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Augmented Dickey posted:I did some measuring this morning: Ok, so for fun, I used a little caclulator to illustrate the difference. Assuming a perfect nominal new tire, and that you run a 235/45R17, the worn tire is now a 235/44.1R17.  So don't do that.
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Jun 20, 2015 21:43
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I replaced the worn rear tire today and it seems much better. The tech said that the front two tires were close enough to be compatable. Thanks for your help!
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Jun 20, 2015 22:56
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 anyone know what make/model i'm looking at here?
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Jun 21, 2015 00:58
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Citroen DS cabriolet by the looks.
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Jun 21, 2015 01:11
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TheQat posted:
Almost looks like a triumph?
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Jun 21, 2015 01:13
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Slavvy posted:Citroen DS cabriolet by the looks. fits the bill judging from google searches. thx
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Jun 21, 2015 01:22
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I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma, Xracab with the 2.7L engine, 4WD. The exhaust is a rusty mess. From the flange just behind the Cat all the way back, rust, holes and more rust. My plan of attack is a new muffler assembly, new gasket for the flange behind the cat, new gasket for the O2 sensor, new studs and bolts if the rusty ones there dissolve during removal, and a grinder on hand for any stuck fasteners. Is there anything I am missing here? Lastly, can I install the new assembly with the truck on the ground, or should I use jackstands or a lift? FWIW, this is a pretty tall truck with 31" tires and I can do the oil without any ramps or anything.
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Jun 21, 2015 18:31
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma, Xracab with the 2.7L engine, 4WD. The exhaust is a rusty mess. From the flange just behind the Cat all the way back, rust, holes and more rust. A bag of large repair washers on hand to re-secure any parts of the heat shields that have come adrift (the holes corrode out and they punch past the nut holding them on). Exhaust assembly paste for doing the joints. Also new mounting rubbers are cheap, maybe replace them while you're at it, means you can just cut the old ones off. Mercury Ballistic posted:Lastly, can I install the new assembly with the truck on the ground, or should I use jackstands or a lift? FWIW, this is a pretty tall truck with 31" tires and I can do the oil without any ramps or anything.
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Jun 21, 2015 20:33
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InitialDave posted:O2 sensors can be very stuck in place, so be prepared for that. Good to hear. Thanks for the tips. I will look for some hanger rubbers as well.
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Jun 21, 2015 21:58
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Being a Toyota the flange studs will shear at the slightest hint of torque, but they're standardised and you can buy them from the dealer for not much.
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Jun 21, 2015 23:14
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So my 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ (4.0, 6 cyl) is kicking out a code P0431. I googled it and this is what I've got:quote:Technical Description: Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2) I've checked the exhaust and it seems sound. It doesn't wiggle or move when I put force on it. I don't think I have a leak. I've inspected the O2 sensors.. The post-cat O2 sensor on the #2 bank has been replaced recently by the last owner. He must have had this same issue but was able to band aid it before the sale. So, I believe the catalytic converter to be bad on bank 2. I know you can check this with a laser temp gun and I'd like to know exactly how to go about doing this. It's supposed to be a certain temp before and after but I'm not sure about the particulars. Help? Edit: Code 2: My Jeep is also kicking out a generic code P0700 for the Transmission Control Module. What can I use to interface with this TCM.. Can it be done through the OBD port or does it require some expensive diagnostics stuff? I've heard that cats go bad easily especially if the engines putting out bad exhaust. Maybe this has something to do with it or maybe not since it's a 10 year old vehicle.. davey4283 fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jun 22, 2015 |
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Jun 22, 2015 14:28
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I had the same P0431 code a year back in my Tacoma. I ended up finding that a small hole in a vacuum hose was causing the EGR to perform poorly, and throwing the readings for the Cat off. This is my theory at least, since repairing the hose stopped the code from returning. Not saying it is your issue, but it could be another to consider.
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Jun 22, 2015 15:40
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I had the same P0431 code a year back in my Tacoma. I ended up finding that a small hole in a vacuum hose was causing the EGR to perform poorly, and throwing the readings for the Cat off. This is my theory at least, since repairing the hose stopped the code from returning. Not saying it is your issue, but it could be another to consider. Jeeps with the 4.0 don't have an EGR, so this isn't his problem.
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Jun 22, 2015 16:39
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In my continuing quest of me being dumb about cars, how bad is the penalty for driving around with expired tags on your license plate? I moved to a new state a few weeks ago and after a lot of headaches in getting settled, I'm finally getting around to reg-ing my car in my new state, as the tags on my old plate are dated 06-15 and expire at the end of this month. However, I took out a loan to get this car and the lender is the lienholder on the title, so the original is with them, and I need the original title to register my car here (moved from IL to PA). They and PennDOT both said this happens all the time and it's a simple enough process to get the original title in front of the correct people, however I'm getting vastly different numbers on the length of the process- as little as three days and as many as 45  I have all the info I need to get tags for my old state so I'm not driving around with expired ones (and it shouldn't take them more than a week to reach me), but I'd like to not have to pay for two $100 registrations within a couple months of each other if it can be helped. Should I just suck it up and re-register in my old state right away, or can I get away with waiting for the title to go through?
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Jun 23, 2015 01:39
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What is the best way to tell if an idler pulley is bad and causing a squeaking/squealing noise?
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Jun 23, 2015 01:59
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C-Euro posted:In my continuing quest of me being dumb about cars, how bad is the penalty for driving around with expired tags on your license plate? I moved to a new state a few weeks ago and after a lot of headaches in getting settled, I'm finally getting around to reg-ing my car in my new state, as the tags on my old plate are dated 06-15 and expire at the end of this month. However, I took out a loan to get this car and the lender is the lienholder on the title, so the original is with them, and I need the original title to register my car here (moved from IL to PA). You're going to get a lot of anecdotal evidence for this. Personally, when I was a teenager I once drove my mid-90s Ranger for over a year on expired tags without realizing they were expired and was never pulled over. Usually it will depend on the officer who spots you, and how long it has been since they expired. Since you're currently on out of state plates as long as it doesn't take several months to get this resolved I'd guess you'll be OK, because a lot of cops are going to take a "not my job to enforce some other state's expired plate" stance, at least as long as you don't get pulled over for something else. Elmnt80 posted:What is the best way to tell if an idler pulley is bad and causing a squeaking/squealing noise? Remove the belt and turn the idler by hand. If its really bad you should be able to hear it, but I'd feel for resistance as you spin it by hand. While you're at it if you're that far along you might as well just replace it, idlers are cheap and you've already done 90% of the work in removing the belt. Geoj fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 02:29
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Elmnt80 posted:What is the best way to tell if an idler pulley is bad and causing a squeaking/squealing noise? Open the hood and see if that's where the noise is coming from? Edit: It may also be hotter than the other pulleys, but you probably don't want to test that with the engine running.
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Jun 23, 2015 02:29
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Geoj posted:Remove the belt and turn the idler by hand. If its really bad you should be able to hear it, but I'd feel for resistance as you spin it by hand. I had done this and I think I can hear a faint sound of metal scraping, but no resistance. I really only hear it when the engine is revving up above idle, so I dunno. I've already replaced the tensioner pulley while trying to track down the source of the squeal, so I'll probably just throw the other pulley at it when I'm at work tomorrow and call it good enough. Its not like pulling the belt off of a 5.3 in a truck is hard. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 03:17
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Elmnt80 posted:I had done this and I think I can hear a faint sound of metal scraping, but no resistance. I really only hear it when the engine is revving up above idle, so I dunno. I've already replaced the tensioner pulley while trying to track down the source of the squeal, so I'll probably just throw the other pulley at it when I'm at work tomorrow and call it good enough. Its not like pulling the belt off of a 5.3 in a truck is hard. A properly functioning idler pulley will have a bit of resistance, but it will turn completely smooth. If it has no drag, the seals have probably failed and the grease has escaped, the bearing rollers will follow suit shortly.
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Jun 23, 2015 03:57
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Get a really long screwdriver and put it up against the non-moving center bit of the pulley and put your ear to the other end.
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Jun 23, 2015 04:22
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Slavvy posted:Get a really long screwdriver and put it up against the non-moving center bit of the pulley and put your ear to the other end. I feel like this is something I saw in one of those "scared straight" industrial accident movies they show you on the first day of shop class...
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Jun 23, 2015 04:47
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Is there anything about a full tank vs empty that I could notice when driving, or is it just placebo that I feel like the car's weight and body motion when accelerating are different immediately after filling up? <3000 pound car with me in it, 16 gallon tank. That seems like it doesn't even add 100 pounds, much less than any passenger I carry. Maybe because it's over the rear rather than the front?
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Jun 23, 2015 04:51
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The weight is super noticeable.
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Jun 23, 2015 05:16
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I get the feeling this sort of damage isn't worth fixing, but I'd like confirmation. Something fell off a pickup truck and hit me on the interstate and caused my hood to fly up and slam into my windshield. I didn't get the guy's plates and wasn't paying enough attention to even get the make and color of the loving thing, so insurance is likely gonna be impossible on this; I went from singing along with a song I like on the radio to having a view full of broken glass and metal. Only reason I can confirm it was a truck is a state trooper saw me swerve from behind the guy to the side of the road, but he was southbound while I was northbound so he didn't catch plates or anything.
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Jun 23, 2015 06:12
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Geoj posted:I feel like this is something I saw in one of those "scared straight" industrial accident movies they show you on the first day of shop class... It is something mechanics do constantly without mishap; indeed, it's the go-to way for finding elusive alternator or water pump noises.
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Jun 23, 2015 07:15
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John Dyne posted:I get the feeling this sort of damage isn't worth fixing, but I'd like confirmation. Depends how much the car is worth, but unless it's something either fairly new or worth a bit, I'd probably count on it being a write-off. Since it caused the hood to open, you can probably count on radiator damage (hood latch attaches to the radiator support), a/c damage (condenser sits in front of the radiator), and fender damage (since everything up front ultimately attaches to the radiator support - it looks like the passenger fender has been moved upward anyway). It's potentially a lot more than just roof, hood, and windshield damage. The upside is it's unlikely there's any unibody damage, so someone with body shop connections could get it fixed pretty cheaply. Hopefully you had insurance on it that would cover an event like this (what kind of coverage that would be varies from state to state - in some states that could be counted under a comprehensive claim IF whatever fell off the truck hit the ground first, in others it would be collision).  22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there anything about a full tank vs empty that I could notice when driving, or is it just placebo that I feel like the car's weight and body motion when accelerating are different immediately after filling up? <3000 pound car with me in it, 16 gallon tank. That seems like it doesn't even add 100 pounds, much less than any passenger I carry. Maybe because it's over the rear rather than the front? A gallon of gasoline weighs about 6 pounds, so that's 96 pounds. It doesn't sound like much, but on a smaller car, that weight difference is very noticeable. I notice a huge difference in my car's handling (and acceleration) with just one passenger - 2800 pound car with 140 hp. A full tank of gas also makes it handle a little different, and I only have a 13 gallon tank. The average person wouldn't notice it, but someone who actually pays attention to how their car handles will notice it. It'll be a lot less noticeable in a larger car. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 10:12
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This is barely related, but I used to ride a motorcycle that had a 7 gallon tank, and the difference between full and empty was amazing. It was to the point where, if I was just going to be riding around town, I'd only bother filling it half way.
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Jun 23, 2015 13:16
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some texas redneck posted:Depends how much the car is worth, but unless it's something either fairly new or worth a bit, I'd probably count on it being a write-off. It's a 2000 Ford Contour so I kinda figured it was destined for the scrap heap. I had to replace the starter and the battery cables earlier this year so I think any more work into it is gonna be a waste, or more than getting a newer used car. Thanks for the confirmation!
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Jun 23, 2015 15:55
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Trying to find an owner manual PDF for my pops for a 2002 VW Turbo Beetle. Everywhere I look is dead links and poo poo, or the repair manual. I know I can get one on eBay for like $40-$50, but you know, free is better. Appreciate any help.
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Jun 23, 2015 18:53
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Gasoline is about 6.3 pounds per gallon (going to assume US units based on the .gov source). A full tank of gas in my jeep is approximately 19 gallons, so almost the weight of an average healthy woman. If you have a smaller tank, you might not notice the difference, but I can definitely feel the difference when I have two extra people.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:30
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EightBit posted:Gasoline is about 6.3 pounds per gallon (going to assume US units based on the .gov source). A full tank of gas in my jeep is approximately 19 gallons, so almost the weight of an average healthy woman. If you have a smaller tank, you might not notice the difference, but I can definitely feel the difference when I have two extra people.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:32
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Safety Dance posted:This is barely related, but I used to ride a motorcycle that had a 7 gallon tank, and the difference between full and empty was amazing. It was to the point where, if I was just going to be riding around town, I'd only bother filling it half way. I used to drive a Kei car for work, the drat thing actually handled a lot better for everyday driving with a full tank because that was about the only weight there was on the back wheels.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:59
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InitialDave posted:So you're saying I should dump the body before getting gas in order to maintain performance? Oh, you can go further than that.  vv I suddenly realize i completely misread that post.  what an innocent mind i have. vv
Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 20:05
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InitialDave posted:So you're saying I should dump the body before getting gas in order to maintain performance?
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Jun 23, 2015 21:03
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Don't take your cell phone with you either. Don't want the feds to know you were at the burial site ever 
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Jun 23, 2015 22:07
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Oh, I'm not leaving all the bits in one place. I'm not a moron.
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Jun 23, 2015 22:15
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2002 Ford Escape, v6 engine: engine light came on, code indicates one of the upstream 02 sensors is bad. Local chains want $45 per sensor for what is $25 per on Rockauto or Amazon. Would it be risky to the engine to operate it as is while the parts come in or would lovely gas mileage be the only concern? We're talking a week, tops.
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Jun 24, 2015 00:11
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Parts Kit posted:2002 Ford Escape, v6 engine: engine light came on, code indicates one of the upstream 02 sensors is bad. Local chains want $45 per sensor for what is $25 per on Rockauto or Amazon. Would it be risky to the engine to operate it as is while the parts come in or would lovely gas mileage be the only concern? We're talking a week, tops. You'll be fine, just make sure you get a sensor that is at least as good as the OEM. I used a bosch sensor in my jeep and it didn't fix it - put in the NTK sensor and all was well.
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Jun 24, 2015 00:23
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My office is at the top of a large hill and when I drive home, I have probably a mile of 25mph speed limit hill descent. I have a 2004 Golf TDI with the DSG auto transmission, so instead of riding the brakes, I have been shifting into 3rd and engine braking to hold my speed under 35mph, give or take. I know that riding my brakes all the way down is bad for them in the sense that it's just wearing them down, but am I risking wear to the engine/transmission by holding speed this way? I'm usually sitting at around 2k RPM at max speed while doing this so still well below the redline, I just don't know if the fact that it's diesel makes any difference.
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Jun 24, 2015 01:31
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No, you're doing the right thing, carry on.
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Jun 24, 2015 01:47
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