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Since I don't have a chamber vac and I like using soy sauce in marinades, I bought some powdered soy sauce. Anybody ever use this stuff? If so, any advice?
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Aug 15, 2015 04:30
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I've got a question for the experienced vizzlers in here: Is it possible to sous vide vegetables (Carrots, potatos, onions, etc.) until the fibers holding them together break down? The collagen or cellulose or whatever it's called? If so, what time and temp would I need to do it?
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Aug 18, 2015 03:08
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Number 1 Sexy Dad posted:Since I don't have a chamber vac and I like using soy sauce in marinades, I bought some powdered soy sauce. Anybody ever use this stuff? If so, any advice? I just freeze marinades I want to vac seal.
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Aug 18, 2015 04:17
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Captain Bravo posted:I've got a question for the experienced vizzlers in here: Is it possible to sous vide vegetables (Carrots, potatos, onions, etc.) until the fibers holding them together break down? The collagen or cellulose or whatever it's called? If so, what time and temp would I need to do it? Typically carrots are considered one of the few vegetables worth using (http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/06/how-to-sous-vide-carrots-vegetables.html), but it's also good for pre treating sweet potatoes for well, sweeter sweet potatoes(http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/11/food-lab-sweet-potatoes-mashed-science-not-sugar-thanksgiving.html) That being said I've heard some people swear by it for root vegetables in general, YMMV.
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Aug 18, 2015 04:42
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Thanks! Edit: So, according to the article, the pectin in veggies is what you want to break down? So if I set my Sous Vide for 85 degrees, tossed a bag of onions, carrots, and potatoes in there, and left it for a few hours they should semi-gelatinize? Captain Bravo fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 05:04
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Trip report on the $30 PID (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1T3LOAKNUUM9N) Used a ~700w Toastmaster Brunch pan (an electric pan) and a small pan filled with water.Overall very happy with it, cooked an egg at 127 F( I think, I just picked an egg time from that one picture chart), It cracked and the white got soggy, but the yolk was what I expected. The system allows to modify a lot of parameters to assist in making a stable temp, but it's all optional. You just have to set temp and tell it if it's heating or cooling mode. The temp wire is hard to position so it doesn't touch the pan, the universal plug is a bit fiddly with a standard american two-pronged thin/fat plug, and the controls are a bit confusing and annoying to use (you have to hold UP when temp setting from 30 deg F to 100-150 deg F, which takes a long time). Will try a small steak, or perhaps a burger next.
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Aug 18, 2015 19:06
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I have a couple 1/2 inch thick salmon fillets I want to vizzle. Time and temp? I like my salmon rare, like nigiri, but my wife likes hers a little more done. I'm going to be adding some thin sliced lemon. Do I salt before or after they're cooked?
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Aug 18, 2015 20:58
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I like to brine instead of salt, and adjust after if necessary. 122-125f for 20-30 minutes is generally all I do, with a quick sear after to crisp the skin.
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Aug 18, 2015 21:02
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dutchbstrd posted:I found this fancy store in the mission that had a sansaire on the shelf. It was this fancy grocery store I think on Folsom between 20-23rd streets. Sorry I can't be more descriptive but I just saw the place on a walk one day. Well poo poo. I appreciate your very kind post, but I didn't check back here in time... still, you're awesome and thank you.
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Aug 18, 2015 23:07
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Captain Bravo posted:Thanks! I guess? If you call the state of cooked gelatinized. I haven't messed with vegetables yet, too busy playing with eggs, meat, and chocolate stuff.
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Aug 18, 2015 23:19
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uPen posted:I just freeze marinades I want to vac seal. I tried to freeze some soy sauce but I guess it's too salty. Did some 24 hour spareribs at 138F. Threw under the broiler to brown.  Texture of the meat was great except none of the fat rendered. It was soft enough to eat through but still sort of gross/alien. Also, I used preseasoned stuff. Half rack each of Applewood and Cherrywood Chipotle, Kroger brand. Flavor-wise, the ribs were like bone-in hot dogs. I assume they were nitrate-packed. Will definitely try again with regular ribs from the butcher at a higher temp. Saw another recipe for 48h 148. I think I'll try 24 h at 148.
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Aug 20, 2015 00:45
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For that much meat, especially with bones in, I wouldn't go less than 36 hours, personally, and probably more like 48. I would heed their recommendation.
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Aug 20, 2015 23:07
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For any tougher cut of meat, you should be doing at leas 48hr at temps below 150F
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Aug 21, 2015 00:07
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Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll try again next week
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Aug 21, 2015 00:17
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:For any tougher cut of meat, you should be doing at leas 48hr at temps below 150F I've had some real problems with making mushy roasts with sous vide, I don't understand what I could be doing wrong. E.g. Eye of round, 48 hours at 135 - Mushy, somewhat dry beef.
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Aug 21, 2015 01:28
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Did you season or marinate beforehand? How much?
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Aug 21, 2015 02:02
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Steve Yun posted:Did you season or marinate beforehand? How much? I used pre-seasoned packages. The flavor was pretty awful. It really tasted like hot dogs. I'll do my own seasoning next time for sure.
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Aug 21, 2015 02:42
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Number 1 Sexy Dad posted:I used pre-seasoned packages. The flavor was pretty awful. It really tasted like hot dogs. I'll do my own seasoning next time for sure. Yeah, there's your problem.
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Aug 21, 2015 03:25
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every time i do chicken with bones/skin sous vide, the meat ends up pink, even if it's very clearly been cooked thoroughly at 145 or 150. is this normal? edit: its a pretty light pink and the texture is cooked Verviticus fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 05:53
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baquerd posted:I've had some real problems with making mushy roasts with sous vide, I don't understand what I could be doing wrong. Try eye of round at 131 for 30 hours or so
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Aug 21, 2015 10:03
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Verviticus posted:every time i do chicken with bones/skin sous vide, the meat ends up pink, even if it's very clearly been cooked thoroughly at 145 or 150. is this normal? Yeah, you're good
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Aug 21, 2015 10:27
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Verviticus posted:every time i do chicken with bones/skin sous vide, the meat ends up pink, even if it's very clearly been cooked thoroughly at 145 or 150. is this normal? Pink doesn't matter. If you reach cooked temp, and maintain it long enough to pasteurize, you're good to go. Simple as that. If you don't enjoy the texture/flavor at that temp, go a little higher until you get something you're more comfortable with. But don't panic about a little color in your chicken.
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Aug 22, 2015 04:41
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One of my chicken thigh bags had a small puncture in it, so the juice ended up mixing and the water getting in. Is that unsafe to eat or just bad tasting?
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Aug 23, 2015 01:43
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Shouldn't be unsafe so long as your water wasn't tainted in some way. I'd give your circulator a VERY thorough cleaning, though.
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Aug 23, 2015 02:14
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G-Prime posted:Shouldn't be unsafe so long as your water wasn't tainted in some way. I'd give your circulator a VERY thorough cleaning, though. Yeah, since I was lazy and used hot water from the tap (from a water heater tank), I didn't take any chances and threw it away. Oh well. For what it's worth, to continue the discussion from a few pages back... I've attempted the chicken thigh recipe a few times now, and the best results for preserving the skin came from thighs that had been iced and rested in the fridge for 3 days. The skin still ended up sticking to my enameled cast iron pan, though -- I think I'll try non-stick and sacrifice a bit of deglazing for the pan sauce.
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Aug 23, 2015 15:00
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I've always used a non-stick with chicken thighs. That amazingly crispy skin is better than any pan sauce
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Aug 23, 2015 17:03
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I was sent over here from the electronics thread, rightly so I think. Sort of an odd question and I am not trying to sous vide anything. I am basically looking for a low cost PID controller recommendation: I have a lot of firewood, and some of it is actually nice wood that I could use for small woodworking projects. The problem is that there are a bunch of powderpost beetles that live in my wood pile, and I would need to kill any that might be present in a given piece of wood before I could use it for woodworking. This can be reliably accomplished by heating the wood to 130 F for 4 hours. I am planning to make a small box out of foam insulation board, and am looking for a low cost solution to bring the interior up to 130 and hold it there until I shut it off. I was thinking that a few light bulbs might put out enough heat, but then I would need some kind of PID controller to turn them on and off as needed to maintain temp. Is there any kind of off the shelf device I can use for this? Any idea if a few light bulbs could put out enough heat to warm maybe 4-6 cubic feet of well insulated space to 130 F?
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Aug 25, 2015 16:32
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The nice thing about (most) PIDs is that they scale to whatever you need, the limitation is really your heat generator. You could probably use a $100 Dorkfood PID. I kinda doubt lightbulbs would get up to 130F. If they don't work, maybe try a portable electric stove?
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Aug 25, 2015 16:54
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Steve Yun posted:The nice thing about (most) PIDs is that they scale to whatever you need, the limitation is really your heat generator. You could probably use a $100 Dorkfood PID. You'd be surprised what a couple of 100W incandescents will put out. about 98W of heat http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/html/watts-heat-lights-lamp-heat-output.html
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Aug 25, 2015 16:57
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E: ^^^^ that's just ridiculousSteve Yun posted:The nice thing about (most) PIDs is that they scale to whatever you need, the limitation is really your heat generator. You could probably use a $100 Dorkfood PID. From looking at http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/html/watts-heat-lights-lamp-heat-output.html I think it's doable. Halogen bulbs get hot!
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Aug 25, 2015 17:01
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So if I just pick up a PID controller like the $30 one mentioned further up this page, I should be able to set a temp on the display, and walk away from it for a while? Assuming that my heat source (light bulb or otherwise) puts out enough heat, and that my box is insulated well enough, it will hit and roughly hold my temperature until I shut it off? I'm not trying to eat anything, I am just trying to kill bugs, so less precision is probably not a big deal. I expect that the first few times I mess with it I will crack the wood from rapid drying, but I'll have to see how it goes. I will probably ultimately need to bring it up to 100F for a while, then 115F, and only then up to 130F for 4 hours, but I am not sure at this point. If that is a manual process of changing the temp on the unit, that's fine.
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Aug 25, 2015 17:06
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armorer posted:So if I just pick up a PID controller like the $30 one mentioned further up this page, I should be able to set a temp on the display, and walk away from it for a while? Assuming that my heat source (light bulb or otherwise) puts out enough heat, and that my box is insulated well enough, it will hit and roughly hold my temperature until I shut it off? Basically, yeah. I recommended the $100 one under the assumption that you'd be using an electric portable stove but if you're using lightbulbs the $30 PID should do fine Steve Yun fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 17:13
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This is probably a really dumb question, but why can't you bring a few chunks of firewood inside and put them in your oven?
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Aug 25, 2015 17:18
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:This is probably a really dumb question, but why can't you bring a few chunks of firewood inside and put them in your oven? Not a dumb question, that was actually my first idea. There are two problems really. First, my oven's lowest temperature is 170, and it gets there very fast. That will definitely result in the wood cracking beyond usability. The second problem is that it might smell unpleasant, and I don't want to make my oven and kitchen smell.
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Aug 25, 2015 17:22
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Steve Yun posted:The nice thing about (most) PIDs is that they scale to whatever you need, the limitation is really your heat generator. You could probably use a $100 Dorkfood PID. Or a hotplate. Another issue with lightbulbs is the filament resistance is highly temperature-dependent. So when you turn a bulb on, there's a big rush of current through the low-resistance filament until it heats up to the design temperature where its resistance is about 15x higher; tuning a PID to maintain a specific temperature when the heat source is so highly nonlinear whenever it turns on might be tricky, and also probably result in a lot of power cycling, which means the bulbs are going to burn out rapidly. Something with more thermal inertia like a hotplate is probably way easier, you'd just need to tune the PID to be overdamped because it's going to be much faster bringing the temperature up than it will be to bring it down. toplitzin posted:about 98W of heat Put them in a closed box and it's closer to 100W of heat.
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Aug 25, 2015 17:30
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Phanatic posted:Put them in a closed box and it's closer to 100W of heat. How does putting them in a box change the power output? Asking in earnest, this stuff is not my strong suit.
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Aug 25, 2015 18:10
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At work, we use a heat lamp in an old refrigerator as a burn-in chamber. It is using a Rancho temp controller, but really pretty much anything will work. It holds temp +/- 2 degrees at 180F. The heat lamp has a hot spot, I think for the wood you would be fine with everything in front of the lamp, temp probe included. You don't need to worry about the lamp changing resistance as it heats up, PID for this type of thing is super simple and slow. e: If you want to make it nicer, you could hide the lamp to avoid the hotspot being on the wood and add a fan to move the air around the box. taqueso fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 18:11
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Subjunctive posted:How does putting them in a box change the power output? Asking in earnest, this stuff is not my strong suit. It doesn't. The efficiency rating of a light bulb is how much of the input power is produced as visible light, but essentially all of every light bulb's power output will eventually end up as heat. The visible light will ultimately be absorbed by something, which absorption will, unless something unusual happens, result in the absorbing object getting hotter by an amount of heat energy equal to the amount of energy represented by the light. If you put the bulb in a box, there's nothing for the bulb to illuminate but the box and its contents, so it will all be heat contained by the box (excepting whatever is carried away from the box itself by radiation, etc.). When it's stated that an incandescent wastes 98 Watts of power as heat out of the 100 Watts fed to it, the point is that the 98 Watts (I thought it was more like 95, but whatever) never take the form of visible light and therefore never do useful work (unless you want the heat!). This will generally be true for machines, ignoring the usual exceptions, like plants storing chemical energy from received light and such. Sir Kodiak fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 19:04
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taqueso posted:At work, we use a heat lamp in an old refrigerator as a burn-in chamber. It is using a Rancho temp controller, but really pretty much anything will work. It holds temp +/- 2 degrees at 180F. The heat lamp has a hot spot, I think for the wood you would be fine with everything in front of the lamp, temp probe included. Perfect! This is almost exactly what I was hoping to do, except I'll be building an insulated box from an extra sheet of 2" foam insulation. +/- 2 degrees is more than accurate enough for my purposes. I will probably opt for a cheaper controller since I think the Rancho one is overkill. My box will be comparable in interior size to an old fridge, smaller most likely, so if a heat lamp and fan works in your setup it should work fine in mine.
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Aug 25, 2015 20:30
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thegoat posted:I've always used a non-stick with chicken thighs. That amazingly crispy skin is better than any pan sauce Yeah, I was hoping I could have both -- in his sous vide chicken thigh primer, Kenji sure makes it sound easy to keep the skin intact in cast iron. But I think I'll have to admit that for us mere mortals, non-stick is necessary to allow that to happen. How long would sous-vide meat last outside of the fridge or, at best, in a cooler? I'm going on a short, one night canoe camping trip this weekend. If it could last at least the first day, I'm thinking some vizzled steaks or chicken breasts would be fun to finish over a campfire on the evening.
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Aug 26, 2015 00:56
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