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VideoTapir posted:Re: Versa hate: I drove a rental Versa from Dallas to New Orleans (and back) that's about 20 hours inside of that death trap. Worst. Decision. Ever. Holy poo poo, what the gently caress. What a piece of poo poo gutless car. People who buy that car deserve what they get. Never ever again. I don't think it ever shifted in to overdrive/top gear the entire time we drove it. We averaged like 25mpg on the highway. Gutless car that shook us to bits. We're not old but goddamn that was an uncomfortable car to try and sleep in, on the highway. I've never ever had trouble sleeping in a car before (uh, 100,000 highway miles in passenger cars? 200,000? i'd have to count but it's a lot) but this thing was loving miserable to try and pass out in for 20 minutes at a time. Like riding in a box of rocks. It was a 2013 model. Maybe they've improved it since then. Probably not. gently caress the Versa forever. I'm glad you sick fucks are buying Versas, because that keeps the market price pressure down on cars that I actually want to drive. And lol you're driving a Versa. gently caress you and gently caress that car. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 07:26
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Twerk from Home posted:How cheap is it actually? $12k? $11k? $11 and change. Maybe it's not that great of a deal though. S+ MSRP is lower than I thought, they just had a super high sticker at the dealership. The MSRP is only $14,800 with destination fee included, they had it stickered for like $16,800. They said I could likely get a new one for 14k from them, so I compare to that. The 14k isn't a screaming deal, but there really might be very little room to haggle with such a cheap car, and that's why I think the 11k for this one is so good. Then again, maybe that 14k is a very meager offer that I didn't bother challenging at the time. jarjarbinksfan621 fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 12:26
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Do not do business with that dealership. Edit: also, is this a 2015? A Nissan dealer should be giving away a 2015. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 16:05
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How do people figure out if a car is a rental? It seems like every car at CarMax is "fleet, rental or lease" in the Vehicle History Report.
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Sep 12, 2015 16:11
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Thanks to the advice of this thread and a lot of research. Just bought a 2015 mazda 3 I sport.
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Sep 12, 2015 18:51
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smackfu posted:How do people figure out if a car is a rental? It seems like every car at CarMax is "fleet, rental or lease" in the Vehicle History Report. "Lease" is not a rental. Fleet and rental I would avoid. Edit: beyond versa sucking, Nissan dealers are the new high volume ripoff dealerships who prey on people who don't know what they are doing. Once suzuki died and mitsu became near death, Nissan dealers saw a niche and took it. nm fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 19:06
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I wonder how the Suzuki withdrawal went, re: internal corporate-dealer and Suzuki-GM communication. I'll bet it was hilarious.
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Sep 12, 2015 19:22
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Do not do business with that dealership. It is 2015, but their pricing is in line with the other Nissan Dealership I contacted. Their stickers are just stupid high on the lot. It's funny, their website is the opposite. They have the bait-and-switch pricing that you only get if you qualify for every rebate, many of them in-house and not actually offered by Nissan. So, that New S+ that stickered for over 16k on their lot, it's a mere $12,400 on their website. I knew that price was bullshit going in though, still wanted to see if they could beat the 14k another Nissan Dealer's internet manager offered me. If I'm going with the Versa, that deal for the loaner is gonna be very hard to beat. I don't think I'll be able to get a lot off until the 2016s drop and the dealership still has 15s sitting on the lot. I actually don't want to deal with that dealership either, because I think their bait-and-switch pricing is bad business. Still, a good price is a good price.
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Sep 12, 2015 20:18
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smackfu posted:How do people figure out if a car is a rental? It seems like every car at CarMax is "fleet, rental or lease" in the Vehicle History Report. Scroll down to the detailed vehicle history in the report, "titled as part of a rental fleet" will usually be one of the entries. Most of those with that "fleet, rental, or lease" marker on the report are rentals, a lot fewer leases on Carmax.
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Sep 12, 2015 20:42
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The 2016s are out like... now ish so unless this is the most urgent purchase of your entire life, wait two months, get one that's 90+ days in inventory brand new with a full warranty for like $12k.
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Sep 12, 2015 21:42
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The 2016s are out like... now ish so unless this is the most urgent purchase of your entire life, wait two months, get one that's 90+ days in inventory brand new with a full warranty for like $12k. And if you don't care about color/options, even longer. My brother's 2005 RX8 didn't sell until March 2006, which resulted in a steal. Also, if the dealer is shady as poo poo and you do buy it, be very very careful. You have not said if you are buying cash or financing (which is it, it matters), but they can dick with the pricing in the F&I office too.
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Sep 12, 2015 22:11
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nm posted:Also, if the dealer is shady as poo poo and you do buy it, be very very careful. You have not said if you are buying cash or financing (which is it, it matters), but they can dick with the pricing in the F&I office too. I'm paying cash unless I can somehow get a 0.0% deal with fair credit. If I could get a similar price at another dealership, I wouldn't think of buying from them. They just have this Versa, and my other choice, a 2015 accent which I could probably haggle to 13.5k since the 2016s rolled out (I don't really know since it was pulling teeth to get the sociopathic Hyundai salesman to ballpark). The local Hyundai dealership I like better sold all their 2015s. It's interesting, from talking to the internet sales manager of that other dealership, I learned that the 2016 Elantra can actually be had cheaper than the 2016 accent (MSRP is 3k more) because the current incentives are so much better.
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Sep 12, 2015 23:47
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Trying to talk my dad from trading his spare 04 endeavour plus cash for a 04 Avalanche. The Mitsubishi ain't perfect but runs and drives fine, while an early 2000s Chevy with over 200k miles seems like it might be not the best upgrade. Dad says he might need a truck one day but he might be just looking for an excuse.
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Sep 13, 2015 18:32
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My 2010 corolla was stolen over the weekend and the insurance company wants to settle out and if the car is recovered it will go to them. I've never bought a car before. I bought this one from my aunt when I was in college so it was hassle free and it just got me from A to B. I'm 28 years old, single, live 1.5 miles away from work, and rarely go on road trips. I have no idea what I'm doing. All I know is what cars I think "look cool to drive" which are challengers, four door trucks, and jeeps. I kind of want to get a stick shift because it looks fun and I've never learned. I have no idea what I'm doing and I think sound like a 15 year old. Proposed Budget: $30,000 or less New or Used: Used Body Style: Four-door truck or two seater fast car How will you be using the car?: Going to work and thats about it. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability. I'd like to be okay owning this car for at least 5 years(hopefully 10) Thanks for whoever takes this on. I have no idea what I want.
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Sep 14, 2015 17:23
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RisqueBarber posted:My 2010 corolla was stolen over the weekend and the insurance company wants to settle out and if the car is recovered it will go to them. I've never bought a car before. I bought this one from my aunt when I was in college so it was hassle free and it just got me from A to B. I'm 28 years old, single, live 1.5 miles away from work, and rarely go on road trips. I have no idea what I'm doing. All I know is what cars I think "look cool to drive" which are challengers, four door trucks, and jeeps. I kind of want to get a stick shift because it looks fun and I've never learned. I have no idea what I'm doing and I think sound like a 15 year old. $30k is a lot of money to spend on a car, and you had better hope to get a lot of pleasure out of it. If you just want a good reliable comfortable car to get back and forth to work, you can get that very easily for $12k-$15k. If you do want to spend a lot of money on a car and want a pony car, you should check out a 2011-2014 Mustang with a V8 and a stick or a Challenger with the 5.7 or the 6.4. Have fun!
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Sep 14, 2015 17:29
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If you live 1.5 miles from work and don't go anywhere, you really don't need the car to be reliable.
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Sep 14, 2015 17:36
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RisqueBarber posted:My 2010 corolla was stolen over the weekend and the insurance company wants to settle out and if the car is recovered it will go to them. I've never bought a car before. I bought this one from my aunt when I was in college so it was hassle free and it just got me from A to B. I'm 28 years old, single, live 1.5 miles away from work, and rarely go on road trips. I have no idea what I'm doing. All I know is what cars I think "look cool to drive" which are challengers, four door trucks, and jeeps. I kind of want to get a stick shift because it looks fun and I've never learned. I have no idea what I'm doing and I think sound like a 15 year old. Please don't buy a cool car to drive a 1.5mi commute. It is incredibly hard on the car because it never gets up to temp. Buy an awesome car and a bike and bike to work. Note that if you don't drive you have to do maintence based on time, not mileage. Also 5.0 mustang or srt8 challenger.
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Sep 14, 2015 17:58
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Thanks for the help so far. nm posted:Please don't buy a cool car to drive a 1.5mi commute. It is incredibly hard on the car because it never gets up to temp. I've thought about biking to work but I live in Dallas where there is no such thing as bike lanes. Because I drive so little, your saying it would actually hurt the car(for example a srt8 challenger) if I don't drive it enough? KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If you live 1.5 miles from work and don't go anywhere, you really don't need the car to be reliable. I just want my next car to last, I don't want to go through this every 2-3 years. Twerk from Home posted:$30k is a lot of money to spend on a car, and you had better hope to get a lot of pleasure out of it. If you just want a good reliable comfortable car to get back and forth to work, you can get that very easily for $12k-$15k. I thought $30,000 was around the average amount people spend on cars. And yeah I've been frugal on my cars since I was 16 (bought a sable from my dad, a corolla from my aunt), and now I'm in a spot in my life , financially, where I kind of want something cool and fun to drive. Although, I feel overwhelmed and don't want to get something ill hate in two years.
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Sep 14, 2015 19:22
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RisqueBarber posted:I thought $30,000 was around the average amount people spend on cars. And yeah I've been frugal on my cars since I was 16 (bought a sable from my dad, a corolla from my aunt), and now I'm in a spot in my life , financially, where I kind of want something cool and fun to drive. Although, I feel overwhelmed and don't want to get something ill hate in two years. If you want a cool car in the $15k-$20k range, look at the Subaru BRZ / Scion FRS or 2011-2014 V6 Mustang, if you can find one with a stick and the performance package. The reason that $30k is the median new cars price is that only rich people tend to buy new cars now, and a huge % of new cars sold are pickup trucks in the $40k range and big family crossovers, both of which are more expensive than normal cars. I like cars, and like new cars, and have always thought there were plenty of great, fun options new in the $25k or less range. I'm also driving a deeply uncool car right now though: a stick shift V6 Mustang because it was by far the cheapest 300hp, RWD, manual transmission thing I could get with heated leather seats. $22k brand new! Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 19:30
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I do like the FRS a lot. I'll take a look into those. edit: Also, on the financial side of things, what's the best way to shop? And I'll probably pay in cash. Is that something I should mention upfront or wait until they tell me the price? RisqueBarber fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 19:33
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RisqueBarber posted:Thanks for the help so far. The issue is not not driving it. If you only drive it once a week and drive it for 15mi, your car will be happy and last forever as long as you follow the manufacturers time based service schedule (they will say oil change every 5000mi OR every 6 months, you need to change every 6 months even if you only drive 2000 mi). On the other hand, if you drive 15 miles over 10 trips (aka 1.5 mi each way), you will never warm up the car. The oil will never get to temp, which means it won't flow correctly (excess wear). This happens in all cars, but for most people it is a fraction of thier driving. For your car, it will be 100% of your driving. Further, with each warm (but not hot, warmed up) cycle you will get more consensation in your oil. Water in the oil doesn't lubricate. This isn't an issue in most cars as a warmed up car's oil gets to 100C and vaporizes the water. Won't happen on a 1.5midrive. Basically buy the cool car, don't drive it during the week, drive on weekends, have fun, and get a bike for the week. Edit 1: Direct injection systems really don't like never being warmed up due to carbon buildip. The toyota system (found in the frs/brz) avoid this issue, but not the others. Edit 2: how you pay is not important to a dealer until you want to pay. Don't say poo poo as they might give you a deal with the hope they can get you with finance. With private parties cash means less hastlr than waiting for check from a bank, so that may be good. Always buy a used car private party unless it is a unicorn that can't be bought elsewhere. Lower transaction price and you can size up the owner -- my brother has perhaps the only "reliable" RX-8 because the previous owner was a massively anal rotard who did everythong right with it. nm fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 19:58
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All cars last now, I wouldn't worry about that. edit: you will be fine just letting the car idle for like five to ten minutes before doing your drive. I wouldn't worry too much about that. How long does the drive take? If it's 1.5 miles in stop and go traffic, it'll be fine. If it's 1.5 miles of freeway, not so much. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 20:05
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Nm is right. It probably even matters more now because everything has motorcycle-like tolerances. Cylinder wall wear is an inverse exponential function in relation to temperature. This is why cars have thermostats. Short trips produce the most wear in normal situations. Phone fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 20:07
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Sax Solo fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Dec 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2015 22:08
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Isn't Dallas one of the worst cities in the US to bike in, like it was designed to kill people on bicycles?RisqueBarber posted:I do like the FRS a lot. I'll take a look into those. Since you mentioned reliability, you might want to check out consumer reports since they put an emphasis on safety and reliability in their reviews. 30k will buy you a lot of car, I recently bought an Infiniti G37 for much closer to 20k after cross-shopping BMW and Audi because I felt that it would be much more reliable.
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Sep 14, 2015 22:17
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Guys, you're all forgetting the best solution to his situation. He needs to map out a fun loop around his area and spend 20 minutes flogging the car all around, instead of taking the 1.5 mile direct path at idle. Problem solved.Sax Solo posted:The Accord V6 has spoiled me on speed First off, never shop on monthly payment - this makes you a prime target to get absolutely hosed by the dealership playing games to get the payment where you want it to be. Figure out a realistic interest amount and loan term, the maximum payment you / your budget would be comfortable with, and work that back to what that gets you in terms of total purchase price when combined with your down payment / taxes / other fees. Negotiate on out-the-door price only. I'd say shop a CR-V or a Pilot if you want "like my Accord but bigger / taller", but both of them are going to feel drat slow compared to your Accord.
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Sep 14, 2015 22:33
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What about a V6 Rav 4? They're pretty fast IIRC. I don't actually know anything about Rav 4's though so it may be a bad suggestion.
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Sep 14, 2015 22:55
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They don't offer a V6 anymore from what I can see, and personally the styling on it was hideous enough that I never even gave them a second look when I was shopping two years ago.
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Sep 14, 2015 23:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:Guys, you're all forgetting the best solution to his situation. He needs to map out a fun loop around his area and spend 20 minutes flogging the car all around, instead of taking the 1.5 mile direct path at idle. Problem solved. Also an option. Seriously though biking 1.5 miles is easy even on poo poo roads. So easy I almost considered suggesting walking. Also my uncle was like a semi pro cyclist, and Dallas never killed him, it can't be that bad.
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Sep 14, 2015 23:57
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When I lived 1.5 miles from work I walked or biked every day rain or shine, summer or winter. It was great and I really miss it. A 20-30 minute walk (or 5-10 minute bike ride) is a great way to start and end the work day. It doesn't entirely replace real exercise, but it still is so much healthier and makes you feel so much better than commuting via car. Driving a car 1.5 miles every day is such a waste of money and is so bad for the car.
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Sep 15, 2015 00:04
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nm posted:Also an option.
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Sep 15, 2015 00:14
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So I'm currently looking for a new car and I hit one of those 'nonexistant market segments' things. Here's what I'm looking for: Proposed Budget: 45-50k New or Used: New (Can afford it, really want the piece of mind associated.) Body Style: 4-door wagon or hatchback How will you be using the car?: Daily commuter + moving things around sometimes. Wife has a civic, looking for something to give us some options for buying stuff. What aspects are most important to you? I want a nice interior with lots of features. Quiet interior, nice sound system, etc. I currently drive a 2013 VW GTI that's coming up on the end of it's lease, so something better than that in terms of interior quality/etc. I would prefer something with around 200 hp, give or take. More than that seems like asking for trouble, less than that has seemed anemic to me - I want to be able to not feel like I'm struggling on on-ramps or freeway passing, but don't need to be 2FAST2FURIOUS. Ideally, I'd like a wagon version of the GTI with a slightly nicer interior, but that doesn't exist. My current choices are as follows: Lexus CT200h - I like the look and the price is great, but I've heard that it's pretty drat slow. 80% of the time the MPG and all that'll be great, but I drove a baseline civic for years and hated every single time I had someone tailgating me as I struggled onto a freeway onramp at 10 under - not interested in revisiting that. BMW 3-series wagon/GT - Entry level is in my price range, but to get something comparable to what the CT has fully loaded would cost 55-60 or so, which I could make happen, but seems like a lot. On the other hand, the 3 series is a pretty impeccable car, so at least it's solid quality. I rent, so I can't really get a plug in electric. (may be moving over the next 3-5 years so not really excited about paying to move/patch up charger station installations) This segment has been completely taken over by CUVs and Crossovers, which seem to get panned pretty hard in reviews. I'm going to test drive the Lexus NX when I check out the CT200, since it seems good, but I'd much rather have a wagon than a crossover or SUV. Is there anything I'm missing? Badge is not particularly important to me - if someone else can deliver the quality and interior I'd go with whatever, but I'd prefer to avoid sedans/etc and get something with more of a contiguous cargo space.
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Sep 15, 2015 00:36
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Help? It's probably not the right time to buy a car, but as maintenance piles up on my 2005 Ford Focus Station Wagon, I'm getting curious about the reasonable cost of a newer vehicle. I just inherited some money, and considering what is worth upgrading in my life before I invest the rest. (The Ford was also inherited.)quote:Proposed Budget: This is part of what I need help with--reasonable price ranges for the kind of car I would want to drive. 10k? 30k? 50k? I'm afraid if I walk into a sales centre right now they'd run circles around me with bullshit I'm too ignorant to dispute. quote:New or Used: Preferably new. I am utterly ignorant about car well-being beyond regular oil checks, keeping the windsheild fluid up, and paying the service department to swap my winter tires for all-seasons and back. It'd have to be a really, really well trusted source. quote:Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) Four door, compact/medium. I don't want to drive anything bigger than what I have now. I want to be able to carry four passengers and have a couple suitcases in the trunk. quote:How will you be using the car?: (Do you tow things? Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? Have a super long commute? How are you going to use this vehicle? Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) Casual use. I freelance and take classes, so there are some days I'm behind the wheel for an hour, other days I don't use it at all. I do, however, need to drive into the interior of BC a couple times a year; that's a 4-5 hour trek up the Coquihalla Highway, which has been killing people all summer. (Rocky mountain terrain, so steep ups and downs with madly unpredictable weather.) Sometimes, I'm going to be driving on packed ice, or gravelled roads, and sometimes I'm out on old logging roads to get to obscure campsites. Consequently, I care about safety features, a decent stereo, and some trunk space. I don't need a jeep or off-road anything--the Focus has been fine for my needs. I give no shits about gizmos, but electronic windows and door locks are handy. quote:What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style) Reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, power for driving up mountains. Comfy for long, long drives. Good mileage, of course. quote:If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot. Canadian, but I can get to Seattle in about half a day.
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Sep 15, 2015 00:51
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I really don't buy the lexus is so slow I'll be struggling argument. I drive a 100hp subcompact and it had no issues with the mountain pass on my daily commute. Don't be afraid to floor it. If you just want something faster, fine, but the lexus is plenty quick for your needs. Eveything but a mitsu mirage is. Seriously, go drive it. Everything people say is "slow" was fast as hrll 20 years ago when you couldn't buy 707hp sedans for under 70 grand. What does an a4 wagon (allroad whatever the gently caress) cost there? If you're willing to deal with VAG, I don't think a small engine a4 will be any worse. Honestly though, the golf/jetta wagon is actually really nice when you spec it up. You could also go the a3 hatch route though that is golf sized (and is, in fact, just a golf with a nicer interior). nm fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 00:52
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nm posted:I really don't buy the lexus is so slow I'll be struggling argument. I drive a 100hp subcompact and it had no issues with the mountain pass on my daily commute. Don't be afraid to floor it. Yeah, it's totally possible that I'm overblowing it, just a thing I'm a bit sensitive to after years of my old lovely civic. Still going to test drive the thing. I'm in US-WA, so the Allroad is actually in my price range (starts at 42.7k)...and I'm not sure why I left it off, but I think I had a good reason. I'll give it a second look. The A3 doesn't come in a hatch anymore - it came back as a wagon this year but only in plug-in electric form - and I don't think they had an A3 wagon in 2015 at all.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:02
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Pixelante posted:Help? It's probably not the right time to buy a car, but as maintenance piles up on my 2005 Ford Focus Station Wagon, I'm getting curious about the reasonable cost of a newer vehicle. I just inherited some money, and considering what is worth upgrading in my life before I invest the rest. (The Ford was also inherited.) I think just about every one in the northwest that is close to your requirements buys a Subuaru Outback or Impreza, which start at 25k and 18k USD respectively. I can't personally recommend them (not because I dislike them, simply that I haven't driven one) though. Falcon2001 fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 01:05
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Canada gets the hatch, which is why i mentioned if. We get hosed in the US. Can you find a leftover TSX wagon? That would be my #1 choice?
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Sep 15, 2015 01:06
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nm posted:Canada gets the hatch, which is why i mentioned if. We get hosed in the US. They stopped those in 2014, so that's two model years ago at this point; I'd be hard pressed to find one new and I'd really rather not go CPO. Wish they were still making them though.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:11
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Last time I took it in for maintenance a sales guy looked at it sadly and said, "I wish we still had those." On a fifteen minute walk down my street I pass at least five of nearly the same model. Theirs are almost always cleaner than mine.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:17
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Pixelante posted:Last time I took it in for maintenance a sales guy looked at it sadly and said, "I wish we still had those." On a fifteen minute walk down my street I pass at least five of nearly the same model. Theirs are almost always cleaner than mine. Yeah it's really weird to me that they'd drop it, but there must be more sacrifices for the crossover gods, I suppose.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:20
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