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Realised I had several hundred holes to drill into reinforced concrete in the next few months, so I bought myself a Milwaukee M18 SDS Rotary Hammer http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2605-20 Was $249, got it out of the door for $149 on sale, and $5ea for SDS Plus bits in 4, 5, 8, 10 and 12mm (they ran out of 6mm's in the bargain bin and I didnt want to spend $15 on one until i have too, cos i'll buy a 4 cutter if im doing that!) Havent tried it out yet, but if its even 1/4 as good as my other milwaukee M18 gear i'll be a happy man.
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# ? May 9, 2015 07:43 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 21:17 |
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Ferremit posted:Realised I had several hundred holes to drill into reinforced concrete in the next few months, so I bought myself a Milwaukee M18 SDS Rotary Hammer Was cordless a necessity? If not, if have bought an honest Bosch or Hilti SDS+ corded drill. I've never had good luck with cordless hammer drills, even for small projects. The batteries just don't last long enough under that kind of load. I'd be interested to hear your experiences.
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# ? May 9, 2015 13:43 |
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Not sure if this link will work here, but Amazon has some Impacts on sale. I'd grab one, but there are other things I need to pick up first.
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# ? May 9, 2015 14:18 |
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fknlo posted:Not sure if this link will work here, but Amazon has some Impacts on sale. I'd grab one, but there are other things I need to pick up first. Speaking of impacts, I'm hoping to pick up a battery powered one soon. What's the best impact I can get for under $300 or so? I'm thinking about getting this Dewalt high torque impact http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF889...s+impact+wrench But I'm open to suggestions.
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# ? May 9, 2015 15:59 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Brake bleeders: vaccum kind that pull fluid through the bleeders, or the pressure units that clamp onto the master and push fluid out? I've got that air pressure Mityvac, works awesome. It's night and day over one of those little handheld ones. I never had good luck with the motive systems sealing but I also never did the junkyard cap thing. Depending on the version the Mityvac comes with an auto filler so you just put a bottle of fluid on the reservoir and walk around to all the corners and pull as much fluid as you want. It's really great being able to totally bleed the system.
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# ? May 9, 2015 17:36 |
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My biggest issue with vacuum bleeders is that I've run into a lot of problems getting them to bleed clutches properly. They seem to work just fine for most brakes, providing you have something to fill the reservoir.
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# ? May 9, 2015 17:41 |
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sbyers77 posted:While we're on the topic... I have a motive power bleeder and I've used it once so far. How fast should the fluid come out when you open the bleeder? It should come out about as fast as manual bleeding, but at a consistent rate. If it is less than that, increase the pressure or make sure you're opening the bleed nut enough (a quarter to a half a turn is fine). It could be you have a faulty bleeder tank like I had; if it is faulty, Motive is pretty cool about fixing any problems - they sent me a new tank at no charge, no questions asked. MrChips fucked around with this message at 18:11 on May 9, 2015 |
# ? May 9, 2015 18:07 |
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Look what this thread made me buy: (Ranger BL-3500) I made a video in action too. Video is like watching paint dry, fyi. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsYjpAbpu5I eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 20:14 on May 9, 2015 |
# ? May 9, 2015 20:10 |
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I'm really, really interested in those now. That may be a better solution for me than a dedicated floor space hogging lift in a place where I can't reasonably run it high enough to walk under a car anyway.
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# ? May 9, 2015 22:58 |
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Motronic posted:I'm really, really interested in those now. Eric The Car Guy has done a video review on them, it;s quite detailed.
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# ? May 9, 2015 23:45 |
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spog posted:Eric The Car Guy has done a video review on them, it;s quite detailed. I have a difficult time considering Eric the Car Guy as authoritative on anything, as I've watched several videos of his on procedures I know a lot about - especially AC - and he appears to be pretty much a hack job with a camera. Sure, he gets the job(s) done, but not really in a way that someone who knows what they are doing would do. More like the old guy at the local garage who still thinks those drat computers ruined everything.
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# ? May 9, 2015 23:52 |
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EAgreed. I watch briansmobile1 instead. Eric the car guy has some good tricks and videos, but there are others where he is just plain straight up wrong and I ended up just closing the video because I figured I was going to want to write an angry, autism-rich message at the end, and I doubt anyone would win there. E: briansmobile1 makes some mistakes too, but nowhere near as bad. For instance on that really stuck cv joint spline project on the volvo SUV, he introduced some pretty horrible stress risers in the neck of the cv cup into the splines by blasting pits in it with the plasma, and then hamfucked the splines pretty bad "cleaning them up" with a triangular file. Other than that, he does good work and has great tricks. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:43 on May 10, 2015 |
# ? May 10, 2015 03:40 |
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Motronic posted:I'm really, really interested in those now. I had the same thoughts. It accomplishes the same results as a floor jack and fully-extended jackstands, but it's a nice luxury to speed up the process. The EZCarLift seems to be the main competitor at like double the cost. It only leaves the centerline "mostly" clear and you have to buy a $100+ adapter kit for every different size car you lift. Also, he doesn't mention that his kits for very small cars actually require the lift to be rotated 90 degrees, completely blocking most under-car work.
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# ? May 10, 2015 04:57 |
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Is there an easily applied garage floor epoxy that doesn't require you to sand the goddamned floor first?
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# ? May 10, 2015 04:59 |
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eddiewalker posted:I had the same thoughts. It accomplishes the same results as a floor jack and fully-extended jackstands, but it's a nice luxury to speed up the process. Too bad its $1000. I like the idea of it but jesus gently caress, I'll just deal with a floor jack and jackstands and keep the thousand dollars.
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# ? May 10, 2015 07:15 |
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Rhyno posted:Is there an easily applied garage floor epoxy that doesn't require you to sand the goddamned floor first? I wouldn't want to risk it, personally. Surface prep determines the majority of the success of any painting/coating materials I've ever worked with or observed. What size area and what's the concrete condition? Is renting a sander out of the question? Muriatic acid etching may be an option, too. It's a project I've had in mind to tackle in my future dream home with an art studio/workshop and garage, hence my interest. Also, I worked for a film production company that was outfitting existing construction for studios and offices and watched a train wreck of a contracted self-leveling epoxy job go down to the tune of >30K for just one room ~40 x 20 ft. But, hey, at least it sparkled. Thorough article on surface prep.
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# ? May 10, 2015 13:41 |
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Motronic posted:I have a difficult time considering Eric the Car Guy as authoritative on anything, as I've watched several videos of his on procedures I know a lot about - especially AC - and he appears to be pretty much a hack job with a camera. Sure, he gets the job(s) done, but not really in a way that someone who knows what they are doing would do. More like the old guy at the local garage who still thinks those drat computers ruined everything. Can't say that I've watched many of his 'how to's - only the tool reviews Even if you don't trust his judgement, there is lots of imagery that you may find useful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMqTFQuPHeY
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# ? May 10, 2015 19:47 |
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eddiewalker posted:I had the same thoughts. It accomplishes the same results as a floor jack and fully-extended jackstands, but it's a nice luxury to speed up the process. I don't think it's at all the same as a floor jack and jacks stands. I wouldn't blow a grand on just speeding that up. I'm looking at this from the standpoint of safety when you're removing large amounts of mass from underneath a vehicle, like when I drop transmissions and motors. These things have a whole lot more to them than a set of stands. You can have more contact to the vehicle and they have a MUCH bigger area in contact with the floor. kastein posted:but there are others where he is just plain straight up wrong and I ended up just closing the video because I figured I was going to want to write an angry, autism-rich message at the end, and I doubt anyone would win there. I've had the exact same experience/reaction. Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:00 on May 10, 2015 |
# ? May 10, 2015 21:56 |
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Geoj posted:Too bad its $1000. I like the idea of it but jesus gently caress, I'll just deal with a floor jack and jackstands and keep the thousand dollars. You can totally get a two post full blown used hoist installed for 1200.
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# ? May 10, 2015 23:20 |
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Arriviste posted:I wouldn't want to risk it, personally. Surface prep determines the majority of the success of any painting/coating materials I've ever worked with or observed. What size area and what's the concrete condition? Is renting a sander out of the question? Muriatic acid etching may be an option, too. I was just hoping to lay down some clear epoxy to protect the floor from oil. It's brand new, we've only been living here a month. The girlfriend took her car for an oil change and they either over tightened the filter, didn't tighten it enough or hosed up something else so I had some mess to clean up.
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# ? May 11, 2015 00:24 |
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sharkytm posted:Was cordless a necessity? If not, if have bought an honest Bosch or Hilti SDS+ corded drill. I've never had good luck with cordless hammer drills, even for small projects. The batteries just don't last long enough under that kind of load. I'd be interested to hear your experiences. It wasnt, but it was $149 for a Milwaukee M18 on sale, or $500+ for a bosch blue/Makita/Milwaukee corded or $1K for a Hilti (Hilti gear is retardo expensive in Aus) My uncles got their smaller M18 SDS+ drill and uses it daily for his work and has been going 6+ months with it no worries- His only advice was use the bigger Amp hour batteries on them, so the 4's and 5's so your not hunting for batteries as often.
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# ? May 11, 2015 01:09 |
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Knowledge is a tool right? What book would be recommended for someone looking to build their first (racecar) motor? Hopefully it would cover topics like overboring and head decking and the concerns you need to have when doing them.
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# ? May 11, 2015 01:24 |
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Preoptopus posted:You can totally get a two post full blown used hoist installed for 1200. And I would have loved that, but: The quickjack still seems like a good solution in my hobbit-hole garage. Plus I can shuffle the jack between cars instead of rearranging cars to meet a stationary lift, since I have 3 jammed in a 2-wide garage. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 04:44 on May 11, 2015 |
# ? May 11, 2015 04:38 |
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Ferremit posted:It wasnt, but it was $149 for a Milwaukee M18 on sale, or $500+ for a bosch blue/Makita/Milwaukee corded or $1K for a Hilti (Hilti gear is retardo expensive in Aus) Yeah, the cost is certainly a lot less. I'll be interested in hearing your experience. I've never used a cordless SDS, just a cordless hammerdrill, which doesn't do well in anything but block or non-large-aggregate concrete.
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# ? May 11, 2015 14:53 |
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That's pretty much the reason I bought it- I've used the Milwaukee SDS and a gently caress off huge 15A hilti at work before and they don't blink at 80mpa reinforced concrete, and when I worked out I had 300 odd holes to drill, it made sense not destroy my hammer drill. Just found out I need council approval for my decks too, even tho they are under the roof lines... So that's gonna be a delay...
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# ? May 11, 2015 15:23 |
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Does anybody have any experience with this inexpensive jack/stands/creeper set from Home Depot: http://homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-Ton-Garage-Jack-Kit-HD00101/204337248/ Seems like it might be an ok alternative to everybody's favourite HF jack on sale.
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# ? May 11, 2015 15:51 |
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Creepers are not really that useful and that jack is tiny. I think you could do better buying separately but it's an OK package.
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# ? May 11, 2015 16:44 |
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BraveUlysses posted:Creepers are not really that useful and that jack is tiny. I think you could do better buying separately but it's an OK package. I use the poo poo out of my creeper, but it also switches to a stool. Unless there are notorious quality issues with HUSKY for jacks/jack stands, $60 for that set looks like a great deal to me.
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# ? May 11, 2015 17:44 |
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I haven't really figured out how to use my creeper efficiently. It always seems like I have to get off the thing right after I get on it. Or I need to torque something but now I'm on wheels so I have to brace myself funny and jam a leg against the frame to keep from moving. I always end up equally dirty because I just roll along on the ground once I decide that the creeper isn't worth my time. Mine also folds into a stool, and it's great for that
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# ? May 11, 2015 17:49 |
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I use my HF creeper almost every time I go under my car and don't get why goons hate creepers so much, but to each their own. As far as that Depot creeper is concerned, I don't like that design. Without recessing the wheels like Dogbone creepers or the HF design it will either have wheels too small to easily roll over things (dropcords, cracks, the rug I keep under my Jeep for some stupid reason) or will raise the creeper too high to be useful. I also don't see any trays for temporary tool storage, but that might be a feature because the wheels are too far from the corners so if, like me, you sit on the edge to get off it will flip up like Marty McFly's skateboard and fling your sockets all over the floor.
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# ? May 11, 2015 18:51 |
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I have to under a car with super low clearance ('62 Mini Cooper), even up on stands. So the creeper is invaluable. Hell, I use the stool version to deal with wheels and pulling the grill for access. I've gotten into the habit of staging tools/parts/lighting before going under, but the having to jump up for something issue does happen a lot.
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# ? May 11, 2015 19:30 |
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Astonishing Wang posted:I haven't really figured out how to use my creeper efficiently. It always seems like I have to get off the thing right after I get on it. Or I need to torque something but now I'm on wheels so I have to brace myself funny and jam a leg against the frame to keep from moving. I always end up equally dirty because I just roll along on the ground once I decide that the creeper isn't worth my time. Mine also folds into a stool, and it's great for that I swear by the matco one at work. its super comfy and rolls really well even on our lovely shop floor. To do it efficiently, im yelling at whoever is around to hand me stuff until i have half my tools around me on the floor sitting in puddles of coolant/atf/oil/grease etc... gently caress having to use it, but sometimes there's no choice.
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# ? May 12, 2015 00:24 |
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Terrible Robot posted:Speaking of impacts, I'm hoping to pick up a battery powered one soon. What's the best impact I can get for under $300 or so? I'm thinking about getting this Dewalt high torque impact I have that impact gun except with the detent pin instead of the hog ring. Get the hog ring as getting the sockets off the detent is a pain in the rear end. It is a good tool and takes the lugs off wheels without issue. Have not used it for much else. It also lasts for a long time on a charge, easily a couple weekends of swapping tires at the track. Compared to a NitroCat 1200k it seems weak but I don't have air at the track.
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# ? May 12, 2015 00:26 |
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I hate creepers because driveway material is almost always too rough for the wheels, even when it's concrete. At work there's lifts, at home there's no room for a car in the garage. At our last place, even the indoor garage floor was too rough. vv
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# ? May 12, 2015 03:38 |
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Cat Hatter posted:I use my HF creeper almost every time I go under my car and don't get why goons hate creepers so much, but to each their own. I think it's because when you're not sure what you're doing, you end up putting the tool you need out of reach of yourself.
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# ? May 12, 2015 10:31 |
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I hate them because when I had Jesus hair I used to run it over all the time and now reflexively flinch when I use one.
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# ? May 12, 2015 11:00 |
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jammyozzy posted:I hate them because when I had Jesus hair I used to run it over all the time and now reflexively flinch when I use one. Just put your hair in a man-bun.
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# ? May 12, 2015 11:57 |
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gently caress, yeah, I forgot about that. Add that to my bitch list too, although it's short now.
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# ? May 12, 2015 18:01 |
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Pro tip, on slow days, a comfy creeper under a car is a great way to get a 20 min nap in. Another protip, dont wake up startled and hit your head.
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# ? May 13, 2015 01:32 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 21:17 |
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Those Bone creepers are pretty goddamned nice. Not exactly super comfortable, but comfortable enough and they have bigass wheels. I generally give up on creepers if I'm deep under the car and just rock the cardboard. I really can't wait to pick up one of the MaxJax shorty lifts someday.
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# ? May 13, 2015 01:47 |