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Mercury Ballistic posted:A general OBDII question: has anyone experienced a situation where their car is CEL free for extended periods, but after letting someone else drive CELs appear out of the ether? I have had this more than a few times with my truck. In one case the previous driver got them, then when I took over ownership they vanished. Any ideas? My wife's friend used to drive her car in a way that would cause the CEL to come on. We couldn't figure it out for the longest time. Then the CEL started coming on when we were driving it, too (months later), and it turned out it was a bad coil. We still don't know how she'd drive the thing so the CEL would come on, though.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:27
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Mercury Ballistic posted:A general OBDII question: has anyone experienced a situation where their car is CEL free for extended periods, but after letting someone else drive CELs appear out of the ether? I have had this more than a few times with my truck. In one case the previous driver got them, then when I took over ownership they vanished. Any ideas? Depends entirely on the particular DTC triggered, make, model, year, engine, transmission, and even firmware revision. If you keep the tank above like 1/2 to 7/8 of a tank (depends on make/model/year) the evap leak tests will never run, for instance. If you don't, they will! If you really romp on it, you're going to clean a lot more carbon and garbage out of the system and may keep it in open loop more of the time so it's less likely to detect a minor AFR related issue. If you demand a lot from your ignition system it is more likely to misfire. Many 96 Subarus are known for never, ever passing emissions due to really fucky first-year OBD2 implementation. If you have a dead spot in the TPS, it may freak out and report it if your driving style involves keeping the throttle there for long periods of time but it may never notice that spot is bad if you're a binary throttle, hammer down pin-it-to-win-it racecar driver. I was working on a project to fool the TCU on a 98-01 4.0L automatic Jeep Cherokee into never throwing any transmission codes even if the solenoids were disconnected and wired to a homebuilt flappy paddle shifter and was CEL free for a loving month of daily driving, then I romped on it a lot right in the RPM/throttle/speed range where it tried to do a 2-3 upshift due to throttle lift just as I did a manual 3-2 downshift and was going to hammer on it. It immediately threw a solenoid function DTC. It really depends and there are any number of explanations and edge cases where your driving style can make codes go away or come back.
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Jul 22, 2015 00:57
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I assume for things like transmission problems/codes you could be the type of person that "predicts and assists" (easing off and/or applying more throttle, based on grade and load, kind of hard to explain?) the automatic transmission at the shift points, whereas a person you lend the car to doesn't know how it behaves, and a transmission that's on the edge of throwing a code with you could struggle with someone who hammers it or babies it. Maybe? I had a 96 Acclaim that the PO clearly didn't use the proper ATF+4 in for a few thousand miles, and when I drove it I could predict its bad behavior and "help" it through shifts by jamming the throttle a bit near the shift point and cause a harder shift, that it could handle. Then my friend drove it and it slipped and missed shifts all over the place and pitched a fit.
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Jul 22, 2015 01:13
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Yeah, for sure. For instance I could keep the codes away for weeks on my 01 dodge 2500 w/ a 5.2L V8 and 46RE transmission by romping on it all through first gear, then letting up to barely above idle right as it tried to shift to second gear so it wouldn't do a burnout with the bands/clutches, then once it had finished shifting, romp on it again. If I had to just lay into it to avoid getting run down by traffic, it'd slip like a bastard and go into limp mode.
kastein fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 01:15
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Thanks for the elaboration and speculation. FWIW the truck is a manual 2000 4wd Tacoma with the 2.7 liter. 244k. I asked because the CEL driver is about to borrow it for a few days.
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Jul 22, 2015 02:31
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You may want to grab one of those elm327 readers and then see what codes happen when they return. May be a bit much to ask for them to install an app and log each trip. Edited as "these" should have been a link but I suck at phone posting. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 03:07
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tater_salad posted:You may want to grab one of these and then see what codes happen when they return. May be a bit much to ask for them to install an app and log each trip. I have a nexus and torque. Was mostly curious if anyone else had experienced this phenomenon.
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Jul 22, 2015 03:15
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General_Failure posted:This is probably a really stupid question but where the hell do I buy reasonably priced wiper blades? Just the blades. I'm in Australia. I can't help on where to buy them, but if they're ruined by the environment regardless of use, I'd suggest keeping a set on hand that you install just for inspection, then swap back to your lovely ones. Edit: Finally edited and uploaded a video of my own problem. 2012 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 3.6L Pentastar auto, 53,000 miles. No other issues besides this intermittent mess. No noticeable loss of power, no other electrical gremlins (though this is a bare-bones model besides AC and auto). I can't put together a trend. It seems to be random, but usually while driving, speeds anywhere from 25-75. My first guess is that it's a wheel speed sensor freaking out. Is there a good way to test them? I've removed and inspected the rear sensors and they don't appear broken, wiring looks intact. The fronts are buried under the calipers so I haven't bothered yet. Any suggestions on what else could be doing this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zftve5GwSo Edit2: Actual speed in this video is probably about 65. Godholio fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 03:37
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Hey car dudes! I think my sexy '88 Dearborn/Ford E-250 Class B RV may need a tune-up, and definitely some brake system work. It usually takes a couple cranks of the key to get it running, it stinks to high heaven like rotten eggs after about 5 miles of driving (which is basically any time I drive it), is tough to get it up to freeway speed (but once it's there, it cruises fine) and has started to rough idle/chug after I've driven it for about a half hour (I notice this when I park and before I turn it off). I've done my google homework, and I think these add up to a tune-up, but I certainly need to take it in to a mechanic to know for sure. I used to have a loving stellar guy to take it to, but I now live 1100 miles away from his shop. Any recommendations for a solid mechanic/repair shop that can do RVs in the San Diego area? ----------- Also, I'm able to do some basic work myself (brake replacements, oil changes, you know, those boring things your dad makes you help him on when you're a kid), and would like to be able to do other "simple-ish" things. Any good books out there to read to get me started on being literate and conversant on how cars work?
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Jul 22, 2015 08:34
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Thanks for the elaboration and speculation. FWIW the truck is a manual 2000 4wd Tacoma with the 2.7 liter. 244k. I asked because the CEL driver is about to borrow it for a few days. This is stupid, but is there a possibility that the borrower doesn't put the gas cap on as tightly as you do? Like, they stop after one click and you go three?
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Jul 22, 2015 17:23
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My brother is the borrower, he is too cheap to put gas in. Seriously though, it was not gas related as far as I can recall.
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Jul 22, 2015 18:46
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Mercury Ballistic posted:My brother is the borrower, he is too cheap to put gas in. Seriously though, it was not gas related as far as I can recall. You tell that mother fucker that when he brings the truck back it better have more gas in than when he borrowed it. Who the gently caress....
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Jul 22, 2015 18:50
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Astonishing Wang posted:You tell that mother fucker that when he brings the truck back it better have more gas in than when he borrowed it. Rule1 for anyone borrowing anything.. Leave it in better condition than when you borrowed it.
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Jul 22, 2015 20:04
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Oh I agree completely. Working on the issue.
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Jul 22, 2015 20:28
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Oh I agree completely. Working on the issue. Stop letting him borrow it, problem solved  .
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Jul 22, 2015 20:36
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EightBit posted:Stop letting him borrow it, problem solved How I fixed the exact same issue with my brother. Borrowing my truck with a full tank and bringing it back on fumes ain't cool, bro.
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Jul 22, 2015 20:52
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Clearly my priorities are mixed. I should be ignoring the CEL and insteading fixing my brothers attitude. I'll get on it.
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Jul 22, 2015 21:24
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AI doesn't give you the advice you want, it gives you the advice you deserve.
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Jul 23, 2015 02:08
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1997 Toyota Corolla LE stick shift. Sits all winter. Gets inspected, passes. Drives fine for a two days. Takes a left turn up a gentle slope, stops dead. No sign of mechanical distress. Just kaput. Gets pushed into parking lot. Gets a jump, lights come right on, starts right up. Drives home okay, all sorts of turns and slopes. Not a car person, so wth?
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Jul 23, 2015 02:39
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Natty Ninefingers posted:1997 Toyota Corolla LE stick shift. lovely battery connections, low fuel, hosed power steering in some way, some other wiring problems. Can you tilt it up with a jack while it runs?
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Jul 23, 2015 03:01
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2012 Lexus IS 350, 27k miles, owned since new, with nearly pristine OE wheels as of last week I took the wife's car to have new tires installed, and when I got it back the driver's side wheel was heavily scratched. They (meaning the guy who did the work) didn't fess up to this; I found it. I know the manager(s) and owner, having been a frequent customer 6-8 years ago when I was autocrossing competitively. I called it to their attention and they admitted fault, and suggested a couple of remedies. The first would be to send the wheel off for refinishing. From what I know of this, I'm pretty sure the wheel could be refinished to my satisfaction, which is to say near-perfect. The downside is that we'd be without the car for a week, which is an inconvenience. The second would be to source a "new" wheel from salvage. My concern here is that I would want it to be an OE wheel, and not to be straight and not out-of-round. Also, the wheel sizes are staggered, so of course we'd have to make sure that it's the right size (not just right diameter). I called Lexus to price a new wheel: about $740. We didn't discuss that as an option (yet). The manager is going to talk to the owner and see what they can do. What's my best option here?
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Jul 23, 2015 19:21
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Easychair Bootson posted:What's my best option here? Have them refinish the wheel and put you in a rental car until it's done.
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Jul 23, 2015 19:41
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Generic eBay turbos: Valid option to save $$$, or future content for "Post Pictures Of Horrible Mechanical Failures"? Bought a collision repair project car which is nearing completion, and considered dumping the proceeds from it's sale into my DSM that's been mothballed away for the better part of the past decade. I've probably got a pile of stock MHI 14b turbos somewhere, as well as the stock manifold and o2 sensor housing to work with it, but was set up to run a Turbonetics T3/T4 which I'm pretty sure is long gone. Part of me is afraid that whatever I might save by using a generic turbo will wind up spent replacing it and fixing the engine damage it does if and when it fails. On the other hand, I'd like to do better than a 14b without spending four figures. e: two_beer_bishes posted:I remember looking into ebay turbos a few years ago and there were known problems such as the housings coming apart because they used lovely glue to hold them together! Entangled fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 20:06
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Entangled posted:Generic eBay turbos: Valid option to save $$$, or future content for "Post Pictures Of Horrible Mechanical Failures"? I remember looking into ebay turbos a few years ago and there were known problems such as the housings coming apart because they used lovely glue to hold them together!
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Jul 23, 2015 21:45
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Geoj posted:Have them refinish the wheel and put you in a rental car until it's done.
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Jul 24, 2015 02:59
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2001 suburban. stock delco radio. A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative battery terminal while troubleshooting a broken power seat, and somehow blew the radio's fuse. I replaced it and all was well. This morning I decided to listen to FM radio instead of my phone through the tape deck. It was silent. AM radio "works" (I hear static as normal, I don't normally pick up AM in the morning here.). Is this more likely to be a loose antenna connector or a bad tuner? sidenote: I'm pretty sure I tested FM when I replaced the fuse, but it's quite possible that I didn't and it's been messed up this whole time.
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Jul 24, 2015 17:04
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Currently driving in our tour van to a gig (van posting!) - 1990 dodge 2500 with a 318, 46k miles. We're heading down donner summit towards Sacramento, and the van is running good, bit the check engine light just came on? Why might it do that?
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Jul 24, 2015 20:45
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Currently driving in our tour van to a gig (van posting!) - 1990 dodge 2500 with a 318, 46k miles. We're heading down donner summit towards Sacramento, and the van is running good, bit the check engine light just came on? Why might it do that?
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Jul 24, 2015 20:50
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There is nothing to plug a scanner into in a 1990, as far as I know.
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Jul 24, 2015 21:02
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Mr. Wiggles posted:There is nothing to plug a scanner into in a 1990, as far as I know. https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.autos.tech/LmLl7yxlWSQ posted:The first thing to do is to check for flash codes. edit: also this: http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/index.html
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Jul 24, 2015 21:14
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Mr. Wiggles posted:There is nothing to plug a scanner into in a 1990, as far as I know. Its still entirely possible it has an OBD I port. Call a nearby parts store and ask them if they can do it.
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Jul 24, 2015 21:15
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Ha-ha, that flashing thing is hilarious. We'll do that next stop.
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Jul 24, 2015 21:16
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Ha-ha, that flashing thing is hilarious. We'll do that next stop. Are you a 90's kid or just don't realise that literally every EFI car was like this until someone thought to make a pluggy-in-thingy?
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Jul 24, 2015 21:57
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Heck, I can still click my Jeep on and off a few times, and my odometer will display any codes.
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Jul 24, 2015 22:04
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I wonder what my VW would do if I tried that. One of the taillights will burn out while the wipers turn on, probably...
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Jul 24, 2015 22:20
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Brother borrowed the truck today. Tells me he will gas it this time. He made it about 4 miles and got a CEL. I don't know what to think. I have been driving it about 300 miles in the last 10 days alone, no problems.
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Jul 24, 2015 23:31
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03 Blazer If it's a hot day and the A/C has been running, the coolant temp tends to spike if the engine is shut off for a short period of time and then started again. Drive around with A/C on, stop at a store and run in for a minute. Start truck, temp gauge will immediately rise to halfway between 210/260 (235ish?) Engine noise will also increase. Coolant temp will return to normal after about a minute of truck movement. This can't be good for the engine, and makes me hesitate to use the A/C. Fan clutch seems to be okay, fan moves freely by hand but not too loose. Might do a flush, it needs it anyway, maybe this will help?
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Jul 24, 2015 23:32
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porkfriedrice posted:03 Blazer Water pump and stuff have been done right?
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Jul 24, 2015 23:35
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My apologies if this isn't the right thread for this, but it's my first time buying a car from a non-craigslist source and I don't know what counts as normal. Unfortunately it's for a car <$10k so the dealerships don't seem to care much. I ran into a group of sales guys earler today who won't give me a firm number as to the APR for the financing and I think that is a dick move. They said it would take a while to run the numbers and I should either move on it or ~take my chances~ and wait until tomorrow. Am I right in just walking away from this bs or is it a reasonable delay for a credit check? I'm just surprised because I thought it was a decently respected dealership but I don't really want to give them money if they're jerking me around like I suspect they are.
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Jul 24, 2015 23:39
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VelociBacon posted:Water pump and stuff have been done right? Bought the truck about three years ago with ~78,000 miles, now has ~109,000. As far as I know the water pump is original. You think the water pump is losing its efficiency?
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Jul 24, 2015 23:47
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