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Gropiemon posted:Same result with the 2nd pair if you take out the original pair and just have the 2nd wonky pair installed? nope, in that configuration it detects the correct size 
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Sep 4, 2015 00:26
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How can you tell if your video card is worn out? Is that even a thing? I just feel like it's been really sluggish and posting really weirdly hot temperatures lately when I push it. It's like four years old, but it's still a pretty good card (Radeon HD 6950) and I don't want to replace it if I don't have to.
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Sep 4, 2015 00:47
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Remora posted:How can you tell if your video card is worn out? Is that even a thing? I just feel like it's been really sluggish and posting really weirdly hot temperatures lately when I push it. It's like four years old, but it's still a pretty good card (Radeon HD 6950) and I don't want to replace it if I don't have to.
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Sep 4, 2015 01:35
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That was the first thing I did, actually, but I'll have another go.
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Sep 4, 2015 04:02
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Congrats, you're mining bitcoins for China
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Sep 5, 2015 03:42
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FCKGW posted:Congrats, you're mining bitcoins for China Other than that it's possible the fan(s) on the card died which you could check while it's running, and the thermal material between the GPU and the card's heatsink might need to be replaced after 4 years.
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Sep 5, 2015 17:52
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I've just added a new fan to my case (Corsair Carbide 200R) at the top bringing my total to 3: The new one at the top blowing outwards, rear exhaust and the front intake. As it was the only fan connector spare on Asus p8z77-v I plugged it into the power fan socket, it's running at 1500 rpm which I can't change through Asus' fan control software, I can adjust the other 2 and the cpu fan which is in the designated socket. My question is, which of the three fans would be best suited to the power fan socket? Am I better running the intake as the faster fan?
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Sep 5, 2015 21:41
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NonzeroCircle posted:I've just added a new fan to my case (Corsair Carbide 200R) at the top bringing my total to 3: The new one at the top blowing outwards, rear exhaust and the front intake. As it was the only fan connector spare on Asus p8z77-v I plugged it into the power fan socket, it's running at 1500 rpm which I can't change through Asus' fan control software, I can adjust the other 2 and the cpu fan which is in the designated socket.
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Sep 6, 2015 01:02
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D'oh, turns out it's the LX I have so I only have 2 Chassis connectors, sorry for the misinformation: the PWR header appears to be only for PSU fans, and mine has one already integrated (Corsair CX600). Would it's be better to get a splitter cable, or a proper fan controller like an NZXT Sentry? I appreciate if I go that route it won't work with Fan Xpert. Max number of case fans I can see myself ever having is 4 (adding an intake to the bottom) depending on how the 3 fan configuration works. The fans are all Corsair 120mm, max 1500 rpm. NonzeroCircle fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Sep 6, 2015 |
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Sep 6, 2015 15:41
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NonzeroCircle posted:The PWR header appears to be only for PSU fans, and mine has one already integrated. Just a quick question: What the gently caress is up with that anyway? Are there any PSUs out there that require external power for their fans? Or is it just an ancient relic that everyone is too afraid to get rid of like even modern CPUs booting into Real Mode?
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Sep 6, 2015 15:50
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NonzeroCircle posted:D'oh, turns out it's the LX I have so I only have 2 Chassis connectors, sorry for the misinformation: the PWR header appears to be only for PSU fans, and mine has one already integrated (Corsair CX600). Geemer posted:Just a quick question: What the gently caress is up with that anyway? Are there any PSUs out there that require external power for their fans? Or is it just an ancient relic that everyone is too afraid to get rid of like even modern CPUs booting into Real Mode?
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Sep 6, 2015 17:07
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Thanks for the advice Alereon, this was my first build and I put it together a couple years ago so didn't really take fan headers etc into consideration as I got a bundle from Dabs with mobo, CPU etc all included rather than picking discrete parts. Lesson learned for when I next upgrade! Will get myself a controller I think.
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Sep 6, 2015 17:35
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Is old thermal paste and dust enough to get my CPU to reach 70°C?? I hope that's my issue and is easy to fix.
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Sep 8, 2015 03:01
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Frijolero posted:Is old thermal paste and dust enough to get my CPU to reach 70°C?? It depends how much dust there is, but yeah. If the fins are caked up with dust they're not getting airflow across them.
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Sep 8, 2015 03:36
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Thanks! I think I found my problem though. The heatsink was slightly detached. It seems to be running better now. Does anyone know of a good program to track my temperature? The Open Hardware one seems to register higher temperatures than it actually is.
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Sep 8, 2015 15:10
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Frijolero posted:I think I found my problem though. The heatsink was slightly detached. It seems to be running better now. Does anyone know of a good program to track my temperature? The Open Hardware one seems to register higher temperatures than it actually is.
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Sep 8, 2015 16:02
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I was looking to expand the storage space on my computer (it only has a Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB,) so I bought a Western Digital 2TB Black Hard Drive. I have the drive installed right now, and it's been initialized as GPT (the Samsung SSD has Windows 7 installed on it, so making the WD a MBR seemed like it wouldn't be a good idea.) I'm at the point where I can partition and format the drive, but I'm not sure what I should do. My intent was to use the 2TB drive to store documents, videos, and music. However, I'm not sure how to do that. Do I assign it a drive letter, or do I mount it in an NTFS folder?
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Sep 11, 2015 23:24
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Max Wilco posted:I was looking to expand the storage space on my computer (it only has a Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB,) so I bought a Western Digital 2TB Black Hard Drive. I have the drive installed right now, and it's been initialized as GPT (the Samsung SSD has Windows 7 installed on it, so making the WD a MBR seemed like it wouldn't be a good idea.) The easiest way to do this in a failure resistant way is to give it it's own drive letter. Then in windows explorer you can make directories (folders) on it for whatever you want. If you like to use the windows Libraries (their default documents/photos/music/video things) you can link the folders on your second disk to them like: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Include-folders-in-a-library I've never used the microsoft provided documents libraries so I just have my own folders on a secondary disk. Standard warning here about making sure everything you actually want to keep is backed up so it exists in at least two places.
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Sep 12, 2015 01:12
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A friend and I are trying to find a good "starter" usb microphone for dabbling in making a podcast or similar nonsense- any recommendations? Ideally it would be multi-directional so we don't have to invest in two mics just to try out a new hobby. I'm really not sure if this belongs in here or IYG - thought it couldn't hurt to ask here 
Poulpe fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 18:30
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Try the home recording or the small questions thread in the musician's lounge or the pimp your podcast thread in rapidly going deaf.
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Sep 14, 2015 19:09
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Flipperwaldt posted:Try the home recording or the small questions thread in the musician's lounge or the pimp your podcast thread in rapidly going deaf. Perfect, thanks!
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Sep 14, 2015 20:20
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Anyone have suggestions for a decent HBA/raid card I can use for a JBOD setup? Its just for a media server so I don't need a fancy card. I just want something with two SFF-8087 ports and then an external SFF-8088 port so in the future I could purchase an external enclosure and add even more drives.
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Sep 14, 2015 21:05
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What is the best way to wipe an SSD for resale?
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Sep 17, 2015 14:21
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IuniusBrutus posted:What is the best way to wipe an SSD for resale? Turn on TRIM and delete all of the files. Many brands have a utility that you can do a "Secure erase" with.
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Sep 17, 2015 14:46
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IuniusBrutus posted:What is the best way to wipe an SSD for resale?
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Sep 17, 2015 16:07
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Nintendo Kid posted:Format it, then write the drive's entire capacity with garbage data if you're really worried about things and it's too old to support TRIM. It's not the best idea entirely over the drive without knowing what model it is, though, that'll just reduce the lifespan of every cell. Unless it's some ancient relic, it should have a secure erase function. IuniusBrutus posted:What is the best way to wipe an SSD for resale? So essentially, it depends on the model of the SSD. Edit: come to think of it, there's a dedicated thread relating to SSDs, so you'll probably get the quickest and most relevant response there HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 16:17
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HalloKitty posted:It's not the best idea entirely over the drive without knowing what model it is, though, that'll just reduce the lifespan of every cell. Yeah, by one write cycle per cell, which is no big deal. Even some really old ones still handle like 50,000 cycles per cell.
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Sep 17, 2015 16:30
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Thanks, I'll check there!
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Sep 17, 2015 16:52
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HalloKitty posted:It's not the best idea entirely over the drive without knowing what model it is, though, that'll just reduce the lifespan of every cell. Unless it's some ancient relic, it should have a secure erase function. What do you think secure erase does?
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Sep 17, 2015 20:43
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Geemer posted:What do you think secure erase does? For some reason I thought it worked in the same way that whole drive encryption does: it throws away the key making the entire drive effectively garbage data. But maybe it doesn't, or maybe most drives don't handle the data in that way. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 20:55
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HalloKitty posted:For some reason I thought it worked in the same way that whole drive encryption does: it throws away the key making the entire drive effectively garbage data. But maybe it doesn't, or maybe most drives don't handle the data in that way. On a decent group of drives, it just tells the cells to write themselves full of 0s, thereby using a write cycle. For that matter deleting anything on a drive with TRIM enabled tends to do the same thing, once the recycle bin is emptied that is. You do that and your only hope of recovering your just deleted data is breaking out the very low level test equipment maybe, if the cell hasn't been purged yet.
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Sep 17, 2015 21:16
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I'm attempting to install a Samsung 850 EVO as the primary drive on my wife's new laptop, but it is not going to well. To start, the laptop is new with Windows 10. When I plug in the drive, it did not show up anywhere, and Samsung's data migration software could not find the disk. I then went into disk management to initialize the drive and still no dice. I then formatted the drive and assigned it a letter and the migration software STILL won't see the SSD. It's showing up as "ASMT 2115 SCSI disk device". I thought this was supposed to be very straight forward?
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Sep 17, 2015 23:45
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Nintendo Kid posted:On a decent group of drives, it just tells the cells to write themselves full of 0s, thereby using a write cycle. For that matter deleting anything on a drive with TRIM enabled tends to do the same thing, once the recycle bin is emptied that is. You do that and your only hope of recovering your just deleted data is breaking out the very low level test equipment maybe, if the cell hasn't been purged yet. Auron posted:I'm attempting to install a Samsung 850 EVO as the primary drive on my wife's new laptop, but it is not going to well. Alereon fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 00:13
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Auron posted:I'm attempting to install a Samsung 850 EVO as the primary drive on my wife's new laptop, but it is not going to well. Are you plugging it in externally, like USB or eSATA?
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Sep 18, 2015 00:26
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Are you plugging it in externally, like USB or eSATA? Externally through a USB 3.0 to SATA connection
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Sep 18, 2015 00:29
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Auron posted:Externally through a USB 3.0 to SATA connection That's why, because your adapter identifies as an ASMT device. I have something similar. Maybe try a different cloning tool, like Macrium Reflect?
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Sep 18, 2015 00:55
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Nintendo Kid posted:On a decent group of drives, it just tells the cells to write themselves full of 0s, thereby using a write cycle. For that matter deleting anything on a drive with TRIM enabled tends to do the same thing, once the recycle bin is emptied that is. You do that and your only hope of recovering your just deleted data is breaking out the very low level test equipment maybe, if the cell hasn't been purged yet. Going around the hardware on an SSD in an effort to recover data marked as deleted is pretty much a fool's errand. With all the clever-as-gently caress block remapping and wear-levelling shenanigans, even if you get some data it's unlikely you'll know what cells to chain it to in order to get useful amounts of information out.
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Sep 18, 2015 02:27
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Not sure if there is a better place to ask this question or if I should start a thread, but anyway, I'm trying to build an instrument measurement and control system using LabVIEW. I have multiple instruments that communicate via serial port that I want to control from my laptop. Is it feasible to, using only a single USB port, hook up my DAQ to a USB hub, and then have usb-serial converters hooked up from my hub to my other instruments?
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Sep 19, 2015 03:26
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I built a new PC about 2 weeks ago. Today, I was cleaning and the surge protector became unplugged from the wall while the PC was on. When I attempted to turn it back on, it does not boot. No BIOS, the monitors do not get a signal sent, but the lights come on and the fans all spin up, and the hard drives spin up as well. I have tried swapping in an old video card and have the same results, have tried swapping out the ram, swapped in a different power supply, and have tried each of the hard drives alone. Does this make any sense? Could unplugging the surge protector have irreversibly damaged the motherboard or CPU? The power supply I was using was a really well reviewed Antec, plenty of wattage. What could cause the PC to not send a signal to the monitors? I can't actually verify that it isn't booting to bios, as I can't see. But, I have tried a different video card, AND tried the onboard video. Nothing works. Have any of you heard of this? Is there anything I can do besides trying to exchange the MB at this point? Should I exchange the PSU too as it's already caused one MB to die? Could it be the CPU? It is a brand new PC and I really dont want it to be broken, but... power loss happens... i've never had a PC die like this. If this is the wrong place, sorry- it doesn't seem like it would require a lot of troubleshooting as per the OP.
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Sep 19, 2015 03:44
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Subyng posted:Not sure if there is a better place to ask this question or if I should start a thread, but anyway, I don't know anything about the software or hardware you're using specifically, but generally this should work as long as the devices are normally okay with serial to USB bridges. It's really common in the micrcontroller world to hook stuff up with USB to serial converters to program and interact with the microcontrollers (most of which have serial interfaces). A USB controller is supposed to be able to handle 127 devices attached to it. The only thing may be that if the USB port is providing the power to the USB devices it may not have enough depending on how much each requires, since USB 2.0 ports are only specced for 500mA. A powered hub is always a good idea in a situation like that, since it will have its own wall transformer and provide power to the ports.
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Sep 19, 2015 04:33
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