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Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
You're right, that diagram clearly shows separate high/low bulbs. Autozone's website also suggests separate bulbs.

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Flo Cytometer
Apr 20, 2015

by Ralp
So, the Ford (2000 Expedition) has started randomly started to act sluggish when shifting, and the ABS light randomly turns on. I'm thinking the speed sensor on the rear diff needs to be isolated before bothering anything else since its only $8 and one bolt.. or am I missing something? Brakes still seem to engage just fine, and the ABS light is sporadic, so I'm thinking bad sensor somewhere down the line, or wires. Haven't done a panic stop to see if the ABS pumps, though.

LargeHadron posted:

he high *and* low beams went out on the left side.

I'd use a test light probe on both the lamp sockets first, and then socket+ground to see if you get different results. I'd suggest KiaTechInfo to check the schematics, but they have put a paywall in front of it.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
Are you sure the wheel speed sensor is on the diff? I've only seen them on the hub before (on a Jeep and 2 Ford cars).

Flo Cytometer
Apr 20, 2015

by Ralp

Godholio posted:

Are you sure the wheel speed sensor is on the diff? I've only seen them on the hub before (on a Jeep and 2 Ford cars).

Its pretty common on this beast (and the F-150, at least):

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Flo Cytometer posted:

Its pretty common on this beast (and the F-150, at least):


Explorer, probably ranger and mustang, too.

I use that hole as a fill plug on my jeep with an 8.8" rear end, and I had a lot of fun cutting those tabs off.

Flo Cytometer
Apr 20, 2015

by Ralp

Krakkles posted:

I use that hole as a fill plug on my jeep with an 8.8" rear end, and I had a lot of fun cutting those tabs off.

I survived the 5.4 plug and coils.. this can't be THAT bad. Right? :ohdear:

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Flo Cytometer posted:

I survived the 5.4 plug and coils.. this can't be THAT bad. Right? :ohdear:
It's not bad. I think two bolts, maybe 10mm or something like that. I still have mine, I think, if you want it. I'd be happy to ship it to you free, assuming I can do it for a couple bucks or whatever. (Assuming you don't need it before the weekend - Friday is the earliest I could ship it.)

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I need to replace the battery on my car key, and the screw is tiny and beyond stripped. What's the best way to get it out? Also, what's the best way to figure out the correct size replacement screw? I'm guessing the local hardware store won't have the right size, but maybe I'm wrong. It's for a 2003 Lexus GS430.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

Flo Cytometer posted:

Its pretty common on this beast (and the F-150, at least):



Huh. Yeah, never seen that before. Interesting. That provides input for the ABS? Traction control?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Godholio posted:

Huh. Yeah, never seen that before. Interesting. That provides input for the ABS? Traction control?

Yeah, it's not that uncommon. Google "three channel abs", the idea is to keep from locking the whole axle up and making the car spin.

My Ranger only had rear ABS and probably only had a single sender for the rear axle too. With just a single pump it's not like it could only release the pressure on one rear wheel.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

MomJeans420 posted:

I need to replace the battery on my car key, and the screw is tiny and beyond stripped. What's the best way to get it out? Also, what's the best way to figure out the correct size replacement screw? I'm guessing the local hardware store won't have the right size, but maybe I'm wrong. It's for a 2003 Lexus GS430.

The hardware store almost certainly will, if they carry metric hardware. Most terminals have a nut and bolt setup, if the nut is free-spinning you could just loosen that while holding the remains of the bolt head with a vise grip; if it's a recessed hex or square nut that you can't get at, or if it threads directly into the terminal metal, you'll need to either try and loosen it with vice grips, use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot for a screwdriver, or if you have an angle grinder/dremel just use that to grind the head off.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Enourmo posted:

The hardware store almost certainly will, if they carry metric hardware. Most terminals have a nut and bolt setup, if the nut is free-spinning you could just loosen that while holding the remains of the bolt head with a vise grip; if it's a recessed hex or square nut that you can't get at, or if it threads directly into the terminal metal, you'll need to either try and loosen it with vice grips, use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot for a screwdriver, or if you have an angle grinder/dremel just use that to grind the head off.
Sounds like you're a thinking car battery.

OP, I've had good luck with putting significant pressure on a screwdriver and turning slowly. If you want to be able to put more (enough) pressure, place the remote on a somewhat soft surface, like a towel on a table.

As for where to get a replacement - I'd think auto part stores would stock them, or maybe Amazon?

HaB
Jan 5, 2001

What are the odds?
Not sure where else to post this question, so I will try here:

I have a 67 Impala SS, with a 327 v8 in it. About 13 mpg, before you ask. ;)

At any rate - it drives well, save for the problem I am about to outline. Guy who had it before me did an engine rebuild and I just hit the 2000 mile mark post rebuild, had the case flushed, oil changed, valves adjusted, etc.

But since I am trying to learn, I told the shop I would tackle this problem myself:

The engine gets super rough while idling in R or D, and eventually stalls. If you give it gas, it hesitates right at first, but then is fine. Idle speed in Park/Neutral is right at 1100. In gear it drops to 850 or so, then just keeps dropping and sputters out if you don't give it gas. This is irrelevant of engine temperature, it seems, but it doesn't stall quite as fast if it's warmed up.

After a bunch of poking through classic car forums and message boards and reading threads from people with similar problems, I had a list of things to try, and here's what I went through this past weekend:

- checked for vacuum leaks. (if there is one, I drat sure can't find it, and the hoses literally look brand new. I used the "spray short bursts of starter fluid on hoses while engine is running to see if the RPMs change" technique. Nothing.)
- replaced Fuel filter. I thought at first the problem had improved, but after driving around yesterday evening, I think that was wishful thinking.
- replace air filter. I was actually doing this anyway, because the one in there was dirty. I didn't do it in direct response to this problem.

So at dinner Saturday night, I was discussing the problem with a buddy and a guy behind us overheard and instantly said "It's the coil." He went on to say he had a 54 Chevy which had the exact same problem and that's what fixed his. So after poring over my service manual for a bit, I see two possible things meant by "coil" - a choke coil, and an ignition coil. Is either of those what he meant?

It has an automatic choke, and the coil is right there mounted to the carb. It looks like a coil you might find in a wall thermostat for your home HVAC, and I assume it serves a similar purpose here. The part is about $6 and would be an easy swap. The ignition coil looks like an easy swap too, but the one that is on there looks fairly new and is definitely NOT oem.

Did he mean something else entirely?

TIA

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

Krakkles posted:

Sounds like you're a thinking car battery.

OP, I've had good luck with putting significant pressure on a screwdriver and turning slowly. If you want to be able to put more (enough) pressure, place the remote on a somewhat soft surface, like a towel on a table.

As for where to get a replacement - I'd think auto part stores would stock them, or maybe Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Buttons-Remote-Shell-Lexus-Inside/dp/B005PSPD22

If that's the replacement casing, I'd be tempted just to drill out the busted screw with a tiny drill bit.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

HaB posted:

Not sure where else to post this question, so I will try here:

I have a 67 Impala SS, with a 327 v8 in it. About 13 mpg, before you ask. ;)

At any rate - it drives well, save for the problem I am about to outline. Guy who had it before me did an engine rebuild and I just hit the 2000 mile mark post rebuild, had the case flushed, oil changed, valves adjusted, etc.

But since I am trying to learn, I told the shop I would tackle this problem myself:

The engine gets super rough while idling in R or D, and eventually stalls. If you give it gas, it hesitates right at first, but then is fine. Idle speed in Park/Neutral is right at 1100. In gear it drops to 850 or so, then just keeps dropping and sputters out if you don't give it gas. This is irrelevant of engine temperature, it seems, but it doesn't stall quite as fast if it's warmed up.

After a bunch of poking through classic car forums and message boards and reading threads from people with similar problems, I had a list of things to try, and here's what I went through this past weekend:

- checked for vacuum leaks. (if there is one, I drat sure can't find it, and the hoses literally look brand new. I used the "spray short bursts of starter fluid on hoses while engine is running to see if the RPMs change" technique. Nothing.)
- replaced Fuel filter. I thought at first the problem had improved, but after driving around yesterday evening, I think that was wishful thinking.
- replace air filter. I was actually doing this anyway, because the one in there was dirty. I didn't do it in direct response to this problem.

So at dinner Saturday night, I was discussing the problem with a buddy and a guy behind us overheard and instantly said "It's the coil." He went on to say he had a 54 Chevy which had the exact same problem and that's what fixed his. So after poring over my service manual for a bit, I see two possible things meant by "coil" - a choke coil, and an ignition coil. Is either of those what he meant?

It has an automatic choke, and the coil is right there mounted to the carb. It looks like a coil you might find in a wall thermostat for your home HVAC, and I assume it serves a similar purpose here. The part is about $6 and would be an easy swap. The ignition coil looks like an easy swap too, but the one that is on there looks fairly new and is definitely NOT oem.

Did he mean something else entirely?

TIA

He's talking about the ignition coil. It's probably a couple hundred to replace but a shop can test it I would expect. I don't know anything about classic cars or v8's etc but I'm guessing you have some kind of aftermarket ignition system.

Have you checked your plugs? This definitely sounds like bogging due to unmetered air though. Something to do with the carb/jets?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
I'm doing the brake fluid on my 2011 Golf this week.

I have the motive pressure bleeder from when I had my e30 so I'm planning on using that thing. This will be my first time bleeding brakes without using the Ate blue fluid so how do I know when the new fluid has pushed all the old fluid out? Can I use the pressure to push all the old fluid out first, then when the lines are clear push the new fluid in (that way I know the old stuff is out and only the new stuff is in the lines)?

shabbat goy
Oct 4, 2008



2004 Golf TDI. This morning when I turned my AC on after having it off for a while, some smoke/vapor came out of my vents so I turned it off and opened the windows for a while. Turned it back on when I got to work to test and it didn't happen again, and it blew cold air just fine. I can't say whether it smelled or not since the windows were open to clear it out, but when it was on later there was no smell and no smoke. I think it's either high humidity or a bad heater core. What's the best way to check my heater core (without taking the dash off) so I can figure out whether or not I should bring it in?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

VelociBacon posted:

He's talking about the ignition coil. It's probably a couple hundred to replace but a shop can test it I would expect. I don't know anything about classic cars or v8's etc but I'm guessing you have some kind of aftermarket ignition system.

Have you checked your plugs? This definitely sounds like bogging due to unmetered air though. Something to do with the carb/jets?

That sounded more like a carb issue than a spark issue based on the description to me as well.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

That sounded more like a carb issue than a spark issue based on the description to me as well.

That was my thought as I read it, too.

Cthulhuite
Mar 22, 2007

Shwmae!
I don't think I bed my new rotors in properly :ohdear:

'94 Lexus SC400, changed the front and rear rotors yesterday, and rear pads. Front pads are about 2 months old. I did the usual steady braking on the way home, spent half of the 60~km journey do slow, prolonged braking at regular intervals, then the last half doing some firmer braking at higher speeds. Towards the end of my journey, the car starting pulling harder to the left and right when braking, and juddering like hell if I brake at higher speeds. Low speeds are fine.

What's the best way to re-bed the rotors? Should I just give it more time?

Flo Cytometer
Apr 20, 2015

by Ralp

Krakkles posted:

It's not bad. I think two bolts, maybe 10mm or something like that. I still have mine, I think, if you want it. I'd be happy to ship it to you free, assuming I can do it for a couple bucks or whatever. (Assuming you don't need it before the weekend - Friday is the earliest I could ship it.)

No worries if you have to go digging for it, but I appreciate the offer. There is just a 3/4" bolt holding that sucker on from what I can just use by finger size estimation. If you do happen to just find it, I'd be happy to pay for shipping and such. :)

MomJeans420 posted:

I need to replace the battery on my car key, and the screw is tiny and beyond stripped. What's the best way to get it out? Also, what's the best way to figure out the correct size replacement screw? I'm guessing the local hardware store won't have the right size, but maybe I'm wrong. It's for a 2003 Lexus GS430.

Mom'n'Pop TrueValue/ACE shops- this is their bread and butter. You'll pay $0.64 instead of $0.03- but they'll find you a perfect fit. On a not-my-fault stripped keyfob, I ended up using a little superglue and a dollar store screwdriver to extract a completely shot philips head, and replaced that screw with a similar-size-slightly-wider-but-won't-hit-pcb wood screw. :effort:

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

HaB posted:

Not sure where else to post this question, so I will try here:

I have a 67 Impala SS, with a 327 v8 in it. About 13 mpg, before you ask. ;)

At any rate - it drives well, save for the problem I am about to outline. Guy who had it before me did an engine rebuild and I just hit the 2000 mile mark post rebuild, had the case flushed, oil changed, valves adjusted, etc.

But since I am trying to learn, I told the shop I would tackle this problem myself:

The engine gets super rough while idling in R or D, and eventually stalls. If you give it gas, it hesitates right at first, but then is fine. Idle speed in Park/Neutral is right at 1100. In gear it drops to 850 or so, then just keeps dropping and sputters out if you don't give it gas. This is irrelevant of engine temperature, it seems, but it doesn't stall quite as fast if it's warmed up.

After a bunch of poking through classic car forums and message boards and reading threads from people with similar problems, I had a list of things to try, and here's what I went through this past weekend:

- checked for vacuum leaks. (if there is one, I drat sure can't find it, and the hoses literally look brand new. I used the "spray short bursts of starter fluid on hoses while engine is running to see if the RPMs change" technique. Nothing.)
- replaced Fuel filter. I thought at first the problem had improved, but after driving around yesterday evening, I think that was wishful thinking.
- replace air filter. I was actually doing this anyway, because the one in there was dirty. I didn't do it in direct response to this problem.

So at dinner Saturday night, I was discussing the problem with a buddy and a guy behind us overheard and instantly said "It's the coil." He went on to say he had a 54 Chevy which had the exact same problem and that's what fixed his. So after poring over my service manual for a bit, I see two possible things meant by "coil" - a choke coil, and an ignition coil. Is either of those what he meant?

It has an automatic choke, and the coil is right there mounted to the carb. It looks like a coil you might find in a wall thermostat for your home HVAC, and I assume it serves a similar purpose here. The part is about $6 and would be an easy swap. The ignition coil looks like an easy swap too, but the one that is on there looks fairly new and is definitely NOT oem.

Did he mean something else entirely?

TIA

That sounds like you need to adjust the idle fuel mixture more than an ignition (coil) problem. Has it always done that since the engine rebuild or was it sudden? Im going to assume you still have the quadrajet and the idle mixture screws are in the bottom front of the carburetor, there are two of them, one for each side of the engine. Best way to do it is with a vacuum gauge if you have access to one. First make sure that they are both turned out about the same amount of turns and usually two turns out is a good starting point. With the engine running turn these two screws in or out until the idle smooths out and if you have a vacuum gauge look for the maximum amount of vacuum you can get, 18hg is the usual but it will be lower if the engine has an aftermarket cam with some overlap but it should be at least 12hg or so. Make sure to move the screws about the same amount to each one until the idle smooths out and the vacuum is as high as you can get it. At that point if the idle is too high turn down the idle speed screw and then adjust the mixture screws again until the idle is smooth again.

Turning the screws in makes the mixture leaner and out makes it richer.

Before messing with the carb make sure the ignition timing is correct for the engine, with the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor and plugged on the carburetor side.

Friar Zucchini
Aug 6, 2010

So lately I've been wondering how cars with a hood-mounted intake, or otherwise exposed for additional fastitude, deal with driving in the rain and keeping the water out of the engine to avoid hydrolock. Do they just... not? Cause judging by this video, a little bit of water isn't as catastrophic as I thought it would be and just goes out the exhaust.. Now of course I don't expect this amount of water in a land vehicle, but still.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXJyYFpTplg

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Friar Zucchini posted:

So lately I've been wondering how cars with a hood-mounted intake, or otherwise exposed for additional fastitude, deal with driving in the rain and keeping the water out of the engine to avoid hydrolock. Do they just... not? Cause judging by this video, a little bit of water isn't as catastrophic as I thought it would be and just goes out the exhaust.. Now of course I don't expect this amount of water in a land vehicle, but still.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXJyYFpTplg

I had a subaru STI variant with what you're describing. The cars that do this put an intercooler or something right there, that's the purpose of having the scoop. You only get hydrolock when the car's intake gets a shot of water usually through a submerged or suddenly drenched cheap cone filter.

e: I'm no expert but I bet that MARINE motor uses water to cool it or something and it gets put through the exhaust to cool the headers. There's no way that water is going into the combustion chamber.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Flo Cytometer posted:

No worries if you have to go digging for it, but I appreciate the offer. There is just a 3/4" bolt holding that sucker on from what I can just use by finger size estimation. If you do happen to just find it
Oh, I'm pretty sure I know exactly where it is - I'm just not home until Friday. PM me your address and I'll send it over :)

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
2001 suburban 1500 5.3L 2wd

My driver's side power seats stopped working. The lumbar supports still inflate and stuff. That switch is right next to the seat slider switches. I tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal in case it was a circuit breaker that was tripped (is that how you reset them?). Not sure what else to do/try.

HaB
Jan 5, 2001

What are the odds?

Fart Pipe posted:

That sounds like you need to adjust the idle fuel mixture more than an ignition (coil) problem. Has it always done that since the engine rebuild or was it sudden? Im going to assume you still have the quadrajet and the idle mixture screws are in the bottom front of the carburetor, there are two of them, one for each side of the engine. Best way to do it is with a vacuum gauge if you have access to one. First make sure that they are both turned out about the same amount of turns and usually two turns out is a good starting point. With the engine running turn these two screws in or out until the idle smooths out and if you have a vacuum gauge look for the maximum amount of vacuum you can get, 18hg is the usual but it will be lower if the engine has an aftermarket cam with some overlap but it should be at least 12hg or so. Make sure to move the screws about the same amount to each one until the idle smooths out and the vacuum is as high as you can get it. At that point if the idle is too high turn down the idle speed screw and then adjust the mixture screws again until the idle is smooth again.

Turning the screws in makes the mixture leaner and out makes it richer.

Before messing with the carb make sure the ignition timing is correct for the engine, with the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor and plugged on the carburetor side.

I didn't own the car until after the rebuild, but it's done it since I owned it. It used to only do it when the engine was cold, but was fine after it warmed up.

Every other site I have been doing research on says to make sure all the electrical is straight before messing with the fuel stuff. So I will at least check the ignition coil with a multimeter. It seems a faulty coil can act a lot like fuel problems.

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?

PuTTY riot posted:

2001 suburban 1500 5.3L 2wd

My driver's side power seats stopped working. The lumbar supports still inflate and stuff. That switch is right next to the seat slider switches. I tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal in case it was a circuit breaker that was tripped (is that how you reset them?). Not sure what else to do/try.

I had this problem with my 2006 Silverado. It wound up being a shoddy connection in the harness under the drivers seat. GM routed a lot of amperage through the connector and after a while the connection went to poo poo. I just cut the offending black wire off both sides and spliced it together. Try wiggling it and seeing if that restores function, or look for obvious signs of burn.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

HaB posted:

I didn't own the car until after the rebuild, but it's done it since I owned it. It used to only do it when the engine was cold, but was fine after it warmed up.

Every other site I have been doing research on says to make sure all the electrical is straight before messing with the fuel stuff. So I will at least check the ignition coil with a multimeter. It seems a faulty coil can act a lot like fuel problems.

The thing is, ignition problems would be bad at any engine speed.

If this has been getting worse I'm inclined to say dirt is the root cause, and location being the question. I would pop the carb off and give it an inspection, taking off one fuel bowl and checking for dirt. If that was clean, I'd put it back together and move on since that's probably not the issue.

My thinking here is the engine when at high vacuum is only pulling through the idle circuits, something jammed in there would be starving you, which leads to stalling at cold temperature when you need more gas, and as those passages filled with more you eventually got so little gas you can't run hot. When you goose it you're drawing from the main circuits, the power valve opens, and you get more fuel through the jets and run better.

I don't know if adjusting the idle air mix screws would help or not for the hypothesis above, restricted flow at a low setting should still be restricted, unless the obstruction is right at the screws.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
A second reason I lean towards dirt in the fuel is the age of the car, and not knowing if the fuel tank was cleaned during the engine restoration. If my hypothesis earlier is correct, get a clear filter so you can visually inspect the gas for particles.

HaB
Jan 5, 2001

What are the odds?

StormDrain posted:

The thing is, ignition problems would be bad at any engine speed.

If this has been getting worse I'm inclined to say dirt is the root cause, and location being the question. I would pop the carb off and give it an inspection, taking off one fuel bowl and checking for dirt. If that was clean, I'd put it back together and move on since that's probably not the issue.

My thinking here is the engine when at high vacuum is only pulling through the idle circuits, something jammed in there would be starving you, which leads to stalling at cold temperature when you need more gas, and as those passages filled with more you eventually got so little gas you can't run hot. When you goose it you're drawing from the main circuits, the power valve opens, and you get more fuel through the jets and run better.

I don't know if adjusting the idle air mix screws would help or not for the hypothesis above, restricted flow at a low setting should still be restricted, unless the obstruction is right at the screws.

A second reason I lean towards dirt in the fuel is the age of the car, and not knowing if the fuel tank was cleaned during the engine restoration. If my hypothesis earlier is correct, get a clear filter so you can visually inspect the gas for particles.

The people describing similar problems, including the dude I ran into this weekend all said it was fine once you gave it gas, even when it was the coil. Of the other 5 or so posts I saw, 2 were the coil, 2 were vacuum problems, and 1 was never updated with the outcome.

The tank looks brand spanking new to me, as do all the lines. I don't have a complete list of everything the guy before me did, but as far as what looks new: engine rebuild, tank, brakes/lines, etc. Was told it was basically everything save body/interior.

Not sure a clear filter is an option. The filter isn't inline - it's on the front of the carb itself. But I can pull the carb this weekend and take a look at it.

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002

rdb posted:

I had this problem with my 2006 Silverado. It wound up being a shoddy connection in the harness under the drivers seat. GM routed a lot of amperage through the connector and after a while the connection went to poo poo. I just cut the offending black wire off both sides and spliced it together. Try wiggling it and seeing if that restores function, or look for obvious signs of burn.

Thanks, I'll give this a look in the morning when it cools off.


Also, I just drove to work, and my stock ac delco radio wouldn't turn on. It's getting juice-- if i press the hour or minute button the clock turns on for about 3 seconds. I'd assume this is theftlock but it doesn't say "LOC" or whatever. But i did just disconnect the negative battery terminal and that was the first time I cranked it. Maybe the add-a-fuse is loose and the clock itself is on a separate circuit that always has juice? It's also weird because this wasn't an issue when I replaced the battery terminal bolts when I installed my ham radio a few months ago.

scuz
Aug 29, 2003

You can't be angry ALL the time!




Fun Shoe
2000 Chevy S10
V6 4.3L extended cab
RWD

The reason I mentioned extended cab is because this thing has a two-piece driveshaft and the rear-most universal joint is shot. I know how to replace it once I have the drive shaft off, but I can't figure it for the life of me. I took the 4 bolts out from the metal straps that appear to hold the u-joint in, but I can't get the drive shaft to shift outta there. I feel like a big dumbo. I'll update this with a picture later if need be.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

scuz posted:

2000 Chevy S10
V6 4.3L extended cab
RWD

The reason I mentioned extended cab is because this thing has a two-piece driveshaft and the rear-most universal joint is shot. I know how to replace it once I have the drive shaft off, but I can't figure it for the life of me. I took the 4 bolts out from the metal straps that appear to hold the u-joint in, but I can't get the drive shaft to shift outta there. I feel like a big dumbo. I'll update this with a picture later if need be.

Once the straps are off you may need to use a pry bar or something to compress the shaft and allow it to come loose. Pry it inwards away from the yoke.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

HaB posted:

The people describing similar problems, including the dude I ran into this weekend all said it was fine once you gave it gas, even when it was the coil. Of the other 5 or so posts I saw, 2 were the coil, 2 were vacuum problems, and 1 was never updated with the outcome.

The tank looks brand spanking new to me, as do all the lines. I don't have a complete list of everything the guy before me did, but as far as what looks new: engine rebuild, tank, brakes/lines, etc. Was told it was basically everything save body/interior.

Not sure a clear filter is an option. The filter isn't inline - it's on the front of the carb itself. But I can pull the carb this weekend and take a look at it.

Well if that's all true I am probably wrong. You could put another filter ahead of the carb whoever a short rubber section is located, probably after the hardline from the frame rail before the fuel pump assuming a mechanical fuel pump on the motor.

I don't understand why the coil would be more effective at speed than slow, I'd be interested to learn too.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Krakkles posted:

As for where to get a replacement - I'd think auto part stores would stock them, or maybe Amazon?

It's most likely a watch battery of some kind, like a CR2032 or 2045, most drug stores have them. Once you get the battery out it should have the type of battery marked on one side.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

HotCanadianChick posted:

It's most likely a watch battery of some kind, like a CR2032 or 2045, most drug stores have them. Once you get the battery out it should have the type of battery marked on one side.

I learned this a couple weeks ago. As far as watch batteries go, be sure to Google around with the battery size number. There are several different standards. For example, size LR44 = L1154 = AG13 = 157.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

kid sinister posted:

I learned this a couple weeks ago. As far as watch batteries go, be sure to Google around with the battery size number. There are several different standards. For example, size LR44 = L1154 = AG13 = 157.

The best thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from!

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009

spog posted:

http://www.amazon.com/Buttons-Remote-Shell-Lexus-Inside/dp/B005PSPD22

If that's the replacement casing, I'd be tempted just to drill out the busted screw with a tiny drill bit.

Careful if you end up having to drill it. I had to do something similar a few months ago (not with a key fob though). I didn't count on the teeny screw heating up and melting the poo poo out of the plastic. :doh: It doesn't take much drilling to get the screw stub hot enough to liquify all the plastic surrounding it.

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Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

Fart Pipe posted:

That sounds like you need to adjust the idle fuel mixture more than an ignition (coil) problem. Has it always done that since the engine rebuild or was it sudden? Im going to assume you still have the quadrajet and the idle mixture screws are in the bottom front of the carburetor, there are two of them, one for each side of the engine. Best way to do it is with a vacuum gauge if you have access to one. First make sure that they are both turned out about the same amount of turns and usually two turns out is a good starting point. With the engine running turn these two screws in or out until the idle smooths out and if you have a vacuum gauge look for the maximum amount of vacuum you can get, 18hg is the usual but it will be lower if the engine has an aftermarket cam with some overlap but it should be at least 12hg or so. Make sure to move the screws about the same amount to each one until the idle smooths out and the vacuum is as high as you can get it. At that point if the idle is too high turn down the idle speed screw and then adjust the mixture screws again until the idle is smooth again.

Turning the screws in makes the mixture leaner and out makes it richer.

Before messing with the carb make sure the ignition timing is correct for the engine, with the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor and plugged on the carburetor side.

This is where I'd start. If you don't have one, a Mityvac is great for this. I'd start with the screws 1 full turn out, then go in increments of 1/4 turn until you see the peak vacuum, that's where you want them. Also make sure your vacuum advance is the proper canister. You should be able to find the right part number on a forum somewhere (depends on which 327 you've got, etc). Also check your timing.

The factory service manuals are available on ebay, and if it's available you absolutely want the factory Assembly Instruction Manual. I've got one for my '66 Corvette and it's a WEALTH of information. Torque specs, part numbers, sealants, amazing diagrams...it's loving great. No actual step-by-step instructions, but it's still the most useful repair book I've ever used.

Edit: Ok, after reading the rest of the posts, I'm curious what carb you've got. A quick stumble when you try to gas it could point to a few things. My 327 has a Holley 4160 so that's what I'm sort of familiar with (4150 would be basically the same for our purposes, but you shouldn't have one of those). Float levels, accelerator pump setting, accelerator pump nozzle, and the plastic cam on the side could all be loving this up. Start with float levels. Holley actually has a really good series of videos on youtube about troubleshooting and tweaking 4bbl carbs.

Overall, I'd say start with the easy stuff. You checked for vacuum leaks. Check the timing. Float levels. Accelerator pump setting (easy, it's just a feeler gauge). Double check the idle air/fuel mix.

Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Jul 14, 2015

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