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Qwijib0 posted:This is ~$400, though unless you like lots of bass, the sub is probably optional. I don't run one with those speakers and they go deeper than you'd expect for the size of the driver. I'd start without it and then see if you need it. If your current sub has line-level inputs, you could also just keep using it and not attach the satellites. The lepai inputs are in parallel, so you can just attach the sub to the one you're not using as an input. One last question. Is there an advantage to the Modi 2 over the Modi? The Modi is $30 cheaper. The only difference I can see is that Modi 2 support 24/192 sampling rates whereas I think Modi 1 only does 24/96. I don't even know what that means, but if I should just get the 2 then I will.
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Apr 24, 2015 00:40
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There probably should be a thread for cool stuff like that. If it hits €200 and they aren't white van garbage (which they don't look like), they'd be a good pickup for someone. The paintwork on them doesn't work for me either though.
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Apr 24, 2015 04:47
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EL BROMANCE posted:There probably should be a thread for cool stuff like that. If it hits €200 and they aren't white van garbage (which they don't look like), they'd be a good pickup for someone. The paintwork on them doesn't work for me either though. Probably the craigslist thread nobody posts in.
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Apr 24, 2015 10:11
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Caddrel posted:One last question. Is there an advantage to the Modi 2 over the Modi? The Modi is $30 cheaper. The only difference I can see is that Modi 2 support 24/192 sampling rates whereas I think Modi 1 only does 24/96. I don't even know what that means, but if I should just get the 2 then I will. I didn't see that you could still get the original on closeout, yeah just do that.
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Apr 25, 2015 21:51
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AudioQuest has a new solution to USB ghosts that can haunt your cables and interfere with your bitsquote:it is expanding the range with the creation of the AudioQuest Jitterbug - an advanced USB line and data conditioner 
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May 7, 2015 20:49
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Looks to be only passive components, so it won't be replacing any values.
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May 7, 2015 20:54
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taqueso posted:Looks to be only passive components, so it won't be replacing any values. Well yeah, my question is how is this not just blatantly false advertising compared to the usual audiophile hand-waving. Like the thing can't actually eliminate any errors and honestly it's probably more likely to introduce them.
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May 7, 2015 21:09
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qirex posted:Well yeah, my question is how is this not just blatantly false advertising compared to the usual audiophile hand-waving. Like the thing can't actually eliminate any errors and honestly it's probably more likely to introduce them. It doesn't say it fixes errors. Maybe it just stops them from happening!  Yeah, "reduces errors" definitely sounds like a guarantee that can have a false advertising claim brought against it (Not a lawyer).
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May 7, 2015 23:02
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You would need a monstrously bad USB cable to get "packet errors within the data stream" in the first place. But that is a pretty specific claim that could be tested.
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May 8, 2015 11:21
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Willing to bet it's some sort of mains-frequency-specific filter and if called out on it they can probably point to an oscilloscope showing it reduces the noise on the line. Still pointless but probably *just* this side of legal as far as claims go.
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May 8, 2015 11:25
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I'm just shocked that the circuit board is green and not pure white or darkest black.
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May 8, 2015 15:45
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taqueso posted:I'm just shocked that the circuit board is green and not pure white or darkest black. Pre-production prototype. I'm sure they'll get anodized USB connectors or whatever the gently caress people think makes something look high quality when they go into production.
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May 8, 2015 15:48
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taqueso posted:I'm just shocked that the circuit board is green and not pure white or darkest black. You wont see it when its inside a garden hose and sleeving
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May 8, 2015 15:59
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Don Lapre posted:You wont see it when its inside a garden hose and sleeving But the electrons will know 
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May 8, 2015 16:04
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quote:parasitic resonances
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May 9, 2015 02:44
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qirex posted:Well yeah, my question is how is this not just blatantly false advertising compared to the usual audiophile hand-waving. Like the thing can't actually eliminate any errors and honestly it's probably more likely to introduce them. You think audiophiles and the people who sell poo poo to them care about blatant false advertising? This is an industry in which you can literally sell magic rocks. And rebrand generic goods with inordinate markups by spouting complete nonsense in your advertising materials. God I wish I didn't have a sense of ethics.
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May 9, 2015 10:23
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Anyone here use Audioengine speakers? How would you connect these components: DAC A5+ speakers Subwoofer Would have to be something like this (using splitters)? 
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May 9, 2015 16:01
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The A5+s have a volume-controlled set of outputs specifically meant for hooking up a subwoofer. All you gotta do then is set the volume and crossover frequency (probably around 50-60hz) on the subwoofer and then control the volume from the speakers (or your source).
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May 9, 2015 16:08
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I already had it that way, it's my recently acquired DAC that's throwing me off. I can connect the DAC easily to the speakers, but not sure how to also connect it to the subwoofer as well.
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May 9, 2015 16:48
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But why do you want to hook it up differently, just because you have a new DAC? Fidelity-wise, there is no reason why you wouldn't just use the output connectors on the speakers. It allows you to control the speaker and sub volume together, and it saves you from having to use splitter cables. E: All of the three options you posted will work exactly the same, there is no electrical difference at all. But it be less optimal when actually using the setup, compared to using the outputs from the speakers. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 17:01 on May 9, 2015 |
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May 9, 2015 16:58
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Maybe we're misunderstanding each other? I have these things I'm trying to connect together: PC A dac headphones A5+ speakers Audioengine s8 subwoofer I've already been using the A5+ speakers for a few years, and last month acquired the sub-woofer. This week I got the dac and headphones. It's easy to connect the speakers to the DAC and the dac to the PC (and the headphones to the DAC), or the speakers into the subwoofer and the subwoofer to the PC (no DAC in this scenario). I was just having a hard time figuring out how you could connect them all these things together. Is this the solution? (the middle figure on the top is the DAC)
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May 9, 2015 21:33
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You're completely overcomplicating this. Connect the PC to the DAC. Connect the DAC to the input terminals on the active speaker. Connect the output terminals on the active speaker to the input terminals on the subwoofer. Then you set the crossover/lowpass on the sub so it integrates nicely with the speakers' natural bass dropoff and set the volume on the sub so it matches the speakers. From that point on, you only adjust the volume on the speakers or the PC, not on the sub. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 21:40 on May 9, 2015 |
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May 9, 2015 21:37
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Thanks buddy. It works now.
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May 9, 2015 22:22
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Glad to hear it  Now spin some tunes on your sweet setup!
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May 9, 2015 23:39
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Nah, I'm overcomplicating it:
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May 10, 2015 07:23
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Waldo P Barnstormer posted:Nah, I'm overcomplicating it: I hope there's some kind of explanation for that 
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May 10, 2015 11:02
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64bit FP? Really?
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May 10, 2015 17:18
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It's J River Media Center, an audiophile grade music player. Here's what Computer Audiophile had to say. quote:"In January 2010 at CES I listened to a demo using JRMC 14 and was really pleased with the sound. JRMC was running on a Mac laptop with Boot Camp and Windows 7. I compared the sound to the OS X / iTunes partition on the same laptop and was surprised at how much better I like JRMC in that system. I was finally convinced I needed to take JRMC much more seriously. Shortly after arriving home from Las Vegas I arranged a meeting with the people at JRiver and started using the application exclusively." I use it because it's filtering and routing is really powerful. If you follow the filter chain in the screenshot you can see everything is plugged into my sound card incorrectly.
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May 10, 2015 17:42
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So... You have the left and right speakers swapped, and your subwoofer hooked up to the center channel? Why?
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May 10, 2015 17:53
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Oh my...this thread is going places. 
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May 10, 2015 17:57
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KozmoNaut posted:So... That's just how everything got plugged into my soundcard. I noticed the music was coming out back to front and fixed it up in software because I couldn't be bothered pulling everything out to reconnect things properly.
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May 10, 2015 18:01
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Waldo P Barnstormer posted:That's just how everything got plugged into my soundcard. I noticed the music was coming out back to front and fixed it up in software because I couldn't be bothered pulling everything out to reconnect things properly. Like a true goon 
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May 10, 2015 18:03
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Combat Pretzel posted:64bit FP? Really? quote:All audio handling inside the program is done with 64 bits of precision. Most high-end hardware uses 24-bit output, meaning the engine has an additional 240 dB of precision above the hardware's output. As a result, should you choose to use them, digital volume, room correction, and other audio functions are pristine. 
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May 10, 2015 18:11
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Well, sounds like it's integer math, if it's "only" 240dB headroom. Why would you go with ints instead of double precision floats?!
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May 10, 2015 20:32
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Quoted from the computer build megathreadWoolie Wool posted:I was going to post an argument, but you know what, I'm not even going to bother engaging with someone who insists that an absolute bargain basement integrated unit similar to the very cheapest thing Schiit makes (the Fulla, which is just like the E10k and priced at $79) with a cheap 3.5mm jack is somehow better than a dedicated DAC three rungs up the food chain with RCA outputs. I shouldn't have even mentioned what sound hardware I was using because goons get all crazy about anything above the absolute cheapest poo poo available with anything that's not reducible to pure numbers of gigabytes, gigahertz, and gigaflops. I honestly can't tell if this guy is being serious.
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May 12, 2015 01:47
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grack posted:Quoted from the computer build megathread He's half right. Audiophiles are bad but goons are bad too.
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May 12, 2015 03:01
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grack posted:Quoted from the computer build megathread Reading his previous posts, I'd say he's definitely an idiot who thinks expensive = better. Goons may be bad sometimes, but none of the arguments made against his expensive DAC are particularly goony. Then again, I paid more than that for my ODAC+O2.
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May 12, 2015 06:41
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KozmoNaut posted:Reading his previous posts, I'd say he's definitely an idiot who thinks expensive = better. I think paying for style is ok. I dont really mind people spending all that money on Beats since how they sound is of secondary importance to them.
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May 12, 2015 07:16
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Fauxtool posted:I think paying for style is ok. But he's not paying for style. His main argument against the cheaper, but equally good DAC is that it's got a built-in headphone amp and 3.5mm jacks instead of RCAs, both of which he claims will lessen the sound quality. He doesn't explain why he thinks that would happen. He also wishes he could afford a more expensive DAC, again probably based on a mistaken belief that expensive=better.
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May 12, 2015 07:57
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KozmoNaut posted:But he's not paying for style. His main argument against the cheaper, but equally good DAC is that it's got a built-in headphone amp and 3.5mm jacks instead of RCAs, both of which he claims will lessen the sound quality. He doesn't explain why he thinks that would happen. im supporting your purchase of that stupid, pretty ODAC+O2, not arguing against your statement
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May 12, 2015 08:31
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