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Clean the throttle body and Idle Speed Control Valve?
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May 26, 2015 16:18
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AFM would be my guess, if you have a known good one swap them out and see what happens.
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May 26, 2015 16:20
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I'd also guess AFM.
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May 26, 2015 16:27
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leica posted:There is a seal between the hood and cowl that's supposed to stop the hot air from coming in but it doesn't work very well when it's new. I replaced mine with a new one and it helped but didn't eliminate it. This has been riding around in my trunk for awhile: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-8-in-x-20-ft-Caulk-Saver-C21H/100067266 Supposedly you can use talc powder and a flexible cable to thread it through the hole in the cowl seal to stiffen the seal up to work better. I haven't gotten to it yet, so can't comment on effectiveness. For some reason I bought the 1/2 inch stuff, but the 3/8 might work (better) too. Or not (measure twice, cut once). Disclaimer: YMMV. eta: I did do the shift boot/lube R&R and that removed a lot of heat coming from the shifter. eta 2: 2001 NB. Otteration fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 26, 2015 |
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May 26, 2015 19:29
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So looks like I am in the market for a new Miata! Too bad everyone else is right now that warm weather is upon us  Looking for a '94-'97 if anyone has leads.
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May 26, 2015 20:33
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Atomizer posted:Your car might very well be on fire like Rhyno said. Did you remember to check it for fires before finalizing the purchase? No one ever remembers to check for fire!
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May 27, 2015 00:05
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I would take a look at the cam timing, or the crank trigger wheel or sensor not being in the right spot. My NB had some weird stumbles after replacing the timing belt and things where not in the right spot.
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May 27, 2015 03:21
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rowebot44 posted:I would take a look at the cam timing, or the crank trigger wheel or sensor not being in the right spot. My NB had some weird stumbles after replacing the timing belt and things where not in the right spot. Good call, my buddy advanced the timing today and it seems to be getting better.
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May 27, 2015 03:28
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Some idiot tried to race my NA off the light and I indulged him for comedy's sake. It was an H3. I won. Most unlikely vehicle match ever.
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May 27, 2015 03:56
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I beat a v6 F-150 once...
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May 28, 2015 02:12
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You guys don't accelerate at WOT from every stoplight? Maybe that's why I get sub 20 MPG.
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May 28, 2015 02:32
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I feel like there is only a very slight difference in acceleration between 25% throttle and 100%. I dont know if this is symptomatic of an issue
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May 28, 2015 04:57
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 Woohoo! After what started as me foolishly thinking I could change my shocks in a day... They're now changed a week later! Replaced the 160k mile stock showas with oem replacement Sensens. The ride is so much better. Ride height is also a bit higher but oh well.
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May 28, 2015 08:06
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Otteration posted:This has been riding around in my trunk for awhile: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-8-in-x-20-ft-Caulk-Saver-C21H/100067266 Have done this to two Miatas, didn't seem to make much of a difference to either one.
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May 28, 2015 08:09
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Rhyno posted:Well with the MS6 if you replace the BOSE poo poo you lose all your steering wheel controls and the adapter is stupid expensive. Now the NC only has radio controls on the wheel but I use those primarily right now. I installed a line in to the head unit but the sound quality is kind of crappy. I'm hoping to give the car some minor overhauls over this winter and since I'll have the interior out I want to upgrade the speakers and stereo. Might even toss in some sound deadener. If you have climate control make sure you don't need a special adapter to keep that LCD working. With the 3 the way the display integrated with the stereo changed and I think earlier cars are harder to upgrade if you have climate control. Worth finding out on the Miata obviously. I noticed the Metra harnesses don't have the wires for the steering wheel controls or LCD but the steering wheel adapter probably takes care of that.
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May 28, 2015 12:20
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ND Rumor Mill time: There's an embargo on articles that's being lifted on Monday, June 1, expect all of the publications to have a write up as to how the US spec 2.0L drives. The one to look out for is Grassroots Motorsports, they did some A/B testing with a C Street NC (national level, I think?) and the Grand Touring ND press car (note: doesn't have an LSD); they bought wheels and brand new 225mm wide BFG Rival S for both cars. Also happening on Monday is that dealers will be able to place orders for customer cars. Apparently the window is either May 28 or June 1 through June 3. Mark Booth has been looking at shipping trackers and is trying to follow ships that are leaving Hiroshima and arriving in any of the three ports on the west coast. A lot of people are being optimistic about the car being available in either late June or early July. There was also a giant tech doc posted (in Japanese) that went over a bunch of small details and has graphs and stuff. Things like graphing jerk of the 1.5L versus the MZR powerplant and measuring the same amount of nose dive under braking in the front, but a 10% reduction or so of lift in the rear. The option list was posted, but there's a Japanese site with all of the options and associated prices. The "Tunnel Under Bar" is a butterfly brace and the "Lower Arm Bar" is another piece of metal that ties the chassis together. Link to the technical review: http://www.mazda.com/ja/innovation/technology/gihou/2015/ Good stuff starts around Page 90 Link to the ND Accessory catalog: http://www2.mazda.co.jp/accessories/roadster/new_item/?link_id=rs4news Phone fucked around with this message at 15:38 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 15:32
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You're budgeting for the braces right? This car is going to be the poo poo, I'm completely against having car payments but god dammit I want one. I want one of those trunk trays for my NA 
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May 28, 2015 16:28
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Greddy NA turbo / 110k miles. Runs great - A/C just broke  . Any thoughts on value? Body is straight but it's been repainted. I'm thinking if I got 3k I'd be happy. Have a hardtop I could sell separately.
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May 28, 2015 16:33
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leica posted:You're budgeting for the braces right? This car is going to be the poo poo, I'm completely against having car payments but god dammit I want one. Maybe. I doubt they'll be legal for autocross, but I'll probably pick them up seeing how Mazdaspeed branded parts are of good quality and usually wind up being rare (like the steering wheels). Someone took a bunch of photos of a meet-up in DC, this one shows that the infotainment screen isn't some dangerous thing that Mazda haphazardly slapped onto the dash: 
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May 28, 2015 16:38
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I would have been much happier if they would just project the nav onto the windshield like the speedo nav in the Mazda 3 but I guess that has a ton of usability concerns. Underbody bracing like that will probably kick you out of stock class but it's probably not that bad.
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May 28, 2015 16:44
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Partial Octopus: I paid attention to mine when I drove it yesterday, and it was shockingly cool around the shifter area. It wasn't a particularly hot day out, but there was really no detectable heat whatsoever. Contrast that with the engine compartment, which is a completely different story. This is a weird car.   MattD1zzl3 posted:Heat from the radio? Maybe you listen to nonstop This is literally me IRL. What can I say, at least it sounds good on the OEM "Bose" (  ) system.Rhyno posted:No one ever remembers to check for fire! I initially thought my MSM was on fire but it turned out that it's just orange (literally "Lava Orange Mica") as gently caress.  (Orange is the fastest color btw.  )Boogalo posted:You guys don't accelerate at WOT from every stoplight? I do this and I still get ~25 mpg. I'm even apparently getting slightly better mileage after the wheel swap. MattD1zzl3 posted:I feel like there is only a very slight difference in acceleration between 25% throttle and 100%. I dont know if this is symptomatic of an issue It sounds like it might be symptomatic of something but with no further information it'll be impossible to tell. Acceleration will be affected not just by throttle position but also engine speed and gear, and since you didn't mention any of those details we can't really tell what's going on. Just keep in mind that the Miata motors are not exactly powerhouses, and you're not going to be accelerating much at 25 or 100% throttle even in first gear at 1000 rpm; it'll get off the line pretty quickly but won't start making much power until like 5k RPM (or whatever you define as "power" for a car that's probably making 100 rwhp.) The Miata is definitely more responsive at higher engine RPM (and it's even more pronounced in the MSM when the turbo kicks in.) If anything, you can hook up to the car's OBD system and log data (RPM, speed, throttle position, etc.) to analyze later. You can even get a BT adapter and software for your smartphone which you could potentially observe in realtime, if not just wire it up to a laptop and collect data for post-analysis. Seat Safety Switch posted:I would have been much happier if they would just project the nav onto the windshield like the speedo nav in the Mazda 3 but I guess that has a ton of usability concerns. There are some interesting aftermarket HUDs coming out (hopefully this year) like Navdy or SenseHud that do the projected display thing. If/when they finally come out I'll let you know how well they work!
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May 28, 2015 18:03
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Atomizer posted:It sounds like it might be symptomatic of something but with no further information it'll be impossible to tell. Acceleration will be affected not just by throttle position but also engine speed and gear, and since you didn't mention any of those details we can't really tell what's going on. Just keep in mind that the Miata motors are not exactly powerhouses, and you're not going to be accelerating much at 25 or 100% throttle even in first gear at 1000 rpm; it'll get off the line pretty quickly but won't start making much power until like 5k RPM (or whatever you define as "power" for a car that's probably making 100 rwhp.) The Miata is definitely more responsive at higher engine RPM (and it's even more pronounced in the MSM when the turbo kicks in.) I didnt point out a specific condition becuase this is just something i've noticed at all RPMS in all gears over 3 years and 60,000 miles. Its a distinct feeling of the car accelerating just as hard at 25% throttle as 100%. Distinct feelings aren't really diagnoseable so i just thought i'd throw it out there. I didnt notice the same thing with a 2003 LS and 2010 GT. Edit: It doesnt feel like a lack of power, I'm happy with how hard the car pulls at quarter throttle and have no problems merging onto the freeway or going as fast as 80 comfortably, it just doesnt pull harder after that. Something to do with the throttle cable or pully maybe? MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 19:51 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 19:44
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I didnt point out a specific condition becuase this is just something i've noticed at all RPMS in all gears over 3 years and 60,000 miles. Its a distinct feeling of the car accelerating just as hard at 25% throttle as 100%. Distinct feelings aren't really diagnoseable so i just thought i'd throw it out there. I didnt notice the same thing with a 2003 LS and 2010 GT. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerk_%28physics%29
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May 28, 2015 19:57
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I didnt point out a specific condition becuase this is just something i've noticed at all RPMS in all gears over 3 years and 60,000 miles. Its a distinct feeling of the car accelerating just as hard at 25% throttle as 100%. Distinct feelings aren't really diagnoseable so i just thought i'd throw it out there. I didnt notice the same thing with a 2003 LS and 2010 GT. As Phone posted, it's probably just a perception thing rather than an actual throttle issue, especially if you're not actually noticing hesitation or something else obviously wrong. Throttle position is reported over the OBD interface, so you could indeed confirm this via software as described in my last post (e.g., a cheap $20-30 BT adapter* plus Torque Lite on the Google Play store.) In general though, more comprehensive data logging and analysis would help you confirm or reject any hypotheses of acceleration/hesitation/throttle issues. *I can confirm this works: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MPZ9VC ...and would recommend adding this so the adapter doesn't get in the way of your leg if you want to leave it connected while the car is running: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PAHHWM ...but there may be smaller/newer units in the few years since I've made the above purchases. My equipment still works so I've had no reason to replace it yet.
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May 28, 2015 20:07
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I have all that stuff already so i'll give it a test. Its more a personal automotive mystery than a big issue. The real weird part was how it wasnt just accelerating from a stop, but something i noticed at 0, 30 and 60 alike. I will look into it more thanks. Edit: Mystery possibly solved, my other two miatas had VVT and/or VICS. Maybe i'm expecting a shift in cam profile or noticing its absence without realizing it until now. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 20:19 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 20:17
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All these years and we are still using the Butt Dyno™.
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May 28, 2015 20:33
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I suppose that could have something to do with it, but can't offer any help there as neither of my Miatas had/has VVT.
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May 29, 2015 00:29
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Nocheez posted:All these years and we are still using the Butt Dyno™.
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May 29, 2015 06:31
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Gimmicky as hell? Yes. Neat as hell? Yes. http://www.autoblog.com/2015/05/28/2016-mazda-mx5-miata-weight-distribution-video/?ncid=edlinkusauto00000016
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May 29, 2015 08:06
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blk posted:Gimmicky as hell? Yes. "Great engineering defies them", does that make sense? Am I just tired or did they mean defines?
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May 29, 2015 09:02
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Without the caption, I would not have recognized that as Dave Coleman.
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May 29, 2015 13:06
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Dave Coleman is awesome. I mean, he's nuts, but he's awesome. He was apparently the guy behind redesigning the Mazdaspeed3 suspension between gen 1 and gen 2 so it became less ugly to drive fast on mixed-surface roads. CharlesM posted:"Great engineering defies them", does that make sense? Am I just tired or did they mean defines? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:39 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 15:37
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I've been a fan of his for many years. He just looks like he hasn't slept in a couple days.
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May 29, 2015 15:40
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After rewarding my NA with a new top (Robbins panorama - love the giant window, but it is plastic, still waiting for the canvas to stretch out so I haven't been able to drop it yet) it decided to say thanks by spotting up the driveway with oil. I'm no mechanic so I brought it into the shop today. Diagnosis: rear main seal and oil pan gasket to the tune of $1k. Does that sound about right? Is there anything I can have them replace while the car is apart? They also told me my rear calipers were starting to seize. I can do pads and rotors, and don't imagine calipers would be too bad. Can they be rebuilt or do I just need to replace them? Ninja edit: Forgot about the parking brake. Will that make things a pain?
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May 29, 2015 23:17
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The only repair I've done is replacing a rear caliper. It was easy peasy, but read a guide online if you've never seen one where the parking brake is integrated.
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May 29, 2015 23:47
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rhombus posted:After rewarding my NA with a new top (Robbins panorama - love the giant window, but it is plastic, still waiting for the canvas to stretch out so I haven't been able to drop it yet) it decided to say thanks by spotting up the driveway with oil. I'm no mechanic so I brought it into the shop today. Diagnosis: rear main seal and oil pan gasket to the tune of $1k. Does that sound about right? Is there anything I can have them replace while the car is apart? Might as well have a clutch job done if you're gonna replace the rear main. Honestly I wouldn't bother with the rear seal until it's due for a clutch unless it's really bad. You could rebuild the calipers if you really wanted to but it's a million times easier to just get new (rebuilt) ones. Unless you have tons of free time to gently caress with poo poo like that I wouldn't bother.
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May 30, 2015 00:33
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Ugh. Killed an hour tearing down my door cards only to find out that the outer window roller is fine and not the cause of my window regulator binding and squeaking. What's good for lubing the cable? Internet says Tri-Flow but there are so many kinds of it. Will the tube of Shin-Etsu I have work for it?
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May 30, 2015 05:12
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rhombus posted:After rewarding my NA with a new top (Robbins panorama - love the giant window, but it is plastic, still waiting for the canvas to stretch out so I haven't been able to drop it yet) it decided to say thanks by spotting up the driveway with oil. I'm no mechanic so I brought it into the shop today. Diagnosis: rear main seal and oil pan gasket to the tune of $1k. Does that sound about right? Is there anything I can have them replace while the car is apart? Do you live in a salt region? Nearly every car I've picked up from a salt region has stuck rear calipers and the oil pan seals failing. The engine needs to get removed to do the oil pan seals. (Technically you could do it by dropping the steering rack and subframe, but that's more work than just pulling the engine) Miatas don't have oil pan gaskets so try taking it to another shop for a second opinion, the shop might have just guessed what it probably needs without looking carefully if they don't know Miatas. It could be as easy as a CAS O-ring which is a super common failure point. Definitely get the clutch done at the same time though if you do end up needing to have the engine pulled. I always replace calipers, but I've heard of people rebuilding them. It doesn't seem worth spending so much of your time to possibly get a good caliper in the end versus the cost of the professionally built one that you know is going to be good.
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May 30, 2015 13:17
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Ugh. Killed an hour tearing down my door cards only to find out that the outer window roller is fine and not the cause of my window regulator binding and squeaking. What's good for lubing the cable? Yes, that's all I use. You need to take everything out, clean (scrape) off the lovely hardened grease and re grease everything with shin etsu. Cables, tracks, everything. Replace the guide with a teflon guide if you haven't already.
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May 30, 2015 16:46
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Yeah, the objective for the teardown was to install a Delrin guide. The original guide seemed 'ok' but not great (it was rotting since the PO had used what is obviously silicone lube on a rubber bushing). Maybe later I'll pull the window reg out of the door and just grease everything in there. I think I spotted a rust spot on the Bowden cable too, so hopefully I can salvage it.
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May 30, 2015 17:00
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