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Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid.
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May 10, 2015 19:38
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DesperateDan posted:Yep, always called em dustcaps before, though valve stem covers is a bit more descriptive. Never heard of them before - now I look, they seem a right pain in the arse to use. If you are frequent pressure-checker, they are fiddly. If you are an infrequent checker, I wouldn't be surprised if they seize up
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May 10, 2015 19:51
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Nvm, hit it with a hammer until I felt better. This solved the problem.
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 21:16 on May 10, 2015 |
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May 10, 2015 20:57
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DesperateDan posted:Yep, always called em dustcaps before, though valve stem covers is a bit more descriptive. I think a 4 pack is about a dollar.
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May 10, 2015 21:39
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid. Mitsu 4G/4D motors? Haven't those been in just about everything?
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May 10, 2015 23:11
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid. At one point you could get the newer shape caldina (which normally comes with a 1AZ/2AZ engine) with a 3SGTE. The very first of the new-shape hiaces came with a 5LTE instead of a 1KD, they're rare as hens teeth. BMW's M30, designed in the early 70's, could be had in the e38 7 series of the late 90's. There are others I can't think of right now.
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May 10, 2015 23:24
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The Rolls Royce V8 was first put in a production car in 1959, and you can still buy a Bentley fitted with one.
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May 10, 2015 23:37
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Anyone have experience with 'rust converters'? I've got a handful of patchy spots and bubbles on a few areas of the car, they're not holes yet but I don't have a grinder to work them down to bare metal - does using a rust converter last, is it going to cause problems in the future? Should I just bite the bullet and have a shop do all of the bodywork?
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May 11, 2015 00:17
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid. Most people don't realize those leaky rear end underperforming Rover V8s were souped up and put in various small number production cars in the UK like TVRs until about 2004.
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May 11, 2015 00:21
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Is the LS1 a Chevy small block? It's in everything.
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May 11, 2015 00:49
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It's a Chevy small block. Usually people talk about the SBC referring to the Gen 1 (your 327s and 350s, etc), while the LS1 is the Gen 3 (started in 1997).
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May 11, 2015 00:59
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Godholio posted:It's a Chevy small block. Usually people talk about the SBC referring to the Gen 1 (your 327s and 350s, etc), while the LS1 is the Gen 3 (started in 1997). Yea. They only used the Gen 1 motors from 1955 to 2003.
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May 11, 2015 01:06
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. puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 11, 2015 01:39
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Motronic posted:Can you tell if it's front or back? Like, especially right after driving (so you've blown the stank off of it). Can't really tell if it's front or back, but it is usually right after driving. I'm gonna have it on stands soon to replace the struts so I was gonna start it up and check everything out. Leperflesh posted:Super low-hanging fruit: check the evap line. Not becuase it's super likely you're losing a lot of fuel from it, but because it's a cheaper fix. How can I find a leak in the evap system without a smoke tester or something? There's no CEL by the way, should I have the codes checked anyway?
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May 11, 2015 01:46
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Since there aren't any codes, you can probably exclude the evap system, and focus your attention on the fuel lines. Does it have an access panel of some sort to get to the fuel pump? I know a lot of cars have one either under the back seat or in the trunk somewhere. e: VVVVV what he said too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:03 on May 11, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 02:05
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You should have the codes ran, you can have some without the CEL on.
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May 11, 2015 02:08
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Yeah I can get to the pump under the back seat, I'll do that after checking all the lines and poo poo. Gonna check for codes just to be sure too.
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May 11, 2015 03:07
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Can anyone tell me where i can find big cheap deep cycle batteries? I am going to a big music festival and would like to run an inverter to power some items but i really dont want to shell out the money for an optima.
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May 11, 2015 13:20
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cr0y posted:big Choose two.
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May 11, 2015 13:24
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You'd probably be better off either with a cheap generator (couple of hundred at Harbor Freight), or if you value sanity, quiet, and reliability, a Honda inverter generator (they're seriously the quietest generator you can find, and put out true AC, but they start around $800 - if you find one on sale). Alternatively, find a place that services forklifts, see if they'll sell some used batteries. What are you trying to power?
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May 11, 2015 13:28
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I am mainly trying to power a big shop fa n as the venue is a big field in Tennessee in June. Lights and speakers will probably be involved as well. I might just use a couple normal batteries wired in parallel. Generators arent appreciated due to the close proximity of everyone at the festival. Edit: is there anything close to the hondas in terms of noise? cr0y fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 11, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 15:12
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Anyone know what o2 sensor data is supposed to look like?  From what I can tell they seem to be working fine, the voltage is always somewhere between .1 and .9 which is good I think and its not flatlining so thats also good? Im chasing a P0133 (passenger upstream o2 slow to respond) and occasional P0153 (driver upstream o2 slow to respond) after installing a mid pipe. No leaks that I can hear, MAF was cleaned last year but Ill give that another shot.
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May 11, 2015 15:24
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I have a quick question as I am trying to narrow down and issue with the wiper assembly. I have a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer 2WD 6 Cylinder the has the following symptoms: Recently, the front washer pump started to pump fluid and ejected the entire tank. Killed it by disconnecting it. Front wipers would still work though, so I rerouted the rear washer fluid pump to the front to at least maintain functionality. Also replaced the front washer pump just in case, still continues to pump non-stop. Now the front wipers will not turn on when switched on by the combination turn signal/cruise control/wipers multiswitch. The front pump will still run if plugged back in though. As I have come to find out, the '02-05 models of this vehicle had a recall on the wiper motor my wife was unaware of for the specific problem that it liked to drink all the water. Sure enough the wiring connector to the motor had some corrosion and water standing. When I took the entire assembly apart and opened up the box on the motor that controlled all the electric things it was full of rust colors mud on the contacts and everywhere. I also turned it upright and a bunch of rusty water poured out of the motor compartment. I am thinking the motor itself is just hosed, but combined with the preceding issue with the wiper pump I am wondering if it is just a switch issue. The difference being would be like $88 worth of parts and loving with the steering column/SRS blowing up in my face for no reason. Do I need to replace both parts or should I replace one or the other and try it before buying the other part? [edit] If this helps, the turn signals and cruise control still work and I swapped around the relays and the fuses just in case to test and it doesn't seem to be those. Although, when I remove the 15 fuse from the wiper slip and put it back it I can hear an audible electrical click type deal like I just closed a circuit. theSpokeyDokey fucked around with this message at 15:33 on May 11, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 15:29
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Cage posted:Anyone know what o2 sensor data is supposed to look like? Yes, I do! And that looks fine and you are correct about how everything should look on the upstream sensor. Why the P-codes are occurring probably depends on how the ECU defines those codes and what is specifically triggering it. It's curious that it started occurring after you installed a mid pipe because that's post-cat and so shouldn't affect the pre-cat sensor at all.
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May 11, 2015 15:45
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totalnewbie posted:Yes, I do! Thanks for the heads up that the sensors look good though. I guess Ill clean the MAF next since Im 99% sure there aren't any leaks. Cage fucked around with this message at 15:56 on May 11, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 15:53
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cr0y posted:I am mainly trying to power a big shop fa n as the venue is a big field in Tennessee in June. Lights and speakers will probably be involved as well. I might just use a couple normal batteries wired in parallel. Generators arent appreciated due to the close proximity of everyone at the festival. One of my uncles has a Yamaha inverter generator that is drat near silent, quite small, and puts out very clean power. Only problem is last I looked it was over $1k and that's for a ~2kW model. Perhaps batteries + solar panel?
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May 11, 2015 16:02
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Cage posted:Er maybe I mixed up my terms. What I installed was the whole catalytic converter assembly, I thought mid-pipe was another name for that oops. Whats goes between the headers and the catback. Okay, well then, it's possible that the pipes are of different lengths than OEM and so the travel time from engine -> O2 sensor is longer than the ECU expects.
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May 11, 2015 16:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:One of my uncles has a Yamaha inverter generator that is drat near silent, quite small, and puts out very clean power. Only problem is last I looked it was over $1k and that's for a ~2kW model. http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html You can do the sums here, to see how many batteries you will need. I bet that fan will be sucking a load of juice.
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May 11, 2015 16:22
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