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Uthor posted:Zip ties are trash. Oh god this. All the hammers with fiberglass handles have been decent too.
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Jul 13, 2015 16:39
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Good point. Their e-tape is utter poo poo too.
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Jul 13, 2015 16:41
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I've got a few of the various ryobi green one+ cordless power tools laying around and 2-3 batteries for them. I found out they make a cordless impact gun for the series as well and I'm wondering how terrible of an idea picking one up is. I've got a compressor and air tools for anything that nasty, but something I can pick up and use without waiting on an air tank to fill or without loving with extension cords is highly attractive to me. The 1/2in one seems to be on par strengthwise with most other brands and the general reliability seems up there. Anyone have experience with one or general advice regarding them?
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Jul 13, 2015 16:50
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I thought that he 3/8" extending ratchet that I got from HF was awesome until a week ago when the stud that the sockets lock onto broke off completely  I'll take it back and swap it for another one, but it's not going to be my primary any more. Hopefully the Kobalt I found in my dad's garage will hold up better.
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Jul 13, 2015 16:57
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Wow, the one I have is a free one I found on the ground in a junkyard completely seized, soaked in wd40 for a few weeks to free up, and I've done unkind things to it and haven't broken it that way yet.Elmnt80 posted:I've got a few of the various ryobi green one+ cordless power tools laying around and 2-3 batteries for them. I found out they make a cordless impact gun for the series as well and I'm wondering how terrible of an idea picking one up is. I've got a compressor and air tools for anything that nasty, but something I can pick up and use without waiting on an air tank to fill or without loving with extension cords is highly attractive to me. The 1/2in one seems to be on par strengthwise with most other brands and the general reliability seems up there. Anyone have experience with one or general advice regarding them? I hope you registered your batteries and tools and poo poo within their deadline because otherwise say goodbye to that warranty. Other than that I love one+ stuff.
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Jul 13, 2015 17:06
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Elmnt80 posted:I've got a few of the various ryobi green one+ cordless power tools laying around and 2-3 batteries for them. I found out they make a cordless impact gun for the series as well and I'm wondering how terrible of an idea picking one up is. I've got a compressor and air tools for anything that nasty, but something I can pick up and use without waiting on an air tank to fill or without loving with extension cords is highly attractive to me. The 1/2in one seems to be on par strengthwise with most other brands and the general reliability seems up there. Anyone have experience with one or general advice regarding them? I want the bigger 1+ impact but can't justify it at the moment, the spec seems reasonable though, and in the UK the warranty is worthwhile.
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Jul 13, 2015 17:57
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kastein posted:E: oh yeah, their dial indicator, digital caliper, and verynear mic are alright. Not something I would show up with as a pro or a machinist but did just fine for a ring/pinion setup I did. I'm a machinist and I never several of their dial indicators in my toolbox. They're not that accurate across the range, but if you set them on a gage block they'll repeat to a thou or two. Good enough for most things. And they're practically disposable so I don't mind using them in places they may get destroyed. You won't find better for anywhere near that price. Stay away from cheap electric calipers. They eat batteries and don't tell you when they're low. Below a certain voltage they become very inaccurate. You can get a good used mitutoyo dial caliper for well under $100. Their test indicator is a piece of crap. The action is too rough to be useful.
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Jul 13, 2015 18:00
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Oh and the Torque sticks are good too. Many people have done the "How accurate is this cheap 20 dollar item" and they are shockingly good. Yeah they may need re calibrated... or just toss it and get another for 20 bucks. I know there was a few articles on the internet about them too.
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Jul 13, 2015 18:48
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oxbrain posted:Stay away from cheap electric calipers. They eat batteries and don't tell you when they're low. Below a certain voltage they become very inaccurate. You can get a good used mitutoyo dial caliper for well under $100. Yeah that's my only annoyance with the HF digital calipers, you absolutely have to remove the batteries after usage or else they'll turn back on and drain the battery before your next use.
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Jul 13, 2015 19:46
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HF flare wrenches are utter trash too
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Jul 13, 2015 20:02
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah that's my only annoyance with the HF digital calipers, you absolutely have to remove the batteries after usage or else they'll turn back on and drain the battery before your next use. Most of the cheap calipers don't have a low power mode, so turning them off is just turning off the lcd. And they use 4-5x more power to begin with.
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Jul 13, 2015 20:17
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BraveUlysses posted:HF flare wrenches are utter trash too
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Jul 13, 2015 20:26
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Any thing bad/good to say about Ingersoll Rand electric tools/impacts?
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Jul 13, 2015 20:29
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Phone posted:Any thing bad/good to say about Ingersoll Rand electric tools/impacts? Very good, very expensive. If you've got the need, I'd buy them.
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Jul 13, 2015 20:46
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Phone posted:Any thing bad/good to say about Ingersoll Rand electric tools/impacts? I have the Ingersoll Rand 20v W7150 The amount of power it pounds stuff with is unbelievable. Last week I disassembled an engine and five different cylinder heads I was scrapping JUST BECAUSE I COULD. 1100 ft-lb of torque? I haven't tried anything bigger than an axle nut torqued to 300. Important feature - after it breaks something loose - it spins it out quickly. Some impacts don't do that well. Also: the battery seems to last for loving forever. I swap sets of wheels on several cars for winter tire time. This thing made it so much easier for me.
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Jul 13, 2015 21:06
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Electric impact chat - if I don't have a compressor at home would I be better served with a high-end electric impact (like above) if all I would ever really use the compressor for was driving a pneumatic impact wrench? If I ever need to really hammer on something I can drive/tow the vehicle to my in-law's, my FIL has an I/C 220v compressor in his garage.
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Jul 13, 2015 22:06
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Elmnt80 posted:I've got a few of the various ryobi green one+ cordless power tools laying around and 2-3 batteries for them. I found out they make a cordless impact gun for the series as well and I'm wondering how terrible of an idea picking one up is. I've got a compressor and air tools for anything that nasty, but something I can pick up and use without waiting on an air tank to fill or without loving with extension cords is highly attractive to me. The 1/2in one seems to be on par strengthwise with most other brands and the general reliability seems up there. Anyone have experience with one or general advice regarding them? I'm not that impressed with ryobi. For many years I have been using Makita cordless drills and just retired them when better models came along (they all still work, even old nicad 7v ones). But my last makita drill wasn't a hammer drill as I used a mains drill for that - the cordless was for drilling steel on rooftops and roof spaces. I got a ryobi cordless drill that could hammer drill due to jobs where electricians have cut power to the mains, and batteries for that starting dying after a years use. 2 of the cheap chinese cells have ruptured inside. Oh well, you get what you pay for and ryobi is about half the price of makita.
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Jul 13, 2015 22:25
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Geoj posted:Electric impact chat - if I don't have a compressor at home would I be better served with a high-end electric impact (like above) if all I would ever really use the compressor for was driving a pneumatic impact wrench? If you need to hammer on something harder than what that electric impact will do then I hope you've got a 3/4" gun laying around. Modern high end electric impacts are serious competition for their air counterparts. I would honestly be surprised if there was an automotive component that was rusted so bad that an IR or Snap-on gun couldn't take it off.
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Jul 14, 2015 07:26
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I have an air impact and an older Snap On cordless electric. The Snap On is great for most things, but it doesn't have the 'speed' of an air impact. In particular the electric gun doesn't work well to tighten or remove the nuts that go on the end of a shock/strut. The Snap On just spins the whole shaft while the air gun tightens the nut without spinning the strut shaft. Newer guns may not have this problem (mine was made 2011 IIRC).
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Jul 14, 2015 21:43
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PBCrunch posted:I have an air impact and an older Snap On cordless electric. The Snap On is great for most things, but it doesn't have the 'speed' of an air impact. In particular the electric gun doesn't work well to tighten or remove the nuts that go on the end of a shock/strut. The Snap On just spins the whole shaft while the air gun tightens the nut without spinning the strut shaft. Newer guns may not have this problem (mine was made 2011 IIRC). Are you saying there's a time in which you don't have to hold the shaft while threading on the nut? I've only messed with 6 or 8 shocks but they all required holding the shaft with something else after the first few spins.
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Jul 14, 2015 22:23
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Astonishing Wang posted:Are you saying there's a time in which you don't have to hold the shaft while threading on the nut? I've only messed with 6 or 8 shocks but they all required holding the shaft with something else after the first few spins. Big fast impact guns don't care about that. They hit hard and fast enough that the nut spins before the larger shaft has a chance to. It's one of the wonders of the world. You can tighten some nuts without putting a wrench on the bolt sometimes, too.
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Jul 14, 2015 23:43
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PBCrunch posted:I have an air impact and an older Snap On cordless electric. The Snap On is great for most things, but it doesn't have the 'speed' of an air impact. In particular the electric gun doesn't work well to tighten or remove the nuts that go on the end of a shock/strut. Newer guns may not have this problem (mine was made 2011 IIRC). The technology has ramped up A LOT with the improvements in battery technology in the last couple years. Guns from (nearly) 5 years ago really don't compare with "modern" guns.
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Jul 14, 2015 23:52
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Krakkles posted:They don't. My Milwaukee is as fast as most airguns, and worked great for this. Was gonna say, I used a 1/2 inch brushless M18 Milwaukee the other day and I'm going to buy one for myself as soon as I get paid. It took the rusted 36mm axle nut off a junkyard xj without even hesitating (actually it did take a second to break it loose). My old electric plug in DeWalt would have choked. rally fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Jul 14, 2015 |
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Jul 14, 2015 23:56
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rally posted:Was gonna say, I used a 1/2 inch brushless M18 Milwaukee the other day and I'm going to buy one for myself as soon as I get paid. It took the rusted 36mm axle nut off a junkyard xj without even hesitating (actually it did take a second to break it loose). My old electric plug in DeWalt would have choked.
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Jul 15, 2015 00:04
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I've been saving credit card cashback rewards for like a year and a half, waiting for the right thing to buy that I otherwise wouldn't because I am cheap. Not too long ago I got one of those Milwaukee M18 drill + 3/8 impact starter sets at work, and immediately decided that's what I wanted. They're fantastic and I use them all the time despite having a un-toolish job; I can only imagine how much I'd use them at home. Charge lasts forever. A few years ago my mom and I bought my dad a nice Hilti hand drill - he destroys everything he uses, and while the drill has held up incredibly and functions like new despite being thrashed, the batteries suck. The M18 1/2" impact is tempting but I have good compressors at my place and now my girlfriend's place (  ) so I'll probably stick with a HF Earthquake 1/2" since it will be used infrequently.
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Jul 15, 2015 05:18
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Anyone have any experience or thoughts regarding Makita power tools? I was browsing 18v Li-Ion tool sets yesterday, and I saw an Amazon Warehouse deal for these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00168AFA0?vs=1 Combined with 15% off for prime day, it bought the price further down to $410 and at that point I couldn't stop myself from jumping on it. My dad gave me a Makita impact driver awhile back, and it's one of my favorite tools, and I thought it'd be good to stick with the same battery system. I'm sick of dicking around with extension cords whenever I want to use a hole saw or my ancient sawzall, doubly so because usually every nearby outlet has been shut down at the breaker for whatever I'm working on.
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Jul 16, 2015 12:23
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When I first started a trade in 1991, carpenters mainly used makita, electricians mainly used panasonic. I've been mainly using makita battery tools since then. For mains power tools I've got a lot of cheap brands, some which are awesome for the price; but every time I've skimped on battery tools by not buying makita, it's bit me in the arse, so always makita battery from now on.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:35
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OSU_Matthew posted:Anyone have any experience or thoughts regarding Makita power tools? I was browsing 18v Li-Ion tool sets yesterday, and I saw an Amazon Warehouse deal for these: I'm a huge fan on Makita LXT tools. I got the 4-piece set as a wedding present in 2009, and they are still going. I've got 8 tools, and 4 batteries now, but the original drill, driver, sawzall, and 2 3.0AH batteries are 100% functional. They've outlasted several friends' sets of Rigid, Ryobi, or Dewalt stuff. If I was starting over, I might look at Milwaukee, but probably go with Makita again.
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Jul 17, 2015 01:23
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Thanks! That really helps alleviate some of my second thoughts on making such a big impulse buy... I was looking at cordless tool sets for my brother and couldn't resist snatching it up for myself when I noticed the extra 70$ off, on top of the open box discount  ... I'm a terrible brother
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Jul 17, 2015 04:16
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Are the $15 eBay IR thermometers worth half a drat or should I spend some money? Used one (a fluke, mind you) at work the other day to diagnose a bad thermostat and realized how handy they are.
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Jul 20, 2015 01:59
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Tommychu posted:Are the $15 eBay IR thermometers worth half a drat or should I spend some money? Used one (a fluke, mind you) at work the other day to diagnose a bad thermostat and realized how handy they are. I've got one that I got from Lowes for like $10 on clearance. It's a General brand, and works great. I use it on my pans when I'm doing things like pancakes. I also use it when I'm bedding in brakes to check rotor temp. I also have a Flir E4, which is loving amazing. Is there a blown-out diode on your PCB? Just fire it up on a current-limited supply, and boot up the Flir. Hey, look, a diode that's yellow. Must be the culprit.
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Jul 20, 2015 03:20
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Yeah FLIRs are the tits but also way rich for my taste. I've been thinking about picking up a lovely camera and removing the IR filter for stuff like that. and gently caress it, for $15 I don't really need to validate that impulse buy. Got this one:http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00O9W4BDM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A16JJI2I7Z1ZPQ and will post trip report. Threw in a set of cheap calipers for all the times I forget to bring my good ones home from work (well I say good ones but they're Mac DC61232 and not at all better than the Chinesium ones).
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Jul 20, 2015 04:03
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Tommychu posted:Are the $15 eBay IR thermometers worth half a drat or should I spend some money? Used one (a fluke, mind you) at work the other day to diagnose a bad thermostat and realized how handy they are. Yes, but try to get one in your price range with the best distance-to-spot ratio you can because a few ultra cheap ones have ratios like 1:1 (standing one foot from the target reads an area about a foot across). Edit: Tommychu posted:Yeah FLIRs are the tits but also way rich for my taste. I've been thinking about picking up a lovely camera and removing the IR filter for stuff like that. That should be fine.
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Jul 20, 2015 04:07
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OSU_Matthew posted:Anyone have any experience or thoughts regarding Makita power tools? I was browsing 18v Li-Ion tool sets yesterday, and I saw an Amazon Warehouse deal for these: I've spent $70k in the past 9 months purchasing about every kind of Makita tool they make. From simple cordless tools to jack hammers to table saws. I've had two come back. A cordless trim saw dropped off a 3 story scaffold and a 1/2 impact that sheared off its own bit carrier on a concrete remidiation job. I've had 3 Milwaukee cordless tools come back...out of 12. They short out in the rain. Milwaukee is the Dewalt of 2000. Mediocre tools and a great marketing program. As far as commercial service goes, Makita is bar none. Our rep comes around once a week to check in and diagnose any problems. Travels to job sites and recommends fixes and solutions to problems...I just cannot recommend them enough.
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Jul 20, 2015 05:11
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I'm a busy guy and want an engine hoist and stand to go in my oversized 2-car garage. Harbor Freight has a store like 5 minutes from my house, are any of those worth what little money they're asking? I'm just an enthusiast at the moment and don't plan on working on anything larger than a run-of-the-mill small block V8 (whatever the hell that means).
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Jul 21, 2015 22:38
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scuz posted:I'm a busy guy and want an engine hoist and stand to go in my oversized 2-car garage. Harbor Freight has a store like 5 minutes from my house, are any of those worth what little money they're asking? I'm just an enthusiast at the moment and don't plan on working on anything larger than a run-of-the-mill small block V8 (whatever the hell that means). Yeah, HF's engine hoist and stands are great, just make sure you get the 4-wheel engine stand and not the lovely tripod one that will tip over if you try to move it.
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Jul 21, 2015 22:47
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In my limited experience, the hoist was good but the stand was marginal. The stand technically worked, but felt sketchy the whole time (with just a 4-cyl 2 liter Volvo engine on it). I felt like I needed to be really careful with it compared to some of the name-brand ones in that shop that handled fatass complete V8 diesel engines no problem. Have a helper for moving it when it's loaded, especially over cracks or any uneven surface.
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Jul 21, 2015 22:54
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They actually have 3 stands, IIRC. A 3 wheel garbage one, a 4 wheel one, and a larger 4 wheel one I think. I own like 3 or 4 of the smaller 4 wheel ones and they are decent for a V6 and a little sketchy for an I6, not sure I'd put a V8 on one. The 2 ton engine hoist is fine, the larger one is even better. Get their load leveler while you're at it. If you have a decently strong I-beam hanging level across your shop, just throw a dolly and one of their 2 ton chainfall hoists on it instead. Way better. Once I get my house a bit more put together, I'm going to get a 20ft S8-18.4 I-beam from the local steel supply shop (should cost around 350 bucks I was told) with some ironwork holding each end up, which should let me roll anything under about a thousand pounds in through the basement door without it ever touching the ground, with a maximum beam sag of ~0.17" at the middle. If I build a support gantry at the middle for super heavy lifting, that goes down to ~0.02" worstcase deflection with 1000lb hanging from it. 0.17" over 20' is a deflection of L/1400, which is as far as I know WELL under the allowable limits. Actually, I don't think I'd set up a garage or shop without such a beam set up sideways across both bays. That way you can just push your busted poo poo into one bay, back a pickup into the other, and lift your donor engine and old engine right up one at a time and swap em. Never even have to touch the floor if you don't want them to. Stuff to take into account: - beam, trolley, and chainfall cost vs a hoist (it's going to run you probably 5-6 times as much, guesstimate) - max/min web width the trolley you get can handle - max allowable beam deflection (here's a calculator http://www.engineeringcalculator.net/beam_calculator.html)
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Jul 22, 2015 00:46
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The stand I'm complaining about is red and has fold-up legs IIRC. Probably the cheapest of the 3.
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Jul 22, 2015 01:32
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scuz posted:I'm looking for a cheap Chinese hoist that won't kill me, for verily I am but a entry-level enthusiast kastein posted:[notes on building highly-resilient two-bay overhead engine hoist with steel grades/price, min/max deflection measurements, detailed physics calculator] This is why I love this subforum, no sarcasm
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Jul 22, 2015 02:39
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