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Leperflesh posted:So, is it safe to just cut the cig lighter adapter off the cord, split out the wiring, and wire it into the fusebox? No. These cameras run off of USB power which is 5 volts while the car cigarette lighter socket puts out 12 volts. The reason that there is a big lump hanging off of the cigarette lighter adapter is that there is a 12v to 5v step-down converter in there. If you cut the adapter off and just route the wires into a 12v circuit you will be giving the camera 12v instead of 5v and bad things will probably happen. Your plan to wire the power cord directly into the car is known as hardwiring and is something a lot of people have done. You still need a 12v to 5v converter somewhere in the loop, and with a hardwire install it's just somewhere else other than the cigarette lighter socket. You mentioned the fuse box and switched circuits so you are on the right track. Most hardwire installations run what is called a fuse tap into a an already populated fuse slot, often the cigarette lighter fuse itself since it's usually switched with the ignition and doesn't have any heavy loads attached to it. I've read that using an unpopulated slot isn't a good idea for certain reasons, I guess because you can't tell what may or not be attached to that circuit. If the manufacturer left it unpopulated it's probably a good idea to leave it alone. Then you just need to find a ground point somewhere, and once the 12v to 5v converter has power from the fuse tap (12v) and ground you route the 5v USB cable to the dashcam. Do a web search for something like "dashcam hardwire guide" and see if it looks doable. DethMarine21 fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 05:35
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You could probably bust apart the cigarette lighter adapter and hardwire its guts.
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Oct 4, 2015 05:57
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Getting a +12v from your fusebox should be easy, just tap into the fused side of the cig lighter circuit so you don't disrupt any important wires. The hard part is going to be getting USB voltage (5v) that the cig adapter puts out, and a good earth, since there may not be one nearby so you may have to strip further back and pull off interior covers connect it to the chassis somewhere. Have you thought getting a cig socket double adapter instead? As far as memory cards, check dashcam specialist forums, reviews for card speed class required, and check reviews of any card vendors you plan to buy from to make sure they're not selling fakes. I normally buy mine from PC retailers that are selling other types of memory too like ssd drives and pc memory, as it's more likely they are buying from legit sources than suppliers that only sell cards for dashcams and cameras etc.
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Oct 4, 2015 06:07
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This post from page 3 had some good hardwiring links for fully hidden wiring direct from the fuse box. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3597215&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post424492651
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Oct 4, 2015 08:18
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iohNS009N40 This is a dumb little video I put together from my front & rear A118 cams. Both are looking out through tinted glass (50% front, 35% rear), and the rear has a line of the defroster right through the middle, so I need to move it. I made this to post on my city's Facebook page because the intersection in the video is horribly designed, and I wanted to show them what I experience on a daily basis. DropShadow fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Oct 6, 2015 |
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Oct 6, 2015 17:29
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I see nothing wrong with the lights. It's idiots who can't tell the difference between 40 yards and 150 yards.
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Oct 6, 2015 17:44
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I forgot to say thanks for the help, guys. This weekend turned out to be really busy so I haven't had time with the car to work on getting the cams in place yet, but I think I have a good idea of what to do. Most likely I'll dissect the cigarett lighter plug and wire the innards into the car wiring. There's no cladding above the drivers' feet and lots of exposed (although neatly secured) circuits up in there, so I'm pretty confident I can tap into the cig lighter circuit downstream of the fuse, and then ziptie in place whatever bits of the cam plug need to be secured up in there.
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Oct 6, 2015 17:54
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I can't really be sure it's not just a couple of bad cards, but I've had some difficulty lately with Class10 cards in the Mobius, both 32GB and 64 GB. I usually just pick up MicroCenter branded ones as they've been pretty reliable. I tried exFat and Fat32 (the camera will format 64GB to Fat32, Windows will not) but the cards were becoming unreadable and the camera was sporadically failing to record. (For the Mobius this is shown via a solid red LED.) After reading that others had had difficulty with exFat and 64 GB cards I found a Class 4 32GB card and it's working well so far. I was liking the ability to record 5+ hours without overwriting anything, but the random cut outs and missed shots were really aggravating. [edit] Now that the Class 4 card started doing the same thing I looked into the settings again and determined I had turned off (or failed to re-enable after an upgrade) video looping while leaving a 5 minute clip length. It was filling the drive then failing to write any more, of course. I'm going to try the 64GB card again as Fat32, apparently this camera like Fat32 for 64GB cards and exFat for anything larger. Oddhair fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 6, 2015 19:13
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PenisMonkey posted:I see nothing wrong with the lights. It's idiots who can't tell the difference between 40 yards and 150 yards. That's just one of the problems I see regularly at that intersection. There are six inputs that feed into two signals 100 yards apart, and various signs that are completely ignored. I've been almost hit a number of times, so I (and most people who frequent it), know what to look out for. It's the people who don't travel through it everyday that cause the problems.
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Oct 6, 2015 20:48
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DropShadow posted:That's just one of the problems I see regularly at that intersection. There are six inputs that feed into two signals 100 yards apart, and various signs that are completely ignored. I've been almost hit a number of times, so I (and most people who frequent it), know what to look out for. It's the people who don't travel through it everyday that cause the problems. Welcome to every interstate on/off ramp in every major city. Nothing wrong with the lights or design of the intersection. It's the idiots behind the wheel. Don't really know what your city can do about them. Here are some examples from Atlanta. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXHivCIXeuE
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Oct 6, 2015 21:11
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Not my video but this happened two days ago on my morning commute just a few minutes after I drove past this part. All I can think of seeing the white Chevy is "but that's not my favorite way though!" https://youtu.be/Hb4LlGBpq-8 The Chevy fled the scene but was later located by the state police. Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Oct 8, 2015 |
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Oct 8, 2015 04:05
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drat that sucks, that person definitely needs some alone time re: their license. Speaking of inappropriate lane changes, AT&T asks: "How's My Driving?" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypsdHXwGbPk Pretty lovely, since you asked <  > If there had been someone on my right I would be having a much worse night right now.I thought about doxxing him on ATT's facebook or something, but I actually was a Uverse premise tech back in the late 00's and I know what a lovely job it is and what a lovely company they are to work for. Since he didn't actually impact my car I'm gonna let him skate THIS TIME... vvv Yeah he just drives straight over all those curved lines as the lane exits right, not sure what is going on there. Hopefully not since judging by the height of the cam he must have been in a pretty big truck himself. Takes No Damage fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Oct 8, 2015 |
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Oct 8, 2015 06:51
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Scruff McGruff posted:Not my video but this happened two days ago on my morning commute just a few minutes after I drove past this part. All I can think of seeing the white Chevy is "but that's not my favorite way though!" Is it just me, or does it look like the dashcam driver was trying to pull the same stunt as the Chevy? Maybe he saw the accident was about to happen and just continued on to capture it/help out, but it doesn't look at all like he was going to take the exit in the first place.
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Oct 8, 2015 07:00
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Takes No Damage posted:drat that sucks, that person definitely needs some alone time re: their license. poo poo job or not, you should report it. Because this won't be the only time it happens and next time could be a major accident.
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Oct 8, 2015 15:11
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Don't pass on the right, yo. (Doesn't excuse him, I'm just saying.) I got a memory card for my Genius DVR-HD500D and it's working good. I did a test run or two and the sound quality is terrible, though - it's picking up pulsing or something from the engine so the sound is distorted and choppy. I think it might have to do with where I mounted it - just behind and below the rear view mirror, so it's right up nearly against the glass. It just seems like the mic is really sensitive. Any ideas? Otherwise I'm quite pleased. It records both the front and the rear cameras independently, I can tell it to record in 1m, 3m, or 5m files, the field of view seems to be reasonably wide, and the camera feels reasonably well put-together. For $100 it's not a bad deal.
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Oct 10, 2015 19:32
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Is the currently cheap dash cam darling still the G1W? I see them from a company called Spy Tec on Amazon for $60 CDN. I commute 200 Kms daily and have seen some poo poo. After a few really close calls lately and a hit and run that I luckily captured on my phone id rather this daily insanity was recorded.
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Oct 10, 2015 21:39
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8ender posted:Is the currently cheap dash cam darling still the G1W? I see them from a company called Spy Tec on Amazon for $60 CDN. Mobius action cam is more expensive, but exceeds the performance of the G1W in every measure.
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Oct 10, 2015 21:52
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8ender posted:Is the currently cheap dash cam darling still the G1W? I see them from a company called Spy Tec on Amazon for $60 CDN. In general, if you can part with the extra cash, go with a Mobius, the G1W works well enough... when it's not broken. I'm on my third in two years. Buy cheap buy twice(thrice), right? IIRC SpyTec is alright as is BlueSkySea and whatever that french one is. Blackboxmycar.com usually has some good prices on cameras too.
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Oct 11, 2015 00:58
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Leperflesh posted:Don't pass on the right, yo. (Doesn't excuse him, I'm just saying.) I don't know if any dashcam really has good sound quality but it sounds like yours might be picking up alternator whine through the electrical socket. I don't know if there's anything you can do about that.
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Oct 11, 2015 08:02
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Leperflesh posted:Don't pass on the right, yo. (Doesn't excuse him, I'm just saying.) If this was I10, you could never pass anyone, ever, if you followed that rule.
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Oct 11, 2015 20:04
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Yeah I live in CA and I occasionally pass on the right, but while doing so I'm acutely aware that anyone ahead and to my left may merge right at any time without warning, because assuming nobody is passing you on the right is a normal thing and a lot of people have a blind spot they don't check with an over-shoulder look before doing so. CharlesM posted:I don't know if any dashcam really has good sound quality but it sounds like yours might be picking up alternator whine through the electrical socket. I don't know if there's anything you can do about that. That is actually a distinct possibility. I don't suppose I could wire in some sort of rectifier or something? I'm now wired directly into the circuit that powers the socket. e. Comparing different videos: -There's definitely a thrumming that coincides with engine speed -There's definitely more noise with the engine running than off -The really horrible distortion is when the fan or A/C is running. One more detail: my car shocks people. I get out of the car and instinctively brush the frame with the back of my forearm now, because it will zap me every time. I just got used to it and ignore it but sometimes I have a passenger and they get a surprise when they exit and touch the door or frame. It's not enough to be dangerous, but its enough to cause a surprising zap that can actually sting pretty good for a second if you get it somewhere sensitive, like your fingertips. So maybe there's some grounding issue? It's a 2003 Mazda Protege5, if that matters. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Oct 15, 2015 |
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Oct 15, 2015 18:16
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Leperflesh posted:One more detail: my car shocks people. I get out of the car and instinctively brush the frame with the back of my forearm now, because it will zap me every time. I just got used to it and ignore it but sometimes I have a passenger and they get a surprise when they exit and touch the door or frame. It's not enough to be dangerous, but its enough to cause a surprising zap that can actually sting pretty good for a second if you get it somewhere sensitive, like your fingertips. My 2002 Toyota Camry did this too me every single time I got out, sometimes strong enough to make a digit go numb. It never seemed to shock anyone else though. It was bitter-sweet trading that car in because on one hand it had performed reliably for 12 years needing only oil/brakes/tires but on the other I never had to get shocked by it again.
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Oct 15, 2015 19:27
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Leperflesh posted:One more detail: my car shocks people. I get out of the car and instinctively brush the frame with the back of my forearm now, because it will zap me every time. I just got used to it and ignore it but sometimes I have a passenger and they get a surprise when they exit and touch the door or frame. It's not enough to be dangerous, but its enough to cause a surprising zap that can actually sting pretty good for a second if you get it somewhere sensitive, like your fingertips. I always assume this is due to the fabric in the seat. Maybe spray it with some static guard or something. I had a Volvo that did this really badly, one of the only cloth seat Volvos I've ever driven. I got to the point where I would hold the window frame as I put my foot down on the ground, and the second I did I could feel myself discharge, but without a painful shock. Weird stuff.
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Oct 15, 2015 20:18
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Yeah I sorta assumed that, but now it's making me wonder if it's not the car gaining a static charge that gets discharged into my body. There doesn't seem to be any variation in the shock based on what I'm wearing or how long I've been driving.
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Oct 15, 2015 21:17
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LloydDobler posted:I always assume this is due to the fabric in the seat. Maybe spray it with some static guard or something. I had a Volvo that did this really badly, one of the only cloth seat Volvos I've ever driven. I got to the point where I would hold the window frame as I put my foot down on the ground, and the second I did I could feel myself discharge, but without a painful shock. Weird stuff. I've actually noticed that tires make a big difference. It sounds silly, but actually makes sense. Interestingly enough my first-gen Mazda Protege actually had a little spot on the door frame that you were supposed to touch to ground yourself.
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Oct 15, 2015 21:21
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I'm running Kumho Exsta 4Xes but back when I had the OEM tires (Pirellis I think?) there wasn't any difference.
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Oct 15, 2015 21:26
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For me, its the type of shoes. One pair does it, any other pair is fine.
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Oct 16, 2015 00:23
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Any amount of driving that gets my TJ warmed up in the dry as gently caress winter here also gives it enough charge to zap me from half an inch or more. It's not so bad if I swing the door wide open, hop out without touching the door, firmly grab a key and discharge the potential through the key. loving up can make your fingertips go numb for a few hours.
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Oct 16, 2015 02:21
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My old Protege 5 would introduce alternator noise to pretty much anything plugged into the lighter socket and outputting audio. That alternator itself also sounded like the Jetsons space car and was really annoying.
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Oct 16, 2015 04:48
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8ender posted:My old Protege 5 would introduce alternator noise to pretty much anything plugged into the lighter socket and outputting audio. That alternator itself also sounded like the Jetsons space car and was really annoying. drat. I was hoping this was something minor I could fix, but if it's endemic to the car, I may have more trouble. Maybe I'll ask in the DIY wiring thread about how to clean up the power coming from that circuit.
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Oct 16, 2015 22:02
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Leperflesh posted:drat. I was hoping this was something minor I could fix, but if it's endemic to the car, I may have more trouble. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lnHKJgzLVdP/learn/learningcenter/car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html
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Oct 16, 2015 22:16
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Leperflesh posted:drat. I was hoping this was something minor I could fix, but if it's endemic to the car, I may have more trouble. IIRC some Protege owners were reporting success with things like this: http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-NS12-InLine-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0007V5X4U Edit: my bad, I meant the ground loop isolators like this: http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-B25N-Ground-Isolator/dp/B000LP4RMG/ref=pd_bxgy_422_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0A575DXWWGMEE16260K6 8ender fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Oct 17, 2015 |
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Oct 17, 2015 06:27
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spog posted:http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lnHKJgzLVdP/learn/learningcenter/car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html Hmm. Some useful hints in here about how I can improve the grounding, which seems like a likely culprit. 8ender posted:Edit: my bad, I meant the ground loop isolators like this: This would help if my stereo was getting noise, but the dashcam is only connected to the car's electrical via two very small (probably 24 gauge) wires on the 12v cigarette lighter circuit. unless I can just cut the RCA jacks off and wire it in inline?
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Oct 17, 2015 23:07
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Leperflesh posted:Hmm. Some useful hints in here about how I can improve the grounding, which seems like a likely culprit. Yeah you're right. I'd try the filter I linked above it.
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Oct 18, 2015 00:01
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Which dashcam to buy? Mobius or B40/A118? They're roughly the same price. No reason to buy a street guardian right? Mobius $83.99 http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-Sports/dp/B00GT2B4R6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445394065&sr=8-1&keywords=mobius Mobius dashcam package? $99.99 http://www.amazon.com/Angle-Mobius-ActionCam-Camera-Memory/dp/B00GPXYVQU B40-c $71.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUQD9L6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A2LTP4IRWNF1QK I was leaning towards the B40 unless you guys tell me I'm wrong.
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Oct 21, 2015 03:24
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I love my Mobius. Get the dash cam kit plus the stuff needed to hardwire it in your car.
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Oct 21, 2015 03:50
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Hdip posted:Which dashcam to buy? Mobius or B40/A118? They're roughly the same price. No reason to buy a street guardian right? Its worth checking which actually fits. The mobius wouldn't fit between the windscreen and rear-view mirror in my car but the B40 will. On most cars the mobius will work okay.
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Oct 21, 2015 16:47
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I just got a B40 and it's excellent. Really discreet and the quality is good.
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Oct 21, 2015 19:12
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Hdip posted:No reason to buy a street guardian right? I assume you're talking about the Street Guardian SG9665GC. It uses the same outer case as B40/A118 but the internals are completely different. For me personally the upgraded hardware and reliability combined with Street Guardian's great support and presence on DashCamTalk made it worth the extra cost.
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Oct 21, 2015 22:54
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I sold my car with my G1W-H still installed to sweeten the deal for the buyer so I replaced it with a Rexing F9, which is supposedly a G1W with improved lens and build quality. It was $68 on Amazon with a lightning deal. The firmware still has the same quirks as the G1W but the build quality is much better. I never pulled any good footage off my G1W-H to compare it to but here's an sample of the Rexing (download and view, the transcode is awful).
NOTinuyasha fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 19:00
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