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iv46vi posted:Acura remotes will roll windows down when you press unlock twice and then hold it down. Haha yep! That worked, even the sunroof. What a strange feature.
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Sep 21, 2015 03:49
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Pretty Boy Floyd posted:Do rubber – better regretting not going far enough than going too far, in my opinion. And in a daily driver, less NVH > more performance – how much are you going to push it anyway? Yeah I'm going to go rubber. With the miles on my car, I probably should be cracking open the rear subframe just to check things out every 50k anyways.
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Sep 21, 2015 04:03
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iv46vi posted:Acura remotes will roll windows down when you press unlock twice and then hold it down. Fun fact: On most (all?) models you can't roll them back up with the remote (unless you do a small wiring hacks to make it go) Supposedly it's so that you don't pinch/cut/whatever anything that might be in the window after it gets rolled down and since you'd be doing it by remote you might not notice it.
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Sep 21, 2015 04:37
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ghetto wormhole posted:Haha yep! That worked, even the sunroof. What a strange feature. The intended use is to cool a hot car quickly, say after it's been baking in an open parking lot all day.
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Sep 21, 2015 05:55
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Mate's E46 has developed a new and exciting behavior: while driving, the CEL comes on, and the brakes become "hard". He describes it as when you drive along and kill the engine. Any idea?
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Sep 21, 2015 07:04
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He's losing the power assist for the brakes. I don't know specifics on that vehicle, but step one is to pull the codes that are causing the CEL. That should help.
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Sep 21, 2015 07:36
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2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 4x4 136k miles I've been trying to get this thing in decent enough shape to be a daily driver/dirt road capable vehicle and I've replaced the entire front end suspension and just this past weekend the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel. About 2 months ago the truck started having trouble getting up to highway speed or up hills, and idles rough. I had a check engine error code for Mass airflow so I replaced that & air filter and the error went away. I put in some fuel injector cleaner but it didn't change anything. The clutch was going (I've driven stick forever and gone through a few on my old cars), so I knew that might be part of the problem. Replaced that, and while it's better I am still experiencing a surging/struggle to keep up RPMs, especially up hills. In neutral the engine revs fine and doesn't make any weird noises. My friends that know cars say fuel system. I just bought a new fuel filter so I'm gonna put that in it but if that doesn't do anything where should I go with this? I'm pretty new to cars but I can turn a wrench. Do fuel pumps fail like this? I've never really learned about what happens when the different parts of fuel delivery fail.
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Sep 21, 2015 17:32
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I'd say worry about "what if this doesn't work" if and when it doesn't work. I'm sure something will change changing from a 136k fuel filter to a fresh one.
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Sep 22, 2015 00:15
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Godholio posted:He's losing the power assist for the brakes. I don't know specifics on that vehicle, but step one is to pull the codes that are causing the CEL. That should help. To add to this, if there's any codes that could come up from a sudden inlet of unmetered air (i.e. a vacuum leak), all the more reason to suspect the booster.
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Sep 22, 2015 01:04
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I'm looking at getting some tires for my truck. The OEM specs are LT245/75 R16 E, and I'm looking at some used tires (Really don't drive the truck enough for brand new IMO). Is there a max +/- on the width I can go, or should I stick to the OEM width?
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Sep 22, 2015 01:16
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Depends. Are you literally too poor to afford a new set of tires, or are you just trying to save a buck on the only thing between your car and the pavement?
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Sep 22, 2015 02:07
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Enourmo posted:I'd say worry about "what if this doesn't work" if and when it doesn't work. I'm sure something will change changing from a 136k fuel filter to a fresh one. Something changed! I now have a nice fresh new P0302 (misfire on cyl 2) error code to fling parts at! Actually from some light reading it looks like my first order of business is to pull spark plugs and check them (might as well replace), and then if those are fine to take it in for a fuel injector resistance/cylinder compression test. Does that sound about right?
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Sep 22, 2015 02:29
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If you're pulling the plugs already, you may as well rent a compression tester and do it yourself. After that, a quick test would be to swap the injector to a different cylinder and see if the code follows it.
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Sep 22, 2015 02:33
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Friar Zucchini posted:Depends. Are you literally too poor to afford a new set of tires, or are you just trying to save a buck on the only thing between your car and the pavement? It looks like I'm going to have to do them in pairs and new, but it would be nice to save a few hundred bucks on some decent used tires. Again, right now I use the truck to go get some stuff once in a while (until we get some finances in order then we can start hauling crap for the house again), and drive it to work once a week just to run it. This would be until (again) some financial stuff is straightened out a bit and I can get new tires on the truck all around.
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Sep 22, 2015 02:35
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lwoodio posted:06 SS/SC cobalt has steering wheel shake and front end vibration between 60-75 mph. I have gotten new tires (balanced), brakes and rotors to try to fix it, but the problem persists. Both wheels spin freely in the air. Driver's front CV boot makes a slight rubber squeaking as the rubber flexes as it turns. There is no play in the wheels when I jack it up and twist from top to bottom and side to side. I might go back to the tire shop and ask for a rebalance, but the old tires did the same thing. Looked into this some more. Right front wheel has a bit of radial runout when I jack it up and let it spin. Rear control arm bushing looks somewhat shabby. Would a bad rear CAB cause steering wheel shake and vibration? Pics of suspension and steering parts: Rear CAB  Front CAB  Sway bar end links  Tie Rod end 
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Sep 22, 2015 03:05
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2006 Ford Focus ZX5 SE, 93,000 miles. Passenger seat doesn't seem to detect occupants anymore. It used to be that the seatbelt idiot light would stay lit if a passenger was present and their seatbelt unbuckled when the car was moving, but no longer. For a while, it was occasionally keeping the "passenger airbag off" light (in the middle of the dash) lit even with an adult passenger present, and it's only supposed to keep that lit if there's something light in the passenger seat (like a kid in a carseat). Now that light turns off shortly after I turn the car on, which is the same behavior as if the seat is empty. I checked the connections under the passenger seat and they seemed fine, but I didn't get in close to inspect each wire. No warning lights are present, and the seatbelt/airbag lights seem to operate normally otherwise (lit briefly when ignition is turned on, turning off with all the rest). Car does not have side airbags. Anyone have any guidance? Anything else to check before taking it in? (Would this be a dealer-specific system or would any mechanic be fine?) It's rather troubling not knowing if my passenger airbag will go off if needed. I like the people that sit there.
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Sep 22, 2015 03:05
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Friar Zucchini posted:Depends. Are you literally too poor to afford a new set of tires, or are you just trying to save a buck on the only thing between your car and the pavement?
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Sep 22, 2015 11:57
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Speaking of which. Driving at 70mph, I ran clean over a large metal lump (I started to think about a sudden change of direction, but by the time I remembered that the Saab did successfully pass the elk test, it was too late) About the size of half a house brick and lumpy and I went clean over it with the low-pros and it made a heck of a thump. No visible damage apart from a couple of small chunks that look like you could squeeze the top of a pencil in them. Drives fine. Proof that cars are stronger than you imagine or a ticking time bomb till a blowout?
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Sep 22, 2015 13:05
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:2006 Ford Focus ZX5 SE, 93,000 miles. Passenger seat doesn't seem to detect occupants anymore. There will be a pressure pad thingy in the seat bench where your rear end goes, they gently caress out sometimes. Pretty easy to replace yourself if you're willing to take the seat out and apart.
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Sep 22, 2015 19:57
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spog posted:Speaking of which. I'd make sure to check both the outside and inside of the tire for bubbles. A lot of people look on the outside but don't check the inside. A bubble is definitely a time bomb waiting to go off.
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Sep 22, 2015 21:29
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:I'd make sure to check both the outside and inside of the tire for bubbles. A lot of people look on the outside but don't check the inside. A bubble is definitely a time bomb waiting to go off. Do you mean both external sidewalls, or have the tyre removed from the rim and checked on the inside?
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Sep 22, 2015 22:04
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My 2008 Nissan Sentra (~82K miles, stick shift) has developed a problem with stalling. Let's say I'm stopped at a traffic light; the engine is idling (~750 rpm), when suddenly (about 10-20% of the time) the revs drop and the engine stalls. A bit more creepily, it's even done this a few times when I'm getting off the highway; I put the clutch all the way down as I slow down for the offramp and the revs, instead of dropping to idle, bottom out and the car stalls (while I'm still moving at 50mph). Always, though, I can restart the engine and it goes right back to running normally. At first, I thought it might be the A/C kicking in and drawing too much from the engine when it's idle, but it happens even when the A/C is off. What's going on with my baby?
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Sep 22, 2015 22:25
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stray posted:My 2008 Nissan Sentra (~82K miles, stick shift) has developed a problem with stalling. Bad IAC or a bad TPS.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:41
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Question: I have a 2011 Honda Fit that I might sell at some point. One flaw is that the steering wheel is off-kilter by about five degrees or less. The car does track very straight after an alignment, I don't need to fight with the steering wheel to keep it going straight down the road. I'm assuming this is something that can be corrected in an alignment - will having the steering wheel slightly off-center cause any serious loss of value in the car if I trade it in?
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Sep 22, 2015 22:57
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Three-Phase posted:Question: I have a 2011 Honda Fit that I might sell at some point. They didn't align that when they did your alignment? It should be part of the procedure. If this was done recently, I would go in and bitch until they align your steering wheel too.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:10
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It's something that SHOULD HAVE BEEN taken care of in the course of an alignment. You had a lazy tech. And nobody cares about things like that on a trade in at a dealership.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:25
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Thanks for the info, first off. Here's the weird bit - there's a before and after alignment printout for the steering wheel - on the printout it shows that it was corrected, but it clearly hasn't. That almost makes me wonder if they just faked the alignment, but I think it's probably more a mistake (or like you said, laziness) than malice. They checked the tire wear, it was even and about 7/32 for each tire (I had these oddball Michelin Premiere A/S that start at 8.5/32 so that's actually pretty good.) One other alignment question - some places put the car on a lift and use a machine to check the alignment, but others do the alignment check when the car is sitting on the ground. Is it true that you cannot get an accurate alignment check unless the car is on a lift? What sucks is I like these guys at this repair shop, they've been honest and polite in the past so I really don't want to just barge in and shout "WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH YOU, YOU STUPID DICKS!" I'll have to be polite but professionally assertive on this one. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 22, 2015 23:31
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Three-Phase posted:Is it true that you cannot get an accurate alignment check unless the car is on a lift?
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Sep 22, 2015 23:33
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Krakkles posted:No, the lift makes it easier to work on the car, that's all. Gotcha - this one dealership near me has an alignment they do when you bring your car into the "holding bay", but they said it isn't guaranteed good because the floor isn't even. I've had it indicate out of alignment once when I was there, I took it to the repair shop in question (the one that didn't center my steering wheel correctly), where they have a much newer alignment system, and they said it was well within spec. There never was any evidence of alignment being really bad like pulling or odd tire wear. That gave me pause. Call me mechanically declined. 
Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 22, 2015 23:35
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A Toyota dealership here has alignment rigs pointed at parking spots in their service area, presumably so they can throw a set of reflectors on the car and upsell you. I don't see any way they could be repeatable enough to actually tell you anything, but inaccurate is probably going to show "OMG NEEDS ALIGNMENT" which is what they want anyway.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:44
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Three-Phase posted:Gotcha - this one dealership near me has an alignment they do when you bring your car into the "holding bay", but they said it isn't guaranteed good because the floor isn't even. I've had it indicate out of alignment once when I was there, I took it to the repair shop in question (the one that didn't center my steering wheel correctly), where they have a much newer alignment system, and they said it was well within spec. There never was any evidence of alignment being really bad like pulling or odd tire wear. I guess that's the other purpose of the lift, if a shop had an uneven floor. Though I'd wonder how level the lift is if they didn't bother to level the floor surface.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:A Toyota dealership here has alignment rigs pointed at parking spots in their service area, presumably so they can throw a set of reflectors on the car and upsell you. I don't see any way they could be repeatable enough to actually tell you anything, but inaccurate is probably going to show "OMG NEEDS ALIGNMENT" which is what they want anyway. That's exactly what this other place has. It's so bad that the people there even sheepishly admit that the results aren't totally accurate. We had a nasty winter in Cuyahoga County, you get potholes that absolutely ruin alignment and are hard to dodge. I guess in the old days you'd loosen a nut, adjust the steering wheel, and tighten the nut. Now you've got to do this whole alignment hokey-pokey to get it straightened, that sucks. You know what too, if I wuss out and get it fixed on my next alignment, I'll be used to it being off, so I'll need to ask them to align it with the steering wheel offset by a few degrees. 
Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 01:34
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Three-Phase posted:I guess in the old days you'd loosen a nut, adjust the steering wheel, and tighten the nut. Now you've got to do this whole alignment hokey-pokey to get it straightened, that sucks. In theory, the wheel should always already be straight if all alignment is correct and no parts are damaged or worn, but in practice, it's not unheard of to correct alignment, correct hardware, and still have to adjust the wheel to straight. Go have them straighten it. If they won't, don't get it aligned there again and take it somewhere that will.
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Sep 23, 2015 01:49
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:I'd make sure to check both the outside and inside of the tire for bubbles. A lot of people look on the outside but don't check the inside. A bubble is definitely a time bomb waiting to go off. spog posted:Do you mean both external sidewalls, or have the tyre removed from the rim and checked on the inside? Of course, now I have sobered up, I realise that getting a bubble inside a tyre is an indication of much serious problems than a mere debris hit. (i.e. I have a vacuum in my tyre)
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Sep 23, 2015 09:10
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spog posted:(i.e. I have a vacuum in my tyre) Remember, flat is (roughly) atmospheric pressure. Most of the structure of most tires (i.e. not run-flats) comes from the air pressure within the tire. A bubble is part of the structure which holds that pressure being unable to hold it in the desired shape. Like a hernia, sort of.
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Sep 23, 2015 14:03
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Krakkles posted:If you have a vacuum in your tire, the entire structure of the tire would be collapsed. I meant that the laws of physics have gone a bit wrong. EDIT Sorry if wasn't clear that I was being facetious about my previous stupidity spog fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 14:30
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So we just bought a 2015 Nissan Versa and it's time for its first oil change. Should I install a Fumoto valve in place of the original drain plug? Has anyone else used them? They seem a little gimmicky to me, but I do like a clean garage...
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Sep 23, 2015 21:35
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I haven't used one before, but they look neat. Depending on where your drain is, I'd be worried about the fitting sticking out further than the regular plug, potentially getting caught on something and damaged.
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Sep 23, 2015 22:03
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I have one installed on my 850, and I JUST did an oil change. Pros to the fumoto: No wrench required, no dropping the plug into the pan, no oil splattering everywhere when you pull the plug. You can start/stop draining whenever you want, which is handy if you take samples for blackstone or whatever. Cons: drain hole size is smaller than your plug, so it will drain a little slower (who cares, have another beer). On my vehicle, the oil pan doesn't go past the subframe, and the plug is kinda recessed into the back of the pan anyway, so I'm not worried about it getting caught/damaged by driving over stuff. Also it's a volvo, so it's not like I'm offroading or rallying with it. It's convenient and nifty, and I'm glad I installed it. Not strictly necessary though.
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Sep 24, 2015 00:28
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MRC48B posted:I have one installed on my 850, and I JUST did an oil change. Slip some cheap hose over it, route that hose right into your old oil jug. It's AWESOME.
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Sep 24, 2015 00:31
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