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totalnewbie posted:Okay, well then, it's possible that the pipes are of different lengths than OEM and so the travel time from engine -> O2 sensor is longer than the ECU expects.
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May 11, 2015 16:30
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid. They used those 4.3 V6s in a ton of trucks and the orginal Buick V6 evolved into the last of the 3800 series 3 was shoved into a ton of vehicles, pretty much all GM cars had a model with a 3.8 V6, it was turbo'ed, supercharged.... Carbed, fuel injected.... Yes, it has had many revisions, but good lord, that thing is pretty ubiquitous. They even lived in Jeeps, and I am sure there's other things I am missing.
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May 11, 2015 17:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:One of my uncles has a Yamaha inverter generator that is drat near silent, quite small, and puts out very clean power. Only problem is last I looked it was over $1k and that's for a ~2kW model. Honda EU2000i most likely. Those are absolutely amazing generators, and you can get a cable to sync two of them together for a nearly silent 4k. In this case you absolutely get what you are paying for.
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May 11, 2015 17:22
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Subaru EJ blocks have been used since like 1990 they're still being used in the newest gen STI. I'm sure that will change in the next few years but 25-30 years on one design for almost all of Subarus models is pretty good. They also found work in hobbyists' airplanes and the back of VW Type 1s
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May 11, 2015 17:38
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I have a 2015 Honda Fit EX, and a Samsung Galaxy S5 . I upgraded to lollipop and now whenever I stick my phone on the usb in the car (from either usb port) it pops up that it's connected via mirrorlink. Only the Fit doesn't support mirrorlink, so my phone becomes useless. I have to unplug it to do anything. My phone is apparently impossible to root (or some poo poo, that's not my area of expertise, I Tried two online guides and both failed)...so is there any loving way to turn off mirrorlink on the car end? Disable the USB from trying to do anything other than provide power? Actually remove the loving worthless bloatware app from my phone?
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May 11, 2015 23:28
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Motronic posted:Honda EU2000i most likely. Those are absolutely amazing generators, and you can get a cable to sync two of them together for a nearly silent 4k. I could swear it's a Yamaha, but GIS says those are all blue and the generator in question is red. So yeah, probably a Honda. We used it a few times to power my wife's photo flashes when the lipo+inverter box I built her was not going to provide enough runtime.
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May 11, 2015 23:41
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Elendil004 posted:Samsung Galaxy S5 mirrorlink Try this? http://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00039227/763991326/SM-G900PZWEVMU
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May 11, 2015 23:45
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Elendil004 posted:I have a 2015 Honda Fit EX, and a Samsung Galaxy S5 . I upgraded to lollipop and now whenever I stick my phone on the usb in the car (from either usb port) it pops up that it's connected via mirrorlink. Only the Fit doesn't support mirrorlink, so my phone becomes useless. I have to unplug it to do anything. Or purchase / make a USB condom. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=usb+condom
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May 12, 2015 01:04
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Uthor posted:Try this? The Fit doesn't support it, and turning it off in that settings menus makes the car try to connect again which turns it on, it's automatic and awful. Safety Dance posted:Or purchase / make a USB condom. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=usb+condom Neat, Are any of these more or less reputable? I've heard horror stories of random third party chargers melting and poo poo.
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May 12, 2015 01:17
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Elendil004 posted:Neat, Are any of these more or less reputable? I've heard horror stories of random third party chargers melting and poo poo. They're dead simple. It doesn't _do_ anything, it just prevents your car from realizing there's a phone there. Their intended use is preventing malicious people from stealing your phone's data / putting viruses on your phone if you use an untrusted charging port, e.g. one of those charging kiosks at the airport.
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May 12, 2015 03:04
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2001 Ford F-150 Factory CD changer is jammed and won't eject (or play, or really do anything except make a crunching noise when you hit eject, and cause the stereo to show "CHANGER ERROR" or something like that). There's a couple of CDs in there that my stepdad wants that I haven't been able to track down replacements for. I know that actually getting the CDs out will probably require taking the entire changer apart (... it's broken anyway at this point), but his truck has an in-dash CD player he can use. How the hell does the changer come out? It's inside of the center console - am I correct in assuming the entire center console has to come out?
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May 12, 2015 06:02
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Safety Dance posted:They're dead simple. It doesn't _do_ anything, it just prevents your car from realizing there's a phone there. Their intended use is preventing malicious people from stealing your phone's data / putting viruses on your phone if you use an untrusted charging port, e.g. one of those charging kiosks at the airport. Awesome, thank you, this is a much better solution than rooting my phone
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May 12, 2015 12:32
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some texas redneck posted:if you value sanity, quiet, and reliability, a Honda inverter generator (they're seriously the quietest generator you can find, and put out true AC, but they start around $800 - if you find one on sale). Don't forget rental! Home Depot rents the Honda gennies for ~$20–25 a day. Hopping out to a shorter music festival, that's a small amount of money well-spent (if the exhaust isn't an issue).
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May 12, 2015 16:38
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Molten Llama posted:Don't forget rental! Home Depot rents the Honda gennies for ~$20–25 a day. Somebody mentioned it but I hear the Yamaha units are good too, but I don't think they're much if any cheaper. Remember if you put a full load on it it will be loud too. When eco mode is enabled it adjusts the speed of the engine to match load. Full load == full throttle. Might still be quieter than others anyway, don't have a whole lot of experience.
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May 13, 2015 00:32
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As someone who's been to music festivals and seen plenty of generators up close.. the Hondas are incredibly quiet, even under full load. It's not something you'd be able to sleep next to, and you wouldn't want to set it up near tents, but they're the quietest gas powered portable you'll find. They also put out nearly utility-quality AC power, while most generators put out really dirty AC that you wouldn't want to plug anything sensitive into. Molten Llama posted:Don't forget rental! Home Depot rents the Honda gennies for ~$20–25 a day. That's good to know. I might start renting one just before a major storm hits just so I can keep the fridge/internet/other important poo poo running, just in case. Our power rarely goes out (averages less than once a year), but when it does, it's usually out for a significant amount of time (12+ hours, longest was 6 days... talk about a seriously ugly fridge after that).
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May 13, 2015 05:27
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I managed to very slowly curb the rear passenger side wheel driving out of a starbucks. Ended up with a bit of sidewall damage + wheel rash: (ignore the clear coat falling off, that's a result of FORD-QUALITY). Is this something that needs to be repaired? Can't see the bead under the tear, at least for now, there doesn't seem to be any loss of air. I'm just concerned a bit because I'm going to put 4000 miles on that tire in 10 days soon.
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May 13, 2015 15:21
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slotted rotors tend to be frowned upon for non track cars right? can someone explain that again I always forget the reasoning.
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May 13, 2015 15:56
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All holes do is create areas for heat cracks to form.
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May 13, 2015 15:58
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baram. posted:slotted rotors tend to be frowned upon for non track cars right? can someone explain that again I always forget the reasoning. Slotted rotors just wipe the pad surface clean, so you'll go through pads faster. Best thing for a street car is the cheapest, plain rotors that won't warp or crack. Centric is great and you can get them on Amazon Prime.
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May 13, 2015 16:26
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baram. posted:slotted rotors tend to be frowned upon for non track cars right? can someone explain that again I always forget the reasoning. I could go on a multi-page explanation why slotted rotors are a bad idea for just about any application, but basically brakes operate by turning kinetic energy into thermal energy. The more mass the rotor has the more heat it is able to absorb, and slotting or cross-drilling them does absolutely nothing to assist in cooling - you're actually decreasing braking performance by removing metal from the rotor. Also brake pad compound has come a long way and "give waste gas from the pads somewhere to go" hasn't been a major concern since the early 60s. Buy the cheapest set of plain rotors you can find, spend the extra money on good pads. Geoj fucked around with this message at 04:14 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 13, 2015 20:23
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shodanjr_gr posted:I managed to very slowly curb the rear passenger side wheel driving out of a starbucks. Ended up with a bit of sidewall damage + wheel rash: Completely anecdotal, IANAL, nor am I a tire expert, but... I've driven on something similar for a year plus with no issues. I'd say it's probably 50/50 of completing your voyage.
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May 14, 2015 04:07
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Electrolytic rust removal: good idea to use it on factory plated (2000 Honda so I'm assuming zinc chromate) or stainless pieces?
Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 17:15 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 14, 2015 16:15
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I want to paint my wheels on the 87 B2000 since they are old ugly condition chrome dealies, but I am lazy and do not wish to either remove the tires from the wheels nor do the thing with a bajillion 3x5 note cards. Since the tires are old as poo poo and will need to be replaced in the next year anyways is there any reason why I shouldn't just go ahead and scrub the wheels down and paint it as is? Looking ugly until this set is replaced is no big deal, making trouble for whoever gets to do the next tire swap would be a problem.
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May 14, 2015 17:02
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Buy 5x7 index cards instead? If thats the part you're hung up on why do anything at all? You could spray everything with plastidip and then just use a plastic knife to separate and peel I guess.
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May 14, 2015 17:52
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No it's just kind of an  thing to go through for old crappy tires that will be replaced soonish on a beat rear end truck. If it's not going to cause someone at a tire shop problems or create some safety issue I'm oblivious of I don't think it's worth the effort to do the index card thing.If I already had new tires mounted it wouldn't be a question, I'd just suck it up. But I don't so I just want to make sure of the above.
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May 14, 2015 18:07
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I dont see how a wheel with overspray on the tire would look better than some old chrome but no that wouldn't cause any problems for a tire installer.
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May 14, 2015 18:16
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Parts Kit posted:No it's just kind of an I'm pretty lazy too but if you're going to paint your wheels you might as well take the 10 minutes to NOT paint your tires. Also - if you don't want to take the time to protect the tire I assume you're also not taking the time to clean and sand the wheel so it's going to look lovely no matter how you do it. My question: Does anyone know anything about the 70's GMC High Emission motors? A suburban I looked at has the high emission 350, and I'm wondering how much fuckery it would take to supe it up a little. Is a 350 a 350 for the most part? Would switching to headers and a new intake, maybe carb, be all it would need?
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May 14, 2015 18:16
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Parts Kit posted:I want to paint my wheels on the 87 B2000 since they are old ugly condition chrome dealies, but I am lazy and do not wish to either remove the tires from the wheels nor do the thing with a bajillion 3x5 note cards. Since the tires are old as poo poo and will need to be replaced in the next year anyways is there any reason why I shouldn't just go ahead and scrub the wheels down and paint it as is? Looking ugly until this set is replaced is no big deal, making trouble for whoever gets to do the next tire swap would be a problem.
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May 14, 2015 19:41
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Astonishing Wang posted:I'm pretty lazy too but if you're going to paint your wheels you might as well take the 10 minutes to NOT paint your tires. Also - if you don't want to take the time to protect the tire I assume you're also not taking the time to clean and sand the wheel so it's going to look lovely no matter how you do it. Yeah this. Putting cards on your wheels is going to be theleast time consuming part of your prep process. Remember that it's 90% prep, 10% paint.
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May 14, 2015 19:44
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InitialDave posted:I bet if you sprayed a rag with some silicone spray, WD40 or whatever, and wiped it around the tyre just before painting, the paint'd not adhere and flake off easily afterwards. May be worth an experiment? I think WD40 fucks with rubber in some way but silicone spray would be fine AFAIK.
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May 14, 2015 21:40
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Oh God this is such a stupid question but is there any real value to the paint, leather, rust, etc protection that dealers push? I know it's not worth what they want to charge for it but it's it worth taking if you can haggle it down?
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May 14, 2015 23:20
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TKIY posted:Oh God this is such a stupid question but is there any real value to the paint, leather, rust, etc protection that dealers push? At even post-haggling dealer prices and approach to carryign it out? Almost certainly not in my opinion. If you want it, I suggest a specialist in whatever it is you're after.
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May 14, 2015 23:33
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InitialDave posted:Is it the kind of thing that's worth having? Yes. Okay that's what I was thinking. My dealer is basically bending over backwards for me thanks to events previously mentioned in this thread so I'm debating pushing for some considerations from them on this stuff.
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May 14, 2015 23:37
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Seems like they've already made a poo poo-load of considerations?
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May 14, 2015 23:45
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Astonishing Wang posted:Seems like they've already made a poo poo-load of considerations? Oh they have, but I'm sure that they'd give me these services at their cost or near. I'm not being an rear end here but if they are offering the services at a significant discount I'm trying to figure out if it's worth having done. I'm trying to be practical, not ungrateful.
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May 15, 2015 00:05
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TKIY posted:Oh they have, but I'm sure that they'd give me these services at their cost or near. I'm not being an rear end here but if they are offering the services at a significant discount I'm trying to figure out if it's worth having done. In general I think the detail stuff they would do is suspect at best. If they can't deliver a car without introducing a crap load of micro-scratches, I wouldn't trust them with applying a semi-permanent coating to the seats or paint. The undercoat might be the only thing I'd say you should go for, factory fresh car with a clean underside is pretty much the best time to apply extra rustproofing, and the fancy stuff they shoot on should last a decent amount of time. Plus it's not visible from the exterior of the car so even if it's not the prettiest application it should suffice as long as they got good coverage. If you want to do the fancy detail stuff I'd recommend ReBirth detailing locally.
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May 15, 2015 00:47
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Astonishing Wang posted:Does anyone know anything about the 70's GMC High Emission motors? A suburban I looked at has the high emission 350, and I'm wondering how much fuckery it would take to supe it up a little. Is a 350 a 350 for the most part? Would switching to headers and a new intake, maybe carb, be all it would need? The stuff you mentioned won't hurt a bit, but IIRC most of the 70s engines were really choked up by the heads and cam.
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May 15, 2015 01:38
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TKIY posted:Oh God this is such a stupid question but is there any real value to the paint, leather, rust, etc protection that dealers push? If and only if you know (a) you're not moving anytime soon and (b) you'll actually make the time for every required appointment. Those protection services are 90% easily-voided insurance and 10% superfluous product.
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May 15, 2015 01:42
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TKIY posted:Oh God this is such a stupid question but is there any real value to the paint, leather, rust, etc protection that dealers push? Have you considered any undercoating? 
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May 15, 2015 01:51
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some texas redneck posted:The stuff you mentioned won't hurt a bit, but IIRC most of the 70s engines were really choked up by the heads and cam. This. Get some decent heads, an aluminum intake manifold, decent cam, and headers and depending on the specific parts you buy, you might actually double the output.
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May 15, 2015 03:39
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