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Star War Sex Parrot posted:There aren't. As best as I can tell I only have the left side of that diagram. Notice underneath the right side that it says "optional" -- I think that's my problem. I'd recommend you talk to the apt. manager to find out for sure. That would make the data wiring in the apartment useless. Hooking into that that a little more complicated, but doable. Given your inexperience with telecom wiring, I'd recommend you get a low voltage guy to do it for you. You'd basically punch down another pair in the bock and run them off to a patch panel. But honestly that seems a little silly since that's not a cheap box and given the expertise of whomever ran the cable I'd be amazed if there's not a patch panel either in very close proximity or on the other side of the wall that box is mounted to.
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Jun 30, 2015 23:13
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:This was my suspicion. Yeah that patch panel will work, you'll want that, a pack of 1 or 2 foot cables (or however long from the patch panel to the switch), and a switch. If you're feeling crazy there's even small network racks you can mount on the wall like: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-12-Inch-Mounting-Bracket-WALLMOUNT6/dp/B000VDPBXM/ that you could put the patch panel and switch on, but of course that makes it a bigger job since you have to anchor it to the wall. edit: also if you get that rack you'll need some cage nuts to secure equipment. It's kind of a pain in the rear end so I'd talk to the landlord about it. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 23:14
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Rexxed posted:The data PCB that's outlined in the second photo instructions is not present. It would have ethernet outputs. All that's there is the phone punchdown. Well poo poo, you're right. It looks like they took the cat5e and threw it on the phone breakout, but wired it as if it was data. That's just weird. Star War Sex Parrot posted:This was my suspicion. That'll work. Get a tone tool and make sure all that wiring is going to your data ports. You basically plug a tone generator in the room jack and go back to the box and wave a wand that will make a noise when it's near the "live" wire. They're not terribly expensive. Monoprice has one around $35. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10913&cs_id=1091305&p_id=8134&seq=1&format=2 Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 23:18
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flosofl posted:Well poo poo, you're right. It looks like they took the cat5e and threw it on the phone breakout, but wired it as if it was data. That's just weird. They probably got an electrician to do it and he got all the wires hooked together "right" but just not in a way that works for network equipment. I've seen it happen a few times at small business sites. For another anecdote, security companies doing long ethernet runs to IP cameras often hire 18 year olds who don't really understand why they should use T568B or A on their 300 foot runs, too.
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Jun 30, 2015 23:23
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flosofl posted:Well poo poo, you're right. It looks like they took the cat5e and threw it on the phone breakout, but wired it as if it was data. That's just weird.  flosofl posted:That'll work.
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Jun 30, 2015 23:28
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Oh drat, I would have chimed in earlier if I had seen this. Yes, the PCB is a telephone-service distribution panel, where you take inbound pairs from the Telco and you're just bridging it out to all the other jacks/drops that you punch down. It's not useful for ethernet network data cabling. Yes, the 12-port patch panel (110-style) will work to give you proper ethernet jacks to use for a switched network. It also comes with its own wall mounting bracket so you don't need a wall rack for it. In fact, a 19" relay rack wouldn't even work for this patch panel because it's a totally different form factor. If the wiring at the panel is cut short, then I suggest you skip the panel and just buy a handful of 110 keystone jacks and punch down into those... Otherwise you're looking at pulling new cable. You will want to have or borrow a tone kit and a cable testing kit so that you can identify and label each drop, and also test to make sure that the punches in the closet are done correctly all the way through to the wall-plate jacks. I highly recommend that you pop the wall plates off and check the wiring back there too. If you want to get EXTRA fancy, this is the actual network-PCB for that panel you've got: http://www.amazon.com/Data-Module-C...uperior+Modular 
CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 02:30
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I lagged out/lost connection with TeamSpeak server and an online game while playing with fellow Goons earlier today. Started digging, ran DSLReports speedtest and here's the result from my wired Win7 desktop: http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest/777299  During the upload phase, computer became almost non-responsive. Mouse pointer started jumping when I moved the mouse and a clip I was playing (from a local drive) heavily stuttered. Outcome was the same even after I restarted everything and turned off all unnecessary applications. Just for kicks, I turned my Macbook Pro on and ran the same test. Surprisingly, even though it's on wi-fi, the upload phase was smooth and speed was roughly 10x greater. Practically no bufferbloat either: http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest/777397  I ran both sets of tests multiple times and results didn't significantly change. Am I missing something obvious here? Isn't wired connection supposed to be faster? And/or am I retarded? I'm using motherboard-integrated network adapter (Intel 82579V Gigabit). Thanks. Unexpected fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 05:22
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Unexpected posted:I lagged out/lost connection with TeamSpeak server and an online game while playing with fellow Goons earlier today. Started digging, ran DSLReports speedtest and here's the result from my wired Win7 desktop: One easy thing to try is getting the drivers from the chipset manufacturer: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/47549/Intel-82579-Gigabit-Ethernet-Controller
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Jul 1, 2015 05:26
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Rexxed posted:One easy thing to try is getting the drivers from the chipset manufacturer: Didn't help... http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest/777468 
Unexpected fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 05:32
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If your macbook pro has a wired network port, take the cable from your windows desktop and plug it in. If the Macbook w/ wired connection works normally, then it's something wrong with the desktop. You can eliminate driver issues etc by using a bootable linux USB stick or CD. If it's still broken on the desktop even with a clean environment, then it's probably a bad or failing network card and you can just add another one on, or get a USB network adapter. If the Macbook has problems when plugged in then it's probably a bad patch cable or port on your switch/router. (or possibly a bad router)
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Jul 1, 2015 06:24
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CrazyLittle posted:If your macbook pro has a wired network port, take the cable from your windows desktop and plug it in. If the Macbook w/ wired connection works normally, then it's something wrong with the desktop. You can eliminate driver issues etc by using a bootable linux USB stick or CD. If it's still broken on the desktop even with a clean environment, then it's probably a bad or failing network card and you can just add another one on, or get a USB network adapter. It's something with my computer. I followed your steps - wired Macbook was just as fast as wifi, so I created an Ubuntu bootable CD and here you go - dramatically better than Windows: http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest/777855  I updated my Intel drivers already and checked installed programs - there aren't any (obvious) "network managers" on my PC. Any ideas on what to do/check next? Thanks again.
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Jul 1, 2015 07:51
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Unexpected posted:It's something with my computer. I followed your steps - wired Macbook was just as fast as wifi, so I created an Ubuntu bootable CD and here you go - dramatically better than Windows: If you still have the installer for the most recent drivers for your NIC, try completely uninstalling it from the Device Manager (uninstall drivers too, if you get the option), rebooting and then reinstalling the most recent drivers. May help.
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Jul 1, 2015 07:55
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Diviance posted:If you still have the installer for the most recent drivers for your NIC, try completely uninstalling it from the Device Manager (uninstall drivers too, if you get the option), rebooting and then reinstalling the most recent drivers. Didin't work. My motherboards (Asus P8P67 Deluxe) has two ethernet ports (Intel & Realtek). Both behave as before (lovely)  Would buying a new card "solve" this problem? They're cheap - for example this one: TP-LINK for $13 And I really don't want to having to reinstall my OS. I'd rather not buy Intel (or Realtek) because I may end up with the same issue (same/similar software). What do you think? Unexpected fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 08:38
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Unexpected posted:Didin't work. My motherboards (Asus P8P67 Deluxe) has two ethernet ports (Intel & Realtek). Both behave as before (lovely) If it happens on both ports, but works on a livecd... a new card would likely do gently caress all. It has been a while since I really messed with networking stuff, but maybe try resetting the TCP/IP stack and winsock? a. Press Windows +X. b. Click Command prompt (Admin mode) c. Type ‘netsh int ip reset’ d. Press enter. e. Type 'netsh winsock reset' f. Press enter. g. Reboot the computer. (Yes, pressing enter should be common sense but... well, just in case.)
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Jul 1, 2015 09:14
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Unexpected posted:Didin't work. My motherboards (Asus P8P67 Deluxe) has two ethernet ports (Intel & Realtek). Both behave as before (lovely) This may be something you want to bring over to Haus of Tech Support.
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Jul 1, 2015 11:04
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I just moved into a new apartment this past weekend and am was finally able to switch from Comcast to XFinity. I set up the verizon router but unfortunately it has to be in the front of this long house and apparently it has sucky range. Right now it only covers the living room, kitchen and 1 bedroom leaving the 2nd bedroom and (small) backyard as deadspots as well as part of the basement. I have an Cisco E-Series router that I was using in my old apartment, can I set that up as an access point in the first bedroom to extend the range or does it have to be connected to the router via a Cat5 cable to work effectively as an AP? If so, are there any cableless options that won't break the bank I could use?
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Jul 1, 2015 15:55
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Unexpected posted:Didin't work. My motherboards (Asus P8P67 Deluxe) has two ethernet ports (Intel & Realtek). Both behave as before (lovely) flosofl posted:This may be something you want to bring over to Haus of Tech Support. Sounds like Windows herpes to me. Check yo dick, son. (It's probably windows-level / software-level and not directly NIC related at all. You could probably put a wifi NIC in there and still have the same issue. Some piece of software is loving with your network stack.)
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Jul 1, 2015 20:07
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CrazyLittle posted:Sounds like Windows herpes to me. Check yo dick, son. RIP me... Created a thread in Haus of Tech Support. At least long weekend is coming - great time to reinstall EVERYTHING.
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Jul 1, 2015 20:15
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For the record, Intel is a go-to for wired NICs, and it seems really loving weird that your mobo would have two integrated NICs from different chipmakers.
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Jul 1, 2015 20:25
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I work with about 100 different motherboard chipsets for my job and seeing multiple brand NICs is quite common. It occurs when you have a consumer-level chipset that Intel licenses with 1 NIC but the manufacturer wants to add a second. It's cheaper to add a Realtek NIC than license a second Intel NIC. You rarely see it on server boards however because server boards can pass that cost along no problem.
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Jul 1, 2015 21:21
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Inspector_666 posted:For the record, Intel is a go-to for wired NICs, and it seems really loving weird that your mobo would have two integrated NICs from different chipmakers. Not really, this happens all the time. MB companies have one Intel NIC, and then another one from Realtek or Atheros or whoever on consumer boards.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:23
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Weird, although I guess the only non-server mobo with dual NICs I've dealt with is my own, which is just two Realteks.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:26
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nesbit37 posted:I just moved into a new apartment this past weekend and am was finally able to switch from Comcast to XFinity. I set up the verizon router but unfortunately it has to be in the front of this long house and apparently it has sucky range. Right now it only covers the living room, kitchen and 1 bedroom leaving the 2nd bedroom and (small) backyard as deadspots as well as part of the basement. I have an Cisco E-Series router that I was using in my old apartment, can I set that up as an access point in the first bedroom to extend the range or does it have to be connected to the router via a Cat5 cable to work effectively as an AP? If so, are there any cableless options that won't break the bank I could use? Wire it in with some power line adapters and then use it as an AP. Set it to a different channel but give it the same SSID and encryption settings.
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Jul 2, 2015 17:43
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So, I'm stuck with a netgear wnr2000v3, and it sucks . I'm finding all kinds of conflicting information about installing custom firmware to it, one place will say "You totally can," another says "No don't you'll brick it," and still others say "You technically can, but you have to downgrade the firmware, install a special version of the custom firmware, and make an offering to Cthulhu." Even on the ddWRT and openWRT sites I'm getting conflicting information, and filenames that seem to point to completely different models. Could a helpful goon give me some definite information?
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Jul 2, 2015 23:05
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I need to figure out a wireless solution for my future in-law's beach houses. There are two houses about 30ft apart, with the cable modem in one house. Running Cat5/6 cable between the houses isn't really an option, one of the houses is a log cabin and it would be a pain to drill and fish... So wireless it is. We need a router in the first house, for local wifi, and then to connect we would use something like this x2: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004EGI3CI/ And then another router on the other end. My concern with which router to pick for either end as there are some 2.4ghz only devices, and we need a decent amount of range. A lot of activities happen outside on the large lawn or even down on the dock. When things are working right at the moment, all is well. But the old-rear end WRT120N drops out way too much and sometimes the extender (EX2700) shits the bucket too. There isn't really a budget, but cheaper is better... Input welcome.
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Jul 5, 2015 02:52
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I knocked my old D-Link dir-615 onto the basement floor and now it won't power on. This thing was amazing. I basically plugged it in like... 6 years ago(?) and it's worked great 24/7/365. I only skimmed the last 10 or so pages but it seems people are recommending Asus and TP-Link products. I'm willing to spend up to $150, and I think I've narrowed my decisions down to the Archer C8 and Asus RT-AC66U. Would either of these be a good choice? I have a lot of AC capable devices these days, so I'd appreciate decent wireless performance. Might attach some storage to it too. E: wormil posted:FYI, Newegg had C7s for $50, refurbished. The C7 seems solid too. Is there a huge difference between the C7 and C8? I don't usually buy refurbished electronics but I'm not completely against the idea. Mental Hospitality fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jul 7, 2015 |
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Jul 7, 2015 02:38
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FYI, Newegg had C7s for $50, refurbished.
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Jul 7, 2015 02:49
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For long lived router stories, I had to finally replace our last FVS318 (only one that died as opposed to being upgraded to something newer) and I realized it was at least 15 years old, which seems kind of crazy.
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Jul 7, 2015 03:20
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Dogen posted:For long lived router stories, I had to finally replace our last FVS318 (only one that died as opposed to being upgraded to something newer) and I realized it was at least 15 years old, which seems kind of crazy. My parents are still rocking some Netgear router that has a partially melted case, it must be at least 7 years old at this point.
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Jul 7, 2015 14:38
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A fax line, that has a short somewhere, I am tasked with replacing is rj-11 plug, the only wires used are the middle two pins on white-blue, both solid. Can someone explain to be like I'm an idiot why this works with only two wires?
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Jul 8, 2015 21:34
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Deep Winter posted:A fax line, that has a short somewhere, I am tasked with replacing is rj-11 plug, the only wires used are the middle two pins on white-blue, both solid. Can someone explain to be like I'm an idiot why this works with only two wires? Telephone uses 2 conductors. The 4 wires in a lot of household phone installs are to provide an extra pair for a second line, but each line only uses two wires.
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Jul 8, 2015 21:43
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Rexxed posted:Telephone uses 2 conductors. The 4 wires in a lot of household phone installs are to provide an extra pair for a second line, but each line only uses two wires. Yes, and non-PoE 10/100mbit connections only used the 1,2,3 and 6 wires. The best explanation I've seen is that 4 pair/RJ-45 was initially developed for carrying multiple analog voice signals and was simply adopted for digital networking, but I've never seen any sourcing on it. Just convincing arguments.
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Jul 8, 2015 21:57
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Rexxed posted:Telephone uses 2 conductors. The 4 wires in a lot of household phone installs are to provide an extra pair for a second line, but each line only uses two wires. I see, thanks. In this case the two lines are blue and white. How do I know what the correct color pairs are? I
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Jul 8, 2015 22:30
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Deep Winter posted:I see, thanks. In this case the two lines are blue and white. How do I know what the correct color pairs are? I Blue and white? The only 4 wire stuff I've ever come across is Red Green Yellow Black. I've seen Blue and White on 6 wire hookups (but those were pretty rare). http://www.westernet.net/Help/RJ45.htm
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Jul 8, 2015 22:52
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Deep Winter posted:I see, thanks. In this case the two lines are blue and white. How do I know what the correct color pairs are? I Just make sure one end is the opposite of the other one (this is unlike ethernet), so one end will be BRGY (Black Red Green Yellow) hook down, the other end will be YGRB hook down. The primary line will be red and green (middle 2 wires) while the secondary is yellow and black (outside wires, unused in your instance). Since you're using more than 2 pair wires, the color won't be these standard ones, but it literally does not matter as long as the middle 2 positions in the modular jack are connected and the ends are reversed. I've seen plenty of houses from the 70s and 80s with like 8 pairs in a rainbow of colors, in which case the only trick is finding the ones that are live. It's usually color and white-color because you want the pair that's in use to be twisted together to reduce interference/crosstalk.
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Jul 8, 2015 22:55
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flosofl posted:Yes, and non-PoE 10/100mbit connections only used the 1,2,3 and 6 wires. The best explanation I've seen is that 4 pair/RJ-45 was initially developed for carrying multiple analog voice signals and was simply adopted for digital networking, but I've never seen any sourcing on it. Just convincing arguments. Another nice quirk of this that is you can run 10/100 Ethernet and a phone line on a single RJ-45/cat5e cable using an adapter. The comparatively high voltage of the phone line hurts the Ethernet throughput a little due to RFI but not so much that you would notice it in most situations. Handy for situations when 10/100 is fast enough and running more than one cable for the phone and the PC is difficult or impractical. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 16:43
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The fax line I mentioned before: it's a one pair (blue/white) cat3 cable going directly from the printer to the network interface box in the server room. No wall panel. Is there a shock risk here if I crimp a new rj-11 head onto the cable without messing around in the network interface box?
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Jul 9, 2015 20:00
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Deep Winter posted:The fax line I mentioned before: it's a one pair (blue/white) cat3 cable going directly from the printer to the network interface box in the server room. No wall panel. Is there a shock risk here if I crimp a new rj-11 head onto the cable without messing around in the network interface box? On traditional phone lines there is a current of 48 volts running as long as the phone isn't off the hook. This isn't really enough to be dangerous but you will feel a bit of a tingle if you touch the bare wires. When someone picks up the phone the current drops to about 3-9 volts. This is too little to be felt. However when the phone rings the voltage jumps up to around 90-100. This can be dangerous depending on the entry and exit points on your body. At the very least it will be incredibly loving painful. Disconnecting the line from the fax machine/printer will not stop this surge of current from the POTS switching station if someone calls the line. If you are messing with the wires when someone tries to fax you, you are going to get one hell of a shock. This is why the electrical contacts on the RJ-11 head are recessed into the plastic. It keeps you from touching them directly. Always disconnect lines before you work on them. I would disconnect the cable from the network interface box before messing with the RJ-11 head at the printer end of the cable. Antillie fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 20:38
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Is the router guide list in the OP considered up to date and relevant? Looks like it's two and a half years old.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:06
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bawfuls posted:Is the router guide list in the OP considered up to date and relevant? Looks like it's two and a half years old. No it's woefully outdated.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:52
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