|
AVeryLargeRadish posted:These parts ought to be fine for you: Oh, any by the way - if I get the CPU and fan first, will they still be okay to use the current PSU for a week or two? Hell, even just getting the CPU first, and the other two later? Just gotta order them in, it seems. ASIC v Danny Bro fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Sep 3, 2015 |
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 12:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 15:30 |
|
ASIC v Danny Bro posted:Oh, any by the way - if I get the CPU and fan first, will they still be okay to use the current PSU for a week or two? Hell, even just getting the CPU first, and the other two later? While it's probably ok I'd just wait until I had all the parts and do the upgrade in one go, better safe than sorry and all that.
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 12:28
|
|
|
Im guessing that using a mounting bracket for a cpu cooler thats showing signs of corrotion is a no go. drat everything else on the cooler looks fine, gently caress this constant humidity. Any recomendation for a cooler that at least has some form of protection against this? Like zinc coating or something like that? Or at the very least something that isnt as troublesome to install than the 212 series, so that I can take it appart every few months to lubricate it. Cao Ni Ma fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Sep 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 12:49
|
|
|
Marinmo posted:Not sure how much experience people have with it, but going to bite the bullet anyway. I'm looking to build a silent SFF PC, but I'm not so sure of which cooling route to go. I've ordered a Ncase M1, which limits my options quite a lot. The M1 seems to heavily favour liquid cooling, and I'm no stranger to dropping cash to some extent, however, a full-blown custom setup seems a bit excessive to me currently. Instead, I'm debating using a Corsair H105 for graphic card cooling (together with NZXT Kraken G10) and a H100i GTX for CPU cooling. My thoughts are to use silent low-rpm radiator fans on the CPU in a push configuration, while using the same but in pull for the graphics card. However, I'm unsure of just how silent an AIO solution would be; would it make more sense to just use an air cooler for the CPU and utilize the side bracket of the M1 for silent case fans? AIO cooling for the graphics card seems like a no-brainer; while louder at idle it's also surely a lot quieter at load, no?  Yes, AIO cooling for a graphics card appears to be the only way to keep them really quiet at a high load since no graphics card's default cooler can match the heat removal capability of dual 120mm or dual 140mm fans, and yes it will technically be louder at idle since graphics cards turn off their fans at idle now. Anyway I can't tell you if AIOs will be quiet enough for you, as I understand it 280mm AIOs are as quiet as you can make any cooling for very hot or overclocked CPUs and GPUs under load because of the heat removal potential of dual 140mm fans, but are not as quiet as a regular air cooler at idle since they have some circulation noise and (usually?) don't/can't spin their fans down. Assepoester fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Sep 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 13:13
|
|
|
My laptop hard drive is not doing well. I have a Sony VAIO SVT131A11L, and a replacement drive is available on Amazon. If I'm going to replace it, I would rather go bigger and better or at least bigger. Would http://www.amazon.com/WD-AV-25-TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B007PFQ23C/ or http://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-Mobile-Hard-Drive/dp/B005DVJJWQ/ work and is there a reason they are awful? I basically use Google Chrome, Microsoft Office, and Hearthstone.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 14:15
|
|
|
JesustheDarkLord posted:My laptop hard drive is not doing well. I have a Sony VAIO SVT131A11L, and a replacement drive is available on Amazon. If I'm going to replace it, I would rather go bigger and better or at least bigger. Would http://www.amazon.com/WD-AV-25-TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B007PFQ23C/ or http://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-Mobile-Hard-Drive/dp/B005DVJJWQ/ work and is there a reason they are awful? I basically use Google Chrome, Microsoft Office, and Hearthstone. You should probably just get an SSD...
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 14:34
|
|
|
PCPartPicker needs an option to limit your shopping list to 2 or 3 vendors for ease of things like organizing returns and coordinating shipping (you may as well include 1 as an option but I figured that was covered by the per-merchant breakdown).
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 18:27
|
|
|
Sir Unimaginative posted:PCPartPicker needs an option to limit your shopping list to 2 or 3 vendors for ease of things like organizing returns and coordinating shipping (you may as well include 1 as an option but I figured that was covered by the per-merchant breakdown). Make an account, click on your username, remove vendors you don't care about from the list. Profit.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 19:00
|
|
|
Mu Zeta posted:Does anyone have an Intel Nuc? I'm interested in getting a second backup computer and the 2015 i5 version is only $330 on Amazon. I just need to supply my own SSD and RAM which shouldn't cost more than $150. Just keep in mind there's two models of the i5 Broadwell NUC. One is thicker and supports a 2.5" drive, one is twice as thin but only accepts M.2 I bought 5 of them for a work give away so I can at least confirm 100% that the Samsung 850 Evo M.2 cards work perfectly fine on them. You pay a slight premium on both the drive and the NUC, but it is even more pocket-sized, whatever that's worth to you. Edit: NUC5i5RYK is the thin model, NUC5i5RYH is the fat model.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 19:14
|
|
|
JesustheDarkLord posted:My laptop hard drive is not doing well. I have a Sony VAIO SVT131A11L, and a replacement drive is available on Amazon. If I'm going to replace it, I would rather go bigger and better or at least bigger. Would http://www.amazon.com/WD-AV-25-TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B007PFQ23C/ or http://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-Mobile-Hard-Drive/dp/B005DVJJWQ/ work and is there a reason they are awful? I basically use Google Chrome, Microsoft Office, and Hearthstone. You can use any 2.5 inch drive. Get a 250 gig Samsung 850 EVO SSD for $90ish
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 20:12
|
|
Cat Army 
|
Some guy in eBay has a bunch of refurb NUCs with the 4200u with best offer bidding. Apparently some slickdealers got it for $150, but the guy has been rejecting $150 recently. Still, you could give it a shot.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 20:20
|
|
|
I'm in such a weird purgatory right now. I've been picking up computer parts as they go on sale and while I'm over halfway done (price-wise) with my build, it's still going to be a bit before I'm able to physically construct my computer. Here's the list: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($67.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($82.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($170.99 @ NCIX US) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card (Purchased For $374.98) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $44.19) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $88.79) Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($27.00 @ SuperBiiz) Case Fan: Prolimatech PRO-BV14 87.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($9.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: LG 34UM95-P 60Hz 34.0" Monitor (Purchased For $717.59) Other: XXL Gaming Mat (Purchased For $19.99) Total: $2050.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-03 15:17 EDT-0400 I have $840 yet to be purchased (The Cryorig cooler isn't showing because newegg is out of stock), I have a brother-in-law who lives down the street from a Micro Center so I'll be able to get my processor for less, and everything else is saving maybe 5 bucks here and there. I am holding out on a bit of hope that maybe I'll get a coupon from EVGA when I register my 980 tonight and I can use that to get a half off power supply from them (G2). The build started at nearly $3k and through the good fortune of keeping up on deals and making "concessions" on some parts (300 less for a b-stock 980 vs a new 980 ti, I'll take it). I have considered dropping down to a 250 SSD but I can't justify it when I can just save up a bit longer for a much more robust 500. On the plus side, the Monitor is glorious and I'm quite happy to have it hooked up to my laptop for the time being.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 20:21
|
|
|
I'd be cautious about going about the process too gradually. You can find reviews and stories from pissed off folks who buy a component, then sit on it for months for whatever reason only to find out they have a dud and are outside of a retailer's return policy or whatever, then go a leave a 1 star review like a dumbass. So make sure you have a way to check that stuff is working soon after you get it. There's always the manufacturer's warranty and RMA if it's actually defective, but considering that Newegg and Amazon supply a free shipping label for defective merch it's easier to get them to handle it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 21:54
|
|
|
utonium posted:I'd be cautious about going about the process too gradually. You can find reviews and stories from pissed off folks who buy a component, then sit on it for months for whatever reason only to find out they have a dud and are outside of a retailer's return policy or whatever, then go a leave a 1 star review like a dumbass. So make sure you have a way to check that stuff is working soon after you get it. There's always the manufacturer's warranty and RMA if it's actually defective, but considering that Newegg and Amazon supply a free shipping label for defective merch it's easier to get them to handle it. The only part I'm concerned with is the video card, everything else will be all at once at this point just because none of it goes on sale much.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 21:59
|
|
|
VulgarandStupid posted:Some guy in eBay has a bunch of refurb NUCs with the 4200u with best offer bidding. Apparently some slickdealers got it for $150, but the guy has been rejecting $150 recently. Still, you could give it a shot. He took $160 no problem, thanks for the tip.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 22:11
|
|
|
ColHannibal posted:I would not dip below 500gb for the sad boot drive. Keep with the 850evo but get the 500gb model for not much more. Not really necessary at all, I've got a Crucial MX100 256GB as my main drive & with Windows, Photoshop suite, Office & a few other apps it hasn't hit 50% used yet. He could easily even get two 250GB Crucial BX100 drives for a little more than a single 500, they've been selling on Newegg for $80-90 each, sometimes lower with promos.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:He took $160 no problem, thanks for the tip. What did your total with ram and SSD come out to? Around 300?
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 22:26
|
|
|
VulgarandStupid posted:What did your total with ram and SSD come out to? Around 300? I got one of the taller ones with 2.5" bay support, so I'm going to toss in one of those 250GB SanDisk "SSD Plus" for $66, and I got 16GB of RAM for $70 from Newegg just now. So yes, under $300 for i5 NUC + 250GB SSD + 16GB RAM. 16GB because I intend put some CPU-light VMs on it, but need enough RAM for comfort.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
FraudulentEconomics posted:Make an account, click on your username, remove vendors you don't care about from the list. Profit. Not what I meant. Rather, display 'cheapest shopping list made from [two/three] or fewer merchants'. While you can get a shopping list including only two or three just by acknowledging the existence of only two or three, that might not be the least expensive such list available (and can therefore be counterproductive).
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 23:15
|
|
|
I'm in the US. Primary use for this machine will be Gaming and digital Illustration (Photoshop, Corel Painter). Aiming for around $800 budget. For gaming, I don't require dialing things up to the 10/10 maximum or going crazy with downsampling, but I'd like a comfortable experience with the game looking the way it's supposed to look. I would ideally expect stable 40+ FPS performance @ 1080p high or medium-high settings in modern games like Witcher 3, MGS V, or the upcoming Deus Ex. Not interested in overclocking features. As far as professional creative needs, mostly I need it to run Photoshop well for digital painting. I honestly have no clue what hardware components track to what as far as PS performance goes, but I need it to gracefully handle large/complex brushes and tools in projects with many layers (50+), at a reasonable working file size for potential print resolutions( maybe up to ~10k pixels on a side). On my current old machine, particular time wasters are waiting for PS to crunch while saving a large PSD, or mirroring the canvas of a large file. I suspect this is stuff that will largely be covered by gaming hardware and will be helped somewhat just from having a hardware refresh, but again Photoshop performance is a bit of a mystery to me. I pulled these parts largely out of my butt from lightly consulting Tomshardware and what looked good on partpicker, very open to advice. CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($166.95 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($67.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($83.99 @ NCIX US) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.98 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 2GB Dual-X Video Card ($179.99 @ B&H) Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.60 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Micro Center) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $793.77 Scoss fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Sep 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 00:36
|
|
|
Sir Unimaginative posted:Not what I meant. I get what you're saying now, my mistake. Yeah unfortunately I don't think they offer any options like best 3 prices or anything, maybe we ought to suggest that to them heh.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 01:06
|
|
|
Scoss posted:I'm in the US. Primary use for this machine will be Gaming and digital Illustration (Photoshop, Corel Painter). Aiming for around $800 budget. Get an 850 EVO instead for $40 cheaper, put the money into getting a r280x. Don't buy Corsair CX PSUs, and are you sure you really need an optical drive?
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 01:07
|
|
Scoss posted:I'm in the US. Primary use for this machine will be Gaming and digital Illustration (Photoshop, Corel Painter). Aiming for around $800 budget. I tweaked your build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.4 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.90 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($77.99 @ B&H) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($101.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Black Edition Double Dissipation Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($12.99 @ Newegg) Total: $835.80 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-03 19:57 EDT-0400 CPU: I went with a faster one here, mostly because of Photoshop. Cooler: I included a cooler with good performance that is extremely quiet, the stock Intel cooler might not be able to handle the CPU at full load and will be very loud regardless. Motherboard: I left this the same, it's a fine motherboard. Memory: I changed this for something cheaper, an H97 motherboard cannot clock the memory at 1866 anyway so there is no sense in going over 1600. Storage: I changed the SSD for an 850 EVO, it's both better and cheaper than the older 840. Video Card: A big upgrade here, the 280X is much faster than the 270X and has more VRAM which will be important for getting decent frame rates at medium/high in any modern games like TW3. Case: This is one of the best cheap cases on the market, it has a good internal layout, good cooling and good dust filtering. It's not the most quiet case in the world but you have to sacrifice something somewhere with something this cheap. Power Supply: You want to avoid Corsair CX/M PSUs, they have build quality and reliability problems. I replaced this with a better, cheaper PSU that also has higher wattage to handle the 280X. I hope that helps, it's a little over the $800 budget but you gain a lot in both performance and quality for it. Good luck with your build. 
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 01:13
|
|
|
 Recommend quiet and cheap 140mm and 120mm fans. Want to buy Noctuas, but $25 each is tough to swallow. Want to use maybe 2 140s as intake and 1-2 120's for exhaustedit: http://www.ncix.com/detail/fractal-design-silent-series-r3-9b-108094-1021.htm These any good for the money? jeff8472 fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Sep 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 02:43
|
|
|
jeff8472 posted:
Get a four pack of Cougar Turbines, they're always on sale at NCIX and they're pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 02:54
|
|
|
Thank you for the suggestions. I have a Microcenter near me, so it looks like I could pick up an i5-4590 for about $172 after tax, which would help mitigate the cost of bumping up to a R9 280X (I don't suppose there are any online retailers that price match microcenter's in-store prices? I'm spoiled on dodging sales tax for PC parts). Is the stock Intel HSF notoriously lovely or something, to be concerned that it can't handle a chip at stock speeds? I bought an aftermarket CoolerMaster Hyper212+ for my current AMD machine and it ended up being total overkill, so I'm a little leery about unnecessary aftermarket HSF, but if you guys really think so I'll defer to your expertise. I've never done an Intel build. Thanks for the warning on the PSU, I was under the impression that Corsair was solid there. I have a Corsair TX650 in my current machine and I seem to remember it being pretty bona fide when I picked it. It's not a huge issue and it might end up being a luxury that I'll have to pass, but I was hoping to find a modular or semi modular PSU. Are there any good options there in the ~$50 price range?
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 03:11
|
|
|
I have that CPU and that case and it's definitely noticeable, though I'm not sure if it's the CPU fan or the case fans. I can hear it when I have my headphones on with nothing playing, but if I'm listening to music or playing a game I can't hear it at all.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 03:16
|
|
|
If you still have the mounting hardware you can re-use your current cooler. The 4590 will likely have a lower TDP. If not it's not necessary but definitely a quality-of-life-thing - the Intel stock HSF works fine but it can be pretty loud under load, even on the i5 range. Also how old is your PSU?
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 03:18
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:For a non overclocking build you've picked out a lot of parts specifically for overclocking builds like the 4960K and a Z97 motherboard. I'd probably go with an H97 board and an i7-4790K (just for the high clock speeds without OCing) or an i5-4590 depending on budget. Also, the 840 EVO is old and not as good as the newer 850 EVO which is cheaper and will be a better buy at this point. Do not buy a Corsair CX series power supply at all, buy an 80+ gold unit made by seasonic or superflower like XFX, Rosewill CAPSTONE or another good model. Thanks. I just picked the parts that looked good/had the most stars. Would it be worth throwing down the $$$ for the newest batch of Intel processors if I don't plan on overclocking? AVeryLargeRadish posted:On the CPU: i5/7 depends on what sort of stuff you want to do and your budget. An i5 is fine for gaming but some people go for the i7 4790k because it has a 4.4GHz boost clock. This was a while back but I just wanted to say thanks to radish for the help. quote:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Thoughts? reagan fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Sep 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 03:36
|
|
|
I have a 4670 on the stock cooler and it handles it just fine. I mean, if you max out all four cores doing like video encoding or something, it'll get really loud but even then it only peaks at like 73C.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 03:42
|
|
|
grack posted:If you still have the mounting hardware you can re-use your current cooler. The 4590 will likely have a lower TDP. If not it's not necessary but definitely a quality-of-life-thing - the Intel stock HSF works fine but it can be pretty loud under load, even on the i5 range. The TX650 is about 5 years old. I have no clue how long it's intended to last. Cannibalizing parts is something to consider, but I think I generally prefer to leave my previous machine functional as a backup.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 03:47
|
|
|
grack posted:Get a four pack of Cougar Turbines, they're always on sale at NCIX and they're pretty good. Yeah, saw those just after I posted. Thanks. Eventually this computer will be where I want it. (until the next upgrade)
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 03:49
|
|
|
Any suggestions for getting a 6700k in Canada? Everywhere I check is out of stock/preorder status online. I don't mind putting money down now, but I can't get a straight answer from any of these places about when they'll be available.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 04:00
|
|
|
If I have a 750 Ti and an i5 2500k, would it be better for gaming to upgrade the video card to an R9 280X or to move the CPU/MBD to an i5 4590? I mostly play older games at this point, but I'd like to beef it up before Fallout 4 in November. If I don't care about upgrading until November is there anything that may change cost between now and then of note?
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 04:36
|
|
|
I am just not having any luck with the parts Im buying. First pro4 DOA second pro4 gets here, put the cpu in, start indtalling the OS and during the updates it turns off. No idea why, first rhought is the psu but its a brand new gs evga. Then it kept turning on and off, test it with another psu, same. Decide to inspect the socket, bent pins. How the gently caress do you get bent pins this quickly? To make matters worse I spent the rest of the evening taking everything apart and putting it on my old sandy bridge. Spend like half an hour putting a 212 just to find the fan dead. Had to go find the old rear end stock cooler it had because I couldnt find anything else. Then everything actually worked! I spent like 400 on a new motherboard and cpu to find out that all I probably needed was some new ram and a better psu.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 04:36
|
|
Mulloy posted:If I have a 750 Ti and an i5 2500k, would it be better for gaming to upgrade the video card to an R9 280X or to move the CPU/MBD to an i5 4590? I mostly play older games at this point, but I'd like to beef it up before Fallout 4 in November. If I don't care about upgrading until November is there anything that may change cost between now and then of note? Nothing significant should happen between now and November as far as I know. As for what upgrade to get you definitely want to upgrade the video card instead of the CPU, only some games are significantly CPU limited but pretty much everything benefits from a better video card. As for what to upgrade to I would recommend either a R9 290 or GTX 970 with the 970 being better due to it's large overclocking headroom.
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 05:46
|
|
|
Mulloy posted:If I have a 750 Ti and an i5 2500k, would it be better for gaming to upgrade the video card to an R9 280X or to move the CPU/MBD to an i5 4590? I mostly play older games at this point, but I'd like to beef it up before Fallout 4 in November. If I don't care about upgrading until November is there anything that may change cost between now and then of note? The GPU by a wide margin. No new cards are likely to come out by then; the 290X fills a price-performance niche that no nVidia card does; the 970 outperforms it at roughly similar price-performance ratio and runs a fair bit cooler. Knowing how many pixels you're trying to push would help - actual x-count by y-count matters here; even if you aren't hooking them up to a 970 480" 480p panels (old Jumbotrons) and 6" UHD panels (2015/16 flagship phones) exist and GPUs don't care about the inches at all. At 1080p a 290X will leave you with little reason to complain and a 970 will pretty much be Conan in an iconic Frazetta painting. As for your CPU: Even if you literally don't believe in overclocking drop a few bucks on a cheap 120mm Cryorig or 212 Evo and kick that thing up to 41x with a manual 100.0 base clock (it can vary by like 1% if you don't, within tolerance for the stuff synchronized to the base clock like SATA and USB but why risk it and you really do want it as close to 100.0 as possible); that's not really so much overclocking as just telling it to turbo literally whenever possible. If you DO believe in overclocking you can get a bit more adventurous because somewhere around 80% of people can get 44x out of it (I might be the only person who couldn't even push it past 42).
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 07:41
|
|
|
Welp, thought I was getting a great deal on http://pcpartpicker.com/part/silverstone-case-kl05bq, amazon had it listed as for 50.49+12.50 shipping so about $10 less than everywhere else. Turns out the seller, RackGo sent me a PS11, an actual $50 case, instead of the KL05B. Contacted them and they told me to return it for a refund and offered free shipping on anything else I wanted from them but lo and behold the KL05B is now $70.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 18:49
|
|
|
tldr; are there any inexpensive video cards that are Windows 10 safe? Not a gamer. Long version. I have HD2000 onboard graphics and watching youtube videos crashes my computer. Intel says it's because that graphics chip is not W10 compatible, so not their problem. MS says drivers are Intel's responsibility. I have tried all sorts of fixes from updating the bios, updating MB utilities, reinstalling the driver, running CC Cleaner; the only thing I can think to do is pop in a video card and see if it solves the problem.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 19:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 15:30 |
|
|
Current best video card for about £300? Still the 970? What manufacturers? Anything I should wait for? This is not urgent so I can do that. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2015 19:13
|
|
