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Does Waze use GPS to determine speed? If so, if you're standing still does it read zero and/or do you ever have issues in navigation with your location bouncing around or the pip turning into a large circle (meaning the GPS receiver doesn't have a solid lock and is only estimating your location within X meters)? Assuming you don't have GPS problems I'd trust the app more than your car's speedometer. I'd check and see what size tires the car shipped from the factory with vs. what is equipped now, if the overall diameter of the wheel & tire is different it will cause the speedometer to be off.
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May 21, 2015 06:32
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Also, most manufacturers set their speedos to read a bit high, so that you'll go a little slower than you think, rather than a little faster (which is good for them from a liability standpoint). 8% seems a bit high for a modern car, but maybe it's not.
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May 21, 2015 06:39
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Slavvy posted:Camry. Next. Yeah, been looking at lots of Camrys but I'm not sure of the best year/generation to pursue. All of them? Are the manuals any good too?
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May 21, 2015 07:18
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V6 only came with a manual up to 2001, so if you want power and reliability that's out (they're still 15-year old cars by now, remember, Toyota or no), 4-banger was available up to 2011. Manuals were discontinued in both cases due to low take rate, though, so you'll have to hunt around to find one at all, let alone one you'd wanna drive every day. And honestly, for the 4-cylinder you'd probably want for fuel economy, the manual's probably not worth it. The economy gains are negligible and a car like that really isn't fun no matter how you select your gears, and for a city commuter you'd probably want an auto anyway just for convenience's sake.
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May 21, 2015 07:57
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I'd get a 30 series, there was a marked drop in quality when they went to the 40 series. The 2AZ 4 cylinder is always a solid choice and it's mated to a very rugged, albeit somewhat agricultural 4 speed auto. That being said, the 40 series has the 3.5 2GR-FE. It has monster power and is very smooth but isn't as bulletproof as the toyotas of yore. They're still good and last forever if they're treated right so if you find one with low-ish mileage you're set. They also come with a super slick (by toyota standards) 6 speed auto that makes the fuel economy not much worse than the 4 cylinder. The manual trans mated to the 2AZ sucks and is somewhat fragile, plus throttle response and clutch feel are absolutely ghastly so I'd try to avoid that if possible. All generations handle like river barges and are completely incapable of putting down what power they have but hey, it's a work vehicle. "Driving fun" shouldn't even be on your radar; you want to shop based on reliability, economy, servicing costs and commonality. Camry ticks every box. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:38 on May 21, 2015 |
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May 21, 2015 08:35
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eriddy posted:I have a 2007 VW GTi and there is a 5-6 mph difference between the speed shown on my speedometer and how fast my Waze app (iPhone navigation app) says I'm going. My car is like that too, and I only discovered it after I got a GPS as a gift (it started to make sense why everyone was passing me when I thought I was already speeding) In order to confirm the accuracy of the GPS, you'll need a long stretch of road on a clear day and the ability to go a constant speed. Cruise control helps. If you travel half a mile at speedo 70 and the GPS speed is constant, it is reading accurately. Though really I'd just trust it anyway since its been a long time since GPS was unreliable speed-wise. Alternatively you could confirm with a second unit.
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May 21, 2015 13:30
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Raluek posted:Also, most manufacturers set their speedos to read a bit high, so that you'll go a little slower than you think, rather than a little faster (which is good for them from a liability standpoint). 8% seems a bit high for a modern car, but maybe it's not. 8% high is what my '06 and '09 3 series read, along with my Dad's '07 and '14. My motorcycle is more like 12% high (thanks Yamaha). I thought I read somewhere this was expected with European cars due to the liability issue if they ever under reported the speed. In some sense, it's kind of nice, because you can think you're doing 80, but really be doing 74 and be unlikely to get pulled over! I noticed it because I thought my commute was taking longer at the "same speed" when I changed from an older Celica to the '06. Turns out, it was, which kind of weirded me out.
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May 21, 2015 14:13
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eriddy posted:I have a 2007 VW GTi and there is a 5-6 mph difference between the speed shown on my speedometer and how fast my Waze app (iPhone navigation app) says I'm going. My 07 GTI also reads ~5% high. Also, the fuel economy reading in the MFD and the speed it shows when you set the speed warning are both ~5% high. The distance traveled and, weirdly, the average speed readings in the MFD seem correct.
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May 21, 2015 16:42
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How hard is it to install a Pop & Lock tailgate lock? As someone who is mechanically illiterate this terrifies me: http://www.popandlock.net/download/PL2310.pdf.b9b653c408f8a67a146c767946ccb5c4 Also I keep seeing reviews saying that it sucks and likes to jam but then counter reviews saying that only happens if it is installed incorrectly (a very real concern for me) - what do I believe?
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May 21, 2015 16:45
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My 07 GTI has the same problem. Can we vagcom this?
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May 21, 2015 16:45
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VelociBacon posted:My 07 GTI has the same problem. Can we vagcom this? I think so? http://www.my-gti.com/140/volkswagen-speedometer-error-correction Can I borrow a VAG-COM???
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May 21, 2015 16:54
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Raluek posted:Also, most manufacturers set their speedos to read a bit high, so that you'll go a little slower than you think, rather than a little faster (which is good for them from a liability standpoint). 8% seems a bit high for a modern car, but maybe it's not. Can both confirm and deny this. Every Honda I've owned since getting a smartphone reads high - up to 7-8 mph at highway speeds. My Nissan read about 3-4 mph high. Toyotas and GMs I've driven seem to be dead on accurate; if anything, the speedometer in my Ion reads slightly low (by just a touch).
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May 21, 2015 17:01
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If you code BMWs you can change whether the speedo displays actual speed or optimistic speed.
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May 21, 2015 17:19
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Heh, vag-com
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May 21, 2015 17:22
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Thanks for the info, guys. Appreciate it! I'll be looking into an '03-'06 automatic I4 Camry then. There's also http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5005009272.html this down the street (literally) from me and I've heard good things about the generation from 92-96 and it leaves a lot of room for maintenance costs. Opinions?
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May 21, 2015 18:42
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Those are basically completely indestructible and if Mad Max was realistic everyone would be rolling around in a 90's toyota. The only thing to watch out for is the u-shaped coolant transfer pipe that runs around the engine from the water pump, under the exhaust manifold and around the back of the head. If the car hasn't had coolant in it for a decade, these tend to spring leaks but toyota eventually switched to making them out of stainless steel so it might not be a problem. Replacement is easy at any rate. The radiator hoses may also be rotten but there's like six generic sized hoses on the car and it takes about an hour to replace all of them, so no big deal compared to an old volvo. Can't think of anything else. Once in a blue moon they can crack heads across to one of the plug holes and start leaking water in there, but I've seen that first-hand only once, and that was a 2.0 3SFE.
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May 21, 2015 20:42
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I have a buddy who had a 96, he bought it with like 130k and I think he put another 200k on it before retiring it. My parents have an 07 camry hybrid that has around 150k on it and besides oil, gas, and tires, the only money they have put into it was getting the batteries rebuilt at around 130k. Car still drives beautifully too. Its a total barge compared to those 90s cars though.
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May 22, 2015 00:01
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Thanks guys.  I think a $2000 Camry from the 90s is the way to go for this venture. If this company gig takes off I might end up buying it from him and using it until the engine blows up ~20 years later.
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May 22, 2015 01:30
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Thanks for the info, guys. Appreciate it! I'll be looking into an '03-'06 automatic I4 Camry then. There's also http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5005009272.html this down the street (literally) from me and I've heard good things about the generation from 92-96 and it leaves a lot of room for maintenance costs. Opinions? Buy this car. I had a 97 4cyl that I bought with 77k on it, rolled another 140k without giving much thought to OCIs or any routine maintenance with no issues whatsoever. Put several thousand-mile road trips on it. All in about 6 years. They are tanks.
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May 22, 2015 02:28
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Thanks for the info, guys. Appreciate it! I'll be looking into an '03-'06 automatic I4 Camry then. There's also http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5005009272.html this down the street (literally) from me and I've heard good things about the generation from 92-96 and it leaves a lot of room for maintenance costs. Opinions? I bought a 1996 Camry with 262k miles on it over two years ago for $2,000. I've had to replace the brake master cylinder. That's it.
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May 22, 2015 03:08
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Thanks guys. Bonus points for finding a Camry wagon.
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May 22, 2015 05:40
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BlackMK4 posted:Bonus points for finding a Camry wagon.  Dual rear wipers.
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May 22, 2015 09:00
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I've got a 2011 Hyundai Sonata, and the Bluetooth mic seems to not be working. It works for playing music or using maps, and when someone calls me I can hear them perfectly fine, but they can't hear me. I've tried re-adding my phone to the car, but the first thing it asks me to do is to provide a name...which it can't hear, so it cancels the process. If I'm right and it's the mic, what kind of approximate cost am I looking at to get it fixed?
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May 22, 2015 15:09
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LeeMajors posted:Buy this car. I had a 97 4cyl that I bought with 77k on it, rolled another 140k without giving much thought to OCIs or any routine maintenance with no issues whatsoever. Put several thousand-mile road trips on it. All in about 6 years. They are tanks. The only thing that i have seen kill those mid 90's Toyotas is the tin worm. And if I do ever see one in the yards, they are stripped to the shell... and if the shell is clean, I have seen people chopping parts off the shell to hack together their own jalopy.
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May 22, 2015 15:12
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jackpot posted:I've got a 2011 Hyundai Sonata, and the Bluetooth mic seems to not be working. It works for playing music or using maps, and when someone calls me I can hear them perfectly fine, but they can't hear me. I've tried re-adding my phone to the car, but the first thing it asks me to do is to provide a name...which it can't hear, so it cancels the process. If I'm right and it's the mic, what kind of approximate cost am I looking at to get it fixed? Do you have another phone you could test with?
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May 22, 2015 16:59
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The Mandingo posted:My father-in-law died a few weeks ago and I have his 2000 Lexus RX 300 sitting in my garage airing out from all the cigarettes he smoked in it. We're going to try and sell it and I'm trying to decide how much work to put into it before we do. It has about 134,000 miles on it, before I drove it back home I had to put 3 quarts of oil in it since it was very low. He was not much for keeping up with maintenance. some texas redneck posted:System too lean is either a vacuum leak, a leak in the intake tube behind the MAF, or a fuel system issue. Since it cut out on you a couple of times, I'd be leaning more toward a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Update on the Lexus! I used the guy that some texas redneck referred me to, he's great. I'd recommend him to anyone in north Dallas with a Japanese import. MAF sensor was dirty due to the other engine issues, he cleaned it up and no more faults. Wiring harness was in good shape. Both knock sensors were bad, and replaced at $200 each. He said that the valves were really sludgy when he took the covers off - didn't get a picture though (I asked after the fact) but he did take a picture of the pan after he took it off to clean some of the sludge that fell down into it. New spark plugs and wires. Found a new back seat and had it installed for $350ish. I turned down the timing belt and a full brake job. Both of those things I'd do if this was a daily driver for me, but it's a third vehicle that we're just going to sell. I'll tell the buyer to get them done. Total cost of all repairs is just over $1700. Next step is to rent an ozone machine to clean out the smoke smell.
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May 22, 2015 17:44
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Slavvy posted:
I would buy/drive one of those this very second. It's the perfect car. I wish they made a legit Corolla wagon still. The Matrix is goofy as gently caress. BrokenKnucklez posted:The only thing that i have seen kill those mid 90's Toyotas is the tin worm. And if I do ever see one in the yards, they are stripped to the shell... and if the shell is clean, I have seen people chopping parts off the shell to hack together their own jalopy. On the rare occasion I find a 3rd gen 4Runner in the local pick-your-part lot, it is stripped to the frame within a day or two of its arrival.
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May 22, 2015 18:50
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LeeMajors posted:I would buy/drive one of those this very second. It's the perfect car.  Glorious nippon provides manna for all. Available with hand-cranked windows and no AC, have seen several with 400,000km.
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May 22, 2015 21:00
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I asked earlier and I dont think anyone answered, but is it feasible to get a shop to drain my AC system, then I can replace the compressor, then they can refill? Or am I missing something obvious?
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May 22, 2015 21:08
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I imagine it would be on the same level as bringing your own parts in as far as mechanic shop faux pas go. You'd probably be better off just getting a vacuum pump, either from Autozone or Harbor Freight or wherever, and renting a gauge set from AZ.
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May 22, 2015 21:20
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PaintVagrant posted:I asked earlier and I dont think anyone answered, but is it feasible to get a shop to drain my AC system, then I can replace the compressor, then they can refill? Or am I missing something obvious? Yes, you're missing the part where you have no way of pressure testing it and also shouldn't be installing the dryer until RIGHT BEFORE you vac and fill it.
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May 22, 2015 21:25
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GOONS PLEASE HELP. My grandfather bought a cheap backup camera and it's up to me and my father to install it. The camera itself was easy to install. The monitor, however, is proving challenging : There are 3 wires on the monitor. Red 12V 'to vehicle's ignition switch', black Ground, and green. The green wire, according to the instructions, is '12V Reverse Gear Positive Trigger'. I have NO IDEA Where this green wire connects to. Does anyone know what a '12V Reverse Gear Positive Trigger' is??? The vehicle is a 2008 Buick Lacrosse CXL. Here is the camera unit : http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PLCM77...gReverse-Assist The manual is there, but it's 5 pages long and tells me NOTHING.
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May 22, 2015 22:36
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You'll need to take the shifter cover/steering column apart (wherever the shifter is). Somewhere there should be a switch that closes when it's in reverse, which sends power to the reverse lights and/or computer. Tap off the wire that switches and run that to your monitor. Alternately, find a wiring diagram for that car on google, locate the appropriate circuit, and tap off it somewhere in the harness.
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May 22, 2015 22:40
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Probably hooks up to the switch that triggers the reverse lights. Or if the system is massively computer controlled the relay that triggers the reverse lights or the wires leading to them.
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May 22, 2015 22:41
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Or just put a switch somewhere if you want to be able to turn the camera on anytime, instead of having it come on automatically when you shift into reverse.
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May 22, 2015 23:08
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Motronic posted:Yes, you're missing the part where you have no way of pressure testing it and also shouldn't be installing the dryer until RIGHT BEFORE you vac and fill it. I figured as much, good to know.
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May 22, 2015 23:13
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Okay then another question trying to write the monitor to 12vdc, can we rewire the monitor to the fuse box somehow?
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May 22, 2015 23:56
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khy posted:Okay then another question Yeah. If you have some unused spots on the fuse block that you can put a fuse into and use, you can do that. Or use one of those add-a-fuse piggyback adapter things. Pick any circuit that's switched.
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May 23, 2015 00:29
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Cig lighter is a good circuit to pull the 12v from in my experience. It is already fused.
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May 23, 2015 01:40
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Pretty stupid question, but yesterday I replaced my turbo bypass valve after work, and when I got home I popped the hood to make sure everything was still attached and everything. Now I've known that the car has a small oil leak, and I knew it dripped somewhere onto the exhaust based on the lovely trailer trashy oil on exhaust smell that occasionally gets into the cabin, but this is the first time I've actually seen smoke. It wasn't much, but it appeared to be coming off the exhaust right after the cat. Up until this point a small oil leak didn't bother me, but now I'm a bit concerned, and I'm not sure if I should be. My question is: what are the odds that I'm soon to be the owner of the burnt out husk of what once was a Saab?
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May 23, 2015 13:29
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