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Bape Culture posted:Buy poor boys black hole for small rear end scratches if you can't be arsed machining. Wow, if reviews are anything to go by, i gotta try this
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Jul 22, 2015 20:13
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Prepainted rear bumper cover for my wife's Civic arrived today from ebay, paint match looks pretty good, put it on the car annnnnnnnnnnd Motherfucker! Pretty sure it's clipped in right but impossible to tell since I can't see the back side under the problem area. The seller has an insane amount of positive feedback so hopefully they'll make this right, although I don't look forward to wrapping this back up and sending it to them. I knew this was a risk and wasn't expecting much, but figured it was worth a gamble at $244. The paint is actually better matched than the last time she had a bumper fixed at a really reputable shop.
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Jul 23, 2015 05:44
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blk posted:
Pound on it, that looks like a clip isn't fully engaged.
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Jul 23, 2015 12:33
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Yeah give that baby a bit of a shove. Something isn't lined up right with the tail light or the upper clip of the bumper. Did the tail light move in the hit?
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Jul 23, 2015 23:38
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I took off the tail light so I could watch the clips with my bare eye; they're clicking in all the way. I noticed it's a lot lighter than the OEM bumper cover, I'm not sure if it's more succeptible to bowing or if they just did a poo poo job reproducing it.
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Jul 24, 2015 03:36
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So what does the clip look like? Can you trim the bumper tab shorter so it fits flush?
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Jul 24, 2015 03:59
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I heat gun might help things too.
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Jul 24, 2015 05:54
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BlackMK4 posted:So what does the clip look like? Can you trim the bumper tab shorter so it fits flush? Mat_Drinks posted:I heat gun might help things too. Or a combination of these things and some trim adhesive... it's close enough that you can make it work and sit right.
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Jul 24, 2015 11:15
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Would it gently caress the paint if I heat gunned from the outside? I can't get behind it. I haven't found an adhesive strong enough to hold down the errant tab. I was hoping there'd be a spot I could zip tie it but nope. I called the vendor today and got a refund and they're not asking for the bumper back so I guess I can fiddle with it however. I'm tempted to just take the old one to Maaco the next time my wife's out of town.
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Jul 25, 2015 00:23
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I usually use Sonax but I'm out right now. Is there a wheel cleaner I can pick up at O'Reilly/Advance/Wal-Mart that actually works well? Need to clean my car this weekend.
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Jul 25, 2015 00:59
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I usually use Sonax but I'm out right now. Is there a wheel cleaner I can pick up at O'Reilly/Advance/Wal-Mart that actually works well? Need to clean my car this weekend. The armor all wheel/tire cleaner in a spray bottle is actually not terrible.
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Jul 25, 2015 01:38
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The meguiars stuff in the clear purple spray bottle works well for me.
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Jul 25, 2015 05:14
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blk posted:Would it gently caress the paint if I heat gunned from the outside? I can't get behind it. I haven't found an adhesive strong enough to hold down the errant tab. I was hoping there'd be a spot I could zip tie it but nope. As long as you're careful it'll be fine... You don't want to melt it, you're just warming it up enough to make the plastic more malleable. Sometimes you can get a little extra form out of it that'll stick when it cools.
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Jul 25, 2015 06:10
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How would I go about removing concrete overspray from a car? Had a customer come in and ask and I had no clue, other than call a body shop. I'm interested to know for future reference.
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Jul 25, 2015 18:32
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QuarkMartial posted:How would I go about removing concrete overspray from a car? It all depends on the type of coverage, how thick, and how long it's been on. Concrete can be a deal killer and need to be ground off if it's thick and has gone through its full exothermic curing process. On the flip side, a lot of times it can be removed with a fingernail / plastic detail stick, but takes forever.
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Jul 25, 2015 19:45
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Looked like it had been on there a few days. I picked at it with my nail and it didn't want to flake off. Granted, I didn't try too hard as I didn't want it to pull off paint.
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Jul 25, 2015 20:56
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QuarkMartial posted:Looked like it had been on there a few days. I picked at it with my nail and it didn't want to flake off. Granted, I didn't try too hard as I didn't want it to pull off paint. There's nothing I know of that will break the bond of concrete after it has cured that wouldn't also trash your paint. Wish I had a better answer for you. 
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Jul 25, 2015 21:08
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It's cool. It's not mine. I work auto parts retail and had a customer ask. I didn't know so I figured I'd look into it for the future. Thanks for the help!
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Jul 25, 2015 21:28
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QuarkMartial posted:How would I go about removing concrete overspray from a car? Back Set Concrete Remover http://www.topoftheline.com/cement-concrete-remover-auto.html
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Jul 25, 2015 22:48
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fps_bill posted:The meguiars stuff in the clear purple spray bottle works well for me. 
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Jul 26, 2015 21:28
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Scott808 posted:Back Set Concrete Remover Interesting, I'd never seen that before, but it doesn't surprise me that it exists. :themoreyouknow:
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Jul 26, 2015 22:32
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Any of you guys ever apply OptiCoat or a similar product? I've got a new car arriving soon and while a 3M clear wrap did right by my current car there are definitely draw backs that have me considering something else.
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Jul 27, 2015 04:56
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Popped the hood after cleaning my car and just wiped down big surfaces with crud on them, which brings me to my question, what's a quick lazy method to cleaning the engine bay? I've looked it up before and saw some mentions of spraying some Simple Green or degreaser then hosing it down. Not detailed or anything, just some quick wash method like that.Mat_Drinks posted:Any of you guys ever apply OptiCoat or a similar product?  )Actually I've also applied it to my mirrorcaps that I repainted. Not too much to note there yet other than I screwed up application and have some swirls to polish out sometime, but it's not like I did a great job with the clear/polish finish underneath it either. I did that stuff by hand, probably too fast and hard I'm guessing. In general I think I've just applied too much Opticoat, wasn't noticeable on the wheels but I could see the haze when I put it on my mirrorcaps. Still buffed it clear but iirc it's a sign of too much product and/or not enough buffing for the amount applied. If I felt I could do my whole car no problem I'd probably go for it, mostly cause I'm not sure what the drawbacks are really. My paranoia is more about the prep and application rather than anything with the finished product. Like my paint looks fine but I haven't really taken much care of it, just afraid of missing some random stuff and sealing it in before noticing. japtor fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Jul 27, 2015 |
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Jul 27, 2015 09:03
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japtor posted:Popped the hood after cleaning my car and just wiped down big surfaces with crud on them, which brings me to my question, what's a quick lazy method to cleaning the engine bay? I've looked it up before and saw some mentions of spraying some Simple Green or degreaser then hosing it down. Not detailed or anything, just some quick wash method like that. What I've done (successfully) is put a plastic bag around my alternator and battery, and sprayed Scrubbing Bubbles on a cold engine bay. Let it sit for 10-15min, then spray it with the hose on "shower" setting (something light that isn't the "jet" setting). Once done, I take it on a 15min drive around town to dry it up, and it's great!
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Jul 27, 2015 14:37
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Cover up sensitive ignition components, too. I usually just let the engine run and spray with pressure washer at the pay and spray. If the engine bogs, I stop spreading that area. I should mention that when I sprayed the engine of my then non running Jeep, or ruined the ignition coil and I had to deal with a no start. I did not have anything covered during that incident, so either have the engine running or cover the sensitive parts.
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Jul 27, 2015 16:30
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japtor posted:engine bay and opticoat Thanks for the thoughts on OptiCoat. Re: engine bay, scrubbing bubbles has already been mentioned and is an easy and cheap option if you don't have too much oil and grease build up. The bad part is that it leaves a bit of shine like armor all does, so if you're picky like me you're better off with a matte cleaner, or to in the very least follow up with one after. You can use SimpleGreen, but be careful with it as it doesn't play well with Aluminum. Also, an old toothbrush will work wonders for nooks and crannies 
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Jul 28, 2015 04:48
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Mileage Mini 19,826 CRV 117,442 Prius 19,117 Thanks for the tips guys! Just gotta figure out what the stuff in my engine is cause I'm an idiot  Mat_Drinks posted:Also, an old toothbrush will work wonders for nooks and crannies  Didn't know about Simple Green and aluminum, although I guess I've read it before cause I had to find a degreaser for a kitchen hood a while back, and a lot of stuff had specific warnings about aluminum. They make some purple "pro" degreaser that was aluminum safe though iirc. Also my wheels always look like they're bleeding after the first drive after a wash:  Easy enough to wipe off quickly but still a bit annoying, particularly since I used q-tips to soak up and wipe around those little holes the other day before driving. Probably shouldn't bother next time. Would the leaf blower trick work to prevent that? (...not that I'd use a leaf blower for anything else if I got one  )
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Jul 28, 2015 07:28
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The paint on my Saturn looks like it's been through a battlefield with swirls, reflections, little scratches everywhere, etc. I tried some Ultimate Polish by hand on a section to see what it would do, and after a couple of passes with a terry applicator, it looks noticeably better, but it's still scratched/swirly. Also my arm is sore. Since I'm dealing with an uncovered parking lot, I was planning on working in sections anyways, but if I have to find a garage to borrow and buffer to make it faster, I can do that. Am I right in thinking that the "Ultimate Polish" may not cut it by hand? Is there some number of re-applications I would be shooting for that would simulate buffer work, before I should look for the next level up? Assuming the Porter-Cable is still the hotness, I can look out for that unless there is something better.
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Jul 30, 2015 23:36
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japtor posted:Mileage Pressure washer it all away surely???
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Jul 31, 2015 14:27
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Bape Culture posted:Pressure washer it all away surely??? Well I guess I could pressure wash it every time but the situation in CA and the water drought makes that less than ideal.
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Aug 1, 2015 02:14
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How bad of an idea is it to use tire shine on husky liner floor mats?
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Aug 4, 2015 01:15
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fps_bill posted:How bad of an idea is it to use tire shine on husky liner floor mats? I test drove a car where they had armor-all'd EVERYTHING, including the floor mats. It was terrifying to drive. My feet kept slipping off the pedals. The rest of the day my shoes were slippery. loving foul poo poo. I imagine it would be similar to that.
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Aug 4, 2015 01:49
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One of the part-time boat cleaners at my last job did some side work washing the salesmen's trucks on his lunch breaks. Not the brightest guy. Anyway, he covered one guy's ENTIRE TRUCK in Armor-All tire shine. Every surface, inside and out. That was good for a laugh. I'd recommend not putting it on things that aren't tires.
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Aug 4, 2015 02:12
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I'd also recommend not putting it on tires either. 303 protectant is my go-to product for anything plastic/rubber/vinyl. Spray evenly, use a small bit of cloth to get an even coat if needed, let it soak for 10-15 min or longer then wipe. Gorgeous semi-matte finish on most surfaces and it's actually good for preserving whatever it's sprayed on. Not slippery from my experience, unless you get some on a tile floor, then you'll be tripping like in Looney tunes
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Aug 4, 2015 02:43
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Nthing the "don't put it on anything you don't want to be slippery" vibe. The new natural finish Armor All is really nice, though. I've been using it on my cars for a couple months now. It just cleans everything off, and leaves a nice matte finish. Helps to cut down on glare / reflections of the dash on my windshield.
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Aug 4, 2015 03:16
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Hmmmm didn't think about The slipperiness factor, I was more worried about the smell. 8 guess well find out tomorrow. They do look drat good though. I really like Meguiar's ultimate protectant for my interior pieces. It looks good, smells good and isn't too slippery.
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Aug 4, 2015 04:57
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fps_bill posted:How bad of an idea is it to use tire shine on husky liner floor mats? Using tire shine on anything is a great idea if you want me to be mean to you 
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Aug 4, 2015 05:43
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I just saw someone mention 303. I remember a few years back, that was the go-to stuff to 'waterproof' canvas convertible tops. Now there's all kinds of different ones, anyone got a line on what the original stuff was for waterproofing fabrics? e: is it this stuff? http://www.goldeagle.com/product/303-fabric-guard anyone have any experience? I haven't done this since 2008 and I don't want to gently caress up my new robbins top.
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Aug 4, 2015 17:03
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Washed Miata (single stage paint) last night, had an emergency, parked it in the garage while wet. Really white looking water spots galore this morning - I wonder if something's changed with our water soruce. Tried using Meguiar's Ultimate Wash and Wax Anywhere (their dry wash stuff), spots don't come out. Tried Quik Detail, spots don't come out. Tried Quick Detail + Claybar - a little bit of progress, but spots don't come out. Anything else I can try before I polish the drat car again? I don't want to polish it too often as the paint seems pretty fragile - I already polished it 5ish months ago. Any ways to avoid this? I keep it pretty well waxed; I'm not sure if I should be filtering/softening the water or something.
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Aug 9, 2015 04:13
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Try a cleaner wax? Klass all-in-one is one of my favorites, pretty good for a quick detail or as first step in your waxing.
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Aug 9, 2015 06:52
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