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Bought a mouse a month ago from Newegg, it's defective, should I deal with Newegg and exchange it or go through Logitech?
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Jul 2, 2015 18:36
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wormil posted:Bought a mouse a month ago from Newegg, it's defective, should I deal with Newegg and exchange it or go through Logitech? Logitech. Except I don't know if they'll ship first and then let you send it back. However, the last time I had to do RMA a mouse, several years ago, they just sent me one. I just had to RMA a G930 headset and I had to ship first but they covered everything
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Jul 2, 2015 18:39
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gariig posted:Logitech. Except I don't know if they'll ship first and then let you send it back. However, the last time I had to do RMA a mouse, several years ago, they just sent me one. I just had to RMA a G930 headset and I had to ship first but they covered everything Okay good, that's what I hoped.
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Jul 2, 2015 19:02
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Seconding the "Logitech sent a mouse and didn't give any fucks about the one it replaced." This was a G series (replaced a G500 with a G502,) the original was $60 and the replacement was only slightly less than that.
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Jul 3, 2015 04:29
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Does anyone in here have experience with PATA SSDs? I have a (very) old laptop with a great keyboard and screen that I would love to keep around if I could get some more performance out of it. I can find benchmarks for Transend and MyDigitalSSD which suggest they are fast SSDs, but I'm scared a lot of the off-brand stuff on Amazon (example) might just be Compact Flash adapters connected to cheap cards and thus much worse than a spinning disk. Plus I have no idea how reliable these are -- not in terms of cycles but in terms of "will the firmware crap out and destroy all my data"? Also kind of curious what the performance of stuff like this (Western Digital CF designed for use as an ATA drive) is. Chuu fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jul 3, 2015 |
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Jul 3, 2015 05:16
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Chuu posted:Does anyone in here have experience with PATA SSDs? I have a (very) old laptop with a great keyboard and screen that I would love to keep around if I could get some more performance out of it.
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Jul 3, 2015 19:34
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Chuu posted:Does anyone in here have experience with PATA SSDs? I have a (very) old laptop with a great keyboard and screen that I would love to keep around if I could get some more performance out of it. Honestly, CompactFlash adapter with a new fast CF card can do quite well, especially if you won't be doing a lot of writes to the drive constantly. I've been using this precise adapter for 3 years in my old Windows 98 laptop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B19HGA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The adapter hasn't broken, and this card I bought to go with it still works fine. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FRR1AE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage The CF card as compared to the old 4 GB like 4000 rpm drive it had in there uses a whole lot less power, and performs better all around then the hard drive it replaced. It's speed is primarily limited by the actual laptop hardware, as it performs faster in a USB 2.0 reader on my main computer. PATA SSDs should really only be used if you need a whole lot of space, and they tend to be very expensive for the good ones.
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Jul 3, 2015 19:47
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There are also things like this IDE-to-mSATA adapter, which would allow you to use any standard mSATA drive instead. Just don't expect actual SSD / flash transfer speeds out of things like this. The IDE interface itself is going to be a bottleneck.
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Jul 3, 2015 20:03
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McGlockenshire posted:There are also things like this IDE-to-mSATA adapter, which would allow you to use any standard mSATA drive instead. Just don't expect actual SSD / flash transfer speeds out of things like this. The IDE interface itself is going to be a bottleneck. Would this enable TRIM if the drive and OS support it? Thanks for the responses. I'm in it for the Random I/O for things like compiling software, and don't expect to get anywhere near a SATA SSD performance.
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Jul 3, 2015 20:39
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Chuu posted:Would this enable TRIM if the drive and OS support it?
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Jul 3, 2015 21:17
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McGlockenshire posted:There are also things like this IDE-to-mSATA adapter, which would allow you to use any standard mSATA drive instead. Just don't expect actual SSD / flash transfer speeds out of things like this. The IDE interface itself is going to be a bottleneck. That's the way I did it on my old Dell laptop - got a 240 gig mSATA 840 Pro and an adaptor, then made a 160 gig partition and left the rest free space. It works really well - compared to the old 4200rpm 40gig drive, it's rocketship fast, even considering the IDE bottleneck. Btw, I use this laptop for some serial port hardware that doesn't like USB adapters - that's why I did it.
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Jul 4, 2015 02:43
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I want to install another case fan, but my motherboard only has no more free fan pin connectors. The Internet recommends I buy a molex-to-3 pin converter. Is this a good solution? And the molex connectors are the ones thatccome of the PSU and say HDD/DVD, right?
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Jul 4, 2015 10:32
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DawnOfMinstrel posted:I want to install another case fan, but my motherboard only has no more free fan pin connectors. The Internet recommends I buy a molex-to-3 pin converter. Is this a good solution? And the molex connectors are the ones thatccome of the PSU and say HDD/DVD, right? HDD/DVD sounds like a sata power cable, which is different.  Sata is the black one on the left. Molex is the one on the right. The molex connector to 3 pin adapter will work fine. Only downside I can think of is you won't get rpm readings from it (whoopity) and it will run 100% speed at all times.
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Jul 4, 2015 10:49
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Cactus Jack posted:Sata is the black one on the left. Molex is the one on the right. Oh yeah, I got a ton of the white ones free. The SATA ones just say "SATA" on them. Thank you.
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Jul 4, 2015 11:17
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I posted about this problem before and now it seems to be coming back: sometimes my pc just won't start, and it will make a noise like someone trying to start a car that won't start for some reason and keep making that engine noises, but instead of engine it's some fan doing the noise, the gpu one I think, and the power led flickers a bit. I have to shut the PSU down, wait a bit, and then it will turn on, but there will be a warning during POST "Overclock failed", so at first I thought I was giving too little voltage to the processor, but even pumping up a lot more than it use to have it failed to start again this morning, and then, after the warning, I went into the BIOS and reduced the voltage to the old value instead of increasing and it's now working normally, prime 95 is running normally, etc. I'm guessing it's the PSU, it could be the mobo (a griphon Z87) right? I'm probably going to change the PSU anyways since it's a Seventeam and by far the brand that I least trust in my build. Edit: testing with furmark, a tool for GPU stress caused to card to fail, but I'm betting PSU still. program666 fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Jul 4, 2015 |
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Jul 4, 2015 13:20
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program666 posted:I posted about this problem before and now it seems to be coming back: sometimes my pc just won't start, and it will make a noise like someone trying to start a car that won't start for some reason and keep making that engine noises, but instead of engine it's some fan doing the noise, the gpu one I think, and the power led flickers a bit. I have to shut the PSU down, wait a bit, and then it will turn on, but there will be a warning during POST "Overclock failed", so at first I thought I was giving too little voltage to the processor, but even pumping up a lot more than it use to have it failed to start again this morning, and then, after the warning, I went into the BIOS and reduced the voltage to the old value instead of increasing and it's now working normally, prime 95 is running normally, etc.
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Jul 4, 2015 17:28
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Alereon posted:Oh yeah replace the power supply immediately, never use generic power supplies and CERTAINLY never try to overclock with them, you're lucky it hasn't damaged your other hardware. Seventeam reviews are pretty good, they are pretty honest at least, their PSUs can usually supply the amount of watts they claim to be able to, they are much much better than the usual trite you get from cheap power supplies. Still, it's my first suspect given the problems I'm having.
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Jul 4, 2015 18:30
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Not a hardware question really but... I use chrome and noticed the past few weeks I keep seeing the little yellow triangle with exclamation mark for my profile I'll click the dialog, sign back in, use my auth code sent to my phone, and it fixes everything 5-10 minutes later the the triangle is back, and it's asking for authorization again. Read a few people having the same problem, and completely signing out of the account and back in usually fixes it, but not for me! It seems like everything works fine, I can see my browser history on my phone etc, so its obviously keeping the account synced.. thoughts?
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Jul 5, 2015 02:11
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Sappo569 posted:Not a hardware question really but... I have the exact same issue. No idea how to fix it, but you aren't alone!
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Jul 5, 2015 02:30
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Does google have an option on their dashboard to sign you out of all accounts? Worth a shot.
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Jul 5, 2015 05:46
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I thought there was a good guide on case airflow here, but I can't find it, anyone know what I'm talking about?
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Jul 6, 2015 01:42
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It's in the overclocking thread if you mean that. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3465021#post400343552
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Jul 6, 2015 02:40
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One of the WD 1TB Blue HDDs in my DrivePool failed the WD Lifeguard Extended Test due to too many bad sectors. It's still in warranty, so I generated an RMA on WD's site and am just waiting for the pre-mailer label. Prior to shipping the hosed HDD, should I zero it out? I ordered a new 5TB to add to my DrivePool to see if I can hopefully remove the affected 1TB from the pool while also salvaging the files from it. Fingers crossed! [edit] Another question. Using Macrium Reflect, can I make an image of the hard drive even if it has bad sectors? teagone fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jul 7, 2015 |
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Jul 6, 2015 03:06
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I'm moving to a new place soon and would really rather get a new modem instead of paying an extra monthly fee to rent a terrible one from Comcast - what's a decent modem in the 50 dollarish range? Additionally, should I get a router as well even though it's just a small apartment and it'd end up sitting next to the modem? The home network thread is too focused on big picture/project stuff for me to suss out an answer for this.
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Jul 9, 2015 08:22
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Heavy Lobster posted:I'm moving to a new place soon and would really rather get a new modem instead of paying an extra monthly fee to rent a terrible one from Comcast - what's a decent modem in the 50 dollarish range? Additionally, should I get a router as well even though it's just a small apartment and it'd end up sitting next to the modem? The home network thread is too focused on big picture/project stuff for me to suss out an answer for this. Motorola/Arris SB6121, 6141, 6183 are the ones to get. Look at your service level to see what to buy: http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/ For example if you want a really high bandwidth service (300 megabits) you'll need the 6183 to make it happen. For their 4/24 package which is what I had when I used to use comcast the Sb6121 was fantastic.
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Jul 9, 2015 08:35
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As usual, I will note that Comcast and other ISPs are beginning their rollouts of DOCSIS 3.1 service, and the modems you buy now will be DOCSIS 3.0. There will be a transitional period while older modems still work, but if you're on a higher speed tier you will be among the first users switched to DOCSIS 3.1. Also I've found ISPs will try to blame your modem for issues if you own it, but getting better support and less pushback probably isn't worth the monthly fee.
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Jul 9, 2015 23:12
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Alereon posted:As usual, I will note that Comcast and other ISPs are beginning their rollouts of DOCSIS 3.1 service, and the modems you buy now will be DOCSIS 3.0. There will be a transitional period while older modems still work, but if you're on a higher speed tier you will be among the first users switched to DOCSIS 3.1. Also I've found ISPs will try to blame your modem for issues if you own it, but getting better support and less pushback probably isn't worth the monthly fee. The monthly fee is $10 for me. They also charge me another $5 for like service support or some poo poo so that they won't charge me if I call them. Fuckin' Comcast. I really should buy my own modem.
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Jul 9, 2015 23:21
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I finally broke down and bought a 5341J for Comcast. The loaner SMC modem works fine at this low business tier but I'm tired of paying them for the privilege and it doesn't support ipv6 at all.
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Jul 9, 2015 23:38
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If I'm playing a game on my computer and listen to music, or be on a voip server, or basically ever be in a situational where I have multiple sources of audio output, I get extreme sound corruption. It starts slow, but over a few hours or days it's unbearable until I restart. I have onboard realtek hd for my "sound card" with up to date drivers. Is this a common problem? Can it be fixed?
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Jul 10, 2015 03:28
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Deep Winter posted:If I'm playing a game on my computer and listen to music, or be on a voip server, or basically ever be in a situational where I have multiple sources of audio output, I get extreme sound corruption. It starts slow, but over a few hours or days it's unbearable until I restart. I have onboard realtek hd for my "sound card" with up to date drivers. Is this a common problem? Can it be fixed?
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Jul 10, 2015 03:37
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Alereon posted:Just to confirm, you have the latest drivers from the Realtek website, not just your motherboard manufacturer? ....now that I double check I'm not confident anymore, it was last updated recently and it's like 100 mb. I'll try that.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:16
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Need to connect an SSD via USB to a laptop. What’s a decent enclosure connector thingy? Might need one for a mechanical HDD as well.
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Jul 10, 2015 08:15
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ufarn posted:Need to connect an SSD via USB to a laptop. What’s a decent enclosure connector thingy? Might need one for a mechanical HDD as well. If you are only using 2.5" laptop drives (SSDs are this size) then you can use something like this that's powered by the USB connector: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ If you're connecting 3.5" hard drives you will need more power which requires a unit with an AC adapter. This one can work with or without the power adapter depending on what kind of drive you're working with: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005B3VO24/ I own the second one and it's worked well for me. edit: and if you want an enclosure that covers the drive you can pick pretty much any one on amazon with good reviews. You'll probably have to buy a 3.5" one if you're working with both kinds of drives. You could also get a SATA dock that you can pop disks into and eject them from like this, but it's bigger than the previous kinds I linked: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1O43CS/ Rexxed fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 08:27
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Hey, I'm looking for a reliable, large-capacity storage system for videos at work. Budget is about $3000. Should connect via USB or firewire. I looked online and found hard drive and RAID arrays. What should I look for? Any specific models you recommend?
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Jul 11, 2015 12:12
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Dominoes posted:Hey, I'm looking for a reliable, large-capacity storage system for videos at work. Budget is about $3000. Should connect via USB or firewire. I looked online and found hard drive and RAID arrays. What should I look for? Any specific models you recommend?
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Jul 11, 2015 17:37
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Alereon posted:How big, what are your performance requirements, is this for Mac or PC, and are you sure you only need local access? The market has basically moved on to Network Attached Storage and Anandtech has some good reviews of units, If you really only want local access then you're probably looking at a Thunderbolt controller and array, especially if you need high performance. You certainly do need RAID5/6 in whatever you get to protect from drive failures (RAID6 can survive the failure of two drives), and I'd also recommend you plan for a separated backup solution as well, so you don't lose the entire contents of your array from a CryptoLocker infection for example. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jul 11, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 18:02
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Dominoes posted:Thanks dude; really appreciate it. Windows, Mostly 7. I think the server's on XP or something. No thunderbolt ports; USB and firewire only. Might be able to use network. RAID for failure prevention is highly desirable based on your post. Not sure on size capacity, but probably 15+ TB. I think you'll want to look at the Synology DS1515+ for about $800. It has five drive bays supporting up to 8TB drives, for a total of up to 40GB max. It supports both RAID5 and 6 for single and double drive failure protection, in which case you lose one or two drive's worth of capacity, espectively. It features an Intel 2.4Ghz quad-core storage processor with 2GB of RAM, upgradeable to 6GB. I'd consider pairing this with five Western Digital Red 6TB drives for $250 each, giving you 18TB of usable storage with the ability to withstand two drive failures without data loss. Most people say you only need single-drive redundancy for a five-drive array, which would give you 24TB of storage. If your needs grow in the future, you can buy "expansion boxes" with additional bays. Alternatively, there's the DS1815+ for around $1000 that supports 8 drives. You don't have to fill all the bays when you buy it, but you DO need to use RAID6 for double-failure protection with 7+ drives definitely. There's your $3000 budget for 36TB usable. Here is the Anandtech review of the Synology DS1815+ 8-bay model, you can see how ridiculously capable it is. It's probably a bit more than you were looking for, but honestly I don't know if you really want to stake your company's data on less. I'll note that I haven't personally used these boxes, but Synology is generally very well regarded.
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Jul 11, 2015 19:25
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That sounds perfect. Not sure how fast it needs to be, but it needs to access video-ish files without stuttering or anything weird.
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Jul 11, 2015 20:43
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"accessing" video files? Meaning to play them? Or to edit them?
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Jul 11, 2015 22:45
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Play.
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Jul 11, 2015 22:50
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