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Can anyone recommend a good online store for parts? I need a wheel hub assembly for my 2003 Chevy Silverado but all the local parts stores want around $170 for one. I have found a few sites online offering the exact same parts much cheaper but don't know if they're trustworthy.
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Jul 4, 2015 01:08
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https://www.rockauto.com
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Jul 4, 2015 01:18
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1500quidporsche posted:What's the best DOT 4 brake fluid avaliable in north america? ATE (gold or blue - I switch on each change so I know I have a full bleed)
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Jul 4, 2015 03:11
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Motronic posted:ATE (gold or blue - I switch on each change so I know I have a full bleed) Blue isn't for sale in the U.S. anymore.  loving ridiculous.
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Jul 4, 2015 03:26
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BlackMK4 posted:Blue isn't for sale in the U.S. anymore. SERIOUSLY? Had to look this up. http://hooniverse.kinja.com/braking-news-ate-super-blue-illegal-for-u-s-distribut-1153557989/1154188522 I guess my stash is gonna run out then. I only have 2 more cans of blue. How loving ridiculous is that?
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Jul 4, 2015 04:10
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When do you know if your car's a lemon? I bought an 02 Ford Focus ZTS about a month ago, in seemingly great condition with some good upkeep. The prepurchase inspection was fine, showing only a worn motor mount and sway bar links. Those were fixed, but since then the cooling system went bananas, to the tune of 1300 (though we definitely got the shaft there). And now, there's another suspension issue, either a strut or strut mount. I don't mind paying this stuff if it means we're good to go, but the fact that they happened so soon after buying is worrying. If there some way to know that my car isn't going to fall apart any more soon, beyond the inspections that didn't see these things anyway? Or was it just bad luck that they happened so soon?
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Jul 4, 2015 23:09
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Were you told the suspension had been recently replaced prior to purchase? Swaybar endlinks needing to be replaced should have also been a sign the suspension needed replacing as well since they're typically done at the same time. I would do the whole suspension and not just replace a single shock/strut. Ford racing still sells the SVT suspension kit for the MkI Focus - for around $250 you get performance valved shocks/struts, mild lowering springs (.5 inch drop) and a 2mm thicker RSB. It is by far the best bang for your buck as far as suspension for the Focus is concerned.
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Jul 4, 2015 23:25
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The SVT suspension is definitely worth it. I installed it on my 02 SE and it was a significant improvement over the OE stuff at around 80k miles.
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Jul 4, 2015 23:27
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Geoj posted:Were you told the suspension had been recently replaced prior to purchase? Swaybar endlinks needing to be replaced should have also been a sign the suspension needed replacing as well since they're typically done at the same time. what
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Jul 4, 2015 23:28
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Ozmiander posted:what Here, let me spoon feed you the post I was replying to: The Swinemaster posted:The prepurchase inspection was fine, showing only a worn motor mount and sway bar links. TL;DR he bought a used 10+ year old car, was told the swaybar endlinks needed to be replaced and is now surprised there is more suspension work required. Geoj fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jul 4, 2015 |
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Jul 4, 2015 23:33
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Geoj posted:Here, let me spoon feed you the post I was replying to: Don't be a douche.
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Jul 4, 2015 23:41
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The suspension as a whole wasn't replaced, but the front springs were replaced 2 years ago. I know it can be a good deal to get the whole packages of strut and spring, but if the springs are ok then it may not be worth it. But thanks for the info about sway bar links being done at the same time - I hadn't heard that. I thought that the links were just a fast wearing part. The Swinemaster fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 01:01
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They are, but until they make noise people ignore them. Since they attach directly to the front struts and the nut/stud they attach with tend to freeze together or strip out when you try to remove them while replacing the rest of the suspension, and therefore have to be replaced. Really though, when buying a 13 year old car suspension is something I'd expect to have to replace unless you were specifically told it had been recently replaced.
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Jul 5, 2015 01:44
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Glad to know that, cheers. I came from a 92 Olds, so I somehow had it in my head that an 02 is a "new" car.
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Jul 5, 2015 04:30
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The Swinemaster posted:Glad to know that, cheers. I came from a 92 Olds, so I somehow had it in my head that an 02 is a "new" car. Yeah, it's kind of a wake up call when you realize how long ago that thing was actually built. too loving long ago
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Jul 5, 2015 06:18
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2015 11:08
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Swaybar links meaning you should expect to redo the whole suspension, then suggesting a kit that includes absolutely no bushings or balljoints  I agree that cars that old start needing suspension work eventually, but not "replace all of it immediately" level issues. Springs and shocks should be replaced as a pair, otherwise I would stick to doing the part that needs replacing and anything else cheap (bushings, balljoints, etc) that had to be undone anyways to get at the parts being replaced. This does not always mean replacing all of it at once. If you are going to do it piecemeal, get a firestone lifetime alignment so you can have it realigned after each repair for free instead of another 70 bucks per visit.
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Jul 5, 2015 11:31
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2015 16:11
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kastein posted:Swaybar links meaning you should expect to redo the whole suspension, then suggesting a kit that includes absolutely no bushings or balljoints Because those parts aren't available anywhere else if you don't buy it as part of a kit? kastein posted:I agree that cars that old start needing suspension work eventually, but not "replace all of it immediately" level issues. Springs and shocks should be replaced as a pair, otherwise I would stick to doing the part that needs replacing and anything else cheap (bushings, balljoints, etc) that had to be undone anyways to get at the parts being replaced. This does not always mean replacing all of it at once. The Swinemaster posted:Question about a 2002 Ford Focus ZTS with the DOHC engine, 180,000 km. That's 111,000 miles. Yes, I would replace all of the suspension at once on a 13 year old car with that many miles where the rest of the suspension is an unknown quantity and could potentially be what it rolled off the assembly line with. Actually, I would argue that replacing a single shock/strut and leaving whatever was on the car when he bought it is borderline dangerous since you'll be unbalancing things with one brand new shock and leaving three (likely) blown to poo poo shocks. Extra posted:Lets ask more focus questions! When you say #4 coil pack - does your car have coil on plug? If so it's likely a 2.3 Duratec, otherwise there were CoP kits sold for the Zetec but they're about as rare as unicorns. If you have a Zetec with the regular coil, there was a major problem with the wires on the coil harness being too short and fraying over time. Check the three wire pigtail right at the connector where it plugs into the coil, if this is worn you can obtain a replacement pigtail from Ford (part #3U2Z-14S411-TNA.) e: or here. Extra posted:I'd like tougher dampers that can be used with the stock springs. Maybe Geoj or someone else would know if the "SVT" dampers/struts can be used with the stock springs. I know in the case of the rear suspension due to the control blade configuration it shouldn't be an issue. Honestly I can't think of a reason to not use the SVT springs that come with kit M3000ZX3 (only drops the car a half inch and is nearly identical to the stock ride until you start to push the car), however if you just want the SVT dampers there is also kit M18000ZX3 which is just the shocks/struts, plus top mount bearings and spring seats for the front shocks. Geoj fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 16:36
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Geoj posted:Actually, I would argue that replacing a single shock/strut and leaving whatever was on the car when he bought it is borderline dangerous since you'll be unbalancing things with one brand new shock and leaving three (likely) blown to poo poo shocks. And in the post you loving quoted: kastein posted:Springs and shocks should be replaced as a pair Are you just off your meds or are you always like this about suspension and power generation? I didn't give you that title but it was well deserved and it is even funnier since you removed it like 5 minutes later. Jesus man. At least up here in the potholed, rusted north, swaybar links are a wear item that goes out well before our paltry emaciated sun ever manages to come close to cooking the bushings. I've seen factory bushings with 200k miles on them that had great looking rubber, replaced them because I was in there anyways and figured I should, and had the drat premium grade replacement fail in 6 months to the point that it was direct metal on metal contact. This is why I say unless it is a spring or damping element... replace it if it looks bad, or if you are in there and it looks suspect. Otherwise leave it alone.
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Jul 5, 2015 17:00
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kastein posted:And in the post you loving quoted: Which I read as "replace the pair, spring and shock." I apologize for upsetting you, I'll be sure to run all of my future posts by you for approval. Was my reply to Extra acceptable for you or is there something in that you'd like to take issue with as well? Geoj fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 17:12
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2015 17:36
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Extra posted:That CFM replacement pigtail is definitely the same design as what's on it now, of course with longer wires. I may go grab a stock example from the JY and see if I can't just make my own cheap version of that. I just looked at the price on CFM...jesus gently caress that's high, when I bought one in 2005 it was under $20 from the dealer. I guess that's what happens when the car has been out of production for over 10 years. If you can find a good one at a junkyard by all means that's the route I would take. Sad thing is the wires only need maybe another quarter inch to not be so tight.
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Jul 5, 2015 23:58
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2012 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 3.6L/auto. Cruise control hasn't been working for a while. I figured it was the steering wheel buttons because they're kind of lovely. So's the clockspring, so there's another possible culprit. Whatever, I didn't feel like sorting it out. Until I started randomly started getting a warning chime and the ABS and traction control lights would flicker...it would be over in a fraction of a second. The first couple of times it was over before my eyes even got to the gauges. Sometimes it's a little longer, so I've gotten a look at the dash when it happens. Still, no more than about a second, tops. When I say random, I mean it's happened when I'm stopped at a light, on the brakes to slow down, cruising at highway speeds. I can find no pattern. And it's very intermittent. Sometimes twice a day, but I've also gone 4-5 days without it happening at all. I've got some DTCs from Torque Pro: P0593 Speed Control Switch 2 Circuit High P0581 Speed Control Switch 1 Circuit High P0591 Speed Control Switch 2 Performance P0579 Speed Control Switch 1 Performance P3005 ??? The first four seem pretty straightforward, though I haven't dug into what that actually means. I'm guessing the clockspring or controls, but my main question is the last one. None of the lists I've checked has that code. I get search results for EVs and Pruises, but nothing else. I did check the rear wheel speed sensors, they appear to be ok and the wiring looks intact. The flickering made me think it might be a loose wire. I can remove the rears without even jacking the thing up, so I figured I'd take a look even though I don't think that's the problem. The front sensors are more of a hassle to get to. Edit: Ok, P3005: Engine coolant heater relay 2, high output. So uh...what is that? Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jul 6, 2015 |
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Jul 6, 2015 01:41
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Good news is these engines live with abuse pretty well. Try Marvel Mystery Oil and if that doesn't clear it up,you could go further in depth or just live with it. Well, I decided this was a problem that could live until after my trip, so I drove ~600 highway miles on it. At about 400, the check engine light came on. The car is noticeably down on power, and now it sounds like it's got rod knock. Of course nobody was open at 8pm on Sunday, so I said "I'll just drive until I window the block or start smelling funny things." The "knock" only occurs under acceleration. Is this a collapsed lifter, and am I right about to ruin the engine, or can I drive to the auto parts store to get stuff to repair this? How about getting the stuff needed from a junkyard?
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Jul 6, 2015 14:08
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Geoj posted:Which I read as "replace the pair, spring and shock." That won't be necessary, I am pretty sure I and everyone else (though I can't speak for them) would be perfectly alright with you posting, just not posting bad and wrong things.  Extra posted:Huh that's super cool to hear from your experience. I was considering ordering new ball joints, sway bar bushings + end links, tie rod ends, and control arms for the Paseo. Hearing that it might be better to just keep the stock stuff until an issue appears is music to my wallet. More money means more seat time! As I recall you autocross it. Or is that the Ford? For DD style A to B driving, what I said holds. If you want performance handling though, you don't want old squishy (but not cracked or loose) bushings deflecting and potentially loving up your toe/camber/caster by a tiny bit during aggressive cornering, or TREs and balljoints being close to getting loose, even if they pass the prybar test, so I would probably freshen it up. Unless something is definitely broken, it is all about what you expect from the vehicle.
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Jul 6, 2015 15:22
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Well, I decided this was a problem that could live until after my trip, so I drove ~600 highway miles on it. At about 400, the check engine light came on. The car is noticeably down on power, and now it sounds like it's got rod knock. Of course nobody was open at 8pm on Sunday, so I said "I'll just drive until I window the block or start smelling funny things." Quoting myself because reasons. More internet research and listening to the thing sounds EXACTLY like a collapsed lifter. What's my parts list for this thing? Lifters + rollers + cams? Just lifters and rollers? Anyone got a FSM for this repair?
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Jul 6, 2015 19:53
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Quoting myself because reasons. Depending on how much time/money you have either scrounge some good lifters and dump them in your motor if it hasn't started wiping the cam, or source another engine asap.
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Jul 6, 2015 19:58
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Ozmiander posted:Depending on how much time/money you have either scrounge some good lifters and dump them in your motor if it hasn't started wiping the cam, or source another engine asap. Am I misunderstanding how a 3800 works or something cause I can't imagine why a bad lifter would hurt your cam at all - it'd be putting less load on it because it absorbs some of the force instead of transmitting all of it to the valve spring. With one of those engines I'd just go to a wrecker, grab a fistful of lifters and find the good ones.
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Jul 6, 2015 20:00
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It's possible the lifter is clacking because you have a trashed cam lobe. No way to know for sure until you break into the engine. Unless the 3800 is some special beast, the lifter/roller is a single unit. If the lifter is all it is, you should be able to pull it and swap in another one if you just want to get it going. Could also be a broken rocker arm, broken valvespring, bent pushrod...
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Jul 6, 2015 21:16
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Slavvy posted:Am I misunderstanding how a 3800 works or something cause I can't imagine why a bad lifter would hurt your cam at all - it'd be putting less load on it because it absorbs some of the force instead of transmitting all of it to the valve spring. If it stays collapsed, the cam lobe is going to be smashing into the lifter (or, if the slack is elsewhere, there will still be shock loading) instead of a constant force on it. I can't imagine that's good for it, even though it's a nice forging. Do the 3800s use the same lifters as the roller small blocks? Those should be easy to find, if so.
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Jul 7, 2015 05:54
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Raluek posted:If it stays collapsed, the cam lobe is going to be smashing into the lifter (or, if the slack is elsewhere, there will still be shock loading) instead of a constant force on it. I can't imagine that's good for it, even though it's a nice forging. Ok. I found the parts on Rockauto. $5 each for a package of 16. I guess there's a reason they're sold in packs of 16 for a V6 engine. IOwnCalculus posted:It's possible the lifter is clacking because you have a trashed cam lobe. No way to know for sure until you break into the engine. Fundamentally, this is a $500 car that's gotta last me two months of around town (very infrequently) and then 1200miles. I'll put seafoam and mystery oil in it if that will extend the life of the motor out past that timeframe, or up to $500 in additional parts.
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Jul 7, 2015 06:23
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My girlfriend's 2010 3.8 Gen Coupe with the 18" wheels is in need of some new rubber. I was thinking of either suggesting the Continental ExtremeContact DW or the Bridgestone Potenza RE760. The stock tire sizes are 225/45r18 and 245/45r18. Is there any reason to go with one over the other, aside from maybe going by if one is more affordable? The car won't see any extreme usage, mostly freeway and city roads; I haven't convinced her to take it to an autocross, yet.
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Jul 7, 2015 06:40
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Ok. I found the parts on Rockauto. $5 each for a package of 16. I guess there's a reason they're sold in packs of 16 for a V6 engine. Probably the same lifter as the V8, so they're packaged in the larger quantities, if I had to guess. I'd just get a used one or something, or buy one in quantity 1 from Summit Racing or even your local GM dealer. I just looked at a picture, and those sure do look like an '86+ V8 roller lifter. A popular upgrade is the LS7 lifter, which is all GM stocks anymore. Point being, you can grab one from a junkyard, or just spend a couple extra bucks to get one somewhere else, so you can skip having to buy a whole set from Rock. Normally I wouldn't suggest that, but since you're just trying to limp it along...
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Jul 7, 2015 07:15
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The girlfriend's dad has a first-gen CR-V, and his driver's door is stuck in the closed position. From what I can see it's some sort of an issue with the actuator itself; the mechanism for the door handle isn't actually moving anything in the actuator, and I'm thinking its binding somewhere, since the handle isn't coming all the way back into the housing in the interior. I've been messing with it for a bit trying to get it to open, but I can't get into the mechanism to do anything. The door lock itself seems to be frozen, but frozen in the unlocked position. Does anyone have a way to get the door to open? I'm stumped. Edit: I'm fully aware I'm probably missing something incredibly simple.
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Jul 7, 2015 19:43
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I am in gently caress town with my Mitsubishi space wagon and need to rebuild my transmission (model f5m42) since buying a "new" (Read: used) one is expensive and that one will break anyway. So I need a rebuild kit and was wondering whether anyone had any experience buying stuff from http://www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/ ? Seems to be the only place that has them and they seem to ship to Europe as well.
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Jul 7, 2015 20:31
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Professor Bling posted:The girlfriend's dad has a first-gen CR-V, and his driver's door is stuck in the closed position. From what I can see it's some sort of an issue with the actuator itself; the mechanism for the door handle isn't actually moving anything in the actuator, and I'm thinking its binding somewhere, since the handle isn't coming all the way back into the housing in the interior. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw-0p8Z21S0 Video of a guy opening (unlocking) a door with a coat hanger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgPLe5oRfQc Unlocking and opening work the same way, the only difference is there's two different rods. Pull one, it unlocks? Pull the other, it opens.
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Jul 7, 2015 20:33
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~2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE, 100K + on it. Last thing to be replaced was brakes, ~1 year ago. Got in a fenderbender, now the hood won't open. Car was due for some maintenance (general engine checkover / oil change / etc.) before the accident, now I can't get it done unless I fix the hood, which a body shop quoted me 1200+ for. Parts alone is ~600, so I think they might be right. The car is worth 1500 at absolute max on a trade-in... I should ditch this thing, shouldn't I? The only problem is that it's my DD and I don't have anything else I can use. Spend 1200+ whatever else for peace of mind while shopping, or just cross fingers?
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Jul 8, 2015 00:17
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Bend all the poo poo that got bent in the fender bender until the hood will open again - unless it's just plain too caved in to be able to do that. They are quoting price to make it look good again, all you need is for the hood to open again. Unless you just want a new car, in which case, that's your decision, just don't kid yourself about why you're doing it.
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Jul 8, 2015 00:19
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SilentW posted:~2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE, 100K + on it. Last thing to be replaced was brakes, ~1 year ago. What kastein said. If it's too bent, drill some holes in the bend, put through a stiff bit of wire and pull it out if you can't hammer it from the underside. You can also use a plunger (without the holes) if the dent is small enough.
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Jul 8, 2015 00:22
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