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BONESAWWWWWW posted:I have a Raspberry Pi and i'm having trouble getting it to recognize my 3tb external drive. It shows it as having only about 800gb of total space on the partition, which is NTFS right now for a number of reasons. Fixed my problem, if anyone else experiences this. My enclosure and adapter were the issue. I bought a USB 3.0 enclosure and it solved the problem immediately.
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May 24, 2015 17:23
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I'm about to switch from a 1 TB HDD to a 2 TB HDD and 128 GB SSD on my computer (Windows 7). Is there a best tutorial to reference for this, or is the transfer process basically: 1. Clone my current HDD to the new one. 2. Trim the current HDD to fit onto the new SSD and transfer. 3. Move User folder locations to the new HDD. 4. Reassign the SSD as boot.
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May 26, 2015 17:24
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Orfeo posted:I'm about to switch from a 1 TB HDD to a 2 TB HDD and 128 GB SSD on my computer (Windows 7). Is there a best tutorial to reference for this, or is the transfer process basically:
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May 26, 2015 18:38
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I want my audio to play through both my analog speakers and my USB headset at the same time on windows 7. I had it working before, but recently hooked my PC up to an optical surround system temporarily, and upon switching back, I can't figure it out. I have enabled Stereo Mix and set it to my headphones, and when I test the headphones in the Playback Devices panel, they work. But none of the applications on my computer will send sound to them, only to my speakers. I'm getting fed up with this. Any ideas? I know this works, as I had it set up to work for a couple of years. Edit: Figured out that Stereo Mix simply will not send audio to where I tell it to. It is picking up sound based on the green bar in the recording devices window, but it won't play the audio is recording through anything, headset OR speakers. And apparently this an issue nobody else on the internet has ever had. Sandwich Anarchist fucked around with this message at 01:30 on May 27, 2015 |
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May 27, 2015 00:06
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Are M.2 sockets important things to have on a mainboard or are they just luxury one can do without?
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May 27, 2015 14:02
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Riso posted:Are M.2 sockets important things to have on a mainboard or are they just luxury one can do without?
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May 27, 2015 17:01
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Is that cheapest NUC really any better than http://www.amazon.com/Zotac-Mini-Barebones-System-ZBOX-BI320-U/dp/B00LJEFR68/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8 Or put another way: any better suggestions than that zotac or a nuc for a htpc box that will run windows? I just need to decode 1080p, would like to leave it on all the time without worrying about the electric bill (can stand a few seconds wake from sleep).
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May 29, 2015 19:58
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^ Can't speak to the Zotac unit but I have this one as a HTPC and can attest that it can run Windows 7 (well, I'm running 8 on mine) and do 1080, also wakes up & boots quickly but can be a touch laggy when you start an application.
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May 29, 2015 20:05
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ChiralCondensate posted:Is that cheapest NUC really any better than http://www.amazon.com/Zotac-Mini-Barebones-System-ZBOX-BI320-U/dp/B00LJEFR68/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
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May 30, 2015 01:01
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Alereon posted:Consider an Intel Compute Stick, they're $150 and come with all hardware and a Windows license. You get an absolute max of 1080p (can't even drive 1200p monitors) but if that's all you need it seems like a killer deal. I guess for the stick, even with the micro fan, there's simply not enough surface to cool the thing. Maybe? e: Or it's a limit of however they did the hdmi
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May 30, 2015 01:27
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So when sending data for drives over USB, there's BOT and the newer USAP protocol. But what about firewire and thunderbolt? And thumb drives? How (in)efficient are those protocols?
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May 30, 2015 17:07
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Shaocaholica posted:So when sending data for drives over USB, there's BOT and the newer USAP protocol. But what about firewire and thunderbolt? And thumb drives? How (in)efficient are those protocols? Alereon fucked around with this message at 17:50 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 17:47
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Alereon posted:I'm having trouble finding details for Firewire, the best references I can find seem to indicate that with only a host and a single peripheral you can get very nearly 100% of theoretical throughput, which seems to be about 393mbps for Firewire 400. Thunderbolt and USB 3.0/3.1 use the same physical layer (PCI-E 2.x/3.x, quoted data rates are after encoding overhead) so the theoretical bandwidth should be the same. I'm having difficulty finding protocol overhead information for Thunderbolt, but the USB-IF thinks you should be able to push >400MB/sec through the standard USB 3.0 protocol. I think a big issue currently is that controllers and especially bridge chips for USB 3.0 are still very immature, and that's limiting performance more than the protocol itself. Thanks for looking. I've been playing around with benchmarking USB3 controllers and a lot of the current crop are UASP enabled. Pretty much any of them with ASMedia controllers which is a lot of the OEM ones. There's probably more people missing out on UASP because of OS and drivers. I think people get caught up on sequential performance which is good to know but UASP promises other things like trim and queueing which can be measured. With a 'cheap' $20 enclosure from Inateck, I was able to get ~430MB/s sequential read and write over USB 3.0 UASP with a 840Pro SSD. Trick is to have a controller that is actually 6G SATA for obvious reasons. edit: curious how TB stacks up to USB3+UASP with an SSD on random reads and writes. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 19:50
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I have a problem with my Motherboard: MSI A68HM-E33 FM2+ On a reboot this afternoon to apply some Windows Updates somehow the USB overcurrent protection got tripped so was getting an error on boot saying system will shut down to protect motherboard. After doing a fair bit of swapping/removing USB devices I found out that when the front panel USB connectors for my case are plugged into ether of the USB headers this trips the OCP. Without the front USB connected system starts normally and other USB ports seem unaffected. I assume the above means the most likely culprit is the cases USB front panel cabling/pcb ?
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May 31, 2015 21:08
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but my dad wants to buy some sort of IP camera (for outdoor use) so he can check on the house while nobody is home. He asked me for suggestions, but I know gently caress all about that. I looked around and didn't find any threads. Basically, can someone recommend a good (nothing professional) outdoor camera?
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Jun 1, 2015 15:45
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beedeebee posted:Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but my dad wants to buy some sort of IP camera (for outdoor use) so he can check on the house while nobody is home. He asked me for suggestions, but I know gently caress all about that. I looked around and didn't find any threads. Basically, can someone recommend a good (nothing professional) outdoor camera? If you've got archive there's an ask/tell about security cameras and installs by a guy who works in that industry: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3547030 Don't buy the cheapo chinese one we were taking apart but there are some other recommendations in the thread. Alternatively shop on amazon by ratings.
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Jun 1, 2015 19:51
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I want to get a small microphone that I can put on top of my monitor so I can use that digital assistant thing that comes with Windows 10. Figure you could recommend one?
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Jun 1, 2015 23:25
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Maybe just go with a cheapish logitech/microsoft web cam?
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Jun 2, 2015 00:01
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Makes sense. I'll just put some electrical tape over the camera.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:09
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I ordered a hard drive off Amazon and it came today with the least protection possible. I'm tempted to just return it without even testing it, because it seems highly likely the hard drive was damaged in shipping as nothing prevented it from being bumped around in the box during shipping. The static sleeve has many bumps where I assume the circuit board on the bottom of the hard drive impacted enough to deform, but not break, the sleeve. Should I return this or am I over-reacting? Back in my day hard drives were fragile 
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Jun 2, 2015 02:29
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glickeroo posted:I ordered a hard drive off Amazon and it came today with the least protection possible. Nope, that's ridiculous, return it immediately. Also, notify WD as well because they're responsible for RMAs so they need to know that Amazon or one of their vendors is loving up. Was this sold from Amazon or a 3rd party? Usually Amazon is solid and Newegg is crap when it comes to OEM drive shipments.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:34
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glickeroo posted:I ordered a hard drive off Amazon and it came today with the least protection possible. Garbage packing. Return it and demand it's packed prooperly if you want another one.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:34
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I thought platter drives were only really vulnerable when in a powered-on state? As in, when not spinning the heads park off the platter and you'd have to subject the drive to a very high shock to actually damage anything. I mean, it's not like they exactly protect the drive well in retail boxes - usually it's just suspended with plastic endcaps.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:41
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1) If nothing else, it's the principal of the thing. A trivial amount of effort/materials would make this conversation never occur. 2) Those end caps actually provided a lot of shock dampening. Pretty much exactly what a mfg would send you for return packaging during an RMA.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:46
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Geoj posted:I thought platter drives were only really vulnerable when in a powered-on state? They are more vulnerable when running, yes, but when not running they can still be wrecked by heavy jostling by things getting knocked off-kilter or even broken straight up internally.
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Jun 2, 2015 02:55
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Would my i5 4590 bottleneck a 980 ti? I'm considering getting one to replace my 970, current card can't seem to handle 2560 x 1600 in games
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Jun 2, 2015 02:59
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FCKGW posted:Nope, that's ridiculous, return it immediately. Also, notify WD as well because they're responsible for RMAs so they need to know that Amazon or one of their vendors is loving up. It was a 3rd party which I now see has been getting negative feedback for shipping drives in paper envelopes. Thanks for the quick responses!
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Jun 2, 2015 03:04
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Green Puddin posted:Would my i5 4590 bottleneck a 980 ti? I'm considering getting one to replace my 970, current card can't seem to handle 2560 x 1600 in games No it should be fine. There aren't many faster CPUs.
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Jun 2, 2015 03:07
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Rexxed posted:No it should be fine. There aren't many faster CPUs. Thanks!
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Jun 2, 2015 03:20
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glickeroo posted:It was a 3rd party which I now see has been getting negative feedback for shipping drives in paper envelopes. Yeah, as a rule if you order from Amazon (or any other place with a "Marketplace") and you order from anyone other than Amazon/[place] itself you have made a mistake or three. The only exception I can think of is companies like Monoprice, who have their own storefront on the Amazon Marketplace, and I'd still only do it for the things they manufacture - and I'd still strongly consider their actual site instead if they sell there.
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Jun 2, 2015 14:27
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So, I have a question about my Gigabyte R9 290X. I just got it and swapped out my GTX 760. I was playing Skyrim with the GTX 760 before, and with all the mods loaded from the STEP list, I reliably played at 60 FPS at 1080p. Now here I am with what should be a much more powerful card, and I'm hitting 43 FPS and I'm only halfway through the STEP list. Does anybody know what gives, I thought this card was supposed to be the poo poo? Is there some setting I'm missing? This is what my main window in Afterburner looks like after running around a bit, along with some graphs and my fan curve.  Don't know if those images help.
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Jun 3, 2015 08:48
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Touchfuzzy posted:So, I have a question about my Gigabyte R9 290X. I just got it and swapped out my GTX 760. I was playing Skyrim with the GTX 760 before, and with all the mods loaded from the STEP list, I reliably played at 60 FPS at 1080p. Now here I am with what should be a much more powerful card, and I'm hitting 43 FPS and I'm only halfway through the STEP list. Does anybody know what gives, I thought this card was supposed to be the poo poo? Is there some setting I'm missing? This is what my main window in Afterburner looks like after running around a bit, along with some graphs and my fan curve.
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Jun 3, 2015 18:03
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Alereon posted:You're on video drivers that are extremely old. Uninstall your current drivers, run Display Driver Uninstaller to remove the remnants, and then install the latest Catalyst Beta drivers. Alright, well that helped, but now I have this feeling my card is thermal throttling. What's a good way to test and get proof as to whether it is or not? People in an IRC chat are telling me my Gigabyte Windforce 290X shouldn't be going over 70C-75C, and yet when I get into my game, it's climbing up to 85C (which is some limit set in CCC?) and GPU Load keeps saying 100% in Afterburner.
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Jun 4, 2015 01:03
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Touchfuzzy posted:Alright, well that helped, but now I have this feeling my card is thermal throttling. What's a good way to test and get proof as to whether it is or not? People in an IRC chat are telling me my Gigabyte Windforce 290X shouldn't be going over 70C-75C, and yet when I get into my game, it's climbing up to 85C (which is some limit set in CCC?) and GPU Load keeps saying 100% in Afterburner. Alereon fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 02:03
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Alereon posted:85C is the thermal target for your card in Normal/Quiet mode, down from 95C on the stock R9 290X. It's not throttling per se, it just will adjust clockspeeds, voltages, and fan speeds to maintain that temperature. Uber mode seems to drop that to 75C if you want to try switching, but fan noise will be louder. Ah, alright. So it'll just aim for 85C regardless? Does this mean I can sent a lower fan curve since it'll just want to go for 85 no matter what? 'Cause I'm used to my 760, where if it got 85C, my fans were going 80% speed. Do you know of a good fan curve plan, or is this something I should just not mess with? Also, is Power Target % in GPU Tweak/Afterburner something I should mess with, or is it useless to me unless I'm overclocking? Touchfuzzy fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 02:28
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Touchfuzzy posted:Ah, alright. So it'll just aim for 85C regardless? Does this mean I can sent a lower fan curve since it'll just want to go for 85 no matter what? 'Cause I'm used to my 760, where if it got 85C, my fans were going 80% speed. Do you know of a good fan curve plan, or is this something I should just not mess with? Alereon fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 06:03
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What am I looking for if I want to build some type of central storage server that I can hook my TV up to and watch whatever? Am I looking at basically building another rig with a bunch of HDDs and somehow hooking a TV to it?
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Jun 6, 2015 05:35
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If you just need it for storage there are several NAS (network attached storage) units that will take a hard drive/drives and present it/them to the network with a minimal power and space footprint. Options run from a single drive to multiple drives with RAID and automatic backup utilities available for your systems and everywhere in between. If you want it to perform other functions (DHCP, torrent slave, etc) you'd be better off with a full PC.
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Jun 6, 2015 05:57
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Etrips posted:What am I looking for if I want to build some type of central storage server that I can hook my TV up to and watch whatever? Am I looking at basically building another rig with a bunch of HDDs and somehow hooking a TV to it? In general you use a NAS for data storage and a small appliance to send stuff to the TV. You could combine the functions but there's a lot of set top boxes that do streaming now and are very cheap. You may want to check out these threads: Packrats unite! The consumer NAS/storage megathread ...and there's more than one way to do streaming (I stream to a Raspberry Pi running OpenELEC) but if you want a packaged solution that can handle a lot of HDMI sticks and set top boxes and mobile devices there's also a Plex thread, which is a server that will stream to almost any kind of device and transcode to support it if you have enough CPU: Plex Megathread: It's like Netflix, but with your own media!
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Jun 6, 2015 06:39
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My laser printer power cable is too short. I'm looking at getting a 3-5 foot extension. I see on home depot's website some of them have amperage ratings. Do I need to be concerned about that? I figured any cable that size would handle it.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:41
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