|
Raluek posted:The lights bit I'd suspect the headlight switch. All those things run through there. I don't really know anything about the Dynasty, but I'd see if I could get my hands on a used part to swap it with to see. If it's not that, perhaps the wiring that feeds the switch? But switches are a more common failure. Thanks - turned out the alternator was half-bad, if that can be a thing. Was outputting about 10v - enough to start the car and not much else, I guess. Still dunno why I could start the car after letting the battery sit for a while. Gonna investigate the switch and the ignition switch to figure out why the taillights/running lights don't work, everything else is fine now
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 22:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:05 |
|
|
So, my dealer said I need all rotors and pads replaced. I've had the car for 100k km. I asked if they could resurface them since I saw Edd China do that once but apparently they're garbage throwaways (it's a KIA Forte). My question is: what's the best way to do this? Go to the dealer (like anyone in AI would recommend this), chain brake/lube place, or buy the stuff at PartSource/Canadian Tire and find someone to do it?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 23:33
|
|
|
Do it yourself. Pads and rotors are usually an easy job. Auto mechanic 101.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 23:35
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Kinda stumped here. 2000 323 touring. Replaced both of tie rods, not just the ends. Ghetto alignment with strings but the steering wheel still drops to the left sometimes over bumps. Wtf? BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:50 on May 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 23:43
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Do it yourself. Pads and rotors are usually an easy job. Auto mechanic 101. I have zero tools and no access to a garage so I'm afraid I'm at the mercy of the licensed for now.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 23:50
|
|
|
Nurse Chapel posted:2010 Hyundai Accent 3door GS. 40K miles, still in warranty. I got it from a dealer who shockingly didn't try to rip me off at the sale so I've been going to them for service since then, and they've never tried to push anything on me, just always had oil changes with no problems, and one in-warranty repair. They changed management I think because there's all new guys at the service desk -- though it's still the same mechanics. So the last time I went in I supposedly needed brake fluid and power steering fluid replaced because they were "dark and cloudy". My BS meter is going off so I said no. The Internet has varying opinions as to whether these things need changing so I am asking the good SA goons for help. Is this reasonable or should I find someone else? Brake fluid naturally darkens with time, and most OEM shop manuals will state that by itself color is not an indicator for service. The most reliable way to assess brake fluid is by actually testing it. Many shops do not. Power steering fluid is a little more complicated; depending on the system design and the fluid, color changes may be normal, or they may be indicative of worn fluid (whether that's simply time/heat or that's being full of wear particles). "Cloudy" here is the larger concern. If either fluid really is cloudy, it can be indicative of moisture contamination, which is not something you want in either system. All that said, neither wear nor excess moisture would be normally be a concern at 40,000 miles (though the latter in particular is more likely at 6 years). Best suggestion: Pop the hood, eyeball the fluids yourself, and get a second opinion from a friend's trusted garage if they look dark and/or cloudy to you. Also check your owner's manual for any recommended service interval.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 00:14
|
|
|
Molten Llama posted:Brake fluid naturally darkens with time, and most OEM shop manuals will state that by itself color is not an indicator for service. The most reliable way to assess brake fluid is by actually testing it. Many shops do not. Power steering fluid is a little more complicated; depending on the system design and the fluid, color changes may be normal, or they may be indicative of worn fluid (whether that's simply time/heat or that's being full of wear particles). Kia/Hyundai specs say brake fluid should be done every 2 years/30,000km, but I'd call that very conservative. Power steering fluid at 40k miles is a steaming pile of freshly minted bullshit.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 01:39
|
|
|
Question about a 2002 Ford Focus ZTS with the DOHC engine, 180,000 km. I bought this car last week, and on Saturday the cooling system blew, dropping 3 litres on the highway and needing a tow to a mechanic. So far, we're $750 in with a water pump and thermostat, with estimated 300 more for a temp sensor since now the fans won't come on. Here's the thing - I had the car inspected before buying, and the cooling system tested out fine (aside from needing a flush). BUT the main thing is that I have maintenance records showing that the water pump was replaced under 2 years ago. Is there some systemic problem that would cause the car to eat water pumps so quickly? What should I watch for? We're worried that this could happen again in 2 years....
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 01:46
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Civic Si 2007 http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/11/SNB6E11K73300000000BBAT00.html Also check your fuse and relay for the compressor clutch.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 02:29
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Here's an additional thing to try, the HVAC actually has a built in diagnostic check you can do yourself. Also FYI for some reason that site doesn't work entirely right in not-IE browsers. Oh poo poo thats awesome! Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 02:40
|
|
|
a primate posted:I have zero tools and no access to a garage so I'm afraid I'm at the mercy of the licensed for now. In that case, find a small garage (i.e. privately owned, somewhere in between dealer and Miadis) and get them to do it for you. It's pretty rude to to buy your own parts and ask a professional to install them; just let them do their thing.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 02:52
|
|
|
Has anyone here used one of those used engine importers that has a lot of low mileage imported Japanese motors because of forced obsolescence? Comes with a one year warranty, so it seems pretty good for $900.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 07:37
|
|
|
The Swinemaster posted:Question about a 2002 Ford Focus ZTS with the DOHC engine, 180,000 km. I bought this car last week, and on Saturday the cooling system blew, dropping 3 litres on the highway and needing a tow to a mechanic. So far, we're $750 in with a water pump and thermostat, with estimated 300 more for a temp sensor since now the fans won't come on. No known issue on the pump, probably just a bad remanufactured unit. For reference my '02 ZX3 is still on its factory pump at just shy of 140,000. Temp sensor probably won't fix the fans, if they have it running ask them to try to turn the A/C on and see what the fans do (should both turn on with the A/C.) I'd put my money on a blown resistor pack on the fan unit itself, bad harness or the fans themselves are shot.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 08:05
|
|
|
TGeoj posted:No known issue on the pump, probably just a bad remanufactured unit. For reference my '02 ZX3 is still on its factory pump at just shy of 140,000. thanks a lot, I'll have them check it that. That's a relief about the pump too.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 15:28
|
|
|
My friend and I are starting a business and he's looking to front 5-6k for a company car. The business is B2B in-person sales for the Orange County/San Diego area so there will be a lot of travel. What are my best options for a car that will reliably do this? I'm 6'2" so I also need something that isn't completely cramped. Good mileage and safety is a plus as well.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 16:48
|
|
|
Armchair Calvinist posted:My friend and I are starting a business and he's looking to front 5-6k for a company car. The business is B2B in-person sales for the Orange County/San Diego area so there will be a lot of travel. Is 5-6K the total cost of the car or are one of you pitching it as well for this to be your vehicle for out of work? If that is the case, how much total are you looking to spend? For 5-6K I'd say get a camry/civic/corolla.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 17:28
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Is 5-6K the total cost of the car or are one of you pitching it as well for this to be your vehicle for out of work? If that is the case, how much total are you looking to spend? It's gonna be 6k total including immediate issues to be addressed with the purchase. I work from home otherwise so it would only be used to drive to and from various businesses, but it will likely tack on around 2000 miles a month.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 18:08
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:In that case, find a small garage (i.e. privately owned, somewhere in between dealer and Miadis) and get them to do it for you. It's pretty rude to to buy your own parts and ask a professional to install them; just let them do their thing. "rude"? Why, because you're doing away with the huge markup every single repair shop adds on to their parts?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 18:08
|
|
|
Armchair Calvinist posted:My friend and I are starting a business and he's looking to front 5-6k for a company car. The business is B2B in-person sales for the Orange County/San Diego area so there will be a lot of travel. Camry. Next.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 19:59
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 20:00
|
|
|
Extra posted:what's the worst that could happen if I "fix" a very slightly bent (e: alloy) wheel with a propane torch and a 4 lb deadblow hammer? I would expect the heat would warp it more and the deadblow wouldn't be enough to beat it back into shape. Let us know!
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 20:25
|
|
|
Armchair Calvinist posted:My friend and I are starting a business and he's looking to front 5-6k for a company car. The business is B2B in-person sales for the Orange County/San Diego area so there will be a lot of travel. Have you considered a Miata?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 20:40
|
|
|
To preface: I am very anti-dealership when it comes to repairs/service. BUT, as previously stated I need a timing belt/water pump done on the 5VZ-FE 2000 4Runner. The dealership is 50$ cheaper than the local Toyota/Lexus shop. Normally I would be all over the specialty garage, but are high acuity repairs generally a safer bet with the dealership? Or should I just eat the cost and make it happen with the specialty place? E: For the record, I hate myself for considering this--considering how much I hate the dealership. Just wondering if it's worth considering. Or talk me out of it, please. LeeMajors fucked around with this message at 21:40 on May 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 21:23
|
|
|
Sigma X posted:"rude"? Why, because you're doing away with the huge markup every single repair shop adds on to their parts? Would you bring your own food to a restaurant? If you go to a shop and get your rotors replaced, and one of those rotors has a casting defect and it cracks after a week, the shop will take care of it and work with their supplier to make it right. If you bring in your own rotors that you got for $$CHEAP$$ on eBay that are made of the cheapest baby-formula-grade pressed lead possible and the shop installs them, the shop owner is going to have to put up with your angry Yelp tirade when something inevitably breaks and you blame them.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 21:35
|
|
|
LeeMajors posted:To preface: I am very anti-dealership when it comes to repairs/service. I'd take it to the dealer.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 22:01
|
|
|
LeeMajors posted:To preface: I am very anti-dealership when it comes to repairs/service. I'd take it to the place that gives you less of a headache. Timing belt on a 5VZ isn't exactly rocket surgery.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 23:19
|
|
|
LeeMajors posted:To preface: I am very anti-dealership when it comes to repairs/service. It really just depends. You can't blankly state all dealerships are bad and all independent shops are good...Best you can do is ask around for recommendations. Yelp (although it doesn't divide between service & sales, you have to read carefully), Toyota forums, even ask here if someone has experience with a particular shop.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 23:22
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Would you bring your own food to a restaurant? You didn't address my issue about 200% markup mechanic parts prices. When a shop charges $150/hr for labor and the literally-exact-same part I order on Rockauto for $82 costs $414 at a mechanic (EDIT: This is not hyperbole, or hypothetical), my response is usually something like "go gently caress yourself, guy". Now THAT'S rude. When I take my car to the shop, it's to pay for expertise of the mechanic. And I don't know what you're talking about for a mechanic's "warranty", because I've never seen the Bobby McGee repair shop warranty amount to anything but a pile of cheap words. The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2015 23:50
|
|
|
I'm a moron who knows nothing about cars, but here is my deal: 2003 Mazda 6, 114k miles that I bought two years ago needs new brakes. There's a quiet grinding noise when I stop, and the dealer (don't kill me) said my brakes were at a '3 or a 4' (millimeters? what?) I take the car in today and get a phone call back saying that my brake calipers are rusted and seizing up, and that my discs need to be replaced as well. Visually, my brakes are indeed very rusty, as I live in New England, but the actual brake caliper-touching part of the disc is a shiny, clean piece of metal. They are giving me a price of $1600 to replace all four discs and calipers  THEN they tell me that my transmission is about to go, because the man who drove my car around the block said that my clutch was going, "He was pressing the clutch all the way down and said it didn't want to go into gear". And admittedly this is something that is happening, but the drat thing shifts just fine in my opinion. And a new transmission is $2000  As I am a broke-rear end grad student who doesn't just have $4k lying around, what are my options? Is there anything that a hamfisted moron like myself can do in terms of fixing it on my own? How big of a ripoff is that price?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 00:00
|
|
|
LeeMajors posted:To preface: I am very anti-dealership when it comes to repairs/service. I'd go to the specialty place, honestly. When you think about it, the dealer can do poo poo work all day every day, racking up an 80% comeback rate, and they'll still be there in the morning because they are backed by [insert manufacturer here] and on top of that, are the only place anyone who needs warranty / recall work performed can go when needed. They are also the default car fixit place for people who don't know poo poo about cars and think that it'll explode if they don't go to the FACTORY CERTIFIED OFFICIAL [BRAND] MECHANIC. No matter how badly they cock things up, there'll always be a waiting list of customers (to a point of course - if they're TREMENDOUSLY lovely, I'm sure Corporate would start getting involved). Source - I worked at a Chevy dealership for a summer in college. I was only a lowly service porter, but saw some poo poo during my time there. If the specialty shop operated this way, they'd be gone in a week. In other words, they rely on positive reviews / word-of-mouth advertising from happy customers to keep their doors open. They are also less likely to charge $assrape prices for parts / hourly labor.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 00:14
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 00:21
|
|
|
Yousomuscle posted:I'm a moron who knows nothing about cars, but here is my deal: Take it somewhere else. I don't think you can see if a caliper is seizing up visually. You'll get more wear on that corner (or less, I guess, if it seizes in the open position). You can drive the car some, brake hard a few times, and check the temperature of the brakes. If one is hotter (or colder) than the others, then it's seized and dragging. It would be really unlikely that all four would seize at the same time, especially since then it would be really hard to move the car or stop! Also, you don't need a new transmission if your clutch is going out (!!!). You would just get the clutch replaced. gently caress those guys.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 00:23
|
|
|
The Swinemaster posted:Question about a 2002 Ford Focus ZTS with the DOHC engine, 180,000 km. I bought this car last week, and on Saturday the cooling system blew, dropping 3 litres on the highway and needing a tow to a mechanic. So far, we're $750 in with a water pump and thermostat, with estimated 300 more for a temp sensor since now the fans won't come on. So evidently at some point the resistor was cut out of the cooling system with the wires just reconnected without it. My mechanic described it as a "hack job". Due to this, the fans weren't working reliably and it also blew the 30 amp fuse, and possibly the screwed up the pcm. 
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 01:49
|
|
|
^ That's why I generally steer people away from a used MkI Focus unless you can confirm it's been owned most/all of its life by someone above the age of 25. It was bad back when I got mine in 2004, I can't imagine what the used market is like now. Sigma X posted:You didn't address my issue about 200% markup mechanic parts prices. When a shop charges $150/hr for labor and the literally-exact-same part I order on Rockauto for $82 costs $414 at a mechanic (EDIT: This is not hyperbole, or hypothetical), my response is usually something like "go gently caress yourself, guy". Now THAT'S rude. When I take my car to the shop, it's to pay for expertise of the mechanic. And I don't know what you're talking about for a mechanic's "warranty", because I've never seen the Bobby McGee repair shop warranty amount to anything but a pile of cheap words. I'd find another shop that either doesn't have such a high markup or is OK with you supplying your own parts. Otherwise do it yourself if you only want to pay the price on rockauto, pretty much every shop is going to charge a markup on parts. Geoj fucked around with this message at 07:24 on May 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 02:02
|
|
|
Vehicle: 2001 GMC Jimmy RWD. ~135k miles Was going through a parking lot yesterday, went over a speedbump kind of fast, nothing scrapped the ground. About 30 seconds later at a stoplight turning left, light turned green and my car shut off. Wouldn't let me accelerate. Electrical was still working in the car (new battery about a month ago). Trying to restart the car, it's cranking but it's shaking violently when I try and start it. Pushed it over to the side of the road. Called a friend who brought 2 gallons of gas with him just in case, but still no luck. It's not throwing any error codes. I can post video if that will help of me trying to start it, but I honestly have no idea what it could be. Any ideas? My only idea is something came undone when i went over the speedbump but nothing looked out of the ordinary. Thanks
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 02:10
|
|
|
Sigma X posted:You didn't address my issue about 200% markup mechanic parts prices. When a shop charges $150/hr for labor and the literally-exact-same part I order on Rockauto for $82 costs $414 at a mechanic (EDIT: This is not hyperbole, or hypothetical), my response is usually something like "go gently caress yourself, guy". Now THAT'S rude. When I take my car to the shop, it's to pay for expertise of the mechanic. And I don't know what you're talking about for a mechanic's "warranty", because I've never seen the Bobby McGee repair shop warranty amount to anything but a pile of cheap words. Eh, whatev dude. I thought Dr.Pain's thread was pretty informative w/r/t bringing your own parts to the mechanic, but what you do with your favorite shop is your business.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 04:16
|
|
|
Extra posted:what's the worst that could happen if I "fix" a very slightly bent (e: alloy) wheel with a propane torch and a 4 lb deadblow hammer? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uScd7nFzfQE
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 04:33
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 04:36
|
|
|
ChewedFood posted:Has anyone here used one of those used engine importers that has a lot of low mileage imported Japanese motors because of forced obsolescence? Comes with a one year warranty, so it seems pretty good for $900. Yup. Every bearing in the engine was trash, as were the crank, cams, block, head, and manifolds. I think the only things not severely damaged inside the engine were the pistons. The spark plugs showed signs of piston and head sexy time, and until that day, I never knew K&N licensed anyone to put their logo on spark plugs. Transaxle wound up being fine, but that wound up being one hell of an expensive transaxle once we realized "welp, paid for a full drivetrain, only actual usable parts are the transaxle and ECU". Japan doesn't actually put a mileage cap on cars or engines. They do make it a bit more expensive to own an older vehicle (as cars are exempt from inspections for a couple of years, I think?), but there's nothing on the books saying "OMFG YOU HAVE TO SWAP YOUR ENGINE EVERY 30K MILES OR THE WHALES AND ALL YOUR CHILDREN WILL DIE!!1!1@!#$ IN A FIRE" (even if there was, why would it be in miles? That's 48280 km). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:15 on May 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 05:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:05 |
|
|
I have a 2007 VW GTi and there is a 5-6 mph difference between the speed shown on my speedometer and how fast my Waze app (iPhone navigation app) says I'm going. My question is this: which measurement is most accurate/trustworthy? The Waze app tells me I'm doing 65 but my car speedometer tells me I'm going 70. The difference is only noticeable after about 45-50 mph. At slower speeds both measurements match up. Anyone with any experience with this? I realize there are many factors that could influence the accuracy of either instrument but I use my iPhone navigation all the time and it's making me doubt my in-car gauges.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2015 06:23
|
|
