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SeldomSeen posted:I've got a 2000 passat wagon, and I some how managed to break off the attachment point for the hatch lift support. Does any body know how to reattach it to the car? I figured I would just have to take the trim off and bolt it back on, but there is no way to access it. I had a customer with this problem. Easiest answer was to remove the plastic trim, use a step drill to make a hole large enough to fit a locking nut through, then hold the nut in place while threading the attachment ball into it.
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May 11, 2015 01:12
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Or use a riv-nut. You'd need to drill the hole out a little but it would be the easiest way of fixing it.
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May 11, 2015 01:17
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I recently discovered on my 2006 Jetta 2.0T that I had a vacuum hose cracked from the brake booster to the vacuum pump. This was creating misfires and bad idle for a long time, when basically every bit of research I had done would say it was either coils/plugs or a part of the pcv system. Just a heads up - check for vacuum leaks if you're getting misfires or bad idle before replacing a ton of other stuff.
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May 11, 2015 16:45
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My 2010 Golf TDI keeps telling me to check my license plates lights, but they are working. Should I try replacing the fuse and see if that fixes it?
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May 11, 2015 21:03
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:My 2010 Golf TDI keeps telling me to check my license plates lights, but they are working. Should I try replacing the fuse and see if that fixes it? Are you using incandescent bulbs, or LED bulbs?
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May 12, 2015 05:21
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No. 6 posted:Are you using incandescent bulbs, or LED bulbs? Incandescent. I read about having to disable the warning if you use aftermarket LED bulbs, but nothing about a false positive if you are using incandescent.
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May 12, 2015 14:46
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I think the sensors just checks the resistance of the bulb. Could be they are getting to the end of their life and have fallen out of spec.
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May 12, 2015 16:03
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Uthor posted:I think the sensors just checks the resistance of the bulb. Could be they are getting to the end of their life and have fallen out of spec. Correct. It's also possible that it is whining about it because the bulbs are mismatched. I know old Volvos had that issue.
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May 12, 2015 19:10
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Is there a way to stop the radio from turning the volume down when you start driving? My 2013 JSW tdi drives me crazy since you start the car, the radio comes one at a set volume. Then you pull away and it drops the volume down a bunch. Not a huge deal, turn the volume back up even higher now so I can hear over the road/car noise etc. Then I park the car, forgot to turn the volume down and walk away. Get back to my car and I am greeted to the radio blasting. Doesn't help that I normally stream music from my phone, which is quieter than the SD card I have in the stereo as well.
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May 12, 2015 23:07
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I think we have the same car and mine does the opposite, the volume goes up with speed and down again when you slow down but I'm not sure I've seen how to change the settings.
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May 12, 2015 23:13
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I'm pretty sure there's independent settings for the resume volume and speed compensated volume. It reads like its supposed to prevent the volume from being louder than that when you start, however on my car it seems to always crank the volume to that max setting even if its lower.
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May 13, 2015 00:21
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Anyone ever seen a bulb burn out like this? I've only swapped a few, but usually there's just something wrong with the actual filament. I have no idea what could cause this to happen.
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May 13, 2015 18:32
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The pin on the bulb or the socket itself were damaged/dirty. It melted because it got hot due to the poor connection.
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May 13, 2015 21:23
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BraveUlysses posted:I think we have the same car and mine does the opposite, the volume goes up with speed and down again when you slow down but I'm not sure I've seen how to change the settings. See, now that is the behavior I would expect. 2013 JSW without navigation? If our cars do the opposite but are the same year/model/etc I will be extra confused. Hopefully I can find some sort of option to change it without needing access to vagcom.
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May 13, 2015 21:37
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oh, no I do have navigation and sunroof on my car (shouldn't have gotten them though).
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May 13, 2015 22:01
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BraveUlysses posted:oh, no I do have navigation and sunroof on my car (shouldn't have gotten them though). Ah, I have a sunroof as well, but that was only cause they had it on the lot and sold it to me for the same price as one without the sunroof. Didn't want the nav since VW electronics scare me and I did not trust the proxy keys. I will be rather disappointed if they got the volume poo poo backwards on the 2 different head units.
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May 13, 2015 23:20
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Hello, I had a question about a 2002 VW Jetta trunk latch. This is on a friend's car, the latch won't fasten all the way so trunk is permanently slightly ajar: Asking as a newbie, is this something I could fix with ordering a part and basic tools? Or is it more complex? (my apologies if this is the wrong thread) Thanks and please let me know if more info is needed.
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May 14, 2015 01:35
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I've done that exact repair, it's not hard. Pop the trunk open and undo the screws holding the interior carpeting cardboard thing on. Then the lock unit is accessed with bolts. I got an eBay unit that failed 6 months later, might want an OEM lock if you're replacing it.
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May 14, 2015 02:17
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Soooo, how expensive is a (very) cheap car? Looking for a car at the mo, and a friend of a friend lets me know her husbands got an audi going spare, only wants scrap value for it (£170): '99 A6 2.8 Quattro with tiptronic, high mileage (209k miles) but its been fully serviced by a local independant. Reckons he stopped driving it because the manual shift stopped working, and the headlights were too opaque to pass the MOT minor thing is, he stopped driving it in 2010! Its been sat in a closed barn for all that time with a blanket over the top. Battery was still good, started on the first turn. evrything seems to work ok, and i'm taking it out for a test drive tomorrow to see how the gearbox is holding up. Bad idea, or BEST IDEA?
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May 17, 2015 22:13
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Anghammarad posted:Soooo, how expensive is a (very) cheap car? It's fine to drive until it breaks but I wouldn't go down the hole of replacing the tranny.
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May 17, 2015 23:06
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Having an issue with my 2010 GTI. On cold starts I'm getting a high pitched squeak/shrieking sound for about the first 30 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKjB2wLjUEY This doesn't really happen on warm starts, however for I will hear a short squeal similar to above as I pass through 1200-1500 RPMs or so. After the sound stops in either scenario it won't occur for the rest of the drive and seems to have no impact on performance.
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May 17, 2015 23:25
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I have a 2002 Audi A6. The rear passenger side footwell is filling with water. I had the sunroof drains cleared and that didn't fix the problem. I don't think its the battery drain either. Please help.
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May 22, 2015 05:28
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2007 GTI. I have to replace my passenger side rear tire as it's developed a sidewall bubble. The tires have around 50% life left. If I replace the tire with a new one, will the slightly different diameter give me ABS/traction control warnings or anything similar? I'm having a difficult time finding places that shave tires in my area. e: I'm not going to replace all 4 tires because I plan on swapping rims after this winter to a different diameter and width.
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May 22, 2015 16:03
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VelociBacon posted:2007 GTI. I have to replace my passenger side rear tire as it's developed a sidewall bubble. The tires have around 50% life left. If I replace the tire with a new one, will the slightly different diameter give me ABS/traction control warnings or anything similar? I'm having a difficult time finding places that shave tires in my area. You should probably replace the 2 rears. Tirerack will shave tires. I learned this because apparently you can only be 4% difference between tires on AWD.
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May 22, 2015 16:36
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veedubfreak posted:You should probably replace the 2 rears. Tirerack will shave tires. I learned this because apparently you can only be 4% difference between tires on AWD. Yeah absolutely with AWD or if this was on the drive axle, but the 07 GTI is a FWD car and this is on the rear axle.
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May 22, 2015 16:37
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VelociBacon posted:Yeah absolutely with AWD or if this was on the drive axle, but the 07 GTI is a FWD car and this is on the rear axle. I'm saying at 50% wear, you might as well just replace the 2 tires on that axle instead of just the 1, unless they're replacing it for free.
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May 22, 2015 16:50
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veedubfreak posted:I'm saying at 50% wear, you might as well just replace the 2 tires on that axle instead of just the 1, unless they're replacing it for free. Ah gotcha, I misread your post. I'll probably end up just getting the one tire shaved since I'm replacing them all relatively soon anyways.
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May 22, 2015 16:56
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Blakkout posted:Anyone ever seen a bulb burn out like this? I've only swapped a few, but usually there's just something wrong with the actual filament. I have no idea what could cause this to happen. Super common in earlier A4 chassis Jetta/Golf. The socket contact points were made of poor quality metal. We replaced piles of them with updated sockets and the problem eventually dried up.
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May 23, 2015 03:12
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I have a 2002 Audi A6. The rear passenger side footwell is filling with water. I had the sunroof drains cleared and that didn't fix the problem. I don't think its the battery drain either. Please help. Make sure the drains under the battery aren't plugged up. Also, odds are your TCM is now full of water too (under the carpet in front of the passenger front seat) so that is going to be a nightmare of problems.
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May 23, 2015 03:16
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Is that why my radar detector and backup beeper thing stopped working and it thinks my tail light is out for some reason? It's a manual transmission.
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May 23, 2015 05:23
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I have a 2002 Audi A6. The rear passenger side footwell is filling with water. I had the sunroof drains cleared and that didn't fix the problem. I don't think its the battery drain either. Please help. I had this same issue a few months back, same car, went through the same measures that didn't work. The problem ended up being the plastic tray that houses the cabin air filter on the passenger side up under the battery tray area. The air filter holder should be completely sealed all the way around the bottom because it is right next to the path water takes when running off of the windshield on the passenger side. Remove the three screws that hold that thing in place, likely breaking the rearmost one because it is at a stupid angle. Remove the probably waterlogged foam seal thing on the underside and clean where it mounts up to the car. You could either try to find a similar material to replace the old seal, or do like I did and just coat the poo poo out of it with as much silicon sealant or caulking as you can possibly throw at it. There is also a foam seal on the inside next to the flaps for the HVAC thing, you can replace that seal as well or do like I did and shove a fan in there and dry it out. I also dried out the rear passenger footwell in a similar ghetto fashion. I cut a line in the carpet because I didn't want to remove the entire interior. The cleaner the cut, the less noticeable it will be. After cutting it, pulled the carpet up and propped the flap open and had a box fan blasting it for a couple days. The carpet has actually quite a lot of padding material, so it can hold a deceptive amount of water. Good luck to you
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May 23, 2015 20:34
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VelociBacon posted:I've done that exact repair, it's not hard. Pop the trunk open and undo the screws holding the interior carpeting cardboard thing on. Then the lock unit is accessed with bolts. Thank you for the info, the trunk lining and bolts came off easily. I took the latch apart and refastened a spring and now the trunk latches again. Thanks!
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May 25, 2015 22:38
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DrChu posted:Having an issue with my 2010 GTI. On cold starts I'm getting a high pitched squeak/shrieking sound for about the first 30 seconds: Still trying to figure this out. Its not the serpentine belt or the diaphragm part of the PCV valve. I also posted this on the Vortex and one of the suggestions was the secondary air system (CBFA engine). If i disconnect the power to the solenoid to check will that cause any other damage? I guess I'm worried about the pump going but then the solenoid doing nothing.
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May 27, 2015 01:56
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DrChu posted:Still trying to figure this out. Its not the serpentine belt or the diaphragm part of the PCV valve. I also posted this on the Vortex and one of the suggestions was the secondary air system (CBFA engine). If i disconnect the power to the solenoid to check will that cause any other damage? I guess I'm worried about the pump going but then the solenoid doing nothing. Do you guys still have secondary air pumps on those? That screeching/farting noise sounds exactly like dying ones do, you can pull the plug and start it to check, not sure if it will trigger the light. They only run for about 30 seconds on start-up (about the same time as the raised cold start idle) as they're meant to reduce start-up emissions. It's basically a cheat method, the emissions aren't much less, but they dump in a load of air to reduce the level by percentage volume. The remedy is to plug a suitable resistor in place of the pump, the ECU won't know it's missing.
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May 27, 2015 02:08
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Mooseykins posted:Do you guys still have secondary air pumps on those? That screeching/farting noise sounds exactly like dying ones do, you can pull the plug and start it to check, not sure if it will trigger the light. The CBFA engine does. I guess the part near where the noise is is the combi valve/injection valve (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/ES281566/), not sure where I read solenoid at. I don't mind replacing it if its the actual bad part, though I hope I could find something cheaper than that link.
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May 27, 2015 02:22
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DrChu posted:The CBFA engine does. I guess the part near where the noise is is the combi valve/injection valve (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/ES281566/), not sure where I read solenoid at. I don't mind replacing it if its the actual bad part, though I hope I could find something cheaper than that link. If you have some means of erasing the codes should you get one, i would start with the pump. Unplug it and start the car, if the noise is still there unplug that valve/solenoid and try again. Not sure on the location of the pump on your car, but they were usually mounted in the front right corner behind the bumper.
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May 27, 2015 02:43
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So I noticed a check engine light on my 2011 GTI on the way to work this morning. I got home and pulled the following code: 1 Fault Found: 008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle P2187 - 000 - - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 76558 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.05.27 Time: 16:44:11 Freeze Frame: RPM: 815 /min Load: 26.3 % Speed: 0.0 km/h Temperature: 75.0∞C Temperature: 42.0∞C Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar Voltage: 13.716 V I cleared it and will see if it returns tomorrow. What are the chances that this is a fluke, and what should I be looking for if it isn't?
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May 29, 2015 01:08
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I have a 2002 Audi A6. The rear passenger side footwell is filling with water. I had the sunroof drains cleared and that didn't fix the problem. I don't think its the battery drain either. Please help. A quick check on google suggests the central lock pump is in the same place as my A4: behind the RR seat, in the right side trunk well. On yours it said next to the battery? The pump is in a foam box, and the well it sits in has a drain hole. That can get clogged, and fill with water. It often shorts the pump electrics, too. Check out that space and see if it's full too. It may not be the source of your water, but it's still something to be aware of.
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May 31, 2015 14:37
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I really enjoy reading this thread because it makes my AMG Mercedes seem reliable and cheap to own by comparison.
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May 31, 2015 21:29
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After a lengthy diagnostic, Audi seems to have located the problem with my random lean conditions. It appears that I have one fuel pump out of two that is failing which is causing aeration in the line. There goes another $1,000
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Jun 1, 2015 16:41
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