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Phone posted:The CX-3 is a Mazda3 with a lift. The CX-5 is solid, but it's a lot of car for either engine option (especially the 2.0L with the manual); it might leave a bit to be desired in the torque department, but you might find them to be adequate. It is a 2 with a lift. Except the new 2 that we don't get except for the ugly as sin scion thing
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Sep 23, 2015 00:05
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nm posted:Honestly, I can't remember details, but the reliability was well below average last time I looked. Everything Ford makes always ends up well below average, because of MFT if nothing else. But yeah don't buy a hybrid that isn't a Prius.
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Sep 23, 2015 01:03
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I'm buying my first car(!) and have found a couple that I'd like feedback on. My budget is only ~7K, and the car would be used as a commuter vehicle (roughly 20 miles/day). I don't care about style, but I do need something that will be reliable for at least the next few years, and preferably with good gas mileage. With those in mind, which of these options is the most likely to be a good choice? My first instinct is the Civic, but since it's already got so many miles on it, maybe the Cobalt or Focus would be a better choice? Thanks! 2006 Ford Focus Tan 83,469 miles $5,950 2007 Nissan Versa Silver 105,926 miles $5,495 2005 Honda Civic Blue 103,801 miles $6,212 2010 Chevrolet Cobalt 2 door White 67,055 miles $7,500 floramarche fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 03:49
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nm posted:It is a 2 with a lift. Except the new 2 that we don't get except for the ugly as sin scion thing I sat in one and I didn't make the connection.  Too bad that the Mazda2 was only a single model in the US market.
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Sep 23, 2015 15:43
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Looks like my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee has issues with front suspension, sway bars, bushings, tie rod ends, shocks, pinion seals on rear axle, and the ABS is torn out from previous trauma, and a fair amount of body rust, and the AC and the power locks are both out as well. They want most of 4000$ to fix a portion of that list..which was actually longer, it's just I ran out of room on my sticky note writing it all down. But it starts reliably, so that is something. Right now we have a 2007 prius as a daily driver, and the jeep is used pretty much only for in-town errands when the prius is out, and for carrying bicycles to the trailhead a couple miles away. Probably less than 3000 miles a year at the moment. Shop guy says I can buy a better car for what it would cost to fix. How much better a car can I buy for this use-case for that 4000$? How much past 4000$ would it take to get something I'd be happy with? Last time I was looking at something to replace the jeep, I was looking at new Mazda 3's, and decided that for the number of miles I put on it, I was better off limping along with what I had, and waiting for something expensive to go wrong. Starting to look like that has happened. So, AI/BFC, do I want to buy a 20-25,000$ new car, and relegate the Prius to second car status, or do I want to replace the second car with a less busted second car? What is the best way to extract value from the jeep that starts reliably but has 4000$ worth of problems? I would kind of like something with a tow hitch so I can mount a tow-hitch 4-bike tray style rack (might even be able to put that on the prius, dunno), but other than that, I am open to suggestions for a low-use second car with the most utility for a 4 person family that occasionally hauls 4 bikes.
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Sep 23, 2015 19:16
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How much rust does it have? Like tiny little spots that barely penetrate the metal, or bubbling crusty rust? If it's the latter, the best way to extract value would be to part it out if you have the time. I don't think you're gonna carry 4 bikes on a Prius unless you get both a rear 2 bike rack and a roof rack. If you want to replace the Jeep with another SUV in better shape, you're likely gonna have a lot of options in the few-thousand-dollar range.
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Sep 23, 2015 20:02
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Slo-Tek posted:I would kind of like something with a tow hitch so I can mount a tow-hitch 4-bike tray style rack (might even be able to put that on the prius, dunno), but other than that, I am open to suggestions for a low-use second car with the most utility for a 4 person family that occasionally hauls 4 bikes. You can get a hitch for the Prius: http://torkliftcentral.com/trailer-hitch-and-towing/ecohitch/toyota/prius
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Sep 23, 2015 20:22
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I need help choosing a second vehicle for me and my wife, she will probably be the primary driver and I will drive our 07 4runner (which I love). We are struggling to come to an agreement, our main requirements are as follows: -30,000 budget, give or take 5k -Good in the snow is a must (AWD and good clearance). We live in the mountains in Colorado. Meaning not in Denver, IN the mountains at 8,000ft. Average 300" of snow per year. -Decent MPG and not too big, since we already have the 4runner. We are thinking a small SUV or Wagon, or maybe a mid-sized SUV if the mileage is good. -Reliable and low maintenance costs would be a plus -Both of us could potentially be using the car to drive clients around so something kind of "nicer looking" would be a plus but not a huge deal If it were up to me we would have already bought a Forester, which we test drove. Unfortunately she has an irrational hate for it and everything else Subaru. She likes the RAV4. We test drove that too, I think it's ugly and underpowered and sucks compared to the Forester. Neither of us like the Honda CR-V. We both like the Audi Q5/Q3 but it goes back to maintenance. We were very close to buying a VW Sportwagen TDI (awesome reviews on CR) but that's obviously off the table now. We like the Toyota Highlander but that's going to have a lot over overlap with the 4runner and doesn't get great mileage, also kind of expensive. The Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD looks nearly perfect but when I talked to my mechanic he cautioned me because there is no nearby Mazda dealer. So it could be a huge pain in the rear end if/when we have to take it in to the dealer. Someone tell me what to buy. ironlung fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 20:26
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Here's the point of buying a hybrid: 1. Good on gas 2. Extremely dead loving reliable 3. Very practical The C-Max is not as good on gas, is actively not reliable and is a Ford so I sure as poo poo wouldn't trust it (this as a Ford owner), it's sort of practical but mostly if you like sitting high up versus having useful interior space. There's no point unless you like dumbshit gizmos that will break, and if that's the case, just get one of the stupid rear end Lexus hybrids, which suffer from the same problems except they are actually reliable because they are Priuses at heart.
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Sep 23, 2015 21:32
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ironlung posted:I need help choosing a second vehicle for me and my wife, she will probably be the primary driver and I will drive our 07 4runner (which I love). I am also from a place originally with a limited dealer network. What dealers do you have nearby? The Crosstrek is all up in your business except it's a Subaru. You could also consider the new baby Jeeps (Renegade or Cherokee), or the Chevy Trax(x?)/Buick Encore. Also check out the Honda HR-V for kicks if you want. Ford Escape if you don't actually care about reliable. Other things that exist: Nissan Juke and Rogue, and you might be able to swing a deal on a gently used Lexus RX or NX, or maybe a Volvo XC60? edit: comedy option Ford Focus RS
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Sep 23, 2015 21:35
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powderific posted:You can get a hitch for the Prius: http://priuschat.com/threads/4-bike-carrier-for-2010-prius.93720/ Apparently they don't take 4 bikes very well.
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Sep 23, 2015 23:27
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I am also from a place originally with a limited dealer network. What dealers do you have nearby? Volvo AWD is garbage, Every time I go to the dealer every single lift has an XC60 with the rear diff taken apart. Also you can only get the new DriveE engine and 8 speed auto with FWD on the XC60, the AWD is still on the old I5/6 speed combo, and the fuel economy difference is 5-6 mpg. Only the FWD is worth buying - the driveE drivetrain is legit quite good, the 8 speed is the same trans Toyota uses in the RX and Toyota isn't Chrysler. OP look at Accord Crosstour.
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Sep 24, 2015 00:40
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Here's the point of buying a hybrid: How does the volt stack up on the 'dead reliable' front? The 20-30~ mile range would handle 95% of my in town driving, so the plug in aspect is appealing.
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Sep 24, 2015 01:59
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VideoTapir posted:http://priuschat.com/threads/4-bike-carrier-for-2010-prius.93720/ That thread actually has several people who've been carrying 4 bikes on hitch racks fine? The one person who had a bunch of problems seemed unrelated to the Prius itself and more something with how they were loading the bikes.
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Sep 24, 2015 02:17
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Good luck making sure yours are loaded right then, because no one posted pictures. If it's even possible to load a bike wrong in such a way that it'd cause the kind of damage described, then the idea is a pretty marginal one. Sounds like it can take two on a hitch just fine, though, and that should not preclude you simultaneously using a roof rack, though your mpg will definitely go to hell. Either that or carry some really light bicycles.
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Sep 24, 2015 03:27
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The ripping the hitch off the frame thing one dude hypothesized or the people who probably would have had their bikes falling off the hitch rack regardless the car? Someone did post pictures of their car loaded up on the last page.
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Sep 24, 2015 05:53
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blugu64 posted:How does the volt stack up on the 'dead reliable' front? The 20-30~ mile range would handle 95% of my in town driving, so the plug in aspect is appealing. Im not too sure, but you can get a volt for like 22k new right now so it's a pretty good deal if you like it and it fits your needs. GM stuff is usually unreliable from a "the entire interior will fall apart" perspective, not mechanical reliability.
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Sep 24, 2015 12:56
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So VW's getting burned hard from erywhichaway with this dieselgate poo poo. That got me thinking. I wouldn't be surprised if VW dealers are desperate to sell anything at all... but I bought a 2015 Focus at the end of March. (SE 201A with manual. No DCT or MFT) What's the chance I could trade it in early and get a smokin hot deal on, like, a 1.8T Golf hatch or wagon, or a Passat maybe? Of course there's VW's legendary reliability and I'll take the hit on depreciation and trade-in for the Focus... but depending on how desperate they are I might still have a solid advantage. Plus this time around I'd mostly be just hunting for a good deal on something that doesn't still have the old 2.5 five-cylinder, unlike with the Focus when I was picky about what I wanted (no sunroof, no DCT, no MFT) and got the exact car I wanted, but not a great deal. Thoughts?
Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 01:18
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Friar Zucchini posted:So VW's getting burned hard from erywhichaway with this dieselgate poo poo. That got me thinking. I wouldn't be surprised if VW dealers are desperate to sell anything at all... but I bought a 2015 Focus at the end of March. (SE 201A with manual. No DCT or MFT) What's the chance I could trade it in early and get a smokin hot deal on, like, a 1.8T Golf hatch or wagon, or a Passat maybe? Of course there's VW's legendary reliability and I'll take the hit on depreciation and trade-in for the Focus... but depending on how desperate they are I might still have a solid advantage. Plus this time around I'd mostly be just hunting for a good deal, unlike with the Focus when I was picky about what I wanted (to avoid the DCT and MFT) and got the exact car I wanted, but not a great deal. Thoughts? You mean the Passat that I told you to buy from the beginning? Yes, trade in your 6 months old car on a new car that if you want a manual you will probably have to custom order. This is a good financial decision. You are a terrible poster.
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Sep 25, 2015 01:49
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I don't give a gently caress about a manual if I'm gonna get a VW, I just didn't want that specific Ford transmission. I'm just curious to see if it's possible for me to take advantage of someone else's misfortune. Even if it is possible, I really do like the car I've already got so a deal on a new VW has got to be really desperate to actually get my attention. I know VW dealers are gonna be hurting from the greater damage to their reputation than only the stop-sale on the TDI's, I just don't know how bad the hurt is.
Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 01:53
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It won't be that bad. I guarantee you VWoA will offer floorplan support to the dealer network. You will be able to get a good discount of say, 5-10% additional, but not any sort of discount that rationalizes your idiotic plan.
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Sep 25, 2015 15:47
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floramarche posted:I'm buying my first car(!) and have found a couple that I'd like feedback on. My budget is only ~7K, and the car would be used as a commuter vehicle (roughly 20 miles/day). I don't care about style, but I do need something that will be reliable for at least the next few years, and preferably with good gas mileage. With those in mind, which of these options is the most likely to be a good choice? My first instinct is the Civic, but since it's already got so many miles on it, maybe the Cobalt or Focus would be a better choice? Thanks! why does the color matter more than things like say the transmission or the trim? From the things you have stacked up there I'd go Focus or maybe Civic. The Cobalt isn't very good, and neither is the Versa.
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Sep 25, 2015 15:48
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:From the things you have stacked up there I'd go Focus or maybe Civic. The Cobalt isn't very good, and neither is the Versa. Why do you recommend the Focus? Have they finally fixed the issues with the dual-clutch automatic transmission?
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Sep 25, 2015 15:56
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silence_kit posted:Why do you recommend the Focus? Have they finally fixed the issues with the dual-clutch automatic transmission? The 2006 Focus shouldn't have the jankbox transmission, I think 2008 is the earliest Ford shipped the Focus with it.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:05
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silence_kit posted:Why do you recommend the Focus? Have they finally fixed the issues with the dual-clutch automatic transmission? I don't think it was in the 06s.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:06
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IRQ posted:I don't think it was in the 06s. It wasn't.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:12
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord with 170k miles on it and I'm okay with it. However, last year I spent more than $2100 in repairs on it. I plan on moving across the country in a year and I'm debating whether or not it's smarter financially to just keep it up for another year and sell it before I move or to sell it and get a less breaky car to use for the next year and sell that when I move. Things that broke and I already fixed: Steering rack, Engine block mounts (all of them), 2 brake calipers, tie rods. On top of that right now it's making a creaky noise when I turn the steering wheel while going under 40 MPH. I'm bringing it in to get looked at this weekend but I have no idea what it is or what it might cost me.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:19
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It's almost always smarter financially to keep the car than to replace it with an unknown vehicle with unknown issues, even if someone tells you it's "less breaky".
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Sep 25, 2015 18:26
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You can look at it yourself, you know. Steering and suspension work is mostly noob-level stuff. Doesn't hurt to at least have a look so you know you're not getting screwed at a mechanic.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:58
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skipdogg posted:It's almost always smarter financially to keep the car than to replace it with an unknown vehicle with unknown issues, even if someone tells you it's "less breaky". When it is a homda accord, yes. If it was a dcx product, less so.
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Sep 25, 2015 19:48
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StickFigs posted:I have a 2003 Honda Accord with 170k miles on it and I'm okay with it. However, last year I spent more than $2100 in repairs on it. So, yeah it's a 10-12 year old car with 170k miles on it, so it is "old", but it's not dead yet especially if the engine and transmission are in good shape (and it's a Honda Accord). It's just that at 170k miles and 12 years it has a decent handful of things that will need fixing once, but then likely not again until 300k+ miles (or more realistically, until the car gets junked). $2100 sounds like a lot (and certainly feels like it at the time), but it's really not actually that much money when we're talking cars. That's not even a down payment on a new/slightly-used car. Motor mounts are more or less a wear item and are to be expected to need replacement in the 150-200k range. Same with tie rods and other suspension bushings (which is likely where the creaking is coming from). Having to replace brake calipers isn't quite normal but its certainly not unheard of especially if you live in a place that salts roads. It sucks when it feels like your car has been in the shop a lot, but when the "problems" are more or less expected for its age/miles it's not really being a lovely car, it's just being an old car with maintenance needs. Fixing an old car with some expected maintenance needs but is otherwise in good mechanical shape is still going to be A LOT cheaper than buying a new car. But if you just want to buy a new car because you're sick of it and you can afford to do so, then by all means go for it. Just don't think you'll be saving any money.
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Sep 25, 2015 20:13
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My 1997 Camry has 180k miles on it, about $2000 (minimum) of work that it needs, and is finally at the point where I don't think it's worth continuing to put money into. This, combined with a new baby has my wife and I looking for a new car. Our first priority is all of these fancy new safety features, so it means we're looking at Subaru after doing a bunch of research into IIHS, NCAP, and Euro NCAP safety data. Nothing else under $40k that I've been able to find performs well in automatic emergency braking tests and has blind spot warnings. Proposed Budget: We'd like to stay under $30k. New or Used: New, I can't find a used car with advanced safety features for under $30k. Body Style: Sedan or wagon. How will you be using the car?: Short city driving trips. What aspects are most important to you? Safety performance, reliability, cost of ownership in that order. Vehicles we're considering: 2016 Legacy - Checks all the boxes and is pretty comfortable. Far away the safest sedan in our price range. Not fun to drive in any regard, and we don't want or need the AWD, but tons of features at a reasonable price. Wish this car was available FWD (or RWD) with an automatic transmission. Can be bought for ~$29,000. 2016 Mazda 6 - interior feels a little cramped, ride is sporty but stiff, and safety features are not quite to the level of Subaru and are only available in the top trim. That said, automatic transmission and fuel economy are superior to the legacy, and the heads up display is cool. Roughly ~$30,000 at the trim level we'd want to purchase. Between the two we're learning towards the Legacy due to the superior safety stuff and the lower price. We've ruled out the Outback (boat-like handling, poor fuel economy, cargo area with cover is begging to be broken into where we live, more expensive than the Legacy), the 2016 Accord (front legroom is just too cramped for me, unfortunately - otherwise seems very nice. Can be had for $24k at the cheapest trim with safety stuff) the VW Sportwagen (VW reliability, seats weren't too comfortable, nicely priced at ~$26,000 and fun-ish to drive though), and the Hyundai Sonata (really nice interior, superior safety, cheap at $26,600, but Hyundai reliability and warranty... should I reconsider this one?). The cars I'd really like to buy are at least 3 months away, (2016 Chevy Volt, 2016 Audi e-tron Sportback, maybe even a 2016 Prius) and my '97 Camry needs work right now if it's going to continue to be driven. Any thoughts or suggestions? Edit: I could be conceivably rent a car for a few months, but that seems like a bad idea. Repairing my car is an option, but it seems like a waste of money and my wife isn't pleased about the idea of driving our baby around in it. AriTheDog fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Sep 26, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 22:25
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I'd buy the mazda. More fun to drive. Looks amazing. Avoid some iffy subaru engine issues (which may or may not be real). The safety features. Eh, just make sure to pay attention while driving. Somehow you made it this far. The mazda is perfectly safe.
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Sep 26, 2015 22:46
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You thought the interior was cramped on the 6? I sat in one at a dealership and thought it was huge. Maybe that's just relative to my 3, though.
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Sep 26, 2015 23:43
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A Proper Uppercut posted:You thought the interior was cramped on the 6? I sat in one at a dealership and thought it was huge. Maybe that's just relative to my 3, though. People have wildly varying ideas of what "cramped" means. For some people, if they don't have 6 inches of freedom of movement in every direction they feel cramped. For me, if I can get my legs under the steering wheel and my head doesn't hit the headliner, it's acceptable. Never accept a stranger's evaluation of whether a car is roomy or not, not without comparing against some numbers.
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Sep 26, 2015 23:46
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AriTheDog posted:My 1997 Camry has 180k miles on it, about $2000 (minimum) of work that it needs, and is finally at the point where I don't think it's worth continuing to put money into. This, combined with a new baby has my wife and I looking for a new car. Our first priority is all of these fancy new safety features, so it means we're looking at Subaru after doing a bunch of research into IIHS, NCAP, and Euro NCAP safety data. Nothing else under $40k that I've been able to find performs well in automatic emergency braking tests and has blind spot warnings. The Chrysler 200 with everything you want can be had for like $22k. According to truedelta the reliability is OK as far as wen can tell from a brand new vehicle and they've been updating the 9 speed trans software continuously so maybe it will be fine now.
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Sep 27, 2015 00:35
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AriTheDog posted:My 1997 Camry has 180k miles on it, about $2000 (minimum) of work that it needs, and is finally at the point where I don't think it's worth continuing to put money into. This, combined with a new baby has my wife and I looking for a new car. Our first priority is all of these fancy new safety features, so it means we're looking at Subaru after doing a bunch of research into IIHS, NCAP, and Euro NCAP safety data. Nothing else under $40k that I've been able to find performs well in automatic emergency braking tests and has blind spot warnings. Are you open to leases? The Sonata can be leased very, very cheap, much cheaper than comparably priced things. When my dad was doing a lease cross-shop a couple months ago, Honda wanted ~$400/mo to lease a $25k Accord (in a state with high sales tax, and doing 0 down payment), but a $27k Sonata could be leased for $250/mo.
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Sep 27, 2015 01:08
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Thanks everyone for the feedback and opinions.nm posted:I'd buy the mazda. More fun to drive. Looks amazing. Avoid some iffy subaru engine issues (which may or may not be real). Fair enough. Safety stuff is more for my wife than me, but it seems like good insurance with the added distraction of a child, not to mention all the new info system garbage. I realized driving around today that due to the broken roads around here (Oakland) more road feel actually might not be a good thing. Still, considering taking another test drive - I like the car and the improved mileage and automatic transmission are very appealing. A Proper Uppercut posted:You thought the interior was cramped on the 6? I sat in one at a dealership and thought it was huge. Maybe that's just relative to my 3, though. I'm coming from driving a '97 Camry which is a very large "mid-size" sedan. The 6 is plenty big, but I've got a big car seat and stroller and I'm relatively tall. Throatwarbler posted:The Chrysler 200 with everything you want can be had for like $22k. According to truedelta the reliability is OK as far as wen can tell from a brand new vehicle and they've been updating the 9 speed trans software continuously so maybe it will be fine now. Truecar estimates $26,174 with FWD and the Safetytec package, which is only available with the top trim. Avoids a collision at 12mph, but only reduces speed by 14mph in the 25mph test. And it's a Chrysler. Am I wrong about Chrysler's reputation? Is there anything that makes this car appealing other than being a little less expensive? Seems like the fully loaded Hyundai Sonata at $26k would be a better bet. Twerk from Home posted:Are you open to leases? The Sonata can be leased very, very cheap, much cheaper than comparably priced things. When my dad was doing a lease cross-shop a couple months ago, Honda wanted ~$400/mo to lease a $25k Accord (in a state with high sales tax, and doing 0 down payment), but a $27k Sonata could be leased for $250/mo. I'd definitely be open to a lease depending on the price. I see Hyundai is currently offering a base trim 2016 Sonata at $209/mo with $2,499 down for 36 months ($10,023) with an option to purchase at $12,422. $595 acquisition and $400 disposition fees equal $23,440, which isn't bad I guess? That said, having a kid grow up to 3 years old in a leased car I feel like I'm setting myself up to pay for tons of wear penalties when returning a leased car. Any idea how Hyundai treats lease returns? Or Subaru, for that matter?
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Sep 27, 2015 04:45
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AriTheDog posted:Truecar estimates $26,174 with FWD and the Safetytec package, which is only available with the top trim. Avoids a collision at 12mph, but only reduces speed by 14mph in the 25mph test. And it's a Chrysler. Am I wrong about Chrysler's reputation? Is there anything that makes this car appealing other than being a little less expensive? Seems like the fully loaded Hyundai Sonata at $26k would be a better bet. I think the interior of the Chrysler is better than either the Subaru or the Hyundai, but you're not wrong. They're both(Subaru and Hyundai) solid choices.
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Sep 27, 2015 05:14
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If it were my money on a midsize sedan, I would buy an accord or a Mazda6. New cars are very safe, though, so I'm not really in to the last marginal expensive safety feature.
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Sep 28, 2015 13:16
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