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EightBit posted:You have all the symptoms of a battery failure, don't discount it because everything outside the battery looks peachy keen. Did you at least try to measure the sitting voltage? Electrical systems of all sorts are Voudou to me, but I'd like to change that. I have the ubiquitous HF 7 Function multimeter and should have thought to test the battery. Now I see there are videos on YouTube that could have walked me through it.  I'll call the garage and ask them how the battery tested. It might still be under warranty or at least pro-rated. Boyfriend bought it while I was in jail so I don't know the model offhand and paperwork is in the glovebox, the documents of which I need to scan anyway. Thanks for reminding me!
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Jun 12, 2015 04:04
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Has anyone ever encountered intermittent rod knock? My 06 Evo is making a noise that sounds like rod knock at idle and very low rpm that goes away when I Rev 1500+. it started half way through my 500MI road trip when I noticed it while stopped at a gas station. The thing is, at the next gas stop, I didn't hear the noise at all. I popped the hood at idle and it sounded perfect. Then the next gas station I heard it again at idle. Then I finally got home and I'm not hearing it at all now. I'm kinda making GBS threads bricks about this.
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Jun 12, 2015 04:34
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Did you try shutting off A/C to see if it went away? That's the first thing I'd always check. Beyond that... my car's original engine kinda acted like that depending on engine temperature when it first started knocking, it eventually spun a bearing. Best i could say is get a mechanic's stethoscope and poke around sometime when you can hear it to try and locate the source.
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Jun 12, 2015 04:42
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Yeah, I had the ac off. Good call I'm going to keep a stethoscope with me. and ratchet too so I can briefly remove the serpentine belt in hopes that it's an accessory
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Jun 12, 2015 04:52
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Any idea what this is? 
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Jun 12, 2015 06:05
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CharlesM posted:Any idea what this is? Duesenberg, I think? Early 1940's?
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Jun 12, 2015 06:14
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Well, it looks like one, but would be a replica. Had one of those sweeping speedometers from a 50-70s American car. Wish I got a second look, was walking my dog. :P
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Jun 12, 2015 06:21
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CharlesM posted:Well, it looks like one, but would be a replica. Had one of those sweeping speedometers from a 50-70s American car. Wish I got a second look, was walking my dog. :P Yeah, was about to edit my post to add that it occurred to me to be kit/repro. 30's-style seemed so unlikely to me to be on the street, but as a copy... much more likely. e: Former movie prop car, perhaps? I don't know these cars well, but I can't put my finger on why it seems "off" to me. Arriviste fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jun 12, 2015 |
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Jun 12, 2015 06:25
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What's the quality like on mid-2000s Saabs? Also, are they back making cars again? Is it stupid to think about getting a '04 9-3, or are there parts available for these things? Or have they always been expensive to maintain? I should just be looking at a Honda Civic, right?
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Jun 12, 2015 07:37
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Detective Thompson posted:What's the quality like on mid-2000s Saabs? Also, are they back making cars again? Is it stupid to think about getting a '04 9-3, or are there parts available for these things? Or have they always been expensive to maintain? I should just be looking at a Honda Civic, right? Garbage. Nope. Yes, but not for parts reasons; shittyness reasons. Yes. Yes.
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Jun 12, 2015 08:38
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ROFLburger posted:Has anyone ever encountered intermittent rod knock? That sounds a lot more like piston slap then rod knock.
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Jun 12, 2015 17:06
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Update on Red Dwarf: Spoke with the owner of the garage and he kindly walked me through the diagnosis. Juice goes in but doesn't go out of the starter, basically. Battery tests fine now and once they get it running they'll check it out again. Starter has to be ordered and they hope to have it finished in time for me to drive to teach class Monday night. CSB time: The flatbed driver who took me to the garage told me about the 4WD version of my truck that he and his work partner used in construction gigs. Put over 400K miles on it and, once they got flush with cash, they bought a new truck just because and parked the Nissan. It sat for a couple of years until a buddy fresh out of prison needed it and it's still puttering the roads to this day. D'aww.
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Jun 12, 2015 17:17
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wormil posted:'99 F150, 4.6L, 178k miles, Auto, 2wd VelociBacon posted:It communicates the speed of the tranny or output shaft to the computer that decides what to do with the solenoids and loading and such within the tranny. I had this sensor go bad on a 95 ford explorer I used to own and it also was down on power, hard shifts as well. Do you have a flashing CEL? Replaced the speed sensor and my hopes were dashed, the lack of power problem remains. Anyone have another suggestion? No CEL, no other codes. Could it be plugs/wires/ or coil packs and not throw a code?
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Jun 12, 2015 23:10
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Motronic posted:That sounds a lot more like piston slap then rod knock. Yeah, that's what my 4.0 did for a while before it munched the piston completely.
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Jun 12, 2015 23:45
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EightBit posted:Yeah, that's what my 4.0 did for a while before it munched the piston completely. And my 4.6 ford mod motor did it from about 36,001 miles until I sold it at 220k. As far as I know it's still going. Sometimes it's not a big deal, just annoying. Not sure on the motor ROFLburger is talking about.
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Jun 13, 2015 01:34
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wormil posted:Replaced the speed sensor and my hopes were dashed, the lack of power problem remains. Mine did that whenever a coil was about to poo poo itself. There was a way with Torque app and a OBD2 Bluetooth adapter that I was able to see the number of misfires on an individual cylinder. The problem was it took an insane number of them to actually trip the CEL or even set a pending code. Viewing them in torque it was real easy to see which coil was acting up.
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Jun 13, 2015 02:18
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If i take the radiator cap off and start the car and a tonne of coolant comes out, thats a headgasket isnt it? Car doesnt overheat though, if anything it runs a little cold. 05 wrx.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:48
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rdb posted:Mine did that whenever a coil was about to poo poo itself. There was a way with Torque app and a OBD2 Bluetooth adapter that I was able to see the number of misfires on an individual cylinder. The problem was it took an insane number of them to actually trip the CEL or even set a pending code. Viewing them in torque it was real easy to see which coil was acting up. I'll look into it. I always thought a misfire or anything like that would immediately trigger a code, guess not.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:22
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:If i take the radiator cap off and start the car and a tonne of coolant comes out, thats a headgasket isnt it? Car doesnt overheat though, if anything it runs a little cold. The symptoms certainly point at it. I'd grab a tester and see if you get any combustion products in it.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:37
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Arriviste posted:CSB time: The flatbed driver who took me to the garage told me about the 4WD version of my truck that he and his work partner used in construction gigs. Put over 400K miles on it and, once they got flush with cash, they bought a new truck just because and parked the Nissan. It sat for a couple of years until a buddy fresh out of prison needed it and it's still puttering the roads to this day. D'aww. When I first got into this whole pizza delivery thing (way back in the stone ages... well, Feb of 2000), the driver who showed me the ropes was driving a 1989 Nissan pickup (IIRC she bought it new, or with pretty low miles?). It had over 300k on it, all she'd ever done was a clutch, a rear end (probably ignored a leak), and a steering rack (or steering box, whatever they use). KA24 instead of the VG30, but still a tough bastard of a truck. This is one of the few areas of the country where they don't fall apart from rust.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:54
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Hey knowledgable car folks. What would you advise as the best way to fix this break in my exhaust? Doubt it matters, but its a 2006 Toyota Corolla. Break is in the rear of the system, on the cat side.  I am assuming one of those 2 piece flange kits? Edit: Thinking something like this, along with a new gasket. I can only assume the old one will crumble once I unbolt it. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/walker-flange-repair-kit-fits-2-od-pipe-36132/26010005-P Moey fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jun 13, 2015 |
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Jun 13, 2015 19:15
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Moey posted:Hey knowledgable car folks. What would you advise as the best way to fix this break in my exhaust? Go to an exhaust shop and have them weld it back on or replace that section of pipe. Shouldn't be more than $100.
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Jun 13, 2015 19:55
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VelociBacon posted:Go to an exhaust shop and have them weld it back on or replace that section of pipe. Shouldn't be more than $100. Thanks. I don't currently have access to my welder/angle grinder or that is what I would do myself. Just thinking of something I can do myself today.
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Jun 13, 2015 20:13
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I have a small oil leak and today I noticed my powerband was kind of lumpy. Is this a symptom of low oil? I noticed something similar when I had first filled it, but I think I overfilled it because it went away after a day or so. I just don't want to gently caress up my car, and it's a while before my oil is due again. I might just do it early and put that spare crush washer in between the Fumoto washer and the pan. Would that be a good idea, or would doubling up on gaskets make it worse? I could try taking the rubber gasket off and just using the crush washer, but I'm not sure that would help. I haven't looked at them side by side, but I think the Fumoto gasket is thicker. e: I guess if it would be bad, I could take the rubber washer to Home Depot and see if they've got anything like it, but thicker.
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Jun 13, 2015 23:19
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My AC was occasionally turning on/off last year (pretty cold when it was cold, not at all cold when it wasn't cold) and just shut off completely off in the middle of driving this summer. I was skeptical that it could be pressure given the black and white nature but then read (briefly) that there is a pressure threshold which could possibly cause this. Anyway, I bought the kit and when I plugged it in the pressure gauge needle flipped around almost 360 degrees going way off the chart and stopping just below the blue. I didn't realize at first and started adding coolant thinking, because it was just below the blue, that it was too low. It actually did move about 10 degrees until it got stuck on the wrong side of the lower limit pin. In about 5 minutes until I put the pieces together as to what was happening the can didn't get noticeably lighter. Removing it from the car causes the needle to flip back around to the proper side of the lower limit pin as I'd expect. So what the hell. Is it just a bad gauge, did I do something really stupid, or is something wrong with the car (07 Honda Fit). asdf32 fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 01:40
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asdf32 posted:My AC was occasionally turning on/off last year (pretty cold when it was cold, not at all cold when it wasn't cold) and just shut off completely off in the middle of driving this summer. Please put down the cheapie recharge kit and start at the beginning of my AC thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944
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Jun 14, 2015 02:03
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Trip report 02 Mazda Tribute: Just got back from a 230ish mile road trip and I'm not overly impressed. It ran ok, stuttered a little on uphills w/ac running. It has not much for torque, so no idling out from a stop in first. The shifting is not really precise but not mushy either. It handled ok, was not the fastest thing on the road as I had to push it a bit to hold 70 with traffic. When there was nobody behind me, it felt happiest at about 65 and 2950rpm. Lots of wind noise, seats are meh, sound system useless. I haven't checked the mpg yet, but I don't expect greatness there. All in all, I think it's worth $1500 but not much more than that.
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Jun 14, 2015 03:28
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Nothing wrong with spending that much money on something to get you around while you work on your life. I've had a $500 ford explorer, $750 pathfinder, $1000 supra made from 2 supras and a grand national, etc. Without lovely cars you don't appreciate your nice ones.
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Jun 14, 2015 03:32
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VelociBacon posted:$1000 supra made from 2 supras and a grand national I want to know more about this supra. What Grand National parts did it have?
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Jun 14, 2015 03:37
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Safety Dance posted:I want to know more about this supra. What Grand National parts did it have? Something to do with the boost controller and half the vacuum hoses. The story is the guy I bought it from crashed a supra into a ditch, had another one in his driveway for parts, ended up swapping everything into the other car (an 87). This is almost 10 years ago but:
Unfortunately I only have this one lovely photo of the car, from when I pulled it into my work (was working in a machine shop back then) to try to fix that throttle body. Yes it's missing a glovebox. 
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Jun 14, 2015 04:13
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Where would be the best place to look for advice on problems with a 12v electric system on a boat? Buying a multimeter and smoking most of a pack of cigarettes while scratching my head didn't get me too close to figuring it out yesterday.
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Jun 14, 2015 05:01
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I'd start with a google search for the boat model and "electrical problem" or a couple of more specific keywords. This is usually what I do with cars, and it typically brings up good forums for future reference. Hell, if the boat world is like the car world, that model probably has a dedicated community.
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Jun 14, 2015 05:02
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Stupid question inbound. I left my 2010 Golf parked in my apartment's outdoor parking lot in the middle of May. I'm coming back the first week of August. Because it's outside, I didn't have the option of connecting one of those battery trickle charger things to the car, and am now unsure, after Google, whether having a friend idle the car for fifteen minutes every two weeks will do more harm than good. She can't drive the car because it's a stick. The battery was recently replaced and my dad thinks it'll be fine but due to the nature of the crazy alarm/immobilizer in that car, I'm concerned. What should I do? gnrk fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 08:59
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gnrk posted:Stupid question inbound. Idling the car for 15 min will do nothing. May to August isn't that crazy a stretch and the new battery in the newish car shouldn't have any problems. Your friend who apparently has access to the keys might be well served to disconnect the battery terminals if you think they can safely do that but I don't think it'll matter.
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Jun 14, 2015 09:16
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You've allowed me to sleep tonight. Thanks!
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Jun 14, 2015 09:50
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gnrk posted:Stupid question inbound. Your dad is right. It's two months, not two years. Just leave it.
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Jun 14, 2015 11:51
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Godholio posted:I'd start with a google search for the boat model and "electrical problem" or a couple of more specific keywords. This is usually what I do with cars, and it typically brings up good forums for future reference. Hell, if the boat world is like the car world, that model probably has a dedicated community. I've tried that and I've not come up with anything specific to the equipment on my boat. It's a fairly unique design built in the 60's rewired in the early 2000's. Is there a good basic wiring primer website out there?
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Jun 14, 2015 13:27
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SomeDrunkenMick posted:I've tried that and I've not come up with anything specific to the equipment on my boat. It's a fairly unique design built in the 60's rewired in the early 2000's. Is there a good basic wiring primer website out there? Depending on what the problem is, you might just start at whatever device isn't working right and start tracing the wires checking for continuity as you go. Jiggle the wires and any plugs too while you're doing that to check for unreliable connections.
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Jun 14, 2015 13:45
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SomeDrunkenMick posted:Where would be the best place to look for advice on problems with a 12v electric system on a boat? Buying a multimeter and smoking most of a pack of cigarettes while scratching my head didn't get me too close to figuring it out yesterday. Try this thread. It's the most recent boat thread that I know of. I rewired a 26' boat from scratch and know some stuff. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3503087&pagenumber=6
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Jun 14, 2015 14:01
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Yesterday afternoon my truck wouldn't start and it was most likely the battery not having enough charge -- I could hear the starter trying to work. It's an '06 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 V6/Automatic. I got a jump and then about half a mile from my house I gave it some gas to get up a hill and the entire engine cut out. Got another jump and saw that when we were applying the jumper cables it wasn't even arcing you'd normally -- the battery was dead in the water and not even taking a charge. The battery was manufactured in Apr-2012, think I just got a dud? I swapped it out for a new one, I just want to see if there's any ideas as to what can cause this or if it's just poo poo luck. I got a new alternator around the same time in June of 2012 so I doubt (hope) it's that.
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Jun 14, 2015 14:48
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