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Finally got to climb out at JTree this past weekend, and goddamn it felt like I'm learning to climb all over again. Was able to get a bunch of V1's and a few roped routes before my body shut down. I can finally understand why people like crack climbing so much - when there's no other features on a wall except a long crack, jamming a hand and foot in feels so secure it's amazing. It was a 95' route and I didn't even notice I was done until I got to the anchor - too much fun.
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May 18, 2015 22:16
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I am pretty new to rock climbing, just started in February this year. But my friends and I really love it, and we probably go to the rock gym 3-5 times a week, depending on our schedules and stuff. Are there any exercises or things I could do at home/on days I don't climb to help improve? I'm starting to hit some 10Bs  but would like to continue improving. Preferably nothing requiring too much equipment. Thanks!
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May 19, 2015 04:25
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I would suggest that you rest on those days. If you are not leading yet start doing that, top rope sucks.
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May 19, 2015 05:10
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If you refuse to rest on off days, just do core exercises those are really good for climbing and you probably wont hurt yourself doing them
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May 19, 2015 07:00
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spwrozek posted:
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May 19, 2015 15:22
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spwrozek posted:I would suggest that you rest on those days. QFT 
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May 19, 2015 23:55
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Bouldering is a great reality check for me. Started climbing two ish months ago. Can climb all the 5.8's in my gym and about half the 5.9's. I still struggle with some of the v1's and most the v2's (mostly the multi angle stuff, but some really tough holds too)
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May 20, 2015 04:50
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I don't like making GBS threads on toproping because it's still climbing and therefore still fun, but lead really is way cooler. Just make sure that you learn from someone with decent experience when you learn to lead so that you use safe technique!
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May 20, 2015 07:27
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Mahlertov Cocktail posted:I don't like making GBS threads on toproping because it's still climbing and therefore still fun, but lead really is way cooler. Just make sure that you learn from someone with decent experience when you learn to lead so that you use safe technique! Climbing is climbing, if you're going to be elitist about it then anything short of trad is obviously easy mode anyway and everyone should aspire to free solo climbing. Or not because that's super dumb, just climb how you want, learning to lead is something you're almost certainly going to want to do eventually but the guys who act like top roping isn't "real climbing" are usually assholes, or have been doing it for so many years that they've forgotten what it's like to be inexperienced.
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May 20, 2015 08:09
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Here is some levity. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsAiOYXC-k0 Besides we all know ice climbing is the real climbing 
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May 20, 2015 09:25
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RabidWeasel posted:Climbing is climbing, if you're going to be elitist about it then anything short of trad is obviously easy mode anyway and everyone should aspire to free solo climbing. Or not because that's super dumb, just climb how you want, learning to lead is something you're almost certainly going to want to do eventually but the guys who act like top roping isn't "real climbing" are usually assholes, or have been doing it for so many years that they've forgotten what it's like to be inexperienced. Yeah for sure. I had a great time toproping when I was newer to climbing and it's still very fun to do when I'm not able to lead climb.
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May 20, 2015 09:27
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My buddies and I really want to do lead climbing but injuries have kinda held us back lately. So many awesome looking routes that are lead only... Anyone in the atlanta/Chattanooga area know any groups that do outdoor climbing regularly? Want to get outside.
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May 20, 2015 15:00
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Mahlertov Cocktail posted:I don't like making GBS threads on toproping because it's still climbing and therefore still fun, but lead really is way cooler. Just make sure that you learn from someone with decent experience when you learn to lead so that you use safe technique! I highly recommend practicing clipping in all four configurations (outward facing gate left hand, inward facing gate left hand, outward right, inward right). http://www.climbingtechniques.org/clipping-bolts-on-lead.html I actually just set up a QD on the back of one of my dining room chairs and practiced clipping for a few hours every night in front of the teevee.
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May 20, 2015 15:14
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Save me jeebus posted:I highly recommend practicing clipping in all four configurations (outward facing gate left hand, inward facing gate left hand, outward right, inward right). Agreed. I'd add clipping on a free-hanging (not resting on a wall or chair) draw. You'll be surprised how much you rely on having a wall behind the draw to hold it for clipping.
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May 20, 2015 15:53
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RabidWeasel posted:Climbing is climbing, if you're going to be elitist about it then anything short of trad is obviously easy mode anyway and everyone should aspire to free solo climbing. Or not because that's super dumb, just climb how you want, learning to lead is something you're almost certainly going to want to do eventually but the guys who act like top roping isn't "real climbing" are usually assholes, or have been doing it for so many years that they've forgotten what it's like to be inexperienced. I get what you are saying but for me top rope just sucks. The rope is in the way, I get no joy out of the climb, I get lazy with my movement because you don't need to think, you lose the game of route finding and figuring the best clipping stance (I don't trad so I can't comment on that), I just get bored in all honesty. I don't really see this as being elitist by telling him to get leading, it is really about opening up the door to actually climbing outside. I love to lead climb and just want people who climb to find that same joy.
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May 20, 2015 19:13
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That's fine I just think that there's way too much pressure on new climbers to start leading as soon as they possibly can and I think that some of the arguments used are pretty bullshit. Not everyone wants (or is able) to climb outside and clipping into quick draws isn't a critical core part of the climbing experience (whatever the gently caress that means) it's just something which has come to be accepted as a good compromise between freedom of movement and safety. The aggrivation of a top rope in your face or blocking your hands is definitely real but so is the frustration of knowing you could make a move if you didn't have to stop to clip in an awkward spot - I feel like these sorts of things are fairly comparable. I mean I personally prefer good hard bouldering to most climbs because it's just me and the wall, no harness or ropes or anything, the one and only thing you have to think about is making the moves, and that's really what I find most exciting about the sport. I don't care if I'm 2 inches or 200 feet from the ground, except obviously I want something to keep me from becoming man pizza in the latter case 
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May 20, 2015 20:01
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I'm honestly the same feeling but opposite. I'd rather take a fall and be caught by the rope than worry about if the crash pad will be in the right spot. Sport/trad every time. (Except the gym, which is just training anyway.)
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May 21, 2015 00:53
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Speleothing posted:lead trad every time ftfy
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May 21, 2015 06:14
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For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK.
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May 22, 2015 17:47
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Finally got to see Valley Uprising. Good poo poo. RIP Potter.
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May 25, 2015 16:13
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Dutymode posted:For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK. That's all I get currently. I'm so keen to try some outside, and get to lead but with time and gear both at a premium all my friends and I get is 3 hours a week in a gym top roping. So, you know, that's for not making GBS threads on my experience.
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May 26, 2015 10:31
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Megabound posted:That's all I get currently. I'm so keen to try some outside, and get to lead but with time and gear both at a premium all my friends and I get is 3 hours a week in a gym top roping. Are you close to any bouldering? As long as you have shoes, and some chalk in a ziplock, most boulders are perfectly happy to let you crash on their pads. Or at least, I've always welcomed people who wanted to climb and also be safe, and let them climb with me so they have access to a pad.
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May 26, 2015 14:40
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gamera009 posted:Are you close to any bouldering? As long as you have shoes, and some chalk in a ziplock, most boulders are perfectly happy to let you crash on their pads. I've got a few very nice people who want to take me out, but I univeristy Mon-Fri and work every Saturday and about every 3rd Sunday and they almost always have meets on days that aren't copacetic. It'll get better during uni holidays, but right now I'm still having a blast indoors, luckily I'm spoiled for choice with gyms.
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May 26, 2015 14:47
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I live at least 5 hours from any decent outdoor climbing, and I'm too busy for frequent trips as well. When I do go, climbing outdoors for me is more about hanging out with friends and relaxing. I climb much harder indoors - I don't think I've ever had an outdoor project. On top of that, I'm lucky enough to get to set at my bouldering gym. That's a whole other side of climbing that's a lot harder to experience outdoors. Indoor climbing and setting is more convenient and fun for me, but not everyone. Just climb whatever way you like!
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May 26, 2015 18:11
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Dutymode posted:For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK. Sometimes you train 48 weeks to climb outside for 2 days in September. 
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May 31, 2015 00:19
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Speleothing posted:Sometimes you train 48 weeks to climb outside for 2 days in September. WELL WHAT DID YOU DO WITH THOSE OTHER 4 WEEKS?
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May 31, 2015 04:19
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Christmas for two. Rest week before and after the trip.
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May 31, 2015 05:14
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Has anybody climbed pilot mountain in NC? I would like to climb a real thing one day and thats the closest
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Jun 1, 2015 14:07
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Dutymode posted:I live at least 5 hours from any decent outdoor climbing, and I'm too busy for frequent trips as well. When I do go, climbing outdoors for me is more about hanging out with friends and relaxing. I climb much harder indoors - I don't think I've ever had an outdoor project. My worst day doing the lamest climbing when I feel lovely is better than the best day I ever had lifting weights or running half marathons. It also did more to improve my appearance than those things, and did it way faster. Also I'm an old bastard, and the "you are old now" neck and back problems I started having before climbing went away. Climbing owns. 
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Jun 1, 2015 17:55
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So last night while doing a move open handing from a tiny crimp my forearm went all twangy and a pain shot down from my ring finger to my elbow. I went home straight away, but apart from a dull ache for a couple of hours, the pain went away pretty quickly and there was no swelling or redness. This morning, doing pretty much anything with it feels ok, as long as my pinky is either fully engaged or out straight - anything else and any tension on the tip of my ring finger really hurts deep in my forearm. I'm off to the docs to get it looked at, but does anyone else have experience with this?
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Jun 1, 2015 20:28
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The IFSC bouldering world cup started off in Toronto this past Friday. They're pretty good about getting the replays up quickly so you can https://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel/videos Typically you can watch them live as well at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:09
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Dutymode posted:The IFSC bouldering world cup started off in Toronto this past Friday. They're pretty good about getting the replays up quickly so you can If anyone is in CO I will be up in Vail for the semi-finals and finals next Saturday. Let me know and say hi if you are there.
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Jun 1, 2015 21:41
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delete
Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 21:53
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toiletbrush posted:So last night while doing a move open handing from a tiny crimp my forearm went all twangy and a pain shot down from my ring finger to my elbow. I went home straight away, but apart from a dull ache for a couple of hours, the pain went away pretty quickly and there was no swelling or redness. This morning, doing pretty much anything with it feels ok, as long as my pinky is either fully engaged or out straight - anything else and any tension on the tip of my ring finger really hurts deep in my forearm. I'm off to the docs to get it looked at, but does anyone else have experience with this? Flexor unit strain (tendons in your forearm controlling finger flexion). You should be able to climb more or less normally, maybe after a few days off and some ibuprofen, just avoiding any open handing with your pinky dropped (front 3 or middle 2). I'd suggest taping your ring finger and pinky together to stop your pinky moving into a dropped position, but crimping should still be fine. Unfortunately, they take loving ages to heal. I did the same thing maybe a couple of years ago, and am only just feeling confident enough to pull on pockets with my middle 2.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:59
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sean10mm posted:
'Sean10mm's starting strength' right here folks. sean10mm posted:Climbing owns. But very very true.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:56
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crazycello posted:'Sean10mm's starting strength' right here folks. Huh?  e: I know I posted about newbie weight routines like 7-8 years ago, but I didn't expect a historic  over it in 2015?
sean10mm fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 18:31
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Still B.A.E posted:You should be able to climb more or less normally, maybe after a few days off and some ibuprofen, just avoiding any open handing with your pinky dropped (front 3 or middle 2). I'd suggest taping your ring finger and pinky together to stop your pinky moving into a dropped position, but crimping should still be fine. quote:Unfortunately, they take loving ages to heal. I did the same thing maybe a couple of years ago, and am only just feeling confident enough to pull on pockets with my middle 2. toiletbrush fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 12:36
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I'm not so sure on the mechanics of it myself, but I generally found that pinky in line with ring finger = fine. Obviously go by feel, if you get that uncomfortable pulling feeling from your ring finger at any point, hold the hold in a different way or go and do something else.
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Jun 3, 2015 15:54
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It feels like a while ago that I barely climbed a 5.8 for the first time. finally it feels like I can make it up most 5.8 that are put up. I think for the first time I can start looking for some 5.9 to start working into.
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Jun 4, 2015 07:24
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Finally getting comfortable with a good number of the v3s currently set at my gym. Even snagged a crimpy slab v4 that was pretty fun. And then, for some reason, there are v2s around that I just. can't. get. 
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Jun 4, 2015 07:59
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