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kastein posted:The best thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from! Alright then, how about this? Buy your watch batteries off Amazon. You can get a card of 10 of a name brand for  plus shipping. You can do all your remotes at once.
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Jul 14, 2015 02:30
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2003 Mazda Protege5 with the Mazda FS-DE 4cyl inline engine. 100,000 miles. This weekend I replaced the valve cover gasket, because it was leaking a little oil onto the exhaust headers. First I just want to brag a little. One of the valve cover bolts sheared instead of coming out. Gentlmen: BEHOLD  Yes, that's right. I successfully used a bolt extractor without breaking it off in the bolt. ANYWAY, once I had that all worked out, I replaced the valve cover, re-connected the wires I had disconnected, and tried to start the car. But it won't start! The engine turns over (but seems to be struggling to do that) but it won't catch. Since it was running perfectly before I took off the valve cover, and I did nothing that would have disturbed the fuel system, I started with the assumption that the most likely problem is spark. And, since only one of the four spark plug wires basically dangles loose and flops around when the cover is off, I pulled that wire, pulled the plug it was attached to, and had my wife crank the engine. To my surprise, the engine started immediately! It puffed air out the spark plug hole as expected. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the plug. I re-gapped it, replaced it, torqued to the high end of spec (~15+ ft-lbs), and tried again. Same symptom as before, only it was even harder for the engine to turn over. I put a battery charger onto the battery (the charger is currently reading 6 volts, so I suspect the battery may be partially discharged) but the car won't start even with the charger hooked up, although it turns over easier. Do the symptoms suggest I've got a bad wire? Or plug? Or maybe while disconnecting/reconnecting the coils etc. that are mounted to the valve cover, I might have broken a brittle wire? My service manual says to test spark by doing this: quote:• Remove high-tension lead from spark plug. I don't understand what's meant by "Hold with installed pliers." With no spark plug in the lead, there's a huge distance for the spark to travel. Are they suggesting sticking a pair of pliers into the lead to make a connection, and then holding the pliers near the frame or the ground terminal of the battery? Isn't that kind of dangerous?
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Jul 14, 2015 03:01
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They probably meant insulated. I would skip that step entirely, ignition systems run at voltages well in excess of anything any of the pliers I own are rated for.
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Jul 14, 2015 03:10
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So how should I test for spark? Pull the spark plug, stick it in the lead, hold the side of the plug near ground? Is it safe to hold the thing with my hand while I crank the engine?
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Jul 14, 2015 04:22
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Hold the threaded part of the plug against a grounded surface of the engine (generally the head is what I use) firmly and stay away from the insulator and high tension lead while someone cranks it. As long as you're touching the grounded part and not near the HV parts you will be fine. Unplug the injector for that cylinder so you aren't shooting air/fuel mix out the plug hole while testing for spark a few inches away.
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Jul 14, 2015 04:31
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Progress report: battery tender was down to 4 volts. I tested the wire for that cylinder using a voltmeter and it was fine. Reinstalled, and engine started with all plugs & wires installed. My current operating theory: battery was low. Previously, it didn't have enough juice to start with all four plugs installed, but pulling one plug reduced the load by enough for the engine to start. Now that the battery is charged better, the car can start. Alternate theory: there's an intermittent fault or short that I cleared by just jiggering with poo poo and maybe it will come back. I think I'm gonna let the tender sit overnight and then see how it does tomorrow. Maybe replace the battery before our 10-hour trip to Portland on Saturday.
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Jul 14, 2015 04:58
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Depending on the charge rate of your tender and how low the battery was, that might not be enough time. I had to leave a battery charging for about two, two and a half days when it was flat. Edit: Not to tell you to change your plan, just don't be surprised if it's not enough.
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Jul 14, 2015 05:00
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shabbat goy posted:2004 Golf TDI. This morning when I turned my AC on after having it off for a while, some smoke/vapor came out of my vents so I turned it off and opened the windows for a while. Turned it back on when I got to work to test and it didn't happen again, and it blew cold air just fine. I can't say whether it smelled or not since the windows were open to clear it out, but when it was on later there was no smell and no smoke. I think it's either high humidity or a bad heater core. What's the best way to check my heater core (without taking the dash off) so I can figure out whether or not I should bring it in? Nothings wrong its hot and humid. If you had it on then turned it off them back on again the system was already cold/ready to go but the air in the car was humid enough to conensate and blow (steam) at you... like opening a fridge or freezer when its hot as balls out. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jul 14, 2015 |
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Jul 14, 2015 05:19
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Godholio posted:Depending on the charge rate of your tender and how low the battery was, that might not be enough time. I had to leave a battery charging for about two, two and a half days when it was flat. Hm. Well, I drove the car into the garage, and it starts now, so I'll just take it out for a 30-minute drive tomorrow, get it up to freeway speeds, and then see how its doing. I think if I bop over to autozone they can test it for me.
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Jul 14, 2015 06:56
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You might have just jiggled one of the coilpacks loose/not had the boots fully seated on the plugs.
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Jul 14, 2015 08:28
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Godholio posted:This is where I'd start. If you don't have one, a Mityvac is great for this. I'd start with the screws 1 full turn out, then go in increments of 1/4 turn until you see the peak vacuum, that's where you want them. Also make sure your vacuum advance is the proper canister. You should be able to find the right part number on a forum somewhere (depends on which 327 you've got, etc). Also check your timing. I have the service manuals for both the chassis and the body. Just picked up the assembly manual on your recommendation. My carb is a Holley as well, but I can't recall off the top of my head which one. I will have to check when I get home to confirm. So since I had just hit about 2k miles on the engine rebuild, it was just at the shop and they did a case flush, changed oil, set the timing and replaced an alternator belt which was squeaking at high RPMs. I should point out something I didn't point out earlier: I am very much a beginner at all this, so at times y'all are talking over my head. I bought the car knowing that to keep it running would require gaining some knowledge (not to mention tools), so I am still learning. Tell me about this MityVac. I am on their website, but what am I looking for specifically here? My ignition coil is sitting right on top, only held on by 2 screw and connected to 3 wires, so checking that will be trivial. The only reason I am stuck on it is because 3 people, including one in person who had the exact same problem said that's what fixed it. It's easy enough to check, at any rate. Might be this weekend before I have time to check the carb stuff, though.
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Jul 14, 2015 12:11
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This morning the battery charger is down to just under 2 volts... and I can hear the battery bubbling merrily. That... doesn't seem ideal. I can add distilled water, but shouldn't it like, not be electrolyzing the water until the battery is fully charged? This is a very dumb old charger from Sears from like 1980 or so. I've taken it off for the moment.
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Jul 14, 2015 17:04
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...I would replace that battery, or at least (carefully) haul it into a parts store to have it bench tested. You may have a shorted cell.
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Jul 14, 2015 17:16
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Leperflesh posted:This morning the battery charger is down to just under 2 volts... and I can hear the battery bubbling merrily. That... doesn't seem ideal. I can add distilled water, but shouldn't it like, not be electrolyzing the water until the battery is fully charged? When you say 2 volts, is that just the voltage across the battery terminals, or is it a gauge on the charger?
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Jul 14, 2015 17:27
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Are you sure it isn't the amp gauge? Also, it really shouldn't bubble 
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Jul 14, 2015 18:21
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3rding this.. most chargers have an ameter on them.. more amps flowing = battery low on charge, Less amps flowing = battery full. BUT.. a sizzling /bubbling noise from a battery is concerning.. I'd maybe put it in a metal box and take it somewhere to hvae it tested.. or bring it back for a core charge and get a new battery..
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Jul 14, 2015 18:27
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Oh. OK yeah I'm an idiot: the gauge is D.C. Amps. It was at just under 2 amps when I took it off this morning. It was around 5 amps when I first attached the charger yesterday. It's in a reasonably well-ventilated spot in the garage, I left the hood open, and I was careful about sparks nearby. I'm aware of what hydrogen + oxygen can do. I'll take it over to autozone for testing later today. It's definitely an older battery, I can't read the labels until I take apart the clamp and box that holds it in place. I cleaned quite a bit of blue corrosion off the terminals before I reconnected it yesterday.
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Jul 14, 2015 18:37
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My wife is jonesin' for a new RAV4, and I know there are some Toyota-savvy folks here. Any big known issues with 2AR-FE that I should be wary of?
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Jul 14, 2015 20:20
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I'm looking to buy some aftermarket wheels for my 66 Mustang. I've never bought wheels before, is there anything I need to keep in mind? I think I found a set I want same size and lug pattern but the backspace on my current wheels is 4" and the backspace on the ones I want to buy are 3.5". Are they just going to stick out further than my current wheels?
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Jul 14, 2015 22:00
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Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this, but I have a question about wireless car chargers. Specifically, I'm hoping to use an Air Dock 2.0 with my Nexus 5 in a 2007 Chevrolet Impala. I've just found out that my accessory charging ports (cigarette lighter jacks) in my car remain on even when the engine is off. I was really hoping to be able to leave my wireless charger plugged in at all times. Having to plug/unplug the charging dock every time I get into the car defeats the entire purpose of a wireless charger. But if my ports are always on, I'm worried that the car battery could drain over night (or a few days if I don't drive for a while). Does anyone have any experience with this? From what I can tell the charger uses 2 amps of power. Some people online seem to suggest doing all kinds of electrical mods on the car but I'm wary of doing that because it's old and has had computer problems before. It was a gift so I'm reluctant to have it returned, but I'm pretty worried about how useful this will be. Quite annoyed, I just assumed that at least one of my car's power adapters would turn off with the engine, since my friends with wireless car chargers all have that feature in their cars. Surprisingly there is little information about this online.
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Jul 14, 2015 23:24
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Check around, you might have another port that isn't hot at all times - my Jeep has two +12V power points in the center console. One is only hot with the key on, the other is hot at all times. If you aren't that lucky, you can always modify one to be ignition-controlled. I did this on my Ranger where both were hot at all times. The safest way to do it is to use a relay:  Cut the +12V wire leading to the accessory socket you want to modify, connect the end from the car to pin 30, connect the end from the socket to pin 87. Use an add-a-fuse with a small fuse in it and install it in your fuseblock on a circuit that is only hot when the key is on. Run a wire from the add-a-fuse to pin 86, run a wire from pin 85 to a good ground. Congrats, your socket will now only work when the key is on, and you only had to modify one factory wire to do so (which you can always just crimp back together if you want to undo this). Also, the relay is rated to handle more power than the accessory socket, so you aren't limiting your options there, and the additional load of the relay on whatever switched circuit you add it to is inconsequential. If you have an aftermarket headunit, you can even skip the add-a-fuse and use something like the amplifier turn-on output from it to switch the relay on.
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Jul 14, 2015 23:31
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Unfortunately all 3 ports are always-on. Is it neccesary to do that modification or is there a chance it won't discharge the battery despite being plugged in? I do appreciate all the information for the mods but its not even my car so I don't think I could make those changes. I was hoping there might be an adapter or something that could do the trick.
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Jul 14, 2015 23:36
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MoosetheMooche posted:Unfortunately all 3 ports are always-on. Is it neccesary to do that modification or is there a chance it won't discharge the battery despite being plugged in? I do appreciate all the information for the mods but its not even my car so I don't think I could make those changes. I was hoping there might be an adapter or something that could do the trick. Does it draw 2 amps when the phone is on it and charging or 2 amps when its just sitting there not being used. I would think the draw from it being idle would be far less than 2 amps, and if that's the case I would just leave it plugged in.
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Jul 14, 2015 23:41
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MoosetheMooche posted:Unfortunately all 3 ports are always-on. Is it neccesary to do that modification or is there a chance it won't discharge the battery despite being plugged in? I do appreciate all the information for the mods but its not even my car so I don't think I could make those changes. I was hoping there might be an adapter or something that could do the trick. If you want it to switch on/off with the car, yes, you're going to have to modify it. Will it drain the battery too much? Depends on how good the battery is, how much it actually draws when plugged in but not charging anything, and how long you leave the car sitting between drives. All modern cars draw some power from the battery when not running. Try it? Buy a jump start pack and keep it in the trunk if you're worried about having to get a jump if the answer ends up being "yes, it drains too much". I'm going to do the same thing with a rear-facing dashcam eventually; I have a power outlet at the back of my Jeep that I'm pretty sure is always-on, and I'd rather leave it running 24x7 anyway since I won't be able to easily switch it off/on to reboot it if it acts up like my front one does sometimes. I also don't have much access to switched power back there, I think.
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Jul 15, 2015 00:01
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I had a monster fm transmitter for my ipod backnin the day and if I left it plugged in and didnt drive for a weekend it drained my battery. No clue on the draw of the device.. you will be okay but if you park friday and dont start until Monday you may be in for a jump.
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Jul 15, 2015 01:47
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HaB posted:I have the service manuals for both the chassis and the body. Just picked up the assembly manual on your recommendation. My carb is a Holley as well, but I can't recall off the top of my head which one. I will have to check when I get home to confirm. So since I had just hit about 2k miles on the engine rebuild, it was just at the shop and they did a case flush, changed oil, set the timing and replaced an alternator belt which was squeaking at high RPMs. This is the Mityvac I've got. I can use it to bleed the brakes (rather than having someone pump the brake pedal), and I can just connect it to the hose that runs from the carb to the vacuum canister (on the distributor) to measure vacuum while setting the idle air/fuel. You keep saying ignition coil...do you have an aftermarket ignition? Can you just post a pic of your engine so we can see if there's anything unusual? Coil packs in Chevies weren't a thing until like the 1990s. Since you've got a holley, it should have the part numbers stamped up near the top, on the tall section of where the air flows in. That should help you identify what you've got. There are two kinds of numbers your search might result in...something like 4160 or 4150 is kind of a family of carbs. It's a basic design. Then there's the list number, which is probably also 4 digits. If that carb isnt original, it's probably a 3310 (which is part of the 4160 family). Google is great for this stuff, because collectors and old timers post on car message boards and discuss the hell out of part numbers, original applications, repair techniques, tools to use, etc. On corvetteforum one of the best sources of info is actually one of the main engineers from the assembly plant in the 60s. Lots of great info out there.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you have an aftermarket headunit, you can even skip the add-a-fuse and use something like the amplifier turn-on output from it to switch the relay on. You mean the power antenna output? That's pretty slick. I've never thought about that before.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:28
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kid sinister posted:You mean the power antenna output? That's pretty slick. I've never thought about that before. It's what I did on my Ranger to avoid having to find a circuit to tap into, though I could have just as well tapped into the switched wire leading to the head unit. My Sony head unit has both antenna and amp signals - the antenna one is only hot when it's in FM.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:31
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Godholio posted:This is the Mityvac I've got. I can use it to bleed the brakes (rather than having someone pump the brake pedal), and I can just connect it to the hose that runs from the carb to the vacuum canister (on the distributor) to measure vacuum while setting the idle air/fuel. Ordered that Mityvac. I made an imgur album if the engine with a few pics I just snapped, mostly of the carb. Clicky So the thing I'm referring to when I say "ignition coil" is the thing in the 4th picture connected to the center of the distributor. All the parts sites I can order one from call it an ignition coil, too. Is that not the correct term? And it's definitely aftermarket. I took pics of the 3 sides of the carb I could reach. I tried to take an overall pic of the engine, but it didn't come out great, but it's in there too.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:54
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Final (hopefully) followup. Autozone tested my battery. It was at 100% charge, 12.7 volts, and needed to be replaced. New Duralast in the car, and it starts super-easy and all is well. Thanks for your help, goons.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:55
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HaB posted:Ordered that Mityvac. Ok, cool. You're right, that is an ignition coil...it's in a completely different location from mine. When you mentioned it was up on top, I assumed you had some kind of aftermarket setup that mounts them to the firewall, or replaces the old-style distributor (which is obviously the new way of doing things). What you've got is just an aftermarket replacement, the original looked basically the same, and that's probably the factory location, it's just not one I'm familiar with. And that's not a 4150/60 carb. I don't know that one at all...my carb knowledge is extremely limited.
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Jul 15, 2015 03:25
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Godholio posted:I don't know that one at all...my carb knowledge is extremely limited. Right there on the side of the carb in the third picture - Quadrajet  I see you - or someone in the past - had trouble with that fuel hard-line. I twisted mine off on my C10 ages ago, replaced it with a couple of barbs and some fuel rated hose from the pump up to the carb. Do you smell fuel when it stalls? How easy / hard is it to start up? I had my Qjet get a bit of crud on one of the seats so that the needle couldn't move all the way in, and it would run like a raped ape at WOT... But it would eventually flood out at idle, and when it restarted it would spit out a giant black cloud of unburnt fuel.
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Jul 15, 2015 03:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Right there on the side of the carb in the third picture - Quadrajet Yeah the almost kink was me when I was changing the fuel filter. Why do they even sell adjustable crescent wrenches? They're freakin' useless. I don't smell fuel when it stalls. I do have to pump the pedal a bit to get it to restart. Since I've been paying a lot of attention to it over the last few days. It really is a HARD drop in idle speed as soon as you put it in gear. And if you don't goose it immediately, it will stall. Problem is, I don't have much time to do anything during the week due to work. I have been surviving by coasting to a stop in neutral.
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Jul 15, 2015 03:49
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HaB posted:Yeah the almost kink was me when I was changing the fuel filter. Why do they even sell adjustable crescent wrenches? They're freakin' useless. Adjustable crescent wrenches are useless. without this one simple trick.. http://amzn.to/1DfKzFq I never knew this thing existed until the tools thread.. I asked for one for the birth of zombie jesus and I use it probably every other week, Seriously it doesn't suck because it locks it doesn't get loose like every other adjustable.
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Jul 15, 2015 04:00
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Adjustable wrenches are the devil. Use proper size open-end or combination wrenches.
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Jul 15, 2015 04:43
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HotCanadianChick posted:Adjustable wrenches are the devil. Use proper size open-end or combination wrenches. Yes but sometimes fittings have bee. hosed and you need something like above.. normally I use the right sized wernch.. but having a locking adjustable is the difference between night and day.
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Jul 15, 2015 13:45
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HotCanadianChick posted:Adjustable wrenches are the devil. Use proper size open-end or combination wrenches. Look at this guy who doesn't own a locking adjustable  I have actually used mine on brake line flare nuts because it holds them better than a few of my line wrenches do, especially after they've had just enough rusted off to not be 3/8" anymore, but not enough to be 5/16".
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Jul 15, 2015 15:26
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^^^ or the guy doesn't live in the north.. there are so many times where rust/crust has made some bolts no longer a spesific size so you end up rounding them becsuse nothing fits, or using a locked adjust.
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Jul 15, 2015 16:08
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Any tips or gotchas for doing the clutch on a S2000?
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Jul 15, 2015 16:53
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Astonishing Wang posted:Once the straps are off you may need to use a pry bar or something to compress the shaft and allow it to come loose. Pry it inwards away from the yoke. Before I fire the parts cannon, the other thing I'm having an issue with is my clutch pedal on the same 2000 S10. It's very, very stiff and engages just nearly to the floor. Some people say slave cylinder, but before I buy one of those and go through removing the transmission to get to the slave cylinder, I thought I'd ask this lovely thread if they had any clues. tater_salad posted:^^^ or the guy doesn't live in the north.. there are so many times where rust/crust has made some bolts no longer a spesific size so you end up rounding them becsuse nothing fits, or using a locked adjust. scuz fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jul 15, 2015 |
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Jul 15, 2015 17:06
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