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I'm not disregarding it. I'm listening to the advice. I said that I was more than likely going to walk away. Christ. I'm just saying I'm mulling it over after I got a second opinion with having an extremely reputable body guy take a look at it and say it wasn't a huge deal and could easily be fixed. If the dealership is offering to let me take it where I want on their dime to get it fixed that has to be worth something, no? I really just came back to confirm Calculus' original diagnosis - spot on for calling that one. I originally only wanted to know why in the hell someone would put foam like that in there. Mileage is so low there really isn't any other maintenance that should/could have been done in the time the PO had it other than one - maybe two - oil changes. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 02:25
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It kind of concerns me that the price is that low AND the dealer is willing to pay to fix a shoddy repair. Kinda screams "get this thing off our hands before the really bad part comes to light!"tater_salad posted:Dude walk the gently caress away or deal with po fuckery you asked for advice and now you don't want to take it. It never stops being relevant: OP: "Help! HELP! I'm stuck in a well!!!" Goons1-4: "Climb! Climb up and take our hands!" OP: "I'm thinking I should dig... should I dig?" Goon5: "NO! I was trapped in a well, and digging is a bad idea! Climb out!" Goons6-8: "Were lowering ropes! Take hold of a rope!" Goon9: "I've even tied a harness to the end of this one!" OP: "I can feel the ropes, but I don't want to hold onto them... should I dig?" Goon10: "No! If you dig, you'll hit water, and then you'll be proper hosed. I should know, I almost drowned." OP: "I dug a little bit just now, and I haven't hit water. I'm gonna keep digging..." Goons11-18: "No! Climb! Climb out!" OP: "Guys, I'm seriously stuck in this well! Help! HELP!!!" Goon19: "I was trapped in a well once. It took me two years, but I managed to build a climbing machine that pulled me to safety out of a well bucket and a pocket watch. I'm dropping the blueprints, extra buckets, and an assortment of pocket watches." Goon20: "I've engineered a jet-pack that will rocket you to safety. Stay where you are and we'll lower it down!"" "OP: "Thanks for your help, guys. I'm gonna keep digging. I'll find the Mines of Moria and I'll just walk to the surface." **Goons1-20 piss in the well** Goon21: "Guys, seriously... stop peeing in the well."
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Sep 15, 2015 02:44
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Goddamnit. Came here to post the pissing in a well bit..  That said, if you're really set on this car, get the dealer to at least throw in some kind of extended warranty that covers everything until at least 100k. If you can't get them to do that, you need to pee in the well too.
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Sep 15, 2015 02:54
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:If the dealership is offering to let me take it where I want on their dime to get it fixed that has to be worth something, no? The only reason they're even entertaining the idea of paying a shop to fix it, is because they figured out too late that they took an absolute turd on trade. They think they can make more money paying to get it fixed well enough, than they'd lose dumping it at auction. The combination of extremely poor bodywork and no Carfax wreck tells me someone did this repair as cheaply as possible, to avoid reporting it on insurance. The bodywork may not have been all it needed to be repaired properly. Even if you went through with it... Who is on the hook if the repairs end up insufficient to make the car right? What if the shop recommends more extensive repairs than the dealer will pay for? You basically need to treat it like a salvage title car, even though the title might still be clean.
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Sep 15, 2015 03:11
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My dad wants me to change the brakes on his '11 or' 12 Subaru Forester. Any special tools needed to get at the calipers or rotors?
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Sep 15, 2015 03:30
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There was the goon in a well a week or so ago with the TSX, who ACTUALLY TOOK THE JETPACK AND SOARED OUT OF THE WELL (dealership was trying to gently caress him on a new transmission that may or may not but probably was not neccesary)
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Sep 15, 2015 03:53
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Uthor posted:My dad wants me to change the brakes on his '11 or' 12 Subaru Forester. Any special tools needed to get at the calipers or rotors? You need a 14mm spanner and a 17mm spanner.
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Sep 15, 2015 04:24
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Word. I'm good on those. Thanks.
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Sep 15, 2015 05:07
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Also grease, a bungee cord, and a 10mm.
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Sep 15, 2015 06:58
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03 mazdaspeed protégé doesn't wanna crank if it's been parked hot for 5-20 minutes. Starts fine cold, or immediately after shutoff, but within that window it'll groan one cylinder past compression then grind to a halt. Battery tests good, though that's with the parts store handheld tester. I'll take it to a shop next chance I get and have them test it proper, but does this sounds like a battery, or is there some heat soak issue that could cause behavior like this? It's not just a dying starter, as it starts fine with a jump.
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Sep 15, 2015 07:41
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Hey, the front control arm bushings on my 2002 Magna are in bad shape and I want to replace them. How hard would this be to diy? I think I'm pretty mechanically capable but the most difficult things I've done so far would be replacing a speedo cable and a stereo. What do you guys think?
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Sep 15, 2015 07:41
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1987 Lada Niva. Stupid question, not a problem. I've been contemplating a set of Kumho KL71 tyres. The sticking point is they have directional tread. What do people usually do about a spare tyre in this case?
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Sep 15, 2015 11:40
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Directional wont be an issue if its mounted right. You can rotate directional tires you just need to be sure they are mounted right.
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Sep 15, 2015 12:49
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General_Failure posted:The sticking point is they have directional tread. What do people usually do about a spare tyre in this case? Keep the best of your old tires and have it mounted as a spare.
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Sep 15, 2015 12:59
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Geirskogul posted:Also grease, a bungee cord, and a 10mm. I was just worried I'd need some big allen sockets or triple squares (VW!) or something.
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Sep 15, 2015 14:15
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PaintVagrant posted:There was the goon in a well a week or so ago with the TSX, who ACTUALLY TOOK THE JETPACK AND SOARED OUT OF THE WELL That was me, thanks for remembering  My car is at the transmission specialist now and will be ready later this week after the transmission overhaul at 1/3 the price the dealership was demanding e: Yes it was an internal mechanical failure, and the lady at the transmission shop said most dealerships don't have people on hand that even know how to take apart a transmission and overhaul it, so they were going straight for the transmission replacement. The dumbest part is, it wouldn't be a new transmission anyway, the dealership almost always orders refurbed transmissions, so I would have basically gotten the same thing I'm getting at the transmission shop, except I'm getting it with a labor and parts warranty and about $6500 less than the dealership wanted. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 14:55
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Enourmo posted:03 mazdaspeed protégé doesn't wanna crank if it's been parked hot for 5-20 minutes. Starts fine cold, or immediately after shutoff, but within that window it'll groan one cylinder past compression then grind to a halt. Vapor lock? It's been a while since I owned a MSP, but I could see one being chuckle-hosed hard enough to suffer from that. How much time passed between trying to start it and trying to start it with a jump? Enough that the engine would have had time to cool a bit?
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Sep 15, 2015 16:04
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1972 international pickup, v8 with dual exhaust. Does anyone have a good estimate for labor hours requires to custom fabricate dual exhausts from the manifold back? Trying to decide if $1300 is reasonable for a complete replacement.
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Sep 15, 2015 16:52
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life is killing me posted:That was me, thanks for remembering Glad it's working out for you.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:09
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Safety Dance posted:Vapor lock? It's been a while since I owned a MSP, but I could see one being chuckle-hosed hard enough to suffer from that. Like, no crank, hook up cables, starts fine with jump seconds later. And I doubt it's vapor lock, usually that makes a car crank fine but wont catch. Update: happened again this morning, with a cold engine. As an added bonus, it now dies the second I so much as breathe on the gas pedal; I ended up having to take my mom's car to class for the day. Looks like I'm replacing the battery, and potentially deeper issues.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:09
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StormDrain posted:1972 international pickup, v8 with dual exhaust. Not unless they're custom building the manifolds and its all stainless. Jesus.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:11
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How does the oil look and smell?
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Sep 15, 2015 17:12
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Ozmiander posted:Not unless they're custom building the manifolds and its all stainless. Jesus. That's what I was thinking. There's a ton of room for routing pipes underneath so you don't have to be particularly accurate and I don't want anything fancy.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:28
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Enourmo posted:Like, no crank, hook up cables, starts fine with jump seconds later. And I doubt it's vapor lock, usually that makes a car crank fine but wont catch. I'd be thinking Crankshaft Position Sensor as a culprit, rather than a battery.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:29
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StormDrain posted:1972 international pickup, v8 with dual exhaust. Shouldn't cost that much unless it's some specialized job and you want it hidden as much as possible and they are making headers from scratch.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:38
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spog posted:I'd be thinking Crankshaft Position Sensor as a culprit, rather than a battery. Whoops, I said no crank when I meant really slow crank. If it just didn't turn over at all I'd agree with you, but it'll turn like half a revolution/one stroke before grinding to a halt, and the lights dim. But then once is running, everything seems fine, steady idle, bright lights and ask that, but touching the gas at all makes it shut off. I haven't had a chance to put a multimeter on it yet to see what the voltage is doing, but this morning after the first crank attempt my radio reset itself to factory settings, so I think the answer is "pretty loving low".
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Sep 15, 2015 17:43
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I'd say dead battery caused by a dead alternator if it won't stay running after a jump.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:44
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Enourmo posted:Like, no crank, hook up cables, starts fine with jump seconds later. And I doubt it's vapor lock, usually that makes a car crank fine but wont catch. Lol Mazdaspeed Protege. The car only an enthusiast could love. I still miss mine You're right about the vapor lock thing. I was barking up the wrong tree. It's probably your battery. Might have chooched your alternator too, at this point.
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Sep 15, 2015 17:47
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Enourmo posted:Like, no crank, hook up cables, starts fine with jump seconds later. And I doubt it's vapor lock, usually that makes a car crank fine but wont catch. All battery connections clean and tight?
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Sep 15, 2015 19:02
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has a rusty back door, the ABS is permanently disabled/ripped out, the A/C only works in defrost mode...no air through the vents on any other setting, and no cooling either, and the power locks don't work on the passenger side, and there are a number of disturbing clunks and thumps and squeaks in the undercarriage when I go over speed humps slowly...and related to this the ride is miserable, noisy, bouncy, and carsick-making. Worse than before, that is. Also haven't taken it in for the mandatory recall, apparently I get 200 funbux if I bring it in now. ANYWAY, this is the second car for the family, and I only drive the thing a few thousand miles a year and all of the above were livable for mostly shuttling a 4 bicycles to the trailhead and in town grocery-getting, when the prius is in use. Except for the A/C...that sucks. Got an appointment with the local independant garage for Monday to get all of the above looked at, and find out what is fixable, and for how much. Anything I should look out for? How much is too much to pay to fix a car that starts reliably, and doesn't let the rain in, but is worn down in all other aspects? Thing is, if I decide to get rid of it and buy a new car, I'll be locking myself out of awesome future space-cars for the next 15-20 years, so I feel like I kinda want to limp along another two or three years and see if the Tesla 3 is worth having. (is this a dumb thing to think?)
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Sep 15, 2015 20:29
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StormDrain posted:All battery connections clean and tight? Seconding loose battery cables. Does the radio forget its presets and the time?
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Sep 15, 2015 21:35
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It did today during cranking, but it's never happened before. Connections felt good and solid. I'm at school for a few more hours, probably won't be able to check anything till tomorrow.
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Sep 15, 2015 22:31
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The carpet on my dead pedal has come unglued. What should I use to stick it back down? Can I just do that part, or should I rip it all out?
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Sep 15, 2015 22:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd say dead battery caused by a dead alternator if it won't stay running after a jump. Ah, yes, this sounds like a very good diagnosis. That's why you're the brains of the group.
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Sep 15, 2015 22:50
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tater_salad posted:Directional wont be an issue if its mounted right. You can rotate directional tires you just need to be sure they are mounted right. Not so much worried about rotation as much as potential issues when actually needing to use a spare. But thanks, that's good to know. some texas redneck posted:Keep the best of your old tires and have it mounted as a spare. I have considered this option. Gotta be the sperg and say that if it's one of the old tyres it's already mounted. Sorry. The issue I have with this idea is that the company that made the old set closed their doors in the mid '90s. Might just see if I can pick up a secondhand mud or AT with some tread left as a spare. The odds of me needing it are pretty low. Thanks! I'm going to drop around to the local tyre place today to see if his phone calls yielded anything better than purchasing off eBay. Either way I'm hoping to organize to purchase today or tomorrow. Not rushing, just the eBay thing ends tomorrow and I'm sick of only having road wheels.
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Sep 16, 2015 00:34
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Alright, so I just got home, checked the resting voltage and it's sitting at 11.74. So clearly the battery is hosed. Batteries don't just discharge on their own, though, so something is probably turbofucked in the charging system. Is it:
Stay tuned for the next exciting installment! (It would stay running after the jumper cables were disconnected, it took touching the throttle to kill it.)
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Sep 16, 2015 02:41
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I'm voting bad alternator with with side of over discharged / hosed battery.
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Sep 16, 2015 02:52
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Enourmo posted:Batteries don't just discharge on their own, though  actually lead acid batteries do slowly discharge, but typically it takes several months to drop substantially. You are correct that the battery is hosed though, typically once a battery drops below 12v it's done. Since you have to replace the battery anyways I would do so and then have a parts store run their charging system diagnostics, preferably without leaving the parking lot (buy battery, put in car, have them run diagnostics.)
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Sep 16, 2015 03:24
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I'm curious what are goons thoughts on 'sipping the clutch' (besides starting from a stop/1st gear)? I've been reading a bunch of articles/forums who argue for and against it. How far do you take it? Should you fully release the clutch before applying gas? Also am I terrible for never downshifting when coming to a complete stop? I tend to just press both clutch and brake until I fully stop, then shift into neutral and let go of the clutch. This is on a 2004 Rav4 Away all Goats fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 04:56
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Away all Goats posted:I'm curious what are goons thoughts on 'sipping the clutch' (besides starting from a stop/1st gear)? As long as you don't slip the clutch for more than a second and don't lug the engine, you're doing fine. You don't need to downshift to stop, but it does improve your fuel consumption a little bit, and is useful for descending hills. If you're in a panic braking situation, just push the clutch and let the brakes do their job; they'll be smoother than your engine braking (which is critical on a slippery surface or just maximum braking), you won't stall the engine, which allows you to focus on avoiding obstacles. If you don't match the revs perfectly for downshifting, you are causing extra wear to your synchronizers if you downshift a lot without finesse. Which will lead to you having to match the revs or get your transmission serviced. I've driven a vehicle with bad synchros, it sucks.
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Sep 16, 2015 06:26
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