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how about the harbor freight 3 jaw gear pullers? Are they worth my time?
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Aug 2, 2015 18:05
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Ive heard more bad then good about those. And truthfully oreillys or any parts store that sells lisle tools will have a lisle one that will be hundreds of times better
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Aug 2, 2015 18:44
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If your first project is wheel bearings, definitely go for the 20 ton. That's why I picked mine up, and I've definitely put it through its paces doing plenty of them.
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Aug 3, 2015 02:22
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PitViper posted:If your first project is wheel bearings, definitely go for the 20 ton. That's why I picked mine up, and I've definitely put it through its paces doing plenty of them. The first use of my 20 ton was a friend pushing bearings out of a bike case. He forgot to remove some retainers, and it was powerful enough that you just can't tell you're breaking things. That's good and bad.
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Aug 3, 2015 02:44
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Stupid question: I bought a new trolley jack and the handle doesn't grip the release valve properly. The cross section is a half-hearted '8' Should I just take a BFH a blunt screwdriver and make it a proper '8' or is there a better shape for it to be?
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Aug 4, 2015 17:35
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Motronic posted:The first use of my 20 ton was a friend pushing bearings out of a bike case. He forgot to remove some retainers, and it was powerful enough that you just can't tell you're breaking things. It's really easy to explode a u-joint cap in these things too. Try it sometime!
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Aug 4, 2015 17:39
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Tommychu posted:Got this one:http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00O9W4BDM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A16JJI2I7Z1ZPQ and will post trip report. Trip report: they're good. Spot-to-distance appears to be a bit tighter than the diagram on the side suggests, and I have no way of verifying accuracy but I don't need dead-on measurements. Toggleable laser and backlight are sweet. Shipped from Zurich which is kind of odd, as the thing is about as Guangzhou as it gets. Also lol at the ironsights they put on this thing, they're way the hell out. Sweet little tool, go buy one.
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Aug 4, 2015 20:40
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Tommychu posted:Trip report: they're good. Spot-to-distance appears to be a bit tighter than the diagram on the side suggests, and I have no way of verifying accuracy but I don't need dead-on measurements. Toggleable laser and backlight are sweet. Shipped from Zurich which is kind of odd, as the thing is about as Guangzhou as it gets. Also lol at the ironsights they put on this thing, they're way the hell out. Sweet little tool, go buy one. I bought one of these when you first suggested it and it's been great, I use it at work all the time to check pump motor temps and such. For the price I'm blown away.
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Aug 4, 2015 20:49
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Terrible Robot posted:I bought one of these when you first suggested it and it's been great, I use it at work all the time to check pump motor temps and such. For the price I'm blown away. Yeah, I've had a super cheap dealxtreme one for years, and it gets used at least once a day, usually in the kitchen. Probably the most used tool I've ever owned, and every time I check it's within 1C of my Thermapen. It's amazing how many uses you find for one of these once you get it. Fridge/freezer temps, heating baby formula, perfect griddle temp for pancakes, finding a bad wheel bearing, hotspots inside a PC, drafts around windows/doors, the list never ends. When you sit down to think about it, so many things have failure modes that involve temperature, I don't understand why I waited so long to get one. Point, click, temp.
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Aug 5, 2015 04:10
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For servicing AC, I was looking at picking up a set of AC manifold gauges and a vacuum pump to refill/evacuate the system and check for basic leaks. Does anyone have any particular recommendations on what to buy?
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Aug 5, 2015 04:30
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OSU_Matthew posted:For servicing AC, I was looking at picking up a set of AC manifold gauges and a vacuum pump to refill/evacuate the system and check for basic leaks. Does anyone have any particular recommendations on what to buy? Try the AC thread? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944
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Aug 5, 2015 06:22
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Brigdh posted:Try the AC thread? Thanks! OP answered my questions. That's what I get for not venturing outside my bookmarks 
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Aug 5, 2015 22:00
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I can't think of any other thread to put this and I haven't found any good review sites: I'm needing a new pair of work boots/shoes. I work in a shop, concrete floors. I'd like them to be light and comfortable. Also important is that they be oil resistant and breathe well. My budget is up to 300$ or so, unless more gets me significantly better footwear. Fashion isn't super important, but if it matches dark blue and grey work clothes, that doesn't hurt either  also, I live in Canada, for what it's worth.Thanks! Edit: it'd also be nice if they weren't awful to drive in. I'm an auto tech, so I'm constantly test-driving cars. Frank Dillinger fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 01:59
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Gonna give you my standard recommendation: Carolina boots.
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Aug 6, 2015 02:33
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Motronic posted:Gonna give you my standard recommendation: Carolina boots. This. I am on my 3rd pair of Carolinas in about 8 years and I wear them 6 days a week, The logger boots are a bit heavier, but I prefer them because I do a fair bit of work off ladders and the higher heel lets me lock on to the rungs a little better.I work in refineries, commercial, and industrial facilities full of oily puddles, steel grating, up and down ladders, and on concrete floors covered with metal grinding dust and the soles hold up extremely well. Cannot recommend them enough, plus most of their stuff is made in the USA!
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Aug 6, 2015 02:38
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Hey, cool, looks like Carolina has a narrow foot option, which is great for me because I have clown feet.
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Aug 6, 2015 03:07
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I just broke the cardinal rule of toolbuying and got an 8 gallon Harbor Freight air compressor. This one: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-69667.html It's for my hackerspace, and we wanted to stay around a hundred bucks. We put oil in it and ran it through the break in (run for 30 minutes with the valves open). Now it looks like the drain valve at the bottom is broken. It won't close. It screws and unscrews, but air just comes out. I have a warranty on the compressor, but it's a minimum of 1.5 hours driving to and from the nearest Harbor Freight. Is there a cheap drain valve I can order on Amazon that I can pop in there? e. Looks like yes. Will this work? http://www.amazon.com/PowerMate-Vx-072-0001RP-Drain-Valve/dp/B008JVM5JG/ref=pd_sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=07HGGDMMQ2WA4XACYYQE Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 05:08
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Frank Dillinger posted:I can't think of any other thread to put this and I haven't found any good review sites: I'm needing a new pair of work boots/shoes. I work in a shop, concrete floors. I'd like them to be light and comfortable. Also important is that they be oil resistant and breathe well. My budget is up to 300$ or so, unless more gets me significantly better footwear. Fashion isn't super important, but if it matches dark blue and grey work clothes, that doesn't hurt either I'm going to recommend my standard: Red Wing. Go to an actual store and have them measure your feet and try them on. I've spent several hours in my local store, trying on every pair of steel toe boots. I've been wearing the same style (2226) for almost a decade, I'm on pair #3 & #4. They get soaked in salt water and get worn, on average, 16 hours a day. Combined with a Peet boot dryer, they last a long time.
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Aug 6, 2015 13:23
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Safety Dance posted:I just broke the cardinal rule of toolbuying and got an 8 gallon Harbor Freight air compressor. This one: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-69667.html The first thing I do when I get a new compressor is take off the drain cock and throw it away. They are hard to reach and get stuck all the time. I put a brass elbow in place of it with a brass nipple as long as it takes to get to the outside of the tank, then a ball valve. This makes it so easy to drain that you can do it every time you're done using it. You probably won't want to in a smaller portable one like that, but I made a little pvc manifold that goes through the wall that mine is hooked into so it just shoots outside.
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Aug 6, 2015 13:37
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OSU_Matthew posted:Shop presses--is harbor freight the way to go here? Is it also worthwhile to spend an extra hundred bucks and get a 20 ton H frame press vs 12 ton A frame? Or is a bench top 6 ton press good enough for most things? The 12 ton H frame is decent too. But if those are the choices get the 20 ton.
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Aug 6, 2015 13:50
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tonedef131 posted:The first thing I do when I get a new compressor is take off the drain cock and throw it away. They are hard to reach and get stuck all the time. I put a brass elbow in place of it with a brass nipple as long as it takes to get to the outside of the tank, then a ball valve. This makes it so easy to drain that you can do it every time you're done using it. This is a good idea, but I'd rather not have a little brass lever sticking out of the bottom of the portable compressor, just begging to get caught on something and crack the tank.
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Aug 6, 2015 15:56
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Safety Dance posted:This is a good idea, but I'd rather not have a little brass lever sticking out of the bottom of the portable compressor, just begging to get caught on something and crack the tank. This is an HF compressor we're talking about, but in that scenario it's really unlikely that the tank would crack instead of the brass fitting. 
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Aug 6, 2015 16:38
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sharkytm posted:I'm going to recommend my standard: Red Wing. Go to an actual store and have them measure your feet and try them on. I've spent several hours in my local store, trying on every pair of steel toe boots. I've been wearing the same style (2226) for almost a decade, I'm on pair #3 & #4. They get soaked in salt water and get worn, on average, 16 hours a day. Combined with a Peet boot dryer, they last a long time. Gonna second the Red Wings recommendation. I've had my pair out in the oil fields for ~8 months and also use them for motorcycling and they still look almost new when they're cleaned up. Super comfortable as well, even when it's really cold or hot out.
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Aug 6, 2015 20:11
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Is there a general guideline below which you go from calling out ft-lb values to in-lb values? I've been switching to in-lb below 10 ft-lb, but am wondering if that's a tad too low. My 3/8" HF torque wrench goes down to 5 ft-lb (and I wouldn't trust it down that low) and my 1/4" one goes up to 200 in-lb (16.7 ft-lb). Makes me think I should move the cutoff point to around 13-15 ft-lb. EDIT: Basically, I don't want to force the mechanics to convert between the values. Uthor fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 20:27
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Medicinal Penguin posted:Gonna second the Red Wings recommendation. I've had my pair out in the oil fields for ~8 months and also use them for motorcycling and they still look almost new when they're cleaned up. Super comfortable as well, even when it's really cold or hot out. My current boots are Red Wings, but I have used Carolina's before too. Both are excellent boots. You have to try both and see which one you like. Though I will go on the record my Red Wings leather has held up better, but my Carolina's soles held up a little better. Both are excellent choices.
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Aug 6, 2015 20:53
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Uthor posted:Is there a general guideline below which you go from calling out ft-lb values to in-lb values? I've been switching to in-lb below 10 ft-lb, but am wondering if that's a tad too low. I would go with one of three values: - whenever you could feasibly use a 1/4 drive torque wrench / sockets, use in-lb - whenever your small in-lb torque wrench is rated to, use in-lb, everything above that is ft-lb - whatever gives you a reasonable margin of error. So like, less than 10% or less than 5% or whatever your spec is. A 10% margin of error on an in-lb wrench would give you ~8.33 ft-lbs as the switchover point, 5% would be ~16.7 ft-lbs (1 in-lb out of 200 in-lb = 5%), since the 1/4 drive in-lb torque wrench goes to 200 in-lb (16.7 ft-lb) you should be getting ~5% accuracy at that point if it's got a tick for every in-lb on the gauge. These may all point towards roughly the same switchover point at which point I would say spec the stuff for the in-lb torque wrench in in-lbs and the stuff for the ft-lb torque wrenches in ft-lbs.
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Aug 6, 2015 22:13
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Well, this is for a customer, so I don't know what their exact tools are and I can't just ask the mechanic. And this specific instance is for tube ends (I think 19mm hex nuts), so I doubly don't know what tool they're going to use! And, and all the numbers the manufacturer specified were Nm and I'm converting to ft-lb/in-lb (and listing both) to so the mechanics don't have to convert. Maybe I'll ask the customer to see if it makes sense with their tools.
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Aug 6, 2015 22:28
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I'd switch at 120 inch-lbs / 10 foot-lbs because it's usually not at the top or bottom of any wrench and 10 times 12 is the simplest mental math in the typical overlap range.
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Aug 6, 2015 23:14
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I bought one of the laser thermometers mentioned in this thread from Amazon the other day. The thermometer arrived today, and my wife could not resist playing with it. She called me on my way home from school to let me know that Peanut the dog's butthole is two degrees warmer than Bella the dog's butthole.
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Aug 7, 2015 01:57
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You married well.
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Aug 7, 2015 02:00
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Seriously thinking about picking up one of those Flir infrared cameras for work. Anyone have one? Thoughts?
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Aug 7, 2015 02:23
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iForge posted:Seriously thinking about picking up one of those Flir infrared cameras for work. Anyone have one? Thoughts? I bought an E8 because they were on "sale" and it is awesome. I use it to check heat trace in the winter because when it is -35ｰC you can't tell if the 3ｰC heat trace is on, everything is cold. Shows up like a light bulb in thermal and you just point it in that general direction. As others have said, get the E4 and hack it. I didn't know about that part. Good thing they pay me too well up in the middle of nowhere.
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Aug 7, 2015 03:29
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DocCynical posted:I bought an E8 because they were on "sale" and it is awesome. I use it to check heat trace in the winter because when it is -35ｰC you can't tell if the 3ｰC heat trace is on, everything is cold. Shows up like a light bulb in thermal and you just point it in that general direction. Yeah the E4 is a bit out of the range of what I would spend on something like that. I was looking more at the TG165 I can get it for $300.
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Aug 7, 2015 03:58
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iForge posted:Seriously thinking about picking up one of those Flir infrared cameras for work. Anyone have one? Thoughts? I just bought an E6 for work and an E4 for home. The E6 has been the greatest work tool I have bought. Most of our process involves heating and cooling, and I have been able to identify small issues with ovens and chillers that made big impacts on the final product. My only regret was not getting a model that can read higher temps. At home, I haven't used it much. My house has like zero insulation (built in 1930), and I am hoping to track down some big problems this winter. Even with the price of propane so low I suspect it will pay for itself. Haven't hacked it yet either.
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Aug 7, 2015 04:00
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BrokenKnucklez posted:My current boots are Red Wings, but I have used Carolina's before too. Both are excellent boots. You have to try both and see which one you like. Though I will go on the record my Red Wings leather has held up better, but my Carolina's soles held up a little better. I don't know what the Carolina warranty is, but Red Wing has a lifetime warranty on the stitching and laces. Cheaper boots that I've worn started coming apart at the seams after ~6 months and were basically unwearable by about a year, so that's what sold it for me. The lady I bought them from said that she almost never has people coming in to claim it, though, which is reassuring. Another vote for Red Wing. Uthor posted:Well, this is for a customer, so I don't know what their exact tools are and I can't just ask the mechanic. I can't imagine a situation where a 19mm nut would be torqued so loosely as to need to be measured in inch pounds. Doubly so on a tube which presumably holds pressure.
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Aug 7, 2015 04:42
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Frank Dillinger posted:I can't think of any other thread to put this and I haven't found any good review sites: I'm needing a new pair of work boots/shoes. I work in a shop, concrete floors. I'd like them to be light and comfortable. Also important is that they be oil resistant and breathe well. My budget is up to 300$ or so, unless more gets me significantly better footwear. Fashion isn't super important, but if it matches dark blue and grey work clothes, that doesn't hurt either Fellow tech here and I bought a pair of Keens for 200 and never looked back. They form to your foot so they are super comfortable, I got the insulated ones cause Wisconsin, and they are the warmest boots i have ever had including snowboard boots.
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Aug 7, 2015 04:44
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What about inserts for boots? I'd like to get some Redwing heat moldable insoles, but the price is holding me back.
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Aug 7, 2015 05:13
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EKDS5k posted:I can't imagine a situation where a 19mm nut would be torqued so loosely as to need to be measured in inch pounds. Doubly so on a tube which presumably holds pressure. High pressure fuel lines. Manufacturer calls for 15Nm (11ft-lb, 133in-lb) plus 60 degrees of rotation. I dunno, I didn't come up with those values. Maybe the Germans define meters differently?
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Aug 7, 2015 05:29
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Uthor posted:High pressure fuel lines. Manufacturer calls for 15Nm (11ft-lb, 133in-lb) plus 60 degrees of rotation. I dunno, I didn't come up with those values. Maybe the Germans define meters differently? The torque part of a torque and turn procedure doesn't need to be super tight, just tight enough to be consistent so that makes sense.
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Aug 7, 2015 05:53
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Uthor posted:High pressure fuel lines. Manufacturer calls for 15Nm (11ft-lb, 133in-lb) plus 60 degrees of rotation. I dunno, I didn't come up with those values. Maybe the Germans define meters differently? Are you talking about the cam driven fuel pump on a VW? Just tighten that poo poo up snug so it doesn't leak. Your not gonna get any accuracy with a HF wrench anyway. If you wanna be serious about torquing down poo poo read this. http://user.xmission.com/~kd7olf/torque.html
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Aug 7, 2015 06:41
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