|
[If this would be more appropriate in the car buying thread, please move it. I thought the BMW thread would be best, since I'm not asking what car to buy, I'm asking about a specific model.] I've been lusting after an M3 for a few years, and I'm getting close to having enough money saved up to buy one. Initially I was thinking an E46, but after looking it seemed hard to find a good one with a manual gearbox that hadn't been modified, so I decided to save up more and get an E92. I have a history of making terrible decisions when buying cars, so I've decided to ask for help this time (3 of my 4 used car purchases had a $1500+ repair within a month of purchasing). If I could get some advice, it would be much appreciated. My questions so far are: Where should I try to find one? I've mostly looked on CarMax (because there's one close to me) and the Bimmer Forums Classifieds (because they actually have several M3s listed). I don't see many used M3s on places like AutoTrader and Cars.com. Are there other good places to look? Is a dealer like CarMax a good idea or should I stick to private sellers? Is there a good reason to buy a 2011-2013 over a 2008-2010 car other than mileage? There seems to be a notable price gap, with the 2011 and up cars being $44,000+ and the older cars more like $32-$38,000. I can always save up a little longer if it's really worth getting a later year, but $10,000 for a 3 year difference on a used car seems like a lot unless something about the car changed. Is there anything to avoid? I'm hoping to find a 6-speed manual 2-door coupe, as I don't want a convertible or a flappy-paddle gearbox. Are there any options that are a must-have or a must-avoid? How much should I try to negotiate the price? Are these cars in such demand that I won't be able to get the price any lower than advertised, or would it be possible to get hundreds/thousands off the asking price? What should I ask the owner? Aside from maintenance history, is there anything important I need to find out about the car that isn't listed on the options list or the carfax?
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 03:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 05:32 |
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:My wife can't have kids, so it's basically project time until I die of old age. DINK life is the best life, friend. I think my boyfriend wanted kids when we got together but I think he's also starting to realize how much they would cramp his obsession. So I may have won him over to the dark side. I'll let HIM tell his mom.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 04:28
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:Nice! Just to be up front, the general consensus on the dedicated 8 series forums is to avoid cars that don't have service records or are being sold suspiciously cheaply, since these can be pricey to bring back from the (near) dead. Sometimes though, you get lucky. Thanks a ton, I'll get on the headlight stuff first thing. I have a binder of service records, including one that has a receipt for replacing the 18 000 dollar long block. I have a 30 000km engine!
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 06:50
|
|
|
Overpriced Balloons posted:What should I ask the owner? Aside from maintenance history, is there anything important I need to find out about the car that isn't listed on the options list or the carfax? In general when purchasing a used M, be prepared for extra maintenance costs for older or higher mileage car. I bought a mint E60 M5 with perfect history & checkups and now after 8 months have replaced the VANOS system and the clutch / flywheel for 5k+$ so cost can come in. Going with a manual should be simpler for the gearbox but DCT is a good box as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 10:02
|
|
|
Maggie Fletcher posted:DINK life is the best life, friend. I think my boyfriend wanted kids when we got together but I think he's also starting to realize how much they would cramp his obsession. So I may have won him over to the dark side. I'll let HIM tell his mom. I have two kids and right now am paying a thousand dollars a month in child care. And this is in the midwest where it's super cheap. I understand in New York or LA full-time child care is several thousand a month. So don't feel bad about it at all 
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 14:21
|
|
|
I wouldn't toss out the E46. Just watch m3forum, bimmerforums, e46fanatics, and Craigslist and pay a dealer to do a PPI. I prefer to buy from the owner so I can gauge how they cared for the car. I would rather get the car from some one who is going to tear up when I drive away than a dealer. Service records are a bonus. I don't have much perspective on the newer Ms. I love the 46, you can dance it though and autocross, pulls well enough for the street. Just an old fashioned front engine rwd car with out too much complexity.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 14:25
|
|
|
Overpriced Balloons posted:[If this would be more appropriate in the car buying thread, please move it. I thought the BMW thread would be best, since I'm not asking what car to buy, I'm asking about a specific model.] For Carmax, you'll usually pay a little more from them for the same car compared to a used car dealer or used on a BMW lot. Their price is non-negotiable so you won't be able to bargain with them, either. They do, however, offer a warranty on every car they sell that covers pretty much everything, and can be used at any BMW shop and many independent shops. I bought my 330Ci from Carmax, with the warranty, and have had over $6k of covered repairs performed on it. Don't settle for a car that's not the color/options you want. It may be tempting if you see one that's a good deal, but you don't want to think "man, I wish I would have gotten a blue one" every time you walk into your garage.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 15:16
|
|
|
My 2009 135i just had the passenger side Xenon fail. Bulb (D1S) is fine. After a few quick forum reads I am getting scared this is going to be very expensive to fix. Has anyone had a Xenon fail before where the bulb is fine when switched side to side? I am thinking this is going to end up being a corroded Lighting Control Module which equals $$$$.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 15:21
|
|
|
Frank Dillinger posted:So in BMW 850CI news, I bought it for 1500$ Oh loving hell yes. That's awesome! Please get a "Beater8" plate and fix the dents/dings with the big vinyl bandaid stickers.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 15:28
|
|
thread to come after I pick it up.
|
gigButt posted:My 2009 135i just had the passenger side Xenon fail. Bulb (D1S) is fine. After a few quick forum reads I am getting scared this is going to be very expensive to fix. Has anyone had a Xenon fail before where the bulb is fine when switched side to side? I am thinking this is going to end up being a corroded Lighting Control Module which equals $$$$. I've had this happen. Bulb was fine, igniter was fine, it wound up being the ballast (which requires you to remove half the front bumper). Not a very expensive repair, though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 15:29
|
|
|
Kaakao posted:In general when purchasing a used M, be prepared for extra maintenance costs for older or higher mileage car. I bought a mint E60 M5 with perfect history & checkups and now after 8 months have replaced the VANOS system and the clutch / flywheel for 5k+$ so cost can come in. Going with a manual should be simpler for the gearbox but DCT is a good box as well. Its an SMG not a DCT. The biggest failure is the SMG pump which will munch a gear box if it decides to poo poo itself at the right time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 15:49
|
|
|
I'm bored out of my skull by my '14 Mazda 3. Provided I give the Mazda 3 to my fiance, I can buy almost whatever I want. I was looking at E46 330i sedans with a manual. Aside from the loving COOLING SYSTEM is there anything I need to be aware of on these cars?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:03
|
|
|
Nait Sirhc posted:I've had this happen. Bulb was fine, igniter was fine, it wound up being the ballast (which requires you to remove half the front bumper). Not a very expensive repair, though. Was this on an E82? How tough was that bumper pull and was it hard to put back on alignment wise?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:05
|
|
|
Wrar posted:I'm bored out of my skull by my '14 Mazda 3. Provided I give the Mazda 3 to my fiance, I can buy almost whatever I want. I was looking at E46 330i sedans with a manual. Aside from the loving COOLING SYSTEM is there anything I need to be aware of on these cars? Any thing suspension related. Its not that its catastrophic, but it makes a car handle like poo poo. Mostly every thing else is pretty decent.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:12
|
|
|
Wrar posted:I'm bored out of my skull by my '14 Mazda 3. Provided I give the Mazda 3 to my fiance, I can buy almost whatever I want. I was looking at E46 330i sedans with a manual. Aside from the loving COOLING SYSTEM is there anything I need to be aware of on these cars? Budget in doing: Front control arms Front control arm bushings Rear trailing arm bushings Tie rods Struts/dampers (if you do this and decide you want Konis... use the E36 M3 rear damper) Front strut mounts Steering giubo GDCS Window regulators Valve cover gasket Enjoy the car until the end of time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:36
|
|
|
Nait Sirhc posted:I've had this happen. Bulb was fine, igniter was fine, it wound up being the ballast (which requires you to remove half the front bumper). Not a very expensive repair, though. Same issue with me on an E82. Removing the front bumper is pretty easy and easy to put back on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:36
|
|
|
Wrar posted:I'm bored out of my skull by my '14 Mazda 3. Provided I give the Mazda 3 to my fiance, I can buy almost whatever I want. I was looking at E46 330i sedans with a manual. Aside from the loving COOLING SYSTEM is there anything I need to be aware of on these cars? Worth getting a PPI, no matter what. cooling system, bushings, control arm bushings are all usual culprits. e46 is basically a nicely refined e36 with almost all of the same issues.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:41
|
|
|
Sadi posted:I wouldn't toss out the E46. Just watch m3forum, bimmerforums, e46fanatics, and Craigslist and pay a dealer to do a PPI. I prefer to buy from the owner so I can gauge how they cared for the car. I would rather get the car from some one who is going to tear up when I drive away than a dealer. Service records are a bonus. also look at the BMWCCA classifieds https://www.bmwcca.org/classifieds
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:41
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:Worth getting a PPI, no matter what. How are you liking yours?  Oh, yeah, the only thing I'd really look for on these things it the rear subframe mount areas cracking and the sway bar mounts cracking if the car had tires under it or was tracked/autocrossed. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jun 18, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 17:45
|
|
|
Lovin it! I think I'm getting a slight shimmy from 55-65mph so CAB and LCAs are in order soon, along with the whole GDCS too. Bad news is I need to make a few fixes and sell of my ShitSubaru WRX so that I can free up the money to get parts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 18:39
|
|
|
Grab a stubby 22mm beforehand.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 19:28
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Its an SMG not a DCT. The biggest failure is the SMG pump which will munch a gear box if it decides to poo poo itself at the right time. If he's looking for a E9x it's most definitely a DCT. Which is completely different from the SMG in the E46. Overpriced Balloons: Oil changes are $200-$400 depending on your comfort level of letting someone who doesn't know what they're doing (you) do the oil changes on your low-tolerance, high-compression race engine, and since there is no dipstick it's not as straightforward an event as most cars and has a little anxiety-inducing step at the end where you... have to turn on the engine and run it for 15 minutes before it'll tell you how much oil is in there. So you better get it mostly right. If you don't do an oil change immediately after buying an E9x M3 (unless you have complete service records and it was done in the last 3k miles before you bought it) you're a maniac who loves to live dangerously. Oil change intervals are 3k-5k depending on how mechanically sympathetic you are. It takes 9 liters of $15-a-bottle oil. A set of tires are $1100-$1500 depending on how sticky you want. So I guess count on keeping that record of spending $1500 within a month of purchase intact. There's virtually no exterior changes across the run of the E92 aside from the change to LED taillights in 2011 that almost no one will notice without parking them next to each other, and a very slight change to the shape of the rear view mirrors (most people on the forums prefer the smaller ones pre-LCI), the 2009 and up has a easier-to-update nav system and a more streamlined iDrive. 2011 got the COMBOX system, which allows streaming via bluetooth phones (previous versions just have BT connectivity.) 2009 had a very tiny change to the seats, the headrests don't tilt like they do on the 2008's. 2011's and up had the option to get ZCP wheels, so those typically indicate the younger cars - but they fit on all years and a lot of people retrofit them to older ones so it's not the automatic way to tell the car's age. 2011.5 introduced the stop/start feature, but what sort of savage runs an M3 and has it shut down at stoplights? The cars are pretty bulletproof, the only thing to read up on is the potentially dreaded Rod Bearing issue which is pretty rare and can be monitored for by religiously sending your oil in for Blackstone reports. Don't get one with a moonroof because the coupe comes as standard with a very expensive carbon fibre roof and a PO who specced a moonroof and then paid extra to literally downgrade his car indicates bad decision making and probably beat on the car before it was warmed up because they don't know any better.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 19:39
|
|
|
Ether Frenzy posted:If he's looking for a E9x it's most definitely a DCT. Which is completely different from the SMG in the E46. If you read the post, he referenced the E60 M5, which has a SMG.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 20:31
|
|
|
Ah, thought you were referring to Overpriced Balloons' comments about considering both E46 and E92 M's.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 20:52
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Budget in doing: Pretty much this. Sounds like a lot, but it's not too pricey if you can do the work yourself and it's not stuff you'll have to do more than once unless you own the car for a very long time. Budget maybe an extra ~$1200 over the price of the car to get it into solid condition and you'll be fine. E46 330s are good times. Edit- Also, watch out for suspiciously cheap cars. E46 prices are all over the board, and the lower end of the price range is almost universally filled with junk. There are a lot of trashed E46s out there. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jun 18, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2015 22:54
|
|
|
Ether Frenzy posted:
Not all M cars are made to order in advance by customers, dealerships order them for their own inventory all the time. So it's a little unrealistic to say that the cars without sunroofs were not beat on inappropriately, or that the cars with sunroofs are guaranteed to have been.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 00:04
|
|
|
Frank Dillinger posted:Thanks a ton, I'll get on the headlight stuff first thing. I have a binder of service records, including one that has a receipt for replacing the 18 000 dollar long block. I have a 30 000km engine! This is very cool. I think you got a great deal getting a 96 with so few miles on the engine. I posted a bunch of 850-related stuff a while back and it's still relevant. Plan on replacing the GDCS almost immediately unless you have solid proof that it's been done within the previous 50k miles or 6-8 years. The thermostat is expensive (it's got some kind of electronic control), but the rest of the stuff is somewhat reasonable. Misfires are usually related to hosed up plug wires, the price of which will cause you to cry. There's no way around this. The rest of the ignition system is cheap (use OEM plugs, the caps and rotors are super-reasonable). Rough idle is usually intake manifold gaskets. This is reasonable for an enthusiast to do, but is a pain in the rear end (the whole top of the engine needs to come off) and the gaskets are expensive and NOS is getting really old (brittle and cranky). Other parts were readily available when I sold mine back in 2010, find the dealers that specifically stock 850 parts and establish a relationship with the parts managers, (Gault BMW in Endicott, NY, Pacific BMW in Glendale, CA). Pelican was pretty good for parts. Find the BMW TIS on a torrent site.  This is the only help you will receive regarding repair information other than a few enthusiast sites. Even Roadfly's E31 forum's traffic has dropped dramatically.You might get some help on these sites: bmwtechinfo - this manual only goes up to 11/94, but most of it will apply. Interesting E31 Info Wuffer's E31 Site Wuffer had one of the best forums devoted to the E31, but it looks like he shut it down. There are a bunch of good repair write-ups on his site, though. BMWFans Parts Catalog Eh, gently caress it. Here's a Dropbox link to all the docs I collected during my affliction with the 850. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2809820&pagenumber=658&perpage=40#post443296816 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2809820&pagenumber=526&perpage=40#post428370760
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 04:16
|
|
|
Thanks for the M3 advice so far, it's all been very helpful. Based on the responses, I know I'm going to have a BMW shop do a PPI for sure, and I have found a few more possible candidates in places I wouldn't have known to look.GentlemanofLeisure posted:For Carmax, you'll usually pay a little more from them for the same car compared to a used car dealer or used on a BMW lot. Their price is non-negotiable so you won't be able to bargain with them, either. They do, however, offer a warranty on every car they sell that covers pretty much everything, and can be used at any BMW shop and many independent shops. I bought my 330Ci from Carmax, with the warranty, and have had over $6k of covered repairs performed on it. I didn't know about the CarMax warranty option, that sounds pretty attractive (though I wonder how much it would be on an M3). The other thing I like is that they'll bring cars in from out of state, which opens up the options considerably and makes it easier to find something specific. Ether Frenzy posted:Oil changes are $200-$400 depending on your comfort level of letting someone who doesn't know what they're doing (you) do the oil changes on your low-tolerance, high-compression race engine, and since there is no dipstick it's not as straightforward an event as most cars and has a little anxiety-inducing step at the end where you... have to turn on the engine and run it for 15 minutes before it'll tell you how much oil is in there. So you better get it mostly right. If you don't do an oil change immediately after buying an E9x M3 (unless you have complete service records and it was done in the last 3k miles before you bought it) you're a maniac who loves to live dangerously. Oil change intervals are 3k-5k depending on how mechanically sympathetic you are. It takes 9 liters of $15-a-bottle oil. I don't mind paying for maintenance as long as it's for things I expect to need servicing. Two of the cars I purchased in the past left me on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck shortly after buying them (one of them I had to sleep in for 5 hours until a garage opened up), and one had odometer fraud that showed up on Carfax, but not on the AutoCheck the dealer showed me before I bought it (I asked for Carfax, but didn't insist -- something I now know to do, but learned the hard way when I went to do a trade-in). With the relatively high cost of an M-car, I just want to make sure I don't flush my money away on one with serious mechanical issues or a hidden past. Thanks for all the details on the changes between model years, that will be very useful in evaluating different cars that are available. Sadi posted:I wouldn't toss out the E46. Just watch m3forum, bimmerforums, e46fanatics, and Craigslist and pay a dealer to do a PPI. I prefer to buy from the owner so I can gauge how they cared for the car. I would rather get the car from some one who is going to tear up when I drive away than a dealer. Service records are a bonus. I'm not completely ruling out an E46 M3, but I do think the E92 is more likely the car I'll get. I initially thought an E46 would be the way to go because I'm generally impatient and it would take less time to save up for one, but after exploring the market a little, the price difference seems less difficult to overcome than just finding one that's exactly right.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 04:51
|
|
|
You guys are just full of resources! I have to admit BMWs still kind of mystify me--they're not that hard to work on (my last car was a 300zx--couldn't even get my hand into the engine bay to work on it) but there's such a long history with BMWs that I don't know about. I finally got to drive the MTech today--Tuesday the BF wanted to drive it home to listen to the engine, and it was in the garage all day yesterday and today. We drove it maybe a mile to pick up something at the drugstore and before we even parked a guy nearby started grinning and immediately came over with questions. It's very odd to drive an automatic--I managed not to ghost-shift too much, but I am excited to get the conversion in there. My BF hunted down a guy who's parting out his wrecked e30 and is giving us the entire transmission/gearbox/pedal assembly for $500. The suspension is VERY smooth--the BF expected to put the Bilstein shocks from my old e30 onto the new one, but the ones it has are pretty nice. I trust him though, and he knows a lot, so we'll go with what he thinks is best. All the little niggling details that bug me about my current car that weren't worth fixing are fine on this car. The radio sounds perfect; even the little clock display works. The gauge cluster works. The dash and door panels and floor are all flawless. It's not without its quirks, though. The SRS light flashes and then goes steady. The convertible top is in flawless condition but the motor is in fact broken, but we can lower it manually. I was expecting problems with the motor down the road so this doesn't bother me that much; as long as I can put it down manually I may just leave it. The headlights are wired wrong; I don't have brights, but the brights switch turns on the regular lights. Part of the rear suspension needs replacing, but we ordered parts and will probably get that done this weekend. And probably next weekend, we'll swap out the transmission. I got some photos, but they're not very good. Once I get a chance to get some really good ones I'll post them. Maggie Fletcher fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jun 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 04:54
|
|
|
My moms E39 530i is throwing codes. Am I on the right track thinking this is probably a vacuum leak or MAF related? I'm doubting its O2 sensors because it's reporting both at once. I don't get to see the car till Saturday and the rest of the family is useless at diagnosis. Codes pulled at the mechanic: 
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 05:41
|
|
|
I had codes for both 02 sensors, and it ended up being(partially) both O2 sensors. Then again, i bought my car with a monster energy sticker over the check engine light. if it's around 120k miles, it's probably around the time both the MAF and o2 sensors would start to go. O2 sensors are only $50 on rockauto, and are the easiest thing in the world to change. just climb under with a 22mm wrench and you're good. Just swap the actual sensor out of the housing, you will need a 5 point security torx bit which you'll only really find in the cheeziest princess auto/harbor freight bit sets. Oh, 530i. that probably won't work. Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Jun 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 05:53
|
|
|
ignition coil tested 6000 ohms between the king post and + terminal, when it should test out to 5000 according to the internet... Safe to say it's shot before I buy a new one? Plug wire #1 tested the same resistance as every other wire. New spark plug fixed nothing. Didn't have a whole lot of time to do things today, but hey I think can rule those out now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 08:42
|
|
|
Powershift posted:Then again, i bought my car with a monster energy sticker over the check engine light. Hahaha wow. I applaud your courage buying that car, that's a redder flag than a girl saying I love you on the first date.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 13:25
|
|
|
Thats some real man poo poo right there. Balls as big as monster energy drinks
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 13:51
|
|
|
8ender posted:My moms E39 530i is throwing codes. Am I on the right track thinking this is probably a vacuum leak or MAF related? I'm doubting its O2 sensors because it's reporting both at once. I don't get to see the car till Saturday and the rest of the family is useless at diagnosis. Does it ever go into "engine safe mode"? Could be a massive vacuum leak, but could also be or a torn intake boot letting in unmetered air after the MAF. My mom's 2002 530i was having strange issues and the intake boot was found to be cracked and torn around where the idle control valve's smaller tube intersects with the main duct. Trouble is when they assemble the motor they install the clamps for this thing from angles that are only easily accessible with the engine out of the car, so it can be kind of a pain to remove the original. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Jun 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 14:26
|
|
|
You guys rock, thanks. Apparently there are some decently reputable BMW shops in the area and I can do suspension work on my own. It looks like less than 1k for most of the things on that list, which is totally doable. Basically I'm thinking no rust, no codes, compression and leakdown. If said car passes I should probably be fine, right?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 14:37
|
|
|
Speaking of vacuum leaks, i got a p0171 today (System Too Lean (Bank 1). I replaced the o2 sensors a couple of weeks ago. From what google tells me it's most likely a vacuum leak. Where should i start looking?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 14:37
|
|
|
Tashan Dorrsett posted:ignition coil tested 6000 ohms between the king post and + terminal, when it should test out to 5000 according to the internet... Safe to say it's shot before I buy a new one? I'm kind of betting its a clogged or stuck injector. Did you listen to them with a long screwdriver? If the coil were failing then the distributor would randomly distribute a misfire to any cylinder, not just #1. Have you replaced the cap and rotor? Worst case scenario would be low compression due to burned valve seats. But if you have reason to suspect your coil is failing anyway then see what the internet recommends. For whatever reason my dad scoffs when he sees old british cars with a "FIREBALL" or "MSD" ignition coil. Not sure if he's a stickler for originality (lucas ftw) or if he thinks theyre crap brands or are otherwise not right for the car or what. stuck injector could either be closed or open all the time. too much fuel makes a rich condition which will ignite only a little better than no fuel at all. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jun 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 14:38
|
|
|
Killstick posted:Speaking of vacuum leaks, i got a p0171 today (System Too Lean (Bank 1). I replaced the o2 sensors a couple of weeks ago. From what google tells me it's most likely a vacuum leak. Where should i start looking? See my post above about a torn intake boot. That's where I'd start looking, as it's one of the easiest pertinent things to visually inspect. You'll have to nudge it with something or remove it completely to inspect, because unlike a hard plastic vacuum line which would likely split obviously, the rubber can crack but stay pressed together and look ok at first glance. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jun 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 14:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 05:32 |
|
|
Wrar posted:You guys rock, thanks. Apparently there are some decently reputable BMW shops in the area and I can do suspension work on my own. It looks like less than 1k for most of the things on that list, which is totally doable. Yup. These cars are easy as hell to work on, you don't really need a shop for them if you can handle doing the suspension yourself.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2015 15:42
|
|