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Releasing the throttle with boost gives you a hooting sound. It's simply the dump valve (the part SCA Enthusiast linked) dumping the pressure into the cobra. Some even use special dump valves that make extra sound when releasing pressure. A few fit these open dump valves in T7 SAABs and get a handful of error codes because the dump valve in T7 is recirculating.
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May 15, 2015 22:39
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Iskariot posted:Releasing the throttle with boost gives you a hooting sound. It's simply the dump valve (the part SCA Enthusiast linked) dumping the pressure into the cobra. Some even use special dump valves that make extra sound when releasing pressure. A few fit these open dump valves in T7 SAABs and get a handful of error codes because the dump valve in T7 is recirculating. It really depends on the degree of hootage and how much boost sets it off. My own personal problem is that the valve activates without release: If I'm starting from a dead stop and use too much throttle pressure, the drat thing will hoot away.
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May 16, 2015 00:18
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That sounds strange. Do you have openSID so you can look at what the pressure is when that happens?
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May 16, 2015 09:26
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It is indeed strange. I've kind of peen picking away at the problem since it isn't really a huge deal, but I'd like to get it figured out. I don't have openSID, but if the boost gauge on the dash is any indication, it does it at boost pressures that should be pretty normal. Because of this, I have suspicions that it might actually be the solenoid that's causing the issue. The other thing is that I've had intermittent throttle body issues, so since the solenoid is connected to that I have half a mind that it could be related too.
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May 16, 2015 12:24
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Iskariot posted:That mod is no good. The valve is controlled by the ECU and is there for a reason. Most of the mods that blind or changes in engine management are rubbish. Hacks done by people that don't understand the consequences of what they are doing. reminds me of the people who put manual boost controllers on their volvo 850s. It might increase the boost, but the ECU will see that its open-loop load calculation isn't right anymore and start screaming
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May 16, 2015 20:02
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atomicthumbs posted:reminds me of the people who put manual boost controllers on their volvo 850s. It might increase the boost, but the ECU will see that its open-loop load calculation isn't right anymore and start screaming So I did some work on my 9-5 the other day.  I bought new consoles as they are cheap and the old ones where rusty. Sadly I didn't find new mounting kits so I could have replaced the rusty mounting parts but they are functional even with a little rust. Didn't have time to blast them and repaint either.  The old dampeners were destroyed. I could easily compress them by hand. The change after this was monumental! I have the K-Mac camber bushings in a box here that I'm going to put in at some point. I also have the SAS sway bar kit ready to be installed and a full upgrade of the front suspension. Now all I need is time. 
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May 17, 2015 21:35
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Iskariot posted:Yeah, or any of the diesel tuning boxes that you connect before the ECU that feed the ECU with incorrect data. People do the strangest things. I need to do that to mine soon too. My suspension is driving me insane.
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May 18, 2015 03:37
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That's the one thing I don't miss on my 9-5 wagon, I could never get the alignment just right and there wasn't a single alignment shop around that had the knowledge(tools?) to take care of it. I got different answers from everybody, even GM dealers wouldn't/couldn't do anything for it. The only place that got it anywhere close was Sears.. Yeah.. That's special. edit: also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXCPDAOzbpM keykey fucked around with this message at 17:22 on May 18, 2015 |
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May 18, 2015 16:43
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keykey posted:That's the one thing I don't miss on my 9-5 wagon, I could never get the alignment just right and there wasn't a single alignment shop around that had the knowledge(tools?) to take care of it. I got different answers from everybody, even GM dealers wouldn't/couldn't do anything for it. The only place that got it anywhere close was Sears.. Yeah.. That's special. Huh? Front or rear? The front is a fairly standard McPherson strut. It shouldn't be a problem. The rear is worse. The standard way to adjust camber is to shim the hub. Aftermarket way is to use an adjustable bushing from K-Mac (Opel Vectra B, IIRC). The toe-in on the rear isn't possible to fix, I think.
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May 18, 2015 19:29
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Iskariot posted:Huh? Front or rear? The front is a fairly standard McPherson strut. It shouldn't be a problem. The rear is worse. The standard way to adjust camber is to shim the hub. Aftermarket way is to use an adjustable bushing from K-Mac (Opel Vectra B, IIRC). The toe-in on the rear isn't possible to fix, I think. Yeah, the toe-in on the rear on both sides is what the issue was. I got the shims to take care of the other area, but it was never quite right. Also, the original shocks they came with were garbage and are a common failure component, so Bilstein's it was.
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May 18, 2015 19:43
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Follow up: Did the ol' suction test on the bypass valve, and indeed there is no resistance. Replacement due to arrive on Friday. Eeuroparts' free shipping on orders over $100 is a great way to get people to buy more stuff than they need right now. I wonder how many times I've fallen for it.
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May 20, 2015 00:43
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How good are the v6 engine Saabs? I remember hearing that V6 Saabs were not terribly reliable. I'm currently looking at a laser red 2007 9-3 Aero with 101k miles on it, one owner and 8 service records, and I think I really want it. Are the 4 cylinder Saabs the safer bet? Because A 2006 9-5 2.3T with 80k miles is also available in my area.
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May 27, 2015 06:45
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The V6 NG9-3s are much safer than the OG9-5s. The latter used some wonky turbo setup that usually result in tears. The 9-3 is reliable, AFAIK, but thirsty. The 4 cylinder engines can pack a lot of power if you set it up right. The b235 is a fantastic engine but requires regular oil changes else they are prone to sludge. 10,000km is the recommendation in enthusiast circles.
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May 27, 2015 19:30
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No firsthand experience, so keep that in mind, but the v6 models were only produced to appease gm executives who couldn't understand why Saab weren't already doing that, not realizing the utility of a turbocharged smaller engine, which was what Saab was all about. From what I've read, they're a pain to do a lot of work to because the engine bay doesn't fit them very well.
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May 28, 2015 00:37
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Sooo I ended up getting the V6. I really appreciate the advice, but it was pretty much exactly what I wanted in a car. It's an absolute joy to drive, and i'm super excited to have it.
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May 30, 2015 21:41
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My 9-3 convertible keep resetting the trip meter to 150.3miles (the one on SID). I reset it manually, drive and all is working fine. Park up with 20.1 miles on it, have lunch, restart the car and it shows 150.3m I tried turning the car fully off and on and it remembers the right mileage when it restarts. Leave it a while and it goes back to 150.3m I am confused.
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Jun 3, 2015 15:41
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spog posted:My 9-3 convertible keep resetting the trip meter to 150.3miles (the one on SID). your car is out for a joy ride. Tell it to knock it off.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:41
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spog posted:I am confused. The Saab owner's mantra.
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Jun 4, 2015 02:53
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Murkyhumor posted:Sooo I ended up getting the V6. I really appreciate the advice, but it was pretty much exactly what I wanted in a car. It's an absolute joy to drive, and i'm super excited to have it. 
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Jun 4, 2015 06:38
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BrokenKnucklez posted:your car is out for a joy ride. Tell it to knock it off.
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Jun 4, 2015 09:34
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SCA Enthusiast posted:The Saab owner's mantra. Okay, call me Mr Thickie, but I don't understand how it works. If I hold 'clear' for 3 seconds, it says 'trip meter cleared' and it zeros it. It then increases as I drive along If I press 'clear' for 1 second, it resets it to '0.0' and continues to increase as I drive. At some point (turned off for an hour), it seems to jump back up to (presumably) the distance since I did a long press reset. How the frig am I supposed to use this?
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Jun 4, 2015 20:18
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"Parking assist failure"on my 2008 9-5 wagon.Internet says I have to dismantle entire rear bumper, trim, etc. probably going to just pay garage to do it, that seems like a lot of time for me. Aargh. Otherwise just drove fine through 2000 mile road trip through southwest. 27-31 mpg for 75mph++ speeds. Yay for high speed limits and deserted 2 lane highways!
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Jun 7, 2015 02:22
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Back from the 2015 SAAB festival! Had a great time. Met lots of people, most notably fellow SAAB turbo club of Norway members. I'm terrible at taking pictures so the blogs are a better source for it. Went to NEVS on Friday and went to Mattias Bergman's presentation on the future of NEVS. It sounded... sane. They have signed an agreement with a third major investor but all was not finalized so he couldn't name the company. Saw a presentation called “From sketch to complete product”. Can't remember the name of the guy doing the presentation but that too was uplifting news. Lastly I went on a tour of the factory and holy poo poo! When SAAB bragged about safety and world class engineering, the didn't lie. Highlights:
Still! I did other stuff as well:  That is a 2005 b235e sitting in the back of my estate. Also pictured is a box of oil cans (GM Dexos 2 dirt cheap) and tools. This will be ripped to pieces, refurbished and put together with forged guts. (Thanks to the Eibach springs and the Bilstein B8s the car lowered about a centimeter when the engine went in) Other loot were a brand new brake master cylinder for 100SEK(!), 9-3 Aero front calipers for next to nothing - the 314mm kind, a second set of rear 9-5 Aero calipers so I have a spare set, a new windscreen wiper assembly, an ECU, SPA, etc, etc. We went to a junk yard outside of Trollhättan called Redox. They bought most of the test cars from the bankruptcy so they had a huge yard with only new SAABs. It was both sad and fun to walk around so many beautiful cars withering away. A friend bought a complete 09 interior with vented and heated seats for his 9-5 sedan so we ripped one of the mint cars open. I saw and did so much that I can't remember half of it. All in all it was pretty great. Iskariot fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Jun 9, 2015 |
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Jun 9, 2015 09:18
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I just joined the club.
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Jun 12, 2015 07:58
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I started working on my 99 again this weekend!  Stripped it out: .jpg) Took the rear screen out so that I could sort out the bit of rust that was under the seal on one side. Didn't break the glass .jpg) rebuilt a bit of the rear arch: .jpg) Need to get some filler over it and sand it but my filler had gone off so its going to have to wait until next week. Amongst a massive list of jobs I have to remove the front screen to sort out some rust along the top edge (and respray it properly) .jpg) Not looking forward to this. The rear screen popped out without too much difficulty after I removed the seal centre section and then ran a pick round the seal a few times along while spraying wd40 in it, but the front screen looks much more fragile.
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Jun 14, 2015 17:51
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The why wont my car start merry-go-round is still going strong. I was all set to replace the neutral safety switch (problems starting when engine still warm, pouring cold water on it caused car to start right up), but today the car would not start in the morning after resting for a few days (something that has not happened before). Now the repair place does not think the NSS is the problem and wants to test for other issues. Also a new NSS is $650. Any reason not to get a $100 used one off of ebay? I have an 06 9-3 aero wagon, and the repair garage and their parts supplier in Pennsylvania have not heard of the NSS going out on my year and model of car before.
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Jun 22, 2015 17:43
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Is the problem that it won't start when the engine is warm, primarily? On OG9-5 that is almost always the crankshaft sensor. The rev gauge won't move when you run the starter and it won't feed fuel to the rail. A failing crankshaft sensor will deteriorate to the point it will fail even when the engine is cold. A decent workshop should figure that out with a Tech2.
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Jun 23, 2015 10:57
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Murkyhumor posted:Sooo I ended up getting the V6. I really appreciate the advice, but it was pretty much exactly what I wanted in a car. It's an absolute joy to drive, and i'm super excited to have it. Hoo boy. So i've owned this car for about a month now, and I've gotten to drive it exactly once, for less than 20 minutes. After I bought it I drove it home just fine, parked it, then began reading the manual and trying out the radio settings, etc. When I went to start it the electronics all came on, but the engine would not even turn over, just silence. Thinking it was some weird battery issue (they had given me a new one since the old had run down on the lot) I called AAA and the battery guy came out and said he thought it was a starter issue. Had it towed back to the dealer who said that their mechanic would look at it, and i got a loaner (proudly driving around a PT cruiser!). Called back a few days later to find out that they had replaced the starter, with no luck. So it was then taken to a GM dealership who took a look and said that the timing belt was stretched, which confused the car's computer making it refuse to start. Called yesterday to find out that hadn't worked either, so they took it to Scanwest Autosport who said that the timing CHAIN had come loose and broken some pistons. The car needed a new engine Luckily, the dealership that I bought it from found the right engine with only 30k miles on it, so i'm getting a completely new engine for free. I should get it back on Friday of next week. Welcome to Saab ownership, I guess?
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Jun 27, 2015 13:46
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Murkyhumor posted:Welcome to Saab ownership, I guess? As for myself, I mounted Bilstein B8s in the front yesterday and man does the big 'ol tank stick to the road. Alignment tomorrow so I'm hoping to get the K-Mac polyurethane bushings pressed in tonight. The rear camber is a bit wonky with 35mm lowering. 
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Jun 29, 2015 09:55
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Murkyhumor posted:Hoo boy.
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Jun 29, 2015 21:21
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So my 2007 9-3 has developed a new quirk, when it rains or is wet, the air conditioning refuses to work and the automatic climate control thinks that I want heat. Even with it set to the thermostat cut-out for cold, the compressor will not fire. If it dries out, it will go back to normal. Potentially related is that the outside temperature sensor is rooted and thinks it is 35 below zero outside all the time, but everything else is fine if it's dry.
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Jul 2, 2015 00:45
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So I changed my front dampeners the other day. Changed the bearings in the strut as well as I thought that would fix a clacking sound I had in speed bumps and potholes. But no. The old ones were fine when I pulled them out. I discovered the cause when I remounted the struts though. Of the three bolt holding the top mount of the strut on the right, two of the bolts had worn threads that made them pop out when I tightened. Got new ones at the dealer when I did an alignment. I also started to install K-Mac bushings at the outer top rear to correct any camber error due to the lowered Eibach/Bilstein B8 combo. Put the bushings in the freezer since I read that they are slightly larger than OEM ball bushings. I got one side 3/4 in when the supplied too failed on me:  First it buckled in the middle, which I could have solved with some large washers to put the pressure evenly along the sides. Then the walls simply crumbled:  I went to the alignment and asked if they had any tools that could cope with eccentric bushings but no. Then they had to remove the whole arm and use a press. Told them to correct the 3/4 finished side and ignore the other. I didn't want to have to remove shims when I installed the other bushing later on, which is the standard way of correcting rear camber. Did some thinking and came up with two possible solutions:  Four 4mm thick washers with a 21mm hole and a 3/4" 32mm(IIRC) impact socket. This fit the smallest rod and bearing nut of my bushing tool set perfectly. My only worry was buckling or play in the setup as there now were quite a few loose parts. The impact socket is quite course so it made the bushing stick quite well.  Backup solution. If the socket had failed due to moving around, I would have welded this setup together and grinded the whole contraption down to a usable tool. Thankfully the socket worked wonders and I was able to press the 3/4 finished bushing in place. I even pressed it too far and had to reverse my now quite large contraption of bits:  Then the other side, and finally mounted:  Some measuring and checking that both camber and toe-in were in order and I could finally relax. A bushing not correctly fit for a car that has to drive worries me. I was just going to hook the wheels up and take it for a spin and what do I find:  Yep, that's a screw. And yep, it started leaking as soon as I started bending it out. Then I discovered how well the Mrs. looks out for potholes and curbs:  And you can see the tear right over the damage to the rim:  These are tires with rim protection so that's quite a lot of force. No way I'm going on holiday with such a messed up wheel so now I get to siphon greater Oslo for some bastard of a tire shop that carries Pirelli P Zeros with the correct specs. Never any god drat rest.
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Jul 5, 2015 20:14
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I just bought a 2006 9-3 base from a dealership minutes before it went to auction. Needless to say, I knew what I was getting in to. So far, I've polished up the lights, replaced the spark plugs with resistor plugs, topped off the coolant, and fixed a ton of niggling issues- and am waiting on parts to replace completely broken and/or missing things (like the rear window regulators). It is a pretty good drive: engine is solid and turbo is strong. I wish I took pictures of "before", because the dealership thought that gluing metal (like inside out cola cans) over broken mirrors was "good enough" for resale. Here she is with one polished eye back in place- the other is still curing after gluing broken mounts. drat, I love this car. 
TwoFire fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jul 27, 2015 |
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Jul 27, 2015 03:52
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What did you use to polish the lights? I've got a 2003 9-3 Aero and have tried the toothpaste trick on my driver's side headlight but it's still yellow and grim.
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Jul 27, 2015 22:02
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FiftyFour posted:What did you use to polish the lights? I've got a 2003 9-3 Aero and have tried the toothpaste trick on my driver's side headlight but it's still yellow and grim. I started with toothpaste as a proof of concept. It worked well enough that I bought 3M 180, 800, and 2000 grit. I wetsanded 180 to take all of the yellowing off which was very abrasive, I followed up with the 800, and finished off with the 2000 which made it almost tolerable. I briefly thought about clear coating it, but I decided to err on the side of less work (for now). I polished several times with carnauba wax, instead. I spent about six hours on it, because some previous owner had covered them with some hard resin. Probably a botched clearcoat. TwoFire fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jul 28, 2015 |
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Jul 28, 2015 03:09
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Right headlight and other goodies put back in car. Automatic leveler not working on it (now). 
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Jul 28, 2015 16:47
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I figured a good way to fix the headlight.. buying another same-gen car which doesn't have this problem in the headlights- will exchange headlight to make current car better, and then just get halogens for the other one. 
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Jul 29, 2015 18:13
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Well, that certainly is a way to fix it.
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Jul 30, 2015 00:36
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GokieKS posted:Well, that certainly is a way to fix it. I lied. I haven't bought another car. Yet.
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Jul 30, 2015 03:40
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Getting a bit desperate so I could use any help I can get. My 06 93 Sportscombi Aero has had intermediate start issues for about 3 and half months now. The engine will not crank and the starter doesn't work, all lights come on and a few buzzing sounds and that is it. At first it was only when the engine was hot and I would pour water on what I thought was the NSS. After a month, it then would not start after sitting all night and at random. It has now been in and out of the shop for 2 months and they have run out of ideas and have told me to go else where. They have replaced: -Battery -CIM -Ignition switch -TCU (what I thought was the NSS) -Negative Battery terminal cable -Few wires with high resistance. I have scoured Saab forums with little luck. The only other information I can provide is when it wont start the ABS/Stablity/Traction/Brake error lights are light up full on the dashboard and do not go away when key is in ON position. These would sometimes go off while driving and the speedo/tach full dashboard would both freeze in place when the errors lights appeared. They would either reset further down the road when driving or after the car was turned off for a bit. I also tried jumping the starter relay and it did cause the starter to work but the engine would not start. But I have never gotten the engine to start by just jumping the starter relay. I think this could all be related to some ABS unit malfunction, but I have found very little information about the unit on my Saab, and would not know where to start with it. Thanks
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Jul 30, 2015 23:11
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