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That does sound like a pickle but the new and the red are just going to be getting into good shape. See if your gym or a club based in new York is taking a trip. It would be a lot of fun for sure. The climbing season in CO basically goes all year so I am pretty lucky there.
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Sep 15, 2015 18:47
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I've heard that Central Park actually has a little bit of bouldering; otherwise you can find some climbing buddies and go up to the Gunks?
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Sep 15, 2015 19:13
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SplitDestiny posted:Last week we attempted to climb the Palisade Traverse, which is 5 14'er peaks in one day. We got 3 and it was insanely hard. I don't know how people do all 5 car to car. That looks awesome, Alpine style climbing is so good. Completely destroys you though, hard and tiring is right.
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Sep 15, 2015 19:44
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SplitDestiny posted:Last week we attempted to climb the Palisade Traverse, which is 5 14'er peaks in one day. We got 3 and it was insanely hard. I don't know how people do all 5 car to car. Oh my God, Matthes Crest looks so good to scramble over. That all looks incredible. I think I've trapped a nerve in my shoulder or neck (again) - I've had mild shooting pains down my right arm on and off for about a week. Taking a break from climbing until it hopefully sorts itself out. I had the same thing earlier this year and it lasted a couple of months then went away. I just overdid it indoors last week, I'm training for a trip to Spain next month and really wish I had taken it easier 
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Sep 15, 2015 19:55
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Apparently a guy at my gym took a ~40 ft groundfall last night. He was using his own rope and it apparently straight up snapped.
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Sep 16, 2015 06:05
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Pedestrian Xing posted:Apparently a guy at my gym took a ~40 ft groundfall last night. He was using his own rope and it apparently straight up snapped. Read about this on MP. Will be interested to see if there's any analysis of the mode of failure. Sounds like the rope had been kept in a rope bag in a car trunk for years -- could be some sort of chemical corrosion from leaky exhaust or who-knows-what-else might have been in the trunk. Good reminder to be cautious not just of the obvious visible signs of wear to your hard goods, but also the more insidious, environmental factors! Best wishes to the climber in his recovery. turevidar posted:Fall is the best time of the year to be outside - why put it off for a year? The climbers at your gym can probably point you towards local cliffs and boulders with climbs in your difficulty range. I'm not going to say that new climbers should only climb outdoors after waiting [x amount of time], but I would like to offer a more conservative opinion here. Real rock is going to be waiting for you, whether you start climbing outdoors tomorrow, next month, next year, in 2020, etc. There's nothing wrong with honing your skills indoors, especially with regards to belaying. In general, the stakes are a lot higher for any outdoor climbing, and while it's easy to learn the fundamentals of belaying, it takes serious practice and commitment to become a competent belayer. If you really want to get outside, I'd recommend trying to find a mentor (probably via your gym, assuming you don't already have someone you can trust as a mentor) that can take you under their wing, rather than joining a meetup/social group. It's a bit a matter of luck in terms of finding a mentor -- it's mostly just being outgoing and willing to chat it up with strangers, but also I think you need to be able to evaluate the competency of your mentor to a degree. Outdoor climbing experience is a big plus, but not sufficient in itself (there are plenty of incompetent climbers that have been at it for many years). I'd say once you're getting more comfortable with belaying, the best way to identify a mentor is to look around at the gym regulars and take notice of who seems to be a really attentive, mindful (lead) belayer. They pay attention to their climber, anticipate when to feed/take slack, give soft catches, don't go hands-free on a gri-gri, etc. My bet is that, in general, the best belayer will make the best mentor. Don't get me wrong -- climbing outdoors is the best, and if you're really interested in climbing, it's the way to go. But TRing and bouldering in a gym for a few months really isn't going to give you the appropriate level of training/competency to be a moderately self-sufficient outdoor climber.
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Sep 16, 2015 07:41
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:*snip* don't go hands-free on a gri-gri *snip* Argh I saw this in the gym yesterday. It blows my mind that people think that just because a device is automatic that means you don't have to pay any attention to belay technique. I'm perfectly okay with the trend of more people using grigris as long as it's used as extra security instead of a replacement of good technique, but unfortunately I see the latter a lot more than I'd like. In happier news, I climbed my third 7+ (5.12-ish?) yesterday! I still can't send them without falling and/or calling for a take, but I'm excited that I'm making progress. My goal is to send an 8- (5.13a-ish) by the end of the year.
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Sep 16, 2015 10:39
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SplitDestiny posted:Last week we attempted to climb the Palisade Traverse, which is 5 14'er peaks in one day. We got 3 and it was insanely hard. I don't know how people do all 5 car to car. Crest is best! Nice climbs. Saw this circulating about some climbers killed on the Barre des Ecrins. We had to run away from a falling serac on this face last year, it was pretty terrifying. 
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Sep 16, 2015 19:41
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I'm very new to climbing, took a basic outdoors climbing course last weekend, and I'm considering if I should go to a climbing meet that's being held over the weekend like 2 hours away and try to hook up with somebody to climb with. There's going to be 50-100 people there supposedly. I suppose that everyone will be better than me but maybe I can find someone to belay me on toprope anyways? What do you say goons? Also, Stockholm climber dude, are you going to Tunaberg this weekend?
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Sep 17, 2015 08:26
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Went to reel rock 10 last night. Highly recommended, it was very good.
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Sep 20, 2015 00:26
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Going to Boulder for work next week. Hopefully I'll have time to climb. What are options for bouldering and/or sport?
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Sep 20, 2015 02:04
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Tons of options right in Boulder and Golden for trad, sport, or bouldering. What are you looking for and when?
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Sep 21, 2015 02:19
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i81icu812 posted:Going to Boulder for work next week. Hopefully I'll have time to climb. What are options for bouldering and/or sport? Depends on the situation. PM if you want options.
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Sep 21, 2015 04:08
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Placing gear is fun. Bush whacking to find crags not as fun. Got on a 5.4, 5.6, and 5.7. Built a bomber anchor on the 5.4 (at least according to my mentor) and just need to work on the timely part of the equation. Built a neat anchor by slinging some boulders on the 5.7. Then I worked an 11a sort route. Didn't go great but I sent it after one fall. I was having trouble reading the route and think I could go clean. I would say the line might go a bit harder for short people but what can you do. Climbing is fun, I am sore and the approach of gym season makes me sad (although skiing season makes me extremely happy).
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Sep 21, 2015 22:06
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drat I love the fall. Maple finally has some friction. Scoops AKA 51  
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Sep 21, 2015 22:22
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tortilla_chip posted:drat I love the fall. Maple finally has some friction. No way that's a goon...
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Sep 21, 2015 22:23
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12c drat man. Did you send it?
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Sep 21, 2015 22:50
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No that was like pitch 8 for the day. I was pretty fried.
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Sep 21, 2015 22:54
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gamera009 posted:Depends on the situation. PM if you want options. spwrozek posted:Tons of options right in Boulder and Golden for trad, sport, or bouldering. What are you looking for and when? No PMs, username at gmail works. Would like to go bouldering or do sport in the 5.10-5.11 range, probably afternoons or evenings, or on Friday. Or expand my collection of climbing gym t-shirts.
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Sep 22, 2015 18:26
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tortilla_chip posted:drat I love the fall. Maple finally has some friction. Is that a knee bar pad?
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Sep 22, 2015 22:37
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Yes... it is Maple after all.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:39
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i81icu812 posted:No PMs, username at gmail works. Username at gmail here as well. Feel free to email. I can probably do something in the evenings, at The Spot gym. I am picking up my yearly 6 month pass for the fall/winter.
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Sep 23, 2015 00:00
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Climb with your knees, not your hands. Really saves the pump. In other news, started bolting my first route on the weekend and it's giving me an appreciation for well cleaned routes.
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Sep 23, 2015 03:18
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There's a crazy good sale on at Gear Coop at the moment - you need the link from the email they sent out though: Here's mine It's not an affiliate code, I promise. They have a bunch of 5.10s at 50% off, and most La Sportiva is 40% off, as well as other gear. I was bummed because I bought some used Team 5.10s from Amazon but the sizing was way smaller than I'm used to from 5.10. Then I found some Hiangles for less than I paid for the Teams, and they're gonna get here just in time for my trip to take the kids bouldering/top roping next weekend. I almost bought some Dragons too, but I can't quite justify another pair of non-velcros right now
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Sep 28, 2015 06:33
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Apparently climbing is being reconsidered for the 2020 Olympics, along with seven other sports.
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Sep 28, 2015 13:46
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IrvingWashington posted:There's a crazy good sale on at Gear Coop at the moment - you need the link from the email they sent out though: Thanks much! I just picked up a pair of Hiangles...hopefully the sizing is similar to the 5.10 Rogues,which was my first shoe. I also have a pair of Scarpa Boostics which are great but a little loose in the heel and starting to get beat up.
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Sep 29, 2015 00:31
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IrvingWashington posted:There's a crazy good sale on at Gear Coop at the moment - you need the link from the email they sent out though: Hey, thanks for this. Bought a new puffy.
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Sep 29, 2015 16:54
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Awesome, saving money is a good thing. Usually... I picked up some cheapish holds from ETCH (via Amazon) at the start of the year. One broke clean off immediately, and when I checked it out, it had no washer, so I wasn't surprised, and chalked it up to a miscast. Turns out multiple holds had no washer - today when inspecting the wall I ended up with this:   I checked a few others and there are more without washers - I'd thought they were molded into the hold material but apparently not, so tomorrow I'll be taking all my ETCH holds off, whee. I've contacted the company to see if this is some weird batch of different holds that were all faulty, or if it's just their policy to not include washers, but in the meantime, I'd suggest anyone looking for new holds steer clear.
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Sep 30, 2015 07:19
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IrvingWashington posted:Awesome, saving money is a good thing. Usually... Kilter/Teknik or bust. Basically, I only buy Kilter or Tekniks after trying Etch/Atomik/Metolius. Nicros is good, but expensive as gently caress. I like that the holds are more stiff and the urethane doesn't strip paint off the wall as much. Metolius feels fine, but still strips off surfacing.
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Sep 30, 2015 12:25
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Gotta rep kingdom hold cause they are local ish and because Louie and them are awesome he's also vendor for kilter so can't go wrong there.
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Sep 30, 2015 12:46
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Repping my 'local' So Ill folks - their holds are urethane too - my wall is basically Metolius macros and the So Ill bolt starter set at this point. I built an add-on to put up two of their hangboards too. One day I'll make it to their wall. One day 
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Sep 30, 2015 19:50
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Did a fun canyoneering trip to Christopher Creek near Payson, AZ. Here's a video I edited together: https://youtu.be/2s5yhMz3hvY
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Oct 1, 2015 00:49
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IrvingWashington posted:Awesome, saving money is a good thing. Usually... Have you tried countersunk bolts? Usually when there's no washer it's because you need countersunk bolts.
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Oct 2, 2015 05:19
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ConspicuousEvil posted:Have you tried countersunk bolts? Usually when there's no washer it's because you need countersunk bolts. I haven't. ETCH got back to me and said this is a really weird problem; they think maybe someone is making counterfeit holds and selling them through Amazon. I just used the bolts they came with.
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Oct 2, 2015 05:24
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Got three hours of trad climbing instruction from Tommy Caldwell today... Pretty awesome time!
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Oct 4, 2015 00:38
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Any thoughts on a new harness, sport and trad, adjustable leg loops desired. Probably prefer BD or petzl but open to others. Hopefully once I narrow it down I can find some locally to try out.
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Oct 5, 2015 21:00
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I have an Adjama, it's more comfortable than the very old BD Momentum it replaced. The back pair of gear loops lie flat, it takes a little while to get used to if you're used to loops that hang out.
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Oct 5, 2015 21:15
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I have looked at that one and it seems pretty nice, my biggest concern is the back loops seem like a pita to get gear off of. Not an issue sport climbing but trad seems like it could get annoying.
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Oct 5, 2015 21:26
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I really dig my Misty Mountain. Neptune has them to try on. They have the best selection around if you want to go hang in a bunch of em.
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Oct 5, 2015 23:28
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  Bishop! Ps uploaded with my phone can't tell if pictures are embedded right. Let me know they are too big so I can fix. jackchaos fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 23:53
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