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Tots posted:Is tying into top rope bolt anchors doable/safe with static rope instead of a sling? A bolt hanger? Like this? No. What kind of anchor do you mean? Static rope is fine for setting up a top rope, but don't put anything soft through a bolt hanger.
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May 13, 2015 15:47
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To be clearer, I want to use static rope instead of a sling in the following picture:
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May 13, 2015 16:11
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Can't see any problem with that.
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May 13, 2015 16:26
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Tots posted:To be clearer, I want to use static rope instead of a sling in the following picture: Yes, people do that all the time. Edit: Typically using cordelette, which is what I am picturing when you say static rope.
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May 13, 2015 16:27
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Tots posted:To be clearer, I want to use static rope instead of a sling in the following picture: Yeah, absolutely fine.
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May 13, 2015 18:02
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Assuming the setup in the picture, would a bowline attached to each carabiner at the top with a double figure eight on a bight for the bottom be safe?
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May 13, 2015 19:30
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Tots posted:Assuming the setup in the picture, would a bowline attached to each carabiner at the top with a double figure eight on a bight for the bottom be safe? I would tie the cordelette into a loop using two fisherman's as described here and then use it exactly like I would otherwise use a sling.
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May 13, 2015 20:16
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Samesies, though there are safe ways to use it as you described.
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May 13, 2015 21:09
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Cordelette used as a sling sounds much easier. Would 7mm thickness be strong enough? Also, i'm assuming that two fisherman method has like 0% chance of slip?
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May 13, 2015 21:19
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Yes and yes. Make sure to leave ~1" of tail (3x diameter) on those fisherman's.
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May 13, 2015 21:29
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Tots posted:Cordelette used as a sling sounds much easier. Would 7mm thickness be strong enough? Also, i'm assuming that two fisherman method has like 0% chance of slip? Yup. Tots posted:Assuming the setup in the picture, would a bowline attached to each carabiner at the top with a double figure eight on a bight for the bottom be safe? I'd be interested in hearing if the bowlines will even make a difference. The system already seems redundant. Just one piece of advice though. Please please please learn from someone who knows what they're doing or take a course.
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May 13, 2015 23:28
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crazycello posted:I'd be interested in hearing if the bowlines will even make a difference. The system already seems redundant. I think he's talking about using an unlooped length of cord where the bowlines would be used to create a loop to clip the cord to the anchor. Seconding the education, a good instructor/course will provide you with both a set of standard practices to follow as well as the tools/knowledge around climbing anchors to be able to work through questions like this on your own which is a valuable skill the first time you drop/forget something important and are at the anchors under equipped.
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May 13, 2015 23:41
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I usually tie a figure of 8 into one of the anchors, a figure of 8 on a bight in the centre to attach the carabiners for the climbing rope (which I usually clip in and throw down at this point), then a clove hitch on the other anchor, as it's easy to equalize and get enough tension through it.
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May 14, 2015 06:59
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Lowes used to sell a 4 to 16 ft extension pole, but they don't have it anymore. I am looking for something that goes from roughly 4 ft (so it will fit in a trunk) to at least 12 ft, ideally 16, and having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone know of something I can buy online?
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May 14, 2015 16:36
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armorer posted:Lowes used to sell a 4 to 16 ft extension pole, but they don't have it anymore. I am looking for something that goes from roughly 4 ft (so it will fit in a trunk) to at least 12 ft, ideally 16, and having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone know of something I can buy online? You mean a clip stick? I've got some version of this: http://www.trango.com/p-266-beta-stick.aspx There are actually two longer versions than shown on the Trango website but I don't know where you can get them in the US. http://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com/products/brands/climb/betastick/betastick-sport/beta-stick-sport-v2.html
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May 14, 2015 16:54
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Stick clips... Getting to the first bolt is part of the fun!
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May 14, 2015 17:45
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Stick clips: nothing more embarrassing than breaking your ankle on a warm up Build your own stick clip. You need a painters pole, 2 hose clamps, and an adjustable spring clamp. tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 17:50 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 14, 2015 17:46
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Yeah - for a stick clip. I am looking for an adjustable painters pole like I described. That tango thing is pretty expensive but the collapsible range is basically right for what I want.
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May 14, 2015 17:56
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So I joined my gyms bouldering league in the v3-5 bracket but really I'm probably at the lower end of that spectrum. (Currently doing probly 80-90% of v3s and 30-40% of v4s). Any suggestions for training over the next few weeks so I'm not dragging down my team? Either common skills worth developing in that range or even just basic training ideas would be appreciated.
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May 14, 2015 18:16
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armorer posted:Lowes used to sell a 4 to 16 ft extension pole, but they don't have it anymore. I am looking for something that goes from roughly 4 ft (so it will fit in a trunk) to at least 12 ft, ideally 16, and having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone know of something I can buy online? http://hydestore.com/richard-95077-4-to-12-soft-grip-aluminium-extension-pole-3-sections.html http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/589006-unger-professional-3-section-telepole.html http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ettore-16-ft-Reach-Extension-Pole-44016/204267834?N=5yc1vZcb3g
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May 14, 2015 19:36
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Speleothing posted:http://hydestore.com/richard-95077-4-to-12-soft-grip-aluminium-extension-pole-3-sections.html Awesome, thanks! Pretty sure that Ettore one is the one Lowes used to carry.
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May 14, 2015 20:23
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Any good tips for winter specific training? It's a little while to go yet but my last season was a complete washout and I live a lot further away from the ice now so I want to make every trip up there count. At the moment I'm just doing lots of axe pullups. I climb leashless but I'm doing most of my pullups on straight shafted tools to simulate those gripped runouts.
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May 15, 2015 00:35
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Does anyone have any tips for knowing when pain or discomfort means 'take a break for a few days/weeks' rather than it just being standard aches after training? I've got a really, really mild finger niggle but I seem to have broken through a plateau and I'm smashing v4-6's all over the place (indoors  ) so I'd rather not take a break unless I had to...but I'm paranoid about a niggle turning into a proper injury.
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May 15, 2015 11:55
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toiletbrush posted:Does anyone have any tips for knowing when pain or discomfort means 'take a break for a few days/weeks' rather than it just being standard aches after training? I've got a really, really mild finger niggle but I seem to have broken through a plateau and I'm smashing v4-6's all over the place (indoors How often are you training and how long have you had the problem? If you've had 1 or 2 rest days and it's still there, I'd say it needs more rest. If it's new, then hopefully it'll go soon. I personally try not to climb on anything more than normal muscle aches, because I'd rather have 3-4 days off than have to stop climbing for a month or 2.
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May 15, 2015 12:39
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Chris! posted:How often are you training and how long have you had the problem? If you've had 1 or 2 rest days and it's still there, I'd say it needs more rest. If it's new, then hopefully it'll go soon. I personally try not to climb on anything more than normal muscle aches, because I'd rather have 3-4 days off than have to stop climbing for a month or 2. toiletbrush fucked around with this message at 13:21 on May 15, 2015 |
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May 15, 2015 13:19
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Try to work on more open have crimps. It will put less stress on your joints.
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May 15, 2015 14:31
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spwrozek posted:Try to work on more open have crimps. It will put less stress on your joints. Hahaha ignore this fellow. Crimp hard. Crimp often. Crimp closed or open. Crimp everything.  Get on the Beastmaker and go to town. You should actually rest your hands if they're still sore and painful after a session, and work on slopers. They are superior to crimps anyways.
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May 15, 2015 14:36
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big scary monsters posted:Any good tips for winter specific training? It's a little while to go yet but my last season was a complete washout and I live a lot further away from the ice now so I want to make every trip up there count. At the moment I'm just doing lots of axe pullups. I climb leashless but I'm doing most of my pullups on straight shafted tools to simulate those gripped runouts. Do that, but with this variation: Have multiple sets of pegs so you can pull up, take one handle off, move it to another peg, then lower. Practice moving your grips and swapping hands while hanging one-handed.
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May 15, 2015 14:59
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spwrozek posted:Try to work on more open have crimps. It will put less stress on your joints. sloper routes are the best routes
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May 15, 2015 16:05
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Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst.
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May 15, 2015 17:56
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spwrozek posted:Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst. Slopers are literally Hitler please ignore the fact that I am awful at them.
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May 15, 2015 18:20
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spwrozek posted:Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst. jug life
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May 15, 2015 18:35
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You can crimp a sloper if you're strong enough...
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May 15, 2015 18:42
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spwrozek posted:Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst. I suppose that would explain why you can't do the V2 on the garage wall. 
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May 15, 2015 19:31
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Bud Manstrong posted:jug life
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May 15, 2015 19:46
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gamera009 posted:I suppose that would explain why you can't do the V2 on the garage wall. 45 degree overhang with sloppers... 
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May 15, 2015 20:05
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Climbed up in clear creek canyon today. Me crossing the tyrolean.  My buddy crossing the tyrolean.  In the belay pod.  Looking down from the top.  In the belay Pod In the belay pod some more.  We saw a few rafts and kayaks roll by while over there and also while I was pulling back across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnQr0NCNxnA
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May 16, 2015 22:43
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Bud Manstrong posted:jug life New thread title. spwrozek posted:Climbed up in clear creek canyon today. Man, I really got to get up to CCC.
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May 16, 2015 22:49
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RIP Dean Potter. Really bummed about this. http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/dean-potter-killed-in-wingsuit-accident-in-yosemite
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May 18, 2015 06:58
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Bud Manstrong posted:jug life Someone put this on a shirt and I'll buy it.
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May 18, 2015 20:02
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