|
You can always open the hood. You just can't always close it again. But do what everyone else said. Alternatively say gently caress it and see how long it goes on one oil change.
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 00:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
Hood opening tool: Hood closing tool: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 00:48
|
|
|
So my truck, 95 ford f150 with the 4.9 straight six, shows what I'd say to be 10 volts on the dash, but when I checked the terminal posts with a multimeter it showed 13 and some change while the truck was running. I called my friend to make sure I was doing it right (DC 20 selected, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal, ect). So maybe I just suck at reading the dash gauge? The gauge is this one here and the needle is right on the "n" of normal. Surely that's not 13ish? I love my gauges, don't tell me they're poo poo  
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 01:12
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:So my truck, 95 ford f150 with the 4.9 straight six, shows what I'd say to be 10 volts on the dash, but when I checked the terminal posts with a multimeter it showed 13 and some change while the truck was running. I called my friend to make sure I was doing it right (DC 20 selected, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal, ect). The only precision you can count on it for is that it will generally show the same value for "normal" voltage. Not a CORRECT value, but a consistent one. Oil pressure (if you have it) is the same. (My '00 Mustang is like this too.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 01:20
|
|
|
Yeah, those gauges are mostly meaningless on the majority of cars and only serve to make people feel better/add perceived features and value.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 01:34
|
|
|
SilentW posted:~2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE, 100K + on it. Last thing to be replaced was brakes, ~1 year ago. Do you have some special-snowflake paint color? You could probably get a junkyard hood for less than $600, it might not match perfectly but it also won't cost more than half of what the car is worth. If you don't mind being a bit  you could also get a hood panel from an aftermarket body part supplier for under $100 and a few cans of flat black/tractor paint.
Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jul 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 01:36
|
|
|
Nthing that it's probably an idiot light, but on the off chance it isn't, 13 is dead center between 8 and 18, so if that's where the needle sits that would be about right. 10 would be closer to the 8 than to the center of the gauge sweep.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 01:43
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Yeah, those gauges are mostly meaningless on the majority of cars and only serve to make people feel better/add perceived features and value. I'd been told that about the oil pressure gauge right here in this forum; I think the story was something like they previously had so much trouble with low oil pressure readings that ford made even the most minimal of reading hit the "it's fine!!" spot on the gauge. I didn't want to think that inexactitude also applied to my other gauges. I get a stupid thrill out of looking at them. Oh well, they DO seem consistent so I'll content myself with that. I still like that they're green, reminds me of an old jet hud (aping cold war military sophistication may be intentional. Alternately, only so many colors it could be).
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 02:12
|
|
|
SilentW posted:~2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE, 100K + on it. Last thing to be replaced was brakes, ~1 year ago. If you can't bash it out, find one in a junkyard and remove the hood. There's nothing to it, just a handful of bolts. You'll want another person to help though, it's heavy and you're removing the bolts that are keeping it from falling on you. It's a $1500 car, who cars if the paint doesn't match.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 02:19
|
|
|
BMW 7-Series, recent-but-not-current model. Rear tires said "Inside" on the outside. That's bad right? Newish tires, plenty of tread, but the driver was having real trouble with traction. Few months ago I saw a similar thing on a Mercedes roadster.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 02:21
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:BMW 7-Series, recent-but-not-current model. It would affect cornering, but asymmetric tires shouldn't affect acceleration or braking all that much just being on wrong; either way you're got one tire with "inside" facing right and one facing left. Should still be corrected, though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
1966 Mustang Previous owner painted over the chrome bumpers and some of the chrome trim. How can I remove the paint safely so I don't have to buy all new chrome? I'm not sure what kind of paint was used unfortunately
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Hood opening tool: I love you guys. Thanks for the reality check  I'm getting a new car car soon, yeah, and I think I'll just sit on this one until I do.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 02:46
|
|
|
SD-455 posted:1966 Mustang Whatever the best answer ends up being, don't just replace it. Take it or send it to a shop that can replate it (do some research, but one place with a solid rep is Virginia Vettes). You KNOW your chrome pieces fit. Repros or old stock might not fit as well. These shops can probably take the paint off, too, but there's probably a better answer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 03:12
|
|
|
Godholio posted:Whatever the best answer ends up being, don't just replace it. Take it or send it to a shop that can replate it (do some research, but one place with a solid rep is Virginia Vettes). You KNOW your chrome pieces fit. Repros or old stock might not fit as well. These shops can probably take the paint off, too, but there's probably a better answer. Thanks for the advice. I'm trying to save as many original pieces as possible, so I'm worried about using something too harsh. I've seen people suggest lacquer thinner, paint stripper, or oven cleaner so far
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 03:27
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:I'd been told that about the oil pressure gauge right here in this forum; I think the story was something like they previously had so much trouble with low oil pressure readings that ford made even the most minimal of reading hit the "it's fine!!" spot on the gauge. I didn't want to think that inexactitude also applied to my other gauges. I get a stupid thrill out of looking at them. Two wheeled anecdote: at one point Suzuki decided to put an oil temp gauge on their oil cooled sportsbike, the GSXR750. They deleted it the following year because of the number of people going to the dealer in a panic because it turns out oil gets really really really hot under normal operation. SD-455 posted:Thanks for the advice. I'm trying to save as many original pieces as possible, so I'm worried about using something too harsh. I've seen people suggest lacquer thinner, paint stripper, or oven cleaner so far Just use paint stripper or whatever. Solvents won't hurt the chrome, just avoid using any mechanical stripping method (sanding etc) and you'll be ok. There's a good chance the chrome is still mint and perfectly preserved because of the idiot PO!
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 04:15
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:I'd been told that about the oil pressure gauge right here in this forum; I think the story was something like they previously had so much trouble with low oil pressure readings that ford made even the most minimal of reading hit the "it's fine!!" spot on the gauge. I didn't want to think that inexactitude also applied to my other gauges. I get a stupid thrill out of looking at them. Ford gauges in general (except for temp) fall right to the middle if everything's fine. And yes, even the most minimal of oil pressure makes the oil pressure gauge jump to a hair above the middle on most of their vehicles with oil pressure "gauges". IIRC, on some of them you can swap the sending unit to get a real gauge, and on some models you do get an actual oil pressure gauge instead of an idiot light masquerading as a gauge. A good way to witness this for yourself: rev the engine to, say, 2500 RPM, when it's warm. Or just drive it and pay attention to the gauges. If they're real, oil pressure should move up (significantly) with engine RPM, and oil pressure will be sky high (almost pegged) when the engine is cold, even at idle. Voltmeter should also move up/down as you signal, use the brakes (power for the brake lights), turn on lights, engine RPM, etc, instead of just sitting in the same spot. Your alternator puts out significantly less power at idle than it does at cruising RPM. Pretty much any car today with an actual voltmeter will heavily dampen it so that it doesn't twitch with every flash of the turn signals, but you'll still see a difference between, say, idling with your headlights on, and cruising at highway speeds. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jul 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 04:37
|
|
|
as long as none of it is chrome plated plastic I would start with acetone, it will probably work, is reasonably benign compared to many other painting solvents, and leaves zero residue. (It might also be my favorite solvent ever. I use that stuff for drat near everything I can because it works and a little goes a long way.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 04:39
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Just use paint stripper or whatever. Solvents won't hurt the chrome, just avoid using any mechanical stripping method (sanding etc) and you'll be ok. There's a good chance the chrome is still mint and perfectly preserved because of the idiot PO! kastein posted:as long as none of it is chrome plated plastic I would start with acetone, it will probably work, is reasonably benign compared to many other painting solvents, and leaves zero residue. Awesome thanks! I'll give it a try
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 04:47
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:It would affect cornering, but asymmetric tires shouldn't affect acceleration or braking all that much just being on wrong; either way you're got one tire with "inside" facing right and one facing left. Should still be corrected, though. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 15:49
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:Well, I decided this was a problem that could live until after my trip, so I drove ~600 highway miles on it. At about 400, the check engine light came on. The car is noticeably down on power, and now it sounds like it's got rod knock. Of course nobody was open at 8pm on Sunday, so I said "I'll just drive until I window the block or start smelling funny things." I doubt the engine has rod knock (not saying its possible, just unlikely). IOwnCalculus posted:It's possible the lifter is clacking because you have a trashed cam lobe. No way to know for sure until you break into the engine. This. Take off the valve covers and take a look. http://www.thinkythings.org/3800/3800.html this website has lots of shots of the motor, take a look at it, should give you some direction.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2015 17:57
|
|
|
I need advice from someone who is familiar with the Ford Triton 5.4. I got Bank 1 done today w/ new plugs and coils (200k on obvious-original coils and mismatched plugs!), then it started to hail. Cyl 4 was the worst, but after getting that done, I've lost all drive to do the other side. Are there any tips or tricks to get the driver side done with slightly less bleeding and cursing? (2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer)
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 02:05
|
|
|
No, there will be more bleeding and cursing, especially in the back (loving master cylinder and booster in the way). I typically use some combination of a wobbler and u joint (yes, both at the same time on different length extensions) to get at the back ones.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 05:23
|
|
|
Motronic posted:No, there will be more bleeding and cursing, especially in the back (loving master cylinder and booster in the way). I already did #4, though (or 8 depending on your internet resource, which I pray is lying because it threw another P0308 code when I decided to 
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 05:39
|
|
|
Ford cylinders go 1-4 front to rear on the right (passenger's side in the US) bank, and 5-8 on the left. You haven't touched 8 yet.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 05:45
|
|
|
Flo Cytometer posted:I need advice from someone who is familiar with the Ford Triton 5.4. And then be thankful you're doing it in an expedition and not a mustang. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 05:54
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Ford cylinders go 1-4 front to rear on the right (passenger's side in the US) bank, and 5-8 on the left. You haven't touched 8 yet. Yeah. I saw several different diagrams, like this poo poo:  NO, this was NOT stated as firing order, obviously.. Krakkles posted:Loosen the engine mounts, lift the engine up.  If it was a Mustang, it may at least get out of its' own way. I enjoyed taking corners when driving it to get more gas, though (until I filled it). It had more body roll than Venus. drat that was amusing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 07:31
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Loosen the engine mounts, lift the engine up. Unless you're talking about the coils, then ok yeah I have no idea where those go to so maybe thats the hard part?
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 18:19
|
|
|
Cage posted:Spark plugs in a new edge? I just did them a few months ago, took less than an hour and all I had to do was take off the air intake. The coils are on top of the plugs and aren't hard - one 8mm bolt, pull, disconnect from harness.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 18:28
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:He's talking about the 5.4, which is significantly wider than the 4.6.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 18:29
|
|
|
Cage posted:Yeah but you said "you should be thankful you're not doing it in a mustang" so I just assumed you were talking about the mustang you own. My mustang doesn't have a 4.6L
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 18:30
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:I am Or did you do a 5.4 swap? I am so confused.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 18:33
|
|
|
Cage posted:Oh deng. Oops. Not easy in a 3.8? Yes, we swapped in a 5.4. The 4.6 was mistreated by the PO and since we were in there anyway, you know. Had to.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 18:37
|
|
|
How fuckin stupid would it be to daily drive an AP2 S2k year round in Boston?
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 20:16
|
|
|
I just got my 1998 Volvo V70R fixed. It's got a set of Continental Extremecontact DWS tires on it that were installed 20k miles ago. I've noticed it seems to squeal the tires in hard cornering at a much lower threshold than my Volvo 940 (equipped with Hankook Ventus s1 Noble 2s with about 8000 miles) does; I've never been able to get the 940 to squeal the tires. Is this to be expected, given that the V70R's front-biased AWD and weighs ~700 lbs more and has older tires, or can it be caused by my alignment being off? I know there's something up with the alignment, as the steering wheel's a couple degrees off center.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
I'm inclined to say that a different car on different tyres isn't a fair comparison, but if I'm understanding what you're meaning, it didn't do it before, so on that front, yes, you may want to get your alignment checked. The steering wheel not being straight doesn't necessarily indicate an alignment issue per se - if the alignment was set with it off-centre, it'll be off-centre despite everything else being perfect. If you're concerned, when you get it checked ask them to make sure the wheel is straight when straight ahead.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 22:03
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:I'm inclined to say that a different car on different tyres isn't a fair comparison, but if I'm understanding what you're meaning, it didn't do it before, so on that front, yes, you may want to get your alignment checked. It did do that before - it does it less now that I've upgraded the sway bars, but still more than the entirely different car. I'm just trying to figure out whether I can chalk it up to differences in the cars and tires, or something needing fixing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
So, are these notches worn into the wheel hub on my 2000 wrangler, driver front side, what is causing my wheel drag, and do I need to replace the whole thing to remedy the problem? The pads are asymmetrically worn on this one, so I know that I'll have to replace the fronts, at least. Edit: that's not the hub, what would I call that part? Edit 2: phone posting and forgot timg EightBit fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jul 10, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2015 23:57
|
|
|
That picture is loving ginormous, but yeah that's a common issue. You don't have it very bad yet, I've seen the notches 1/8" deep and a quarter inch wide. Grind them out until you get to shiny metal, stack MIG weld beads till it's proud of the surface, and grind/file down till it's all a straight smooth square edge again. All fixed. The knuckles are cast steel, not cast iron, so ignore all the redneck internet wisdom you'll get on jeep sites about that making them brittle, the knuckles cracking if you do that, blah blah bullshit. I've done this on 3-4 vehicles (and many of my friends have as well as hundreds or thousands of jeep owners worldwide) and so far I have heard of precisely zero knuckle failures. e: that's the outer steering knuckle.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2015 00:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
I remembered what it was called once I stepped into the shower. Unfortunately, I don't have a welder, nor can I easily get a decent one. No 220v connection except what the dryer uses, and it's a rented house. I need to check the other side for this and then fork out some more money to Rockauto. Local parts store wants literally double the price, though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2015 01:01
|
|