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quote:On a tight back road, this thing will destroy just about anything under about $150k on OEM tires. Imagine what a great set of tires will do. Car sounds incredible right out of the box.
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Jun 14, 2015 05:02
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 21:43 |
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Being poor loving sucks.
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Jun 14, 2015 05:06
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On the bright side, Mazda will be practically giving away any remaining NCs because no one will want one now 
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Jun 14, 2015 05:43
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But... but the power 
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Jun 14, 2015 12:50
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Edmund Honda posted:But... but the power I was about to say...how many posts took place before m.net crucified him as a heretic?
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Jun 14, 2015 13:54
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quote:Succinctly, the car feels like an NA with a built NB2 engine and 6 speed. If that's not good enough you should probably just shut the gently caress up and get a Mustang. Copy and paste that to everyone that complains on mnet.
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Jun 14, 2015 17:02
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Goober Peas posted:I was about to say...how many posts took place before m.net crucified him as a heretic? He posted it on MT.
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Jun 14, 2015 18:01
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So... if my car has Flyin' Miata 2.5 suspension. I won't lie, my 1st miata was from a fellow goon and more or less stock '95. This thing I got from the middle of nowhere Oregon and has had a lot of stuff done on it. It is basically track ready when I got it, but I like hiking. The 12.5"/13" ride height though means that even a steep driveway can pose a problem for me. It's okay to replace the suspension... right? I'm not going to immediately go to miata hell. And if I do, is there a market at all for the used kit?
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Jun 14, 2015 19:17
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1st_Panzer_Div. posted:So... if my car has Flyin' Miata 2.5 suspension. I won't lie, my 1st miata was from a fellow goon and more or less stock '95. This thing I got from the middle of nowhere Oregon and has had a lot of stuff done on it. It is basically track ready when I got it, but I like hiking. The 12.5"/13" ride height though means that even a steep driveway can pose a problem for me. No. That suspension is ok but it's not like you're saying "Xidas suck" or something. I sold my stage 2 set within a couple days of posting it on CL. And replacing it with what? If you want a stock suspension you should be able to get that or MSM take-offs fairly easily. Otherwise there are a plethora of aftermarket choices that have all been discussed to no end here and other places. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 19:50
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Joe Mama posted:No. That suspension is ok but it's not like you're saying "Xidas suck" or something. I sold my stage 2 set within a couple days of posting it on CL. And replacing it with what? If you want a stock suspension you should be able to get that or MSM take-offs fairly easily. Otherwise there are a plethora of aftermarket choices that have all been discussed to no end here and other places. The with what I'm still working on, but not something to be quite the low-rider I am at the moment, there are in fact 10,000,000 opinions on them here and elsewhere though. 1st_Panzer_Div. fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 21:34
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Frankly, when I used to do a lot of kayaking and hiking I had my miata at stock height (NA) and I dont think I would have wanted it any lower for what I was doing. There were plenty of places I still couldn't go.
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Jun 14, 2015 21:47
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I got a 1.8 NA (1997), with no AC in it. Here's what the controls look like, if that is of any relevance (and for those of you who have never seen a Miata without AC): There seems to be something wonky with the ductwork in it, as the "down at my feet" vent blows really really hot air. When I have the lever in any of the positions that sends air downwards (the three middle ones), it seems I'm getting the hottest air possible. The air through the other vents that might be blowing at the same time is cool. If I have heat on and the lever in the leftmost position (through the four round dash vents) and then move it to the second position (those same vents + feet), the air through the dash vents gets noticeably cooler (but still a little bit heated) while I get the furnace going down below. So, it just seems almost all the heat ends up going straight down there for some reason. Only exception is if I have the heater lever far left, then I get cool air all around, feet included. Just one little bit above that, it gets hot. I haven't really thought much about it except today when it was cold and raining and I needed the defroster, and my feet got awfully warm. Would like to sort it out. What could be wrong or broken to cause this?
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Jun 14, 2015 22:01
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Doing a clutch job this weekend on my 90 Miata, kinda need it for work tomorrow. I have the trans out and the old flywheel doesn't look to bad. Cleaned it with an Emory cloth. I forgot that if I don't pull the flywheel I need a puller to get the pilot bearing out. How bad would it be if I left the old one? Car has 120k and it looks like this was the original clutch. Car is all stock and I'm putting in a exedy oem style clutch from Flyin Miata.
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Jun 14, 2015 22:56
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ionn posted:There seems to be something wonky with the ductwork in it, as the "down at my feet" vent blows really really hot air. That's pretty normal for Miatas, you're getting hot air from the engine bay coming into the cabin into the pocket of air that is the footwell. Replacing the seal between the firewall and hood can help if it's shot. Otherwise just keep the air selector on circulate to minimize it. You can also buy an air scoop that brings in outside air and forces it into the footwell to get out any of the hot air that lingers in there. I haven't tried one yet but people seem to love them.
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Jun 14, 2015 23:27
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moloo posted:Doing a clutch job this weekend on my 90 Miata, kinda need it for work tomorrow. I have the trans out and the old flywheel doesn't look to bad. Cleaned it with an Emory cloth. I forgot that if I don't pull the flywheel I need a puller to get the pilot bearing out. That pilot goes pretty often and makes a loving racket. I'd just replace it and pop it out with socket or something. I can't remember exactly how I popped it out but I never needed a special tool to do it. I've cleaned a flywheel with low miles on it with only an emery cloth and it's gotten me by before.
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Jun 14, 2015 23:39
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I've heard of people packing the hole with grease and using a close fitting dowel to force the bearing loose via pneumatic pressure. Never tried it myself, though.
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Jun 15, 2015 00:34
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Larrymer posted:That pilot goes pretty often and makes a loving racket. I'd just replace it and pop it out with socket or something. I can't remember exactly how I popped it out but I never needed a special tool to do it. I've cleaned a flywheel with low miles on it with only an emery cloth and it's gotten me by before. Your post made me give it a go with improvised tools. I used an oil filter socket, a bolt with a nut on it, and an Allen wrench to fill the gap. I thought the bolt head was just slipping while I was turning the wrench on the nut but I kept going for a few seconds and the bearing just popped right out fairly climatically. Thanks! Nocheez posted:I've heard of people packing the hole with grease and using a close fitting dowel to force the bearing loose via pneumatic pressure. Never tried it myself, though. I saw a video of this on YouTube and am positive I would have just ended up with grease everywhere.
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Jun 15, 2015 01:31
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Glad it worked.  Now don't pound the new one in too far. Edit: Selling the Spec Miata that never was.  http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5074738016.html Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 03:10
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leica posted:That's pretty normal for Miatas, you're getting hot air from the engine bay coming into the cabin into the pocket of air that is the footwell. Replacing the seal between the firewall and hood can help if it's shot. Otherwise just keep the air selector on circulate to minimize it. You can also buy an air scoop that brings in outside air and forces it into the footwell to get out any of the hot air that lingers in there. I haven't tried one yet but people seem to love them. I also first thought it was stray heat from the engine/exhaust/gearbox/something, but it doesn't add up. If I have the thing set to "blow at my feet only" (the middle position) and I have the "temperatyre" lever all the way to the left / blue, I get cool air (unheated outside air), even when everything is up at full working temp. If I move the lever one little bit away from far left, I get full heat. It is as far as I can tell the same temperature through the lower vents at "just slightly off full left / blue" as it is in "far right / red", and at full heat I get the same temperature at my feet as through the other vents. When I have no heat going at all (heater all the way to blue, fan off), I don't notice any heat coming through from the engine. Only thing is the shifter boot seems a bit warm, everything else seems well insulated. How does the ventilation ducts work for the Miata? Other cars I've seen first have one barn door valve thing for selecting/blending hot and cold air, and then something to send it to various exhaust ports. The thing I can think of that would explain what I believe I'm seeing is if the NA Miata has a separate hot/cold blend door for the lower vents and that one is stuck open, and the only time I get cold air there is at "full cold" when the actual hot water supply to the heater core is shut. But I may just be imagining things. Edit: Found a service manual with an exploded view of the whole heater/ventilation system, and it seems there are two doors for air-mix (hot/cold) and four other doors for airflow mode (which vents are used). I guess I'll have to take that unit apart to check, but it seems to me one of the air-mix doors could just be stuck open. ionn fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 10:49
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BMW spare jack turns out to be an excellent way to tilt the motor back to mate it with the transmission if you don't have another person to help:
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Jun 15, 2015 16:50
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So the plastic connector for my headlight bulb (NB Miata) won't release one side. I tried for 20 minutes and gave up because it was hot as balls. Other side comes out fine. Any ideas on how to get this sucker out a different way?
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Jun 15, 2015 17:21
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moloo posted:BMW spare jack turns out to be an excellent way to tilt the motor back to mate it with the transmission if you don't have another person to help: My radiator was almost up for replacement anyway so I just jammed an extension between the radiator and the timing cover
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Jun 15, 2015 17:49
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djfooboo posted:So the plastic connector for my headlight bulb (NB Miata) won't release one side. I tried for 20 minutes and gave up because it was hot as balls. Other side comes out fine. Any ideas on how to get this sucker out a different way? Slice it out and replace it with a ceramic connector because the plastic ones just melt and make it a pain in the rear end to change bulbs. I'm slightly bitter.
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Jun 16, 2015 05:50
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Lyesh posted:Slice it out and replace it with a ceramic connector because the plastic ones just melt and make it a pain in the rear end to change bulbs. Autozone guy was able to wrestle it out. Liberal application of bulb grease on the new one.
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Jun 16, 2015 13:16
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And a set of the ND OEM alloys with barely used tires has already shown up on Yahoo auctions. 
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Jun 16, 2015 15:14
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The car's been out for like 2 months. Cars aren't gonna stance themselves, dude. post sponsored by garage vary
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Jun 16, 2015 15:23
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The ND would look pretty sweet with black Watanabes 
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Jun 16, 2015 16:40
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Am I a bad person for wanting a blinged out power hard top ND. I don't really race my NA or anything
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Jun 16, 2015 18:42
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A MIRACLE posted:Am I a bad person for wanting a blinged out power hard top ND. I don't really race my NA or anything No, I bet it will come after the normals have been on sale a while. The take rate was pretty high on PRHT.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:03
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How noticeable is the hit on handling with the PRHT? I wanted one but then I realized it would probably be an extra ~100lbs set up high.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:18
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A MIRACLE posted:Am I a bad person for wanting a blinged out power hard top ND. I don't really race my NA or anything I'd buy the poo poo out of an ND PRHT.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:18
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djfooboo posted:Autozone guy was able to wrestle it out. Liberal application of bulb grease on the new one. Definitely make sure there isn't corrosion on there now. I'm pretty sure that what happens is that as the connector corrodes, the resistance at the connection slowly goes up and eventually the plastic housing melts onto plug on the bulb. I just had a lot of trouble with the headlights with my NB due to exactly this, and it was a huge pain to figure it out.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:46
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Lyesh posted:Definitely make sure there isn't corrosion on there now. I'm pretty sure that what happens is that as the connector corrodes, the resistance at the connection slowly goes up and eventually the plastic housing melts onto plug on the bulb. I just had a lot of trouble with the headlights with my NB due to exactly this, and it was a huge pain to figure it out. I think I might have this happening right now - I thought one of the headlights was dead again until I wiggled the connector a bit, which fixed it for a while. So if there's corrosion developing there, that would totally explain why it seems to get worse with time. Which connector did you use to replace it?
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Jun 17, 2015 07:32
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A MIRACLE posted:Am I a bad person for wanting a blinged out power hard top ND. I don't really race my NA or anything No, I'm a little older now and I wish I'd waited for a PRHT Automatic miata to just to tool around in. It'd be the perfect compromise car. Most of my driving is stop&go city, most evenings I'm top up. It'd be quieter than the miniature conestoga wagon. I guess an SLK or Z4 would also be nice, but I don't want to have a AAA membership
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Jun 17, 2015 11:24
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mobby_6kl posted:I think I might have this happening right now - I thought one of the headlights was dead again until I wiggled the connector a bit, which fixed it for a while. So if there's corrosion developing there, that would totally explain why it seems to get worse with time. Which connector did you use to replace it? I got something like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Socket-Replacement-Yellow-Light/dp/B00DN68RGW that has crimp-on contacts for the wires that snap into the housing. It's a pretty simple connector, so it's not at all bad to replace.
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Jun 17, 2015 17:46
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BloodBag posted:No, I'm a little older now and I wish I'd waited for a PRHT FTFY
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Jun 18, 2015 01:57
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Poe's Law is strong with the ND. Destructo was asking if it's possible to swap in a 94-97 dash on mnet and it migrated to MT. Also, according to mnetters, bringing up the definition of a unibody car is "semantics" when they're comparing it to the backbone frame of the Elan.
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Jun 18, 2015 17:01
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So I finished putting this Flyin Miata OE style clutch in my NA6 this weekend. Everything is working fine except it's not going into third or reverse as easy as it used to. For third, I have to go more to up and right while before it was much more just push forward and click i'm in. Reverse is weird because I can't go full right then down anymore. I have to go full right, back left a bit, and then down. I bled the clutch and did the pedal height/master cylinder adjustment as per Flyin Miata. I used two quarts of Mobil 1 75w90 in the tranny and 90cc exact in the turret. Temp here has been around 70F. Everything installed correctly to torque specs.
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Jun 19, 2015 17:44
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Man, another bad FM clutch story? I'd contact FM right away.
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Jun 19, 2015 19:22
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destructo posted:Man, another bad FM clutch story? I'd contact FM right away. Would it be related to the clutch? I tested it while it was still on jackstands after I corrected the pedal/mastercylinder. I started the car, put it in gear, and gently let out the clutch. Rear wheels didn't start spinning until I let the clutch out a bit. So since the clutch is fully disengaging when I shift I was thinking it might be related to the change to brand new fluid or something.
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Jun 19, 2015 19:33
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