|
Geoj posted:Do you mean calipers/drums? You really shouldn't paint the hubs...  It's the only tatty area on an otherwise surprisingly mint car. Ideally it would be something that dries quite quickly, since the work will have to be done in a community car park and I don't want to leave it up on stands/jack unattended.
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2015 19:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
I think I'll finally have some time this weekend to take out the analog instrument cluster in my 1995 Nissan XE p/u and try to solve the intermittent speedo/odo puzzle. I plan to clean with DeoxIt, tighten screws, and possibly reflow any janky-looking connections. Truck throws no codes, no CEL, and the speedo can be revived|killed by a good thump on the dashboard or by a bump in the road. If this brings back my cruise control, too, (yup, manual w/ cruise!) then HUZZAH. I'm going to try this first and hope that I don't also need a new VSS. So my question: Do I need to disconnect the negative battery cable before I start playing around in my nicotine goo vault?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2015 21:29
|
|
|
You're going to have to clean that up before you can paint them. If you cover up the rust it will just continue to spread. Realistically I'd suggest completely removing the calipers and brackets so you can wire wheel them down to shiny bare metal before priming and painting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 00:40
|
|
|
Arriviste posted:I think I'll finally have some time this weekend to take out the analog instrument cluster in my 1995 Nissan XE p/u and try to solve the intermittent speedo/odo puzzle. I plan to clean with DeoxIt, tighten screws, and possibly reflow any janky-looking connections. Truck throws no codes, no CEL, and the speedo can be revived|killed by a good thump on the dashboard or by a bump in the road. If this brings back my cruise control, too, (yup, manual w/ cruise!) then HUZZAH. I'm going to try this first and hope that I don't also need a new VSS. Generally on any electrical work you're supposed to disconnect the cable just so you don't get transient current spikes loving anything up. That said, on a truck of that vintage I think you'd be fine just leaving it as is, it's not like 12V is hazardous (outside of short circuits/arcing causing fires, i mean the voltage itself) and it's not like it has a whole lot of OBD2 monitors to reset either way. If your work doesn't fix the cruise control, models that age usually used vacuum units, so check the vaccum hose and the diaphragm that works the second throttle cable before just throwing a VSS at it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 01:59
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Generally on any electrical work you're supposed to disconnect the cable just so you don't get transient current spikes loving anything up. That said, on a truck of that vintage I think you'd be fine just leaving it as is, it's not like 12V is hazardous (outside of short circuits/arcing causing fires, i mean the voltage itself) and it's not like it has a whole lot of OBD2 monitors to reset either way. Thanks for the advice. The fewer wiring components I have to wiggle, the better, I think. I imagine a cascading effect like trying to replace one section of home plumbing that pushes otherwise working parts out of whack. Good to know about the hose & diaphragm, too. I'm pretty sure the cruise control was still working even though the speedometer was already acting up when I parked it to go to jail. I could be not remembering the details correctly. After all, I was drinking (and toking) to excess back then.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 04:00
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:GO with slightly more expensive crimps with the heat-shrink already on them. Just because they've got plastic around them doesn't mean the plastic is heat-shrink. Thanks. The only ones they had with heat-shrink already on were too small but I found some naked crimps and heat-shrinked them myself.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 13:17
|
|
|
How does someone become a better driver? I'm not really sure how I got here, but I've never hit anyone and I have a pretty good driving record. However, my wife basically drives our car into something once a month and it's becoming very expensive and I worry a lot that she's going to die or hurt someone with the car. She wants to improve and feels bad about her driving, but what do we even do? Do race schools help with regular road driving? At this point the $600+ price tag would almost be a worthwhile investment if it works.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 21:29
|
|
|
Santheb posted:Edit: the mechanic that usually helps me out came by today and said it wasn't the alternator because the car didn't shut off when I had it running and he pulled off the negative terminal. That doesn't really tell you as much as it used to, but it is pretty likely that the alternator is doing its job if the vehicle isn't stalling out randomly due to lack of juice. However, even if it was, modern electrical systems depend on the battery to work properly - I've seen dead batteries lead a car to stall even with a working alternator. The only other real alternatives are going to be: *Starter going bad - unlikely if it works when you get a jump, but not impossible *Neutral safety switch - when it fails to start, does it make any noise at all? If it doesn't even so much as 'click', try shifting from P to N and starting. *Battery cables - most likely behind the battery itself. tuyop posted:How does someone become a better driver? Most race schools offer a defensive driving class that focuses less on "nailing the apex" and more on "how not to be an idiot behind the wheel". I took this class at Bondurant (thanks to a gift certificate) and while they discuss a bit of racecraft here and there, the majority of it is trying to get you used to where you should be looking while driving (a lot further ahead than your front bumper) as well as how capable a car is (i.e. how to swerve properly instead of just slamming on the brakes). IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jun 18, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 21:38
|
|
|
I have an 02 Toyota Camry that I got after school that is still mechanically sound but the clear coat is peeling bad now on the trunk/hood/roof. I need to get it painted but the first shop I went to quoted me 3k for just those parts, and like 5k for a whole paint job. What in the actual gently caress??? I feel like Im better off just getting into an accident with like a concrete divider and having insurance pay for it if its that much. I'm gonna look around more this weekend but is that a typical price range I should be prepared for? Im just like jesus, thats a partial/full down payment on a new/used car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 21:49
|
|
|
FlyingCowOfDoom posted:I have an 02 Toyota Camry that I got after school that is still mechanically sound but the clear coat is peeling bad now on the trunk/hood/roof. I need to get it painted but the first shop I went to quoted me 3k for just those parts, and like 5k for a whole paint job. What in the actual gently caress??? I feel like Im better off just getting into an accident with like a concrete divider and having insurance pay for it if its that much. I'm gonna look around more this weekend but is that a typical price range I should be prepared for? Im just like jesus, thats a partial/full down payment on a new/used car. It's a loving camry. $3k at a good paint shop will get you a pretty decent paint job for your nice car. For under $1000 at Maaco or a similar place you'll get a paint job that's good enough for a 2002 camry. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jun 18, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:It's a loving camry. Go to Maaco and tell them HI I HAVE 500 DOLLARS DO U GUYS PAINT THINGS CUZ I HAVE A CAR?!!? gently caress thats the name of the place, I was trying to remember all the old commercials I had seen but couldnt so was just contacting local shops, thank you!! Never had to get paint work done before so when he showed me that paper with 3k on it my jaw loving dropped.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 22:00
|
|
|
tuyop posted:How does someone become a better driver? Also, for all the bumps she's had so far, some debriefing and analysis may help. What did she hit? Why did she hit it? What did she miss as the situation developed that could have helped? Everyone fucks up sometimes, but knowing how and why is what stops it repeating too often.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 22:28
|
|
|
tuyop posted:How does someone become a better driver? First thing to do: make sure she's not using her phone while driving. That's GOT to be the biggest problem on the road today. Even the Stig can't hit an apex if he's facebooking.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 22:30
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Even the Stig can't hit an apex if he's facebooking. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 22:34
|
|
|
FlyingCowOfDoom posted:gently caress thats the name of the place, I was trying to remember all the old commercials I had seen but couldnt so was just contacting local shops, thank you!! Never had to get paint work done before so when he showed me that paper with 3k on it my jaw loving dropped. Be forewarned, the quality of the paint work is going to be in line with the minimal money you are putting into it (i.e. absolute poo poo). If you put in a lot of labor yourself, you can get it up to "decent" - case in point: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTZyhbHmcIs&t=106s
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 22:49
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:First thing to do: make sure she's not using her phone while driving. That's GOT to be the biggest problem on the road today. Even the Stig can't hit an apex if he's facebooking. Well, she's a grown woman and I'm pretty sure she's able to police her own phone use habits. But yeah, neither of us use our phones when driving except as GPSs. InitialDave posted:What IOC said, plus I always believe that increasing somone's understanding of how a car works, and what exactly you're asking it to do and what's involved, makes you a better driver. It's usually while parking. Running into the garage, curbs (loving constantly with the curbs), poles, other cars. She rear-ended someone last year and that was a pretty dear repair as well. It seems like it's a problem with knowing where the corners of the car are and this may be the car's fault because it has a relatively high beltline and she's very short. I was also thinking autocross might be a cheap way to improve this part of it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 23:01
|
|
|
No, I've driven plenty of vehicles with poo poo visibility and didn't have issues with hitting everything around me. It might not be correctable, just to be honest. Some people just don't have the spatial awareness wired up in their brains.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 23:41
|
|
|
Someone of adult age so bad at driving that they're constantly hitting poo poo is that way because they don't have an interest in driving. Don't get her to do autocross she'll hate it and won't learn anything. Get a civic or other cheap car for that persons next vehicle and steel rims. E: or just regular driving lessons.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 23:46
|
|
|
Try getting her to dip the kerbside mirror when reverse parking, so she can see where the rear tyre is in relation to the kerb, and help her get close without scuffing. Though nothing can help if it really is just inherent lack of awareness, interest, or resignation that "I just can't do it".
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 23:52
|
|
|
A/C questions, Civic Si 2007. Issue: Originally diagnosed as "AC compressor shuts off after 15 or so minutes of use". Now probably more specifically, the AC compressor seems to stay on for some brief period of time, then turn off, seemingly connected to the ambient temperature. Today was pretty hot, probably 85 degrees and humid. It barely turned on. Yet I have had other days where it would stay on and cycle and seem to work fine for 45+ minutes at a time, when the temperature outside was significantly lower. So I havent had a chance to really dig into this problem yet, mostly because I am having trouble finding rental gauges at the usual car parts chains. Autozone and PepBoys didnt have em, so I need to keep looking around. In my brief troubleshooting, I swapped some relays and it didnt resolve anything, so I am fairly sure the relays are fine. The aux fans are both turning on/off when they should, as far as I can tell. Compressor turns on (watch the clutch spin and cold air gets blown), fan turns on, etc. I plugged in my OBD2 reader and the coolant temperature of the car is reading correctly, well within normal operating temps. So the ECU shouldnt be turning the compressor off thinking the car is overheating. So, besides getting gauges and checking refrigerant, any ideas at what I should look at? Is there a temperature sensor or something that I should start at? Could my issues just be due to low refrigerant?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 00:37
|
|
|
Could be, you'll need to check pressures before continuing any further. Gauges should be available at any autozone. Head over to Motronic's A/C thread. Read the OP. Then read it again. Then read it a third time. Then hook your gauges up and get static (engine off and cool) and running pressures.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 00:44
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Some people just don't have the spatial awareness wired up in their brains. This is especially a problem with people who didn't learn to drive around the age when it's still easy to learn and internalize stuff. Back in grad school I knew plenty of international students who barely/never drove back home and then had to get a car to navigate daily suburbia. Scary driving right there....
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 00:47
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Could be, you'll need to check pressures before continuing any further. Gauges should be available at any autozone. Yes that will definitely be my go to resource. I just haven't dug in too hard because of the difficulty finding gauges.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 01:17
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Yes that will definitely be my go to resource. I just haven't dug in too hard because of the difficulty finding gauges. You can order them from amazon, harbor freight, etc. I got the set I use the most at a ReTool (used tool store). But until you have them you are flying blind.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 03:08
|
|
|
Does anyone know where I could obtain a M12 x 1 bolt? I bought a clearance brake master cylinder for my Focus and it didn't include a bench bleeding kit and the one I bought from O'Reilly only had one each of the metric bleeder nipples, so I have to block off the remaining ports while I bleed one of them (non-ABS master cylinder, 4 output ports.) Couldn't find it locally and McMaster-Carr only has M12 fasteners in 1.25, 1.5 & 1.75. Seems to be impossible to find. Barring that, any suggestions on how to block off a master cylinder port that doesn't require me buying another $10 bench bleed kit?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 03:50
|
|
|
FlyingCowOfDoom posted:gently caress thats the name of the place, I was trying to remember all the old commercials I had seen but couldnt so was just contacting local shops, thank you!! Never had to get paint work done before so when he showed me that paper with 3k on it my jaw loving dropped. The paint you're going to get is going to be as high quality as Rustoleum and the prep they do to avoid overspraying your loving headlights is going to be...questionable. You think 3k is bad? When I get my car painted it's probably going to start around 15k because they're going to strip it down instead of just painting over all the poo poo on there now. You're not just paying for materials, you're paying for LABOR. But yeah, for the ultimate appliance machine, who cares. Just make sure you look it over before leaving and make sure they didn't actually spray your headlights. Or, like in the case of my aforementioned car, the tires, chrome A-pillar, inside of the windshield, mufflers, convertible top, taillights... (thanks, previous owner)
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 04:20
|
|
|
I had a MAACO'd 240sx with so much overspray it looked like a high school project that kids didn't give a gently caress about.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 08:03
|
|
|
Geoj posted:You're going to have to clean that up before you can paint them. If you cover up the rust it will just continue to spread. Realistically I'd suggest completely removing the calipers and brackets so you can wire wheel them down to shiny bare metal before priming and painting. Dammit, you are telling me what I know in my heart is the right thing to do, but I don't have the facilties to do it myself. Which either means a half-assed job myself, or paying a garage where it would probably cost a similar price to getting the rusty bits replaced with new parts. Might go down the route of a wire brush and rust converter (naval jelly) and brushed paint. Then drive very hard for the next few thousand miles and try to wear all my braking components out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 09:51
|
|
|
Or get junkyard parts and clean them up in your spare time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 10:00
|
|
|
We recently replaced the front drivers side tire on our Volvo (the store only had one in stock and we don't have a spare). The car started pulling to the left, so I had the new tire rotated to the back. Now it pulls hard to the right (I have to keep the steering wheel ~10 degrees to the left to keep the car straight at highway speeds). Is this probably something caused by having an old and new tire on the same axle? Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jun 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 15:41
|
|
|
Augmented Dickey posted:We recently replaced the front drivers side tire on our Volvo (the store only had one in stock and we don't have a spare). The car started pulling to the left, so I had the new tire rotated to the back. Which volvo? AWD? If there is significant wear difference on the same axle you're damaging your differential by driving it like that. Did you need to replace the tire initially because you hit something like a curb or child?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 16:42
|
|
|
I just had my eleven day old Genesis Sedan (AWD) in the shop for an oil leak at the rear. My guess was rear diff, and that was confirmed at the dealer. I just want to make sure I'm not getting given a line here: The dealer is claiming that the rear differential was overfilled at the factory. Entirely possible from my limited knowledge, but they are also telling me that they replaced the rear differential gasket. Stupid questions: What I don't understand is why the gasket needed to be replaced? I thought these were splash lubricated and vented, so how did the gasket get damaged? If they opened the differential I guess it would be replaced but why would they open it if it was just overfilled?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 17:02
|
|
|
The genesis has a drain hole. On the other hand, if they opened the diff up to inspect it, they'll want to replace the gasket anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
I'm going to guess they either had to open the differential housing to drain it, or else replaced the gasket in an abundance of caution. I'm assuming this was done under warranty if the car is less than two weeks old?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 17:08
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Which volvo? AWD? Nope, just a FWD S60. I had a nail in the sidewall that couldn't be repaired.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 17:10
|
|
|
Geoj posted:I'm going to guess they either had to open the differential housing to drain it, or else replaced the gasket in an abundance of caution. Yeah entirely under warranty. I know that the dealership is being very careful with my car after the issues that came up when I was buying it, so I'm hoping it's caution and not something more. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 17:16
|
|
|
Augmented Dickey posted:We recently replaced the front drivers side tire on our Volvo (the store only had one in stock and we don't have a spare). The car started pulling to the left, so I had the new tire rotated to the back. Get a matching tire to put on the other side, or three if it's awd. That bigger tire is rotating slower than the others and loving with the traction control and adding wear to your differential or transaxle. I'm probably only 80% on the effects but 100% on the solution. My theory is traction control is braking the other three wheels and pulling you right. When it was on the front it was doing the same but you were applying power on the new tire and pulled it left. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jun 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 17:16
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Does anyone know where I could obtain a M12 x 1 bolt? It is an unusually fine pitch, though, I very much doubt you'll find anything finer than 1.25 on the shelf at a general hardware/fastener place.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 19:12
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Does anyone know where I could obtain a M12 x 1 bolt? I bought a clearance brake master cylinder for my Focus and it didn't include a bench bleeding kit and the one I bought from O'Reilly only had one each of the metric bleeder nipples, so I have to block off the remaining ports while I bleed one of them (non-ABS master cylinder, 4 output ports.) I used to work at a fastener company in college. M12x1 is definitely a weird size. The $10 might be your cheapest option. The only other solution I can think of would be to get a M12x1 adapter to some smaller size with a plug for that smaller size. I know O'Reillys does have a whole rack of brake fittings with each ones in tiny boxes in the back. They've let me go in the back there as a customer to find what I've needed before.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
StormDrain posted:Get a matching tire to put on the other side, or three if it's awd. That bigger tire is rotating slower than the others and loving with the traction control and adding wear to your differential or transaxle. I'm probably only 80% on the effects but 100% on the solution. I did some measuring this morning: Front axle- left tire has ~.75mm more tread than the right tire Rear axle- left tire has ~2mm more tread than the right tire So hopefully replacing the rear right tire will mostly solve the issue.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2015 16:51
|
|