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atomicthumbs posted:looks just It took a bit of work knocking them into shape, and then there are the surge marks from the hangers that unequivocally tell you've over-developed and been a little too violent during development.
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Sep 14, 2015 23:55
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Spedman posted:It took a bit of work knocking them into shape, and then there are the surge marks from the hangers that unequivocally tell you've over-developed and been a little too violent during development. Are you hand rolling, tray developing or rotary?
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Sep 15, 2015 01:56
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Tank and hangers, if you get the development times right (usually not a problem) and don't agitate like an idiot you don't get surge marks. I built a dark tank/box for the hangers myself out of black acrylic, so you just pour chems in and out of the spout like a Patterson tank, and agitate by rotating the box 90deg on its side left and right a couple times a minute. The tank I built can take 4 8x10s or 16 4x5s at once.
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Sep 15, 2015 02:18
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Oh yeah beg your pardon I remember you seeing that. Someone needs to fix the CL81 design.
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Sep 15, 2015 02:31
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what the gently caress posted:Oh yeah beg your pardon I remember you seeing that. What's the problem with the CL81 design? I got to try an 8x10 and developed a few sheets with it, and it seems to have worked out fine for me. I have the inversion lid, though, and using it that way is a bit effort-intensive.
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Sep 15, 2015 02:42
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Yond Cassius posted:What's the problem with the CL81 design? I got to try an 8x10 and developed a few sheets with it, and it seems to have worked out fine for me. I have the inversion lid, though, and using it that way is a bit effort-intensive. I've talked about it before. I mean it's really good for convenience if you don't have a dark room or room to use trays. I've only developed HP5+ and Foma200 in it. The Foma film gets absolutely scratched to poo poo when you insert into the ridges on the long sides of the sheet. The HP5+ I noticed some annoying un-even development alone the long sides where it's inserted and minor scratching. I guess the only big improvement I could think of would be having those slots on the top and bottom made out of a less abrasive material like soft rubber or something. It's ok if you can do a crop. I used it a few weeks ago for the first time in ages and just cracked the shits. I'd probably recommend using it on one of those little rolling machines you can buy (forget the brand name)
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Sep 15, 2015 02:53
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cool things about art school: checking this out for the weekend, for free
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Sep 18, 2015 20:08
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 Untitled by Simon Chetrit, on Flickr
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Sep 18, 2015 20:09
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atomicthumbs posted:cool things about art school: checking this out for the weekend, for free Daaamn
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Sep 18, 2015 20:22
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atomicthumbs posted:cool things about art school: checking this out for the weekend, for free What happens if it happens that it "gets lost"?
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Sep 18, 2015 22:52
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bobmarleysghost posted:What happens if it happens that it "gets lost"? i pay $1,800 to replace it
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Sep 18, 2015 23:10
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Sep 19, 2015 01:12
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 Clementi by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Sep 19, 2015 08:12
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I went out today to try doing an 8x10 triptych of the zincworks factory here.. I'm using a new collodion recipe with Ether in it so it's a bit different to what I'm used to. These are pretty overdeveloped. Even with the varnish they're way too bright. 16 seconds which is the standard dev time for positives. I think I just need to stop development when I see the shadows coming in rather than counting off the full 16 seconds. My collodion and developer pouring are improving substantially, except on the far left plate there was still a bit of developer on the plate when it went into the fixer so the sky went a bit blotchy.. I wiped these plates off and am going to go and try the same shot again tomorrow with a longer lens (420mm as opposed to 360mm). The detail is loving incredible. Great to get back into it after spending the last 3 weeks at sea. All up this took me probably about 2 hours to do, and the light conditions were changing constantly which was a pain (patchy clouds) Spedman: I figured out how to clean varnished images off plates (I couldn't find any info online). I just filled a tray with denatured alcohol and about a tbsp of bicarb soda. The varnish and collodion just rubbed straight off with the fingers. THey were a little greasy afterwards though so I've got them soaking in some nitric acid overnight. Goof to know if you want to recycle glass with old lovely images you aren't as happy with anymore. Apologies for lovely iphone pano/warpy/out-of-focus pic. Hopefully tomorrow's effort is more fruitful. 
Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 10:01
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I'm also looking for a good tripod head for my 8x10 (that could potentially support 11x14) I got a second hand one real cheap but the clamps on it are making GBS threads themselves and it's just becoming an absolute pain to use. If anyone's got some recommendations I'd love to know. I'm not too fussed if it's a ball head or 3-way, but i don't want to spend a shitload of money. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 12:32
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what the gently caress posted:I went out today to try doing an 8x10 triptych of the zincworks factory here.. I'm using a new collodion recipe with Ether in it so it's a bit different to what I'm used to. These are pretty overdeveloped. Even with the varnish they're way too bright. 16 seconds which is the standard dev time for positives. I think I just need to stop development when I see the shadows coming in rather than counting off the full 16 seconds. Firstly, that Turnbull avatar is very off-putting you've gotta stay out of Auspol. A 3 way head is SO much better for a heavy camera compared to a ball head. Thanks for the tip with cleaning the plates, I tend to just use black acrylic which is cheap and essentially disposable and requires literally no effort to get a new plate prepared, just peel the cover just before pouring. And those plates look fantastic, you're really getting good, much better than me! I'm making a very portable 4x5 changing box in the next week or so. Basically I'm getting foldable, zippered, nylon shopping basket, cut a hole in the top and tape some red acrylic for a window, and hack up one of my small changing bags to use as light tight arm inserts. I'll be able to cart small amounts of chemicals about in the basket then sit it on my lap and prepare the plates in the field easily.
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Sep 19, 2015 13:18
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Spedman posted:
gently caress that sounds awesome. That kind of portability is super enviable, and perfect for someone like you who lives in Melbourne which is pretty flat, I'd imagine you could put that on the back of your fixie and cruise the streets of Brunswick no worries! But that is awesome. One of the guys I speak to from the LFF forums has a 4x5 setup that he's put into a big hiking backpack, that essentially makes him look like a backpacker but he's able to take 4x5 wetplate on big hikes with him if he carries his tripod in his hands. There are some fantastic portability options out there. I hope to see more of yours soon... How does the black acrylic going for re-use? Does it get scratched easily of you clean it? And yeah... the turnbull avatar... I have no idea who did that. Wasn't me. I'm Not a Lib supporter!
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Sep 19, 2015 13:29
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what the gently caress posted:gently caress that sounds awesome. That kind of portability is super enviable, and perfect for someone like you who lives in Melbourne which is pretty flat, I'd imagine you could put that on the back of your fixie and cruise the streets of Brunswick no worries! But that is awesome. One of the guys I speak to from the LFF forums has a 4x5 setup that he's put into a big hiking backpack, that essentially makes him look like a backpacker but he's able to take 4x5 wetplate on big hikes with him if he carries his tripod in his hands. There are some fantastic portability options out there. I hope to see more of yours soon... I noticed a buch of guys in the AFL thread with the same avatar, I think someone just got a bit happy with the spill result and blew a bunch of cash. The acrylic is quite robust, it takes a bit to scratch it, so if you're wiping it with paper towels you'll have no worries. Plus, its light and you don't have to worry about it cracking/shattering, and you can get it in a bunch of colours too so if you want to do negatives or ruby wet plates you can. With the 4x5 plates, I'll just be happy to drive somewhere, park the car and go for a wander and just take 20mins to shoot and plate and move on. (Having said that, I do own a fixie, and live in a neighbouring suburb to Brunswick!). That grow tent I have was good in that it worked but was such a pain in the arse to put up and breakdown, it really turned me off the whole process. I think this little dark box will fix that.
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Sep 19, 2015 14:04
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crap nerd fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Sep 19, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 15:56
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This is awesome.
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Sep 19, 2015 17:48
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  It came with a bunch of lenses and accessories I don't want/need, so I'll probably be making a buy/sell thread post soon!
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Sep 19, 2015 18:28
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Helicity posted:This is awesome. 
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Sep 19, 2015 19:02
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MrBlandAverage posted:
Nice! I just got one as well. Still need to get the wood grip, though I'll probably buy it from keh and relatively soon.
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Sep 19, 2015 20:32
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The wood grip sucks rear end, use your left hand to hold underneath the lens and fire the shutter with your right.
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Sep 19, 2015 20:43
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ansel autisms posted:The wood grip sucks rear end, use your left hand to hold underneath the lens and fire the shutter with your right. But it looks so pretty... Honestly, that's what I've been doing. I had no intention of stopping since that's how I hold my cameras anyway.
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Sep 19, 2015 20:50
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I assumed the wood grip would make it easier to lug around when you weren't shooting.
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Sep 19, 2015 23:27
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The grip is the best thing about the 67. I'm actually thinking of getting another 67 body just so I can use the wood grip on it, since my 6x7 body is broken and it would cost as much as a new body to fix it
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Sep 20, 2015 01:04
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What's the go-to strap for a MF rangefinder?
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Sep 20, 2015 01:15
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The wood grip is great if you care more about how your camera looks than actually using it
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Sep 20, 2015 01:34
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The grip is poo poo when actually taking photos but it's awesome for carrying the stupid heavy thing around.
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Sep 20, 2015 01:38
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Yeah, I walked around today taking photos with a Domke Gripper strap on it and no handle and I think I'm going to keep the handle off.
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Sep 20, 2015 01:44
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MrBlandAverage posted:Yeah, I walked around today taking photos with a Domke Gripper strap on it and no handle and I think I'm going to keep the handle off. Helicity posted:What's the go-to strap for a MF rangefinder? This strap is seriously great, I wish someplace in Canada sold them or I had bought more when the exchange rate wasn't poo poo
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Sep 20, 2015 02:08
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ansel autisms posted:The wood grip sucks rear end, use your left hand to hold underneath the lens and fire the shutter with your right. the wood grip owns, especially if you get a custom right-hand grip on ebay to match it i don't have a right-hand grip but what I do have is  STRAP LUGS one end of strap attached to the lower grip lug, one end attached to the upper right lug, for tactical street shooting i need to get a WLF for it edit: oh yeah I shot two rolls of portra 400 and 0.2 rolls of portra 160 with the Mamiya 7 and it's pretty nice except for the whole thing where you have to manually reset the light shield after changing the lens and the only indication you didn't is that the camera doesn't take a photo atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 07:10
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Spedman posted:I noticed a buch of guys in the AFL thread with the same avatar, I think someone just got a bit happy with the spill result and blew a bunch of cash. My eskimo tent was a complete fail. A friggin $360+ fail. Really pissy about that. I'm sick of wearing a headtorch in my van darkroom so I've ordered a big sheet of rubylith to cover the rear window, it will be heaps brighter and much easier to see what I'm doing. Where do you get the acrylic from? Does it come pre-cut or do you cut it yourself? I don't know where to get trophy plate from in Aus I'd try that for sure, e: actually I think Foon's down in Wanthaggi might be able to get it as he shoots tintypes. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 07:49
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I have learned of something that I never knew existed and now want very badly: the Graflex Combat Graphic, a 6x7 rangefinder:   also came in a civilian version:  it takes 70mm perforated film (which is why the civilian version is called the Graphic 70)  winding is by spring motor drive, which will advance 9 frames in single shot mode before you have to wind it again. body is made of magnesium (but still weighs 5.5 lbs). atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 08:36
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atomicthumbs posted:I have learned of something that I never knew existed and now want very badly: the Graflex Combat Graphic, a 6x7 rangefinder: I love how the flash comes in camouflage green as well but not the gigantic loving lens
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Sep 20, 2015 09:01
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Spedman posted:
Another option you could think about would be using the boot of your car? Just get some black-out fabric and fashion up some kind of walls or something with a rubylith window to look into.. and the arms/sleeves sewn into it... kind of like those bastard-boxes.. Maybe on a zipper or velcro setup so you could remove it if you wanted to use your boot for normal car things. You could do bigger plates, then and probably be a little easier than a little shopping basket.
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Sep 20, 2015 11:40
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what the gently caress posted:My eskimo tent was a complete fail. A friggin $360+ fail. Really pissy about that. I'm sick of wearing a headtorch in my van darkroom so I've ordered a big sheet of rubylith to cover the rear window, it will be heaps brighter and much easier to see what I'm doing. I saw a bunch of people using those eskimo tents, and the price just turned me off of from trying, the grow tents work straight out of the box with no mods, but is a pain to setup. Trophy plate you can get from O'Brien Engineering, pretty easily and cheaply: http://www.nameplatesengineering.com.au And I usually order the acrylic from these guys, and order the thinnest sheets possible (usually 2 or 3mm I think): from http://www.acrylicsonline.com.au You can cut the trophy plate and acrylic the same way using a stanley knife and a ruler, then bending it back and for the until it breaks with the trophy plate, or just bending it until it snaps with the acrylic. what the gently caress posted:Another option you could think about would be using the boot of your car? Just get some black-out fabric and fashion up some kind of walls or something with a rubylith window to look into.. and the arms/sleeves sewn into it... kind of like those bastard-boxes.. Maybe on a zipper or velcro setup so you could remove it if you wanted to use your boot for normal car things. You could do bigger plates, then and probably be a little easier than a little shopping basket. I got the idea for the shopping basked from the BastardBox designs. I had thought about doing that to the boot of my lovely corolla, but I don't really want to be tied to my car, and I want to be able to go for a short hike and be able to process the plates wherever I am.
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Sep 20, 2015 12:20
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The only thing that kind of puts me off the trophy plate is I heard that you can only re-use them once or twice because of the coating.. (is it asphaltum I wonder)? I've reused my glass plates heaps which I guess is the beauty of it but that black glass isn't cheap.. Is this the stuff you mean? http://www.nameplatesengineering.com.au/category/Coated-Aluminium/83
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Sep 20, 2015 12:48
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Whelp, I bought a Koni Omega 6x7:
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Sep 21, 2015 05:12
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