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The NA is the only real option. NC just doesnt have good foot room, its borderline and i'm only 6'1'' Bolt a fixed back seat to the floor, no rails. Make sure it has plenty of recline, i put mine bolt upright. You'll need to balance head room vs shin room, but its fine.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 02:14 |
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# ? Apr 19, 2024 07:09 |
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I'm 6'2" and fit fine in my NB. It's not exactly roomy, but it's certainly comfortable enough to daily and I've gone on a few 300km+ trips in it. I must've just lucked out with my specific dimensions.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 02:40 |
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Food for thought. I bought a "for now" car and maybe I'll try going to some miata meets and seeing if I can find any other giants.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 05:01 |
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I'm 6'1 with a 32-33 inseam in the NA. Something about the pedal angle is really bad for my feet if I'm driving barefoot, and I'm definitely going to die if I ever rollover, but other than that it's comfy.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 05:38 |
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HotCanadianChick posted:I'm in the same boat, ten years ago I was pretty drat fluent and knew all the kana and could read kanji at about 2nd grade level but not using it at all for a decade+ is making it hard to remember anything but the most basic grammar. Been over two decades for me. Holy gently caress I'm old
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 06:05 |
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6'4", 32" inseam pants, 255lbs. People stare when I get in/out of the car. Stock wheel, stock seats (all the way back, fully reclined). If I sit up straight my head makes a bump in the soft top, which is why I drop the top whenever I can, even in light rain. With the top up I lean forward slightly or to the right for cruising. I'll never be able to have a hardtop. I installed a CG-Lock for AutoX and that holds me pretty good. I can't heel-toe in the car because my legs are splayed outward to clear the wheel. But goddamn is the car a loving blast to drive on a race spec alignment and Sumitomo P01's. It's worth every bit of the "discomfort" (which I've just become used to in the last two-three years). If a wheel replacement didn't dump me in to CSP I'd have swapped it already, but gently caress CSP.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 07:33 |
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Beach Bum posted:6'4", 32" inseam pants, 255lbs. People stare when I get in/out of the car. Stock wheel, stock seats (all the way back, fully reclined). If I sit up straight my head makes a bump in the soft top, which is why I drop the top whenever I can, even in light rain. With the top up I lean forward slightly or to the right for cruising. I'll never be able to have a hardtop. I installed a CG-Lock for AutoX and that holds me pretty good. I can't heel-toe in the car because my legs are splayed outward to clear the wheel. This is dedication right here. I like it!
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 13:51 |
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For the last few weeks, my 04 MSM has been making a sound quite similar to belt chattering when I start up and for the next 15-20 seconds when I give it a decent amount of gas. I removed each drive belt in turn to figure out which one was causing the problem, before finding that neither of the belts was making the noise. I'm leaning towards there being an issue with either the timing belt idler pulley or the tensioner, but don't really want to commit to doing the timing belt early unless that's really the most likely culprit. Any of you guys have experience with a noise like mine?
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 16:07 |
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http://www.mossmiata.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=125035 Are these Tein coil overs garbage? Currently on sale and pretty cheap.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 16:14 |
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Save your money and get Xidas or Fat Cat coilovers. Or if you're on a tight budget GC sleeves with Konis are the way to go.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 16:31 |
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Is it difficult to upgrade the suspension yourself if you have no experience with that sort of thing?
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 17:35 |
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I just did a shock swap on my Miata for the first time. It's not super hard. The fronts kind of sucked because I thought I was clever and didn't want to do the long-bolt method, but it's nothing that you can't do with a how-to printed out in front of you. You will need a set of coil spring compressors, but you can rent those. It would probably actually be easier with adjustable-perch coilovers rather than stock springs and stockish shocks.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 17:38 |
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I just want to upgrade to something a little more race oriented for autocross but still be able to use it as my daily driver. Also not trying to spend like 2 grand on something like what leica just posted.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 17:42 |
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Konis are an affordable and worthwhile upgrade, I got a set for mine and I like them a lot. Gonna add some GC sleeves when i can find some used at a good price. It's not hard to do suspension work at all, actually it's pretty easy as long as you have the right tools.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 17:59 |
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Partial Octopus posted:I just want to upgrade to something a little more race oriented for autocross but still be able to use it as my daily driver. Also not trying to spend like 2 grand on something like what leica just posted. The Xidas ride better at 700# than a stock setup at 150# on your daily commute.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 18:39 |
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Partial Octopus posted:I just want to upgrade to something a little more race oriented for autocross but still be able to use it as my daily driver. Also not trying to spend like 2 grand on something like what leica just posted. Flyin miata vmaxx classic. I have it its dirt cheap and great. Dont be fooled by the silver shock body with red springs, these arent the notoriously lovely "raceland" coilovers. Do the long bolt method on all four corners. The first one took me an hour, the second a half hour, and the last two 10 minutes. Set the ride height in the front first. anywhere from 12 to 14 inches hub to fender lip depending on your individual car. Set the rear half an inch higher than the front, and get an aggressive alignment. Job done. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jun 9, 2015 |
# ? Jun 9, 2015 18:55 |
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If you're going to have the suspension apart you might as well go all the way and get Xidas instead of something you might want to upgrade later that won't ride as well to begin with.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 20:11 |
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craig588 posted:If you're going to have the suspension apart you might as well go all the way and get Xidas instead of something you might want to upgrade later that won't ride as well to begin with. No no no, you have it all wrong, you see, it's much cheaper to spend $1000 initially and then $2000 later than it is to spend $2000 the first time around.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 20:20 |
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Yeah but not everyone can afford Xidas. I'd love them but I can't justify spending that much money for shocks, I got my Konis slightly used and they are 10 times better than stock so I'm happy. That being said if I was to get coilovers I'd save instead of cheaping out on racelands or some other junk.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 20:22 |
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Partial Octopus posted:Is it difficult to upgrade the suspension yourself if you have no experience with that sort of thing? The great part about swapping out Miata suspension is you don't have to touch anything camber related. I've swapped my suspension about 3 times. The worst part is reaching around the fuel hoses to get to the rear left shock mount.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 20:25 |
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RillAkBea posted:The great part about swapping out Miata suspension is you don't have to touch anything camber related. I've swapped my suspension about 3 times. The worst part is reaching around the fuel hoses to get to the rear left shock mount. And then dropping the nut and cursing for 30 minutes trying to fish it out.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 20:34 |
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Phone posted:And then dropping the nut and cursing for 30 minutes trying to fish it out. After the first time I did this I got smart and stuck a magnet dish nearby. The second time the nut got stuck under the magnet dish's lip which worked out great.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 20:44 |
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RillAkBea posted:The great part about swapping out Miata suspension is you don't have to touch anything camber related. I've swapped my suspension about 3 times. The worst part is reaching around the fuel hoses to get to the rear left shock mount. Haha forgot about that part. But yeah overall it's pretty easy, to get to the rear mounts on my Camry I'm gonna have to take out the rear seat and deck panel just to access the mount nuts so not really looking forward to that, makes Miatas seem like a cake walk.
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# ? Jun 9, 2015 22:35 |
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I do not have thousands to spend on struts, and don't care about adjustable suspension parts. What's the best bang for your buck if you just want something that won't bottom out on speed bumps? This is for a 1999 NB.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 01:14 |
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Nocheez posted:I do not have thousands to spend on struts, and don't care about adjustable suspension parts. What's the best bang for your buck if you just want something that won't bottom out on speed bumps? This is for a 1999 NB. I ordered a bunch of KYB kits from RockAuto to build mine. Shock tops, bumpstops, boots, shock. Good price, and they had a refund program running when I ordered. I think all-in I was under $500, but they're obviously not going to be the best option if you're running higher-rate springs or want some non-stock performance out of them. In the US shocks.com may be a cheaper way to get KYB stuff. For performance on a budget I would look at used parts. Koni Yellows are in the $130/per range ($700 in a kit with springs) on Tire Rack, and have some adjustability, and will probably mandate slightly stiffer springs. Tokicos are probably similar, but I have no experience. You can probably pick up low-mileage used suspension for relatively cheap from the many vendors breaking Miatas out there, or find a local Miata forum where one of the young bucks driving their first NB has speared it into a wall. Put fresh shock tops and bumpstops in and you'll be laughing. Springs are virtually invariant with mileage, so picking up used springs can sometimes be an amazing deal. I've gotten $800 sets of Subaru performance springs for $50 before from part-outs. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jun 10, 2015 |
# ? Jun 10, 2015 01:16 |
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Never used the long bolt method. I just put my foot on the lower control arm/hub and pushed down like a man they dropped right in. For cheap stuff without adjustment I'd just get bilstein take offs and some stiffer springs. I went R package bilsteins and GC coils (450/300 I think) and it was a stiffer ride on my NA for sure. I'd do Xidas if I were in the market again.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 01:29 |
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Koni is alright, too much rebound. Bilsteins are rebuildable/revalveable. KYB and Tokico are both garbage.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 02:19 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You can probably pick up low-mileage used suspension for relatively cheap from the many vendors breaking Miatas out there, or find a local Miata forum where one of the young bucks driving their first NB has speared it into a wall. Put fresh shock tops and bumpstops in and you'll be laughing. Oooh, good call! I'll have to start watching for something like this. If anyone sees something and thinks of me, send me a PM with the post.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 03:55 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You can probably pick up low-mileage used suspension for relatively cheap from the many vendors breaking Miatas out there, or find a local Miata forum where one of the young bucks driving their first NB has speared it into a wall. Put fresh shock tops and bumpstops in and you'll be laughing. That's what i did, kept a look out on the local forum and found a guy that was upgrading to Fat Cats after using Konis for less than a year, got the whole struts with new top hats and FC bump stops for $400, took me about an hour to swap em out. Been waiting on a used set of GC sleeves since I got them, no luck yet.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 05:58 |
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I went ultra cheap and bought sensen oem replacement shocks ($116 for a full set shipped) and honda civic bumpstops ($30 shipped) and am happy with the results
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 07:01 |
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Last weekend, I went to go look at a 1990 NA with 74k miles on the clock. My friend is looking to upgrade to a BRZ The good: Minimal rust - This is an Ohio car. It has been garaged most of its life except for the last month or so. My friend doesn't have a garage. From what I can tell on the underbody, it looks like it's starting to rust. Clutch grips well Top feels good, no holes or anything Everything is stock The bad: Suspension felt like it could use some work, it was a bit squeaky going over bumps A/C doesn't work Cruise Control doesn't work - not sure if it's just the button or the cruise control module itself Probably needs brakes Do you guys think this is worth it? Is there anything else I should look at in particular? I think my friend is looking for around $2800 for this. I'm thinking I could get him down to $2500.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 13:03 |
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Looks clean. See if it's a short nose crank, though. Low enough miles that the timing belt has never been changed most likely. Also that isn't rust, that's nothing. Michigan.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 17:14 |
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Phone posted:No no no, you have it all wrong, you see, it's much cheaper to spend $1000 initially and then $2000 later than it is to spend $2000 the first time around. Actually the cheapest way is to spend $790, be perfectly happy with it, and move on.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 17:14 |
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Larrymer posted:Looks clean. See if it's a short nose crank, though. Low enough miles that the timing belt has never been changed most likely. Will do. Is the timing belt difficult or expensive? I've never really worked on cars so I'm hoping that I'll be able to get my feet wet with this. I'm trying not to become another sperglord firecock. Oh, and compared to what's out there, that's nothing for rust. I've seen the ones on Craigslist with twice the miles, tons of rust, and twice the price.
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# ? Jun 10, 2015 18:00 |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnLaotz-kBY
The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jun 10, 2015 |
# ? Jun 10, 2015 18:08 |
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Whoever set up that suspension needs to be slapped. You can tell just by watching how easily it over steers even without power.
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# ? Jun 11, 2015 01:50 |
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Joe Mama posted:Whoever set up that suspension needs to be slapped. You can tell just by watching how easily it over steers even without power. The suspension setup looks great, turns in off throttle and gets stable back on throttle.
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# ? Jun 11, 2015 04:10 |
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WHOOPSmariooncrack posted:
I have a BRZ and often want to downsize to a clean 1.6L miata. I'd buy it.
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# ? Jun 11, 2015 04:19 |
Chriskory posted:WHOOPS Cool wanna trade?
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# ? Jun 11, 2015 06:10 |
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# ? Apr 19, 2024 07:09 |
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I have come to the realization that I can no longer afford 2 cars so I'm thinking of selling my Miata. Its a 2005 LS manual with around 130,000 mi, I don't know the exact mileage since i have not driven it in about 2 weeks. I have not changed the clutch yet and the diff is starting to make noise. I put a new top on it about 6 months ago but there is some ware in the seats. I live in Ventura county and NB Miatas in so cal have a huge range in price and I'm having trouble figuring out where to start the pricing. Could I get some suggestions on how much to list it for or if anyone here is intrested in it. I don't have any current pictures of it but it is on the stock rims from the first picture but at the ride height of the second.
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# ? Jun 11, 2015 06:48 |