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The Asus RT-N66U and RT-AC66U are both fine. So are the Archer C5, C7, C8, and C9. Personally I feel the Archer and C5 and C7 are the sweet spot for bang for your buck if you want an all in one wifi router instead of separate APs and a wired router.
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Oct 1, 2015 16:39
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Zotix posted:So I'm trying to get an open Nat on my ps4 and I don't seem to be having much luck. I'm using a linksys e1000 and its stuck on type 2 Nat. I'd like to get to type 1. Port forwarding hasn't helped nor has the DMZ option. I also feel like my current router is likely going to poo poo the bed soon. If I was to get a new router for a small home which is the best option ? It's likely only max going to have 5-6 devices at once, more likely 2-3. I've seen people recommend that Asus 66u. Pretty sure type 2 is the best you can do on PS4 without having it go straight to the modem itself. It doesn't affect anything. type 3 is the one you want to look out for.
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Oct 1, 2015 18:12
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I had an issue with voice comm last night with a European. It said the Nat settings werent set up correctly.
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Oct 1, 2015 21:51
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I bought some TP Link powerline adapters that have been disconnecting more and more as of late. They are plugged into the outlets directly. TP-LINK TL-PA2010KIT AV200 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704164 I'm a fan of cheap internet solutions, does anyone have any experience with this Netgear setup? Netgear XAVB5221-100PAS AV500 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...00H-00015-S2A2D I have them going to a switch upstairs with a second wireless router coming off that as well. But I shouldn't be having any IP conflicts the way I set it all up. I'm just assuming that the TP-Links are junk and disconnecting on their own. Nothing else should cause it, right?
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Oct 1, 2015 22:48
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I'm having an issue with my desktop not getting full speed internet until I reboot it. I shut it off before bed, then don't turn it on until around 4 the next day. At that point speedtest tells me I have a ~10 Mbps download, when I have access to 50. Any of my other devices, both wired and wireless, get 50 Mbps. Rebooting either the router or the computer fixes it until the next day. I have Win10 (but noticed this on 7 before I upgraded) and the latest driver for my network adapter. I have a combo router/modem, the Surfboard SBG6580, which I just wiped to factory settings to see if that would help (it did for about a day). What else can I check? Since it's only effecting one computer, Cox claims it's nothing to do with them.
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Oct 1, 2015 23:13
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Deeters posted:I'm having an issue with my desktop not getting full speed internet until I reboot it. I shut it off before bed, then don't turn it on until around 4 the next day. At that point speedtest tells me I have a ~10 Mbps download, when I have access to 50. Any of my other devices, both wired and wireless, get 50 Mbps. Rebooting either the router or the computer fixes it until the next day. I have Win10 (but noticed this on 7 before I upgraded) and the latest driver for my network adapter. I have a combo router/modem, the Surfboard SBG6580, which I just wiped to factory settings to see if that would help (it did for about a day). What else can I check? Since it's only effecting one computer, Cox claims it's nothing to do with them. Sounds like your computer is failing to negotiate the link speed properly, try changing the interface speed from auto to 1000Mbps.
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Oct 1, 2015 23:49
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Kramdar posted:I bought some TP Link powerline adapters that have been disconnecting more and more as of late. They are plugged into the outlets directly. No thoughts on the other bit, but might be worth pulling them apart. I have a set of similar TPLink (PA210s I think?) and one has a failed capacitor. Just waiting on some time to solder in a fresh one and see if that fixes it. Deeters posted:I'm having an issue with my desktop not getting full speed internet until I reboot it. Out of curiosity, is the desktop actually wired to the gateway, or is it using wireless too?
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Oct 2, 2015 00:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:No thoughts on the other bit, but might be worth pulling them apart. I have a set of similar TPLink (PA210s I think?) and one has a failed capacitor. Just waiting on some time to solder in a fresh one and see if that fixes it. Have a link to any instructions on how to go about this? I may play around with it if that is the case.
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Oct 2, 2015 00:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Out of curiosity, is the desktop actually wired to the gateway, or is it using wireless too? Wired. 37th Chamber posted:Sounds like your computer is failing to negotiate the link speed properly, try changing the interface speed from auto to 1000Mbps. I'm looking for this, but the browser interface is pretty awful. Do you have any suggestions of what else this could be called? Edit: From a little Googling, it looks like there is a firmware update to these modems, but for whatever reason Cox hasn't pushed them out and I can't update it myself. I'm wondering if this could be having some sort of effect. Deeters fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 00:58
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Deeters posted:Wired. If there is not an option on the router, set the rate on the network interface on your computer, under the properties of your ethernet card. 
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Oct 2, 2015 01:10
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Kramdar posted:I bought some TP Link powerline adapters that have been disconnecting more and more as of late. They are plugged into the outlets directly. I haven't used that setup, but here's Smallnetbuilder's latest reviews on Powerline http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tags/powerline There's been some new av2 mimo devices hitting the market last few months, probably a good bet to take a look at that or the overall reviews. SNB measures throughput and distance in their reviews so you should get some useful info. Here is their current chart: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/powerline/view In terms of whats happening, you should be fine swapping adapters unless something really weird changed like someone bought a big electrical appliance (fridge / microwave) and it's defective or an existing one of those is failing in some way that is creating interference. Ham Sandwiches fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 01:16
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Made the mistake of going to a Best Buy to look at routers to replace my ancient D-Link. All they had were Netgear, Belkin, and Linksys devices that were way too expensive. Ordered a TP-Link Archer C9 from Amazon.
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Oct 2, 2015 01:52
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SouthLAnd posted:Made the mistake of going to a Best Buy to look at routers to replace my ancient D-Link. All they had were Netgear, Belkin, and Linksys devices that were way too expensive. Yikes. Last time I went to one the Asus and TP-Links were ... well, not literally front-and-centre, but a lot more prominent than any other AP-router combo; only Netgear's Nighthawk-alikes were close. Then again this was July and near a Californian airbase, so season and demographics might play a role.
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Oct 2, 2015 05:26
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Deeters posted:I'm having an issue with my desktop not getting full speed internet until I reboot it. I shut it off before bed, then don't turn it on until around 4 the next day. At that point speedtest tells me I have a ~10 Mbps download, when I have access to 50. Any of my other devices, both wired and wireless, get 50 Mbps. Rebooting either the router or the computer fixes it until the next day. I have Win10 (but noticed this on 7 before I upgraded) and the latest driver for my network adapter. I have a combo router/modem, the Surfboard SBG6580, which I just wiped to factory settings to see if that would help (it did for about a day). What else can I check? Since it's only effecting one computer, Cox claims it's nothing to do with them. It may also be worth trying a different ethernet cable. Sometimes one of the pairs gets a kink in it and causes the link to not negotiate to the proper speed. If that doesn't do it I would try connecting to the PC to a different port on the router/switch as it might be a bad port. It could also be that the ethernet adapter in the PC is going out. I had the ethernet adapter on my last motherboard die on me after a few years. A new PCIe ethernet card fixed the issue just fine for only ~$10. I would be careful messing with the link speed negotiation settings. All consumer grade networking gear assumes that everything is set to auto/auto and expects to perform a negotiation handshake with whatever is plugged into it. When you hard set the link speed to 100/full or whatever your PC will not negotiate with the switch so if the switch is set to auto it will usually fall back to something stupid like 100/half. When the link settings on the two ends of the cable don't match like that you get tons of collisions and really terrible network performance as a result. Now if you can set the port speed to 100/full or whatever on the router/switch and set the PC to match then go for it. But having one device on auto and the other hard set is generally a bad idea as it pretty much always results in a speed/duplex mismatch. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Oct 2, 2015 |
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Oct 2, 2015 16:07
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I'm in the market for a new router but I'm in an uncommon position of using a Unifi WAP to handle wireless duty. If I'm not interested in a router for its wireless capabilities, will any router work? Is there something else I should take in consideration when shopping around (aside from gigabit ports, USB, etc...)? Is it worth looking at routers that DON'T have wireless?
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Oct 2, 2015 17:00
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Karthe posted:I'm in the market for a new router but I'm in an uncommon position of using a Unifi WAP to handle wireless duty. If I'm not interested in a router for its wireless capabilities, will any router work? Is there something else I should take in consideration when shopping around (aside from gigabit ports, USB, etc...)? Is it worth looking at routers that DON'T have wireless? What do you actually want your router to be capable of doing?
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Oct 2, 2015 17:08
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Kramdar posted:Have a link to any instructions on how to go about this? I may play around with it if that is the case. Yours looks different so it may take a different trick to open it up, but: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk I opened both of mine. One has a swollen cap and won't power on at all, so the worst case scenario is I'm in exactly the same boat.
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Oct 2, 2015 17:10
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Karthe posted:I'm in the market for a new router but I'm in an uncommon position of using a Unifi WAP to handle wireless duty. If I'm not interested in a router for its wireless capabilities, will any router work? Is there something else I should take in consideration when shopping around (aside from gigabit ports, USB, etc...)? Is it worth looking at routers that DON'T have wireless? If you're already using Ubiquiti for wireless then you should take a look at either the EdgeRouterX or EdgeRouter Lite for routing duties.
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Oct 2, 2015 18:30
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Mantle posted:What do you actually want your router to be capable of doing? Krailor posted:If you're already using Ubiquiti for wireless then you should take a look at either the EdgeRouterX or EdgeRouter Lite for routing duties.
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Oct 2, 2015 18:46
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Karthe posted:I had looked at these before but they seem waaaaay overkill for a household. I found a 5-port w/POE version, though, for $60 so maybe I'll go with that. Thanks for the suggestion. They might seem overkill, but any run of the mill box-store router will run you $50-100, and will include wireless that you wont be using anyways, nothing wrong with investing a bit more in something a whole lot better.
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Oct 2, 2015 19:13
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Hey guys, I'm not sure if this question is considered on-topic. If not, I apologize. I can't seem to connect to one particular address: macdinhchi71.com The website is online and I can access it through any proxy, but through my ISP (Time Warner), it just times out. Here's the tracert code:
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Oct 3, 2015 03:45
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I live in a townhouse and my neighbors want to pay me for access to my WiFi. They've also got an original Wii which is 802.11G only. Would the best thing to do be to have them pay for a router that'll only handle their traffic? Edit: temporarily, to test, I've set up a guest Wifi AP on my DD-WRT router but I can't stream a goddamn thing from my media server anymore and I suspect it's because of their Wii using netflix dragging everything down. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 03:51
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suction posted:Hey guys, Site came up fine for me.
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Oct 3, 2015 04:35
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flosofl posted:Site came up fine for me. Yeah, every proxy I tried has no problem. Yet, I can't access the site through my ISP.
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Oct 3, 2015 04:38
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GobiasIndustries posted:I live in a townhouse and my neighbors want to pay me for access to my WiFi. They've also got an original Wii which is 802.11G only. Would the best thing to do be to have them pay for a router that'll only handle their traffic?
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Oct 3, 2015 04:45
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Antillie posted:It may also be worth trying a different ethernet cable. Sometimes one of the pairs gets a kink in it and causes the link to not negotiate to the proper speed. If that doesn't do it I would try connecting to the PC to a different port on the router/switch as it might be a bad port. It could also be that the ethernet adapter in the PC is going out. I had the ethernet adapter on my last motherboard die on me after a few years. A new PCIe ethernet card fixed the issue just fine for only ~$10. I'm going to try out a different cable since this post jogged my memory of a couple times over the years where I had weird network problems that ended up being a bad cable. If that doesn't work, I might just get another router and turn off as many of the "router" parts of the modem as possible. I really don't like the fact that I can't upgrade the router firmware to something usable.
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Oct 3, 2015 04:51
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suction posted:Hey guys, There are two possibilities here; 1. The people at macdinhchi71.com don't like your IP and have blocked it. Either because you did something they didn't like or someone who used to have your address did something they didn't like. Or someone else who is in the same range as you did something annoying at some point in the past and they blocked the whole range in response. I see this with Chinese IP ranges all the time for example. This could have been done ages ago for all we know and simply never removed. You'd be amazed how many things get stuck in corporate firewalls and then get forgotten about for years. 2. Someone in the unifiedlayer.com networking team has hosed up a route somewhere (probably resulting in an asymmetric path trying to go through a stateful firewall somewhere along the way) for whatever IP block you are coming from. Probably a large summarized route that contains a whole ton of other people in addition to you. You just happen to be the only person who had tried to do something about it. Most people don't go to most web sites so hosed up routes happen all the time and usually go unnoticed for ages until someone somewhere complains. If you have some way to get in touch with the people who run macdinhchi71.com then you can ask them to talk to unifiedlayer.com about the issue. Hosting providers are very responsive to customers who complain that users can't reach their site. Otherwise you can contact unifiedlayer.com and ask why you can't browse one of their customer's web sites. Provide them with your source IP, a copy of that trace route, and a brief description of the problem. Hopefully they will be willing to help you out. Antillie fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 05:02
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lignicolos posted:I could be out of date with this info, but I think if you have a G client connected, then all of the clients connected will run at G speeds. Maybe that's causing the slowdown? That is correct. A wifi network will only go at the speed of the slowest connected device. So if a single G device joins the network everything will run at G speeds. Even if the G device isn't currently talking. @GobiasIndustries: Many ISPs greatly frown upon or even prohibit sharing or reselling your internet connection if you don't have a business account. So if you decide to do that don't tell them. They might cut off your service in response. The other issue is that you don't know what else your neighbors are doing besides streaming Netflix. If they start downloading movies or something via bit torrent you will be the one who gets the scary legal notice. Also if any of their machines pick up a virus it may try and infect your PC over the network if you haven't implemented vlans and separate SSIDs with a firewall between them. Designing a multi tenant network properly is beyond the knowledge level of most people. I recommend you leave it to the pros and let your neighbors buy their own internet service. Slow DSL/cable is super cheap anyway. I guess the real question is, how much do you trust your neighbors and everyone else they might potentially let use your network. Antillie fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 05:12
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Antillie posted:There are two possibilities here; Thanks for the detailed explanation. The site is owned by my dad's friend, so I guess having him contacting unifiedlayer.com will be more effective.
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Oct 3, 2015 05:32
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lignicolos posted:I could be out of date with this info, but I think if you have a G client connected, then all of the clients connected will run at G speeds. Maybe that's causing the slowdown? Yeah this is definitely the truth. I can't do a thing streaming anymore now that her Wii is connected. I was looking for a reason to upgrade, anyway; I'll just connect the old router as an AP and go from there. Antillie posted:@GobiasIndustries: I appreciate this advice; I've already set up DD-WRT for a segmented vlan on its own IP range; any devices that connect to that SSID will be segmented and can only communicate with the internet. I've also set it up for bandwidth monitoring so if they're abusing I'll know and cut them off. You seem like a Comcast supervisor; sorry that I'm cutting into your profits but I'll be fine here. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 07:01
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GobiasIndustries posted:I appreciate this advice; I've already set up DD-WRT for a segmented vlan on its own IP range; any devices that connect to that SSID will be segmented and can only communicate with the internet. I've also set it up for bandwidth monitoring so if they're abusing I'll know and cut them off. You seem like a Comcast supervisor; sorry that I'm cutting into your profits but I'll be fine here. Yeah... no amount of money is worth the legal woes you open yourself up to doing this. Forget even the argument about it being against your ISP's TOS, if they do anything illegal you're hosed, no amount of "b..bu..but sir it was from the other VLAN" will save you as the connection is in YOUR name. Caught torrenting? Enjoy that C&D. Looking at child porn? Enjoy the police to your front door. etc. Tell them to go get a like $20/mo 6Mbps ADSL line, and have no part in this.
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Oct 3, 2015 07:24
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37th Chamber posted:Yeah... no amount of money is worth the legal woes you open yourself up to doing this. Forget even the argument about it being against your ISP's TOS, if they do anything illegal you're hosed, no amount of "b..bu..but sir it was from the other VLAN" will save you as the connection is in YOUR name. Yeah, that's a loving legal tar-pit I wouldn't want to get involved with. Your connection, your responsibility from a legal perspective.
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Oct 3, 2015 08:19
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GobiasIndustries posted:Yeah this is definitely the truth. I can't do a thing streaming anymore now that her Wii is connected. I was looking for a reason to upgrade, anyway; I'll just connect the old router as an AP and go from there. I work for a hosting provider and not a residential ISP. We have customers resell our services all the time and we are fine with that as they understand that they are responsible for what goes on with their servers/connection. This isn't the case with most random end users so I was just cautioning you. We also aren't dicks about that sort of things like some ISPs are. I am glad that you at least have them on their own vlan and SSID. If you feel comfortable doing it then rake in the money. I just wanted to make sure you knew what you might be getting into. Our clients usually solve the tor/bit torrent liability issue by making their clients sign a contract that assigns the liability for that sort of thing to the end user. If you want advice on that sort of thing you would need to talk to a lawyer. Antillie fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 14:27
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suction posted:Thanks for the detailed explanation. The site is owned by my dad's friend, so I guess having him contacting unifiedlayer.com will be more effective. Give him your source IP and a copy of that trace route so he can give them to unifiedlayer.com. That info is pretty much required for them to be able to look into the issue.
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Oct 3, 2015 14:39
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Yeah, sorry for that dickish reply, I don't know why I decided to go full rear end in a top hat there. I know my neighbors well; it's a single mother of two sub-8 kids. She literally doesn't even have a PC anymore because it broke and uses her iPhone for everything and the Wii for Netflix. If it were any other situation I'd totally tell them to deal with it on their own but I hang out with them and know their uses. I can also check the device client table from my router; on her SSID the only two MAC addresses are from Apple and Nintendo, if anything else starts popping up with regularity I'll know.
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Oct 3, 2015 16:19
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Don Lapre posted:Also a UPS will probably keep a cablemodem/router/switch going for a couple hours I considered that, but it's an old rack mount switch (US Robotics 16 port) with cooling fans. I have no idea how much power it pulls. I guess I could toss the UPS from my PC on it and see how long everything lasts though. Antillie posted:Windows will retry obtaining a DHCP lease every 5 minutes by default. The process itself takes 59 seconds to time out as Windows actually tries four times with timeouts of 5, 7, 15, and 32 seconds respectively. So it will spend a minute trying, and then 4 minutes waiting before trying again. I didn't realize it would retry on its own. Thanks for that info. Antillie posted:Personally I feel the Archer and C5 and C7 are the sweet spot for bang for your buck if you want an all in one wifi router instead of separate APs and a wired router. Agreed, I have a C5 and it's fantastic - I've had absolutely zero issues from it. Don't plan to use a 3rd party firmware on the latest hardware revision (v2), but for a home/SOHO router it's really great, and very configurable. The C7 has plenty of support from DD-WRT, if that's your thing. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 06:40
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Antillie posted:I work for a hosting provider and not a residential ISP. We have customers resell our services all the time and we are fine with that as they understand that they are responsible for what goes on with their servers/connection. This isn't the case with most random end users so I was just cautioning you. We also aren't dicks about that sort of things like some ISPs are. I am glad that you at least have them on their own vlan and SSID. I am no lawyer but why wouldn't whatever protections that shield Internet access providers from liability for what their customers do, apply to him? A very cursory googling suggests this may be the case, at least if the openwireless and EFF people are to be believed: https://www.eff.org/deeplinks/2011/04/open-wireless-movement posted:and explaining that individuals who choose to do so can enjoy the same legal protections against liability as any other Internet access provider. https://www.eff.org/deeplinks/2011/04/open-wireless-movement#footnote1_215hfg6 posted:If you run an open wireless network, you may be able to receive significant legal protection from Section 230 of the CDA (against civil and state criminal liability for what others publish through the service) and Section 512 of the DMCA (against copyright claims based on what others use the service for). While these protections are not complete, EFF regularly engages in impact litigation to help ensure that these laws offer as strong protection to network operators as possible. For all I know the legal landscape has shifted since 2011 though.
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Oct 4, 2015 18:01
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Even if they did, which they probably don't, would you want to go to court over that? Think it will be fun?
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Oct 5, 2015 00:46
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Im having an issue with a completely inconsistent connection from my ISP Cogeco in Canada. I currently pay for 120mb/s download and 10mb/s upload. I would say only 15% of the time I actually get anything close to this downloadspeed. usually I average somewhere around 50. But my Upload for the most part is always 10. See the following image.   These speeds are straight from the modem to my PC. Iv tried a new modem, fresh install of windows7, new cables, brand new PC, A tech came out and rewired from the line outside. Im out of ideas and im going crazy. I pay a fortune for this internet package and it doesnt work most of the time. Does anyone have a clue what I could do next, or what I can ask the people at my ISP? They appear to believe this is all on my end. LeninVS fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 02:00
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LeninVS posted:They appear to believe this is all on my end. Of course they do, it could never be them. It's the ISP, and there's little you can do except pester them constantly to split your local node.
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Oct 5, 2015 03:45
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