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Router questions I have wired cat 5e through to one of my rooms which is a large converted garage. I'm in the UK with BT Infinity and while the home hub is pretty reliable in general, its wifi signal is not the best. I've tried wireless extenders (albeit a couple of cheap ones) and they've not been great at getting the signal into my gaming room (converted garage so past a couple of walls and an external wall). I have a spare HomeHub modem/router and went through some guides on how to configure it as a wireless AP, however it keeps crapping out, which is apparently a thing that can happen with the latest version so I was thinking of getting a new Wireless Router, plugging it into one of the ethernet sockets in there and using it as a switch for my home server and Sonos in that room as well as wireless access. Fibre->House-Modem-Cable->2nd router Is there anything recommended as being particularly good for this. Googling around has seen a range of 'just get powerline' (which i'd rather not mess around with as there are two electric ring circuits involved) to modems in WAP mode being best, to just using any router.
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Oct 9, 2015 23:09
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unruly posted:So, question about powerline. I live in a condo that is connected (possibly electrically) to other condo units. What would happen if multiple people had these units installed? Would we see each other's networks? The TP Link adapters I have, you can configure them to be secure with a unique network name/key much like a wireless network. http://www.tp-link.com/en/faq-258.html
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Oct 9, 2015 23:26
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unruly posted:So, question about powerline. I live in a condo that is connected (possibly electrically) to other condo units. What would happen if multiple people had these units installed? Would we see each other's networks? If you have your own electric meter (i.e. you have an account in your name for electricity), you are not on a shared circuit with anyone.
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Oct 9, 2015 23:40
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PST posted:Router questions Since you already have a cat 5e line running between your main router and that room I would just pick up another wifi router and use it as a switch and AP exactly as you suggested. Any consumer wifi router will do the job. Just give it a static address on the same subnet as your current router, say 192.168.1.2 or whatever, disable its DHCP, ignore its WAN port, and configure its wifi with the same SSID and wifi security settings but on a different wifi channel. Preferably a channel at least 5 channels apart for 2.4ghz wifi. So channels 1 and 6, or 4 and 9, ect...
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Oct 9, 2015 23:41
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Goetta posted:Yeah I was thinking about that but the Wifi in my house gets sketchy towards the front room so having an extra router out there has been pretty nice for laptops and whatnot. Looking at reviews those are only slightly faster than ones rated as 1200. I've got a 1200 set and I can get about 40-60mb/s through mine. One review I found for that one you linked suggested it managed 10mb/s faster than a 1200 set, which is nice but it's not gigabit.
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Oct 10, 2015 09:05
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I decided to try one of these as an alternative to consumer grade frustrations. It's harder to configure but you can't beat the price. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to configure QoS from the CLI. That's today's project. http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C
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Oct 10, 2015 19:09
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flosofl posted:If you have your own electric meter (i.e. you have an account in your name for electricity), you are not on a shared circuit with anyone. Edit: Fixed to make sense. unruly fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Oct 10, 2015 |
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Oct 10, 2015 22:00
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I want a pfSense box to use as a router, is there any dual-NIC options under $100? I was considering this ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1E8-001H-00003&cm_re=shuttle_mini-pc-_-56-101-151-_-Product ) but I would still need CPU, RAM and internal drive. At that point I might as well build an HTPC instead. I was hoping there would be something under $100, I know I could buy a used 1U server from ebay for that much that has multiple NICs but I want something quiet, not something with blower fans.
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Oct 11, 2015 07:11
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Is Windows Firewall any good on Windows 7? If not what are some alternatives?
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Oct 11, 2015 07:28
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Meta Ridley posted:I want a pfSense box to use as a router, is there any dual-NIC options under $100? I looked at going down that rabbit hole of building one myself and the cheapest I could come out to was around $249 for a micro-ATX with about the same features as the SG-2220. Which is $299. At that point it probably makes more sense to purchase it from pfSense since you also get a warranty as well as tech support with it. For something I would consider mission critical --and let's face it the edge device on my home network is mission critical --I just wouldn't trust cheap-rear end equipment sourced from eBay.
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Oct 11, 2015 12:59
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pfSense is only cheap if you're got a bunch of old hardware sitting around that you can re-purpose for it. If you're buying new then, like flosofl said, it's going to be hard to beat the $299 price of the basic offering on their website. If you're looking for a dedicated router for under $100 that's a step up from standard consumer stuff then you should take a look at either an EdgeRouter Lite or EdgeRouterX from Ubiquity or a hEX from Mikrotik. These should have pretty much all the same features as pfSense and perform just as well.
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Oct 11, 2015 16:49
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Intel dq77kb is what I use for my pfsense box, it's an awesome socket 1155 board with dual nics, msata support in mini thin-itx. It's discontinued but you can still find it around. Amazon has it ranging from $89 to 149. This plus a Celeron G1620 $(40), 2GB ram from eBay ($10), mini-box.com m350 case ($40) and an old laptop power supply handle my gigabit fiber.
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Oct 11, 2015 18:41
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Another reasonable option for pfSense hardware is the Supermicro 5015A-EHF-D525 which can be found used for under $200 on eBay. It has two on-board Intel 82574L NICs, IPMI remote management, and works great with BSD- and Linux-based distributions. Also rackmount if that's your thing.
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Oct 11, 2015 21:19
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Jewel Repetition posted:Is Windows Firewall any good on Windows 7? If not what are some alternatives? The software firewall built into Windows 7 and later is quite good as its actually the firewall from Windows Server shoved into the client version of the Windows OS. Its even not too hard to configure if you understand firewalls. However I still feel that a dedicated firewall device such as pfSense, an EdgerouterX, or a good consumer router is a better idea in most situations. Mostly because a PC has a pretty large attack surface that the local firewall cannot protect. (web browser plugins, malicious websites/adds, phishing emails, people downloading and running stupid things, ect...) Dedicated firewall devices don't have these issues and are generally only attackable directly over the network via their admin interfaces. Being firewalls this is also the sort of attack they are designed to prevent so they can protect themselves quite well. Well, unless you have a Netgear. Antillie fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 15:36
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SamDabbers posted:Another reasonable option for pfSense hardware is the Supermicro 5015A-EHF-D525 which can be found used for under $200 on eBay. It has two on-board Intel 82574L NICs, IPMI remote management, and works great with BSD- and Linux-based distributions. Also rackmount if that's your thing. It's probably superloud (and in a really obnoxious high pitched way) though as rackmount stuff usually is.
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Oct 14, 2015 15:26
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My girlfriend and I are moving in together, we have a rental home which is nice but has no real cat5 wiring. The only cable drop is in the living room, the office will be upstairs one floor and will probably house my NAS and gaming PC. In the past I've always hardwired our NAS but I'm thinking about trying wireless this time since there will be minimal interference. I would normally just wire this up but its a rental and the landlord is anal retentive so we're worried about losing our security deposit. I have an Asus rt-n66u at the moment, is this a horrible idea without moving to one of the newer AC routers? I don't often transfer anything to/from the NAS, it basically just streams moderate bitrate stuff. I can't seem to find any decent desktop PCIE wireless network cards that aren't $100 either.
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Oct 14, 2015 23:41
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The Gunslinger posted:My girlfriend and I are moving in together, we have a rental home which is nice but has no real cat5 wiring. The only cable drop is in the living room, the office will be upstairs one floor and will probably house my NAS and gaming PC. In the past I've always hardwired our NAS but I'm thinking about trying wireless this time since there will be minimal interference. I would normally just wire this up but its a rental and the landlord is anal retentive so we're worried about losing our security deposit. I would try powerline Ethernet for the NAS first.
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Oct 15, 2015 01:03
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The Gunslinger posted:My girlfriend and I are moving in together, we have a rental home which is nice but has no real cat5 wiring. The only cable drop is in the living room, the office will be upstairs one floor and will probably house my NAS and gaming PC. In the past I've always hardwired our NAS but I'm thinking about trying wireless this time since there will be minimal interference. I would normally just wire this up but its a rental and the landlord is anal retentive so we're worried about losing our security deposit. I agree with Mantle. Try power line adapters first if you find that your N wifi router can't do the job with wifi alone. As for N vs AC its mostly a question of bandwidth. I would try it out with the RT-N66U and see how it goes. Then if you feel that you need more wifi bandwidth and absolutely all of your wifi devices support AC you can pick up an AC router. I say all because if even one "N only" device joins an AC network the entire network will slow down to N speeds all the time.
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Oct 15, 2015 01:58
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Hmm ok. I'm pretty weary of powerline network stuff after the first generation issues but I guess its been awhile. I was looking at some benchmarks and it appears that the latency is much lower overall even if it can't hit the same bandwidth maximums as wireless-AC. Does the Netgear Powerline 1200 pass muster?
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Oct 15, 2015 02:53
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The Gunslinger posted:Hmm ok. I'm pretty weary of powerline network stuff after the first generation issues but I guess its been awhile. I was looking at some benchmarks and it appears that the latency is much lower overall even if it can't hit the same bandwidth maximums as wireless-AC. It's all well and good to look at benchmarks, but powerline adapters are pretty much a "buy and see how it works in your specific house" type hardware. Different wiring, outlets being on different phases, appliances putting noise in the line, etc, will all impact your performance. That said I've been very happy with my TPLink 1Gbps set. It's not as good as a dedicated cat6 (obviously) but they sync at around 800Mbps in my house, and don't add any discernible latency. John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Oct 15, 2015 |
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Oct 15, 2015 05:30
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Ok thanks guys, I will do some more research and make sure I get it from a place with a good return policy. The D-Link AV2 unit looks good but only has one ethernet port, the TP-Link one has 3 so I could hook up both machines easily. The house is only 15-20 years old so hopefully the wiring is in good shape. I guess if all else fails I will just try to slip the cable guy a bit of cash to run another coax line. I wish the landlord would just let me do a Cat6 run, would take all of 30 minutes but oh well.
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Oct 15, 2015 13:46
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You could always mention that a proper cat6 run with nice looking face plates at each end would increase the value of the property.
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Oct 15, 2015 14:18
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Yeah I tried no go. Landlord had a prior tenant make confetti out of the drywall. I was just going to go ahead and do it but my girlfriend thinks we'll lose the security deposit and :compromise:
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Oct 15, 2015 14:21
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Compared to all that a $50 device that can be removed and taken with you to the next place seems worth a try!
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Oct 15, 2015 15:21
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The first couple generations of powerline weren't so great (85mbps/200mbps units). The newer ones marketed as 500mbps or higher are pretty decent. I bought a 30 dollar set of TP-Link 500 adapters almost 2 years ago, and they connect anywhere between 90 to 130mbps in my house which is plenty for pretty much anything I need. Some of the newer ones marketed as 600, gigabit or 1200 MIMO are even better. Buy them somewhere with a decent return policy and send them back if they don't work well.
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Oct 15, 2015 23:34
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I've got multiple xboxes (360s and xbones) in my house, and it seems like historically I've had problems with that on routers with janky uPnP implementations. My current buffalol with DD-WRT works fine, but is getting a bit long in the tooth (I'm doing wifi via a Time Capsule), any particular recommendations on something with good uPnP support? I looked at the ubiquiti edge router max, but it looks like EdgeOS is hit or miss with multiple xboxes.
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Oct 15, 2015 23:56
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Maneki Neko posted:I've got multiple xboxes (360s and xbones) in my house, and it seems like historically I've had problems with that on routers with janky uPnP implementations. My current buffalol with DD-WRT works fine, but is getting a bit long in the tooth (I'm doing wifi via a Time Capsule), any particular recommendations on something with good uPnP support? Looks like at least a few guys got it working according to this thread: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/uPnP-for-Multiple-Xbox-Ones-upnp-and-upnp2/td-p/1011775 If you're looking at the Edgerouter X, $49 isn't much of a risk if it doesn't work out.
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Oct 16, 2015 07:37
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Bishyaler posted:Looks like at least a few guys got it working according to this thread: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/uPnP-for-Multiple-Xbox-Ones-upnp-and-upnp2/td-p/1011775 Yeah, I saw that, the "thread going for a year without a resolution" part isn't super encouraging though. Edgerouter X is what I was looking at, not sure why I wrote Max, maybe I'll just get one and try.
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Oct 16, 2015 17:49
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I don't have any experience with the Xbox One or 360 but pfSense has a solid uPnP implementation. It handles my two Dish DVRs, two different PCs running Skype, and a bit torrent client on a third PC all opening ports via uPnP just fine. I assume that the process described in the first post in that thread is what is happening as the two PCs running Skype aren't aware of each other but are each forwarding different sets of ports to themselves. The two Dish DVRs are aware of each other but they are each forwarding a different port as well. Of course an Edgerouter X is much cheaper than building a pfSense box unless you happen to have a spare PC sitting around with at least two NICs. Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Oct 17, 2015 |
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Oct 16, 2015 19:19
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I'm having issues with my new Powerline. I just built a PC and installed this Gigabye GC-WB867D-I network adapter. It suddenly died (and my RMA period is up), so I bought this D-Link AV2 1000 powerline. The Powerline works with my PC just fine, but it prevents me from connect other devices wirelessly to our Wifi (I can't connect them to our wifi at all). When I unplug the Powerline, I can connect other devices to our Wifi just fine. But then my PC doesn't have an Internet connection. It loving sucks. Why would a powerline screw with my wifi, like this? And why would my PCI network card stop working so suddenly? I just want some darned Internet.  EDIT: Just returned the Powerline and bought an ASUS PCE-AC68, but my Z97 mobo won't detect the wireless card. I've installed the drivers, and reset my router, but the adapter isn't appearing in my Network Connections. So, it sounds like I'm having a motherboard issue of some sort. Any guesses? I'm running Windows 10. EDIT #2: I think I fixed it. Some 'Unknown devices' appeared after my Windows 10 reintallation, so it looks like my old adapter's drivers were causing issues with my new adapters'. Then, I had to manually install drivers downloaded from ASUS' site, since the ones that come packaged with the adapter don't work very well with Windows 10. melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Oct 17, 2015 |
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Oct 17, 2015 16:13
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I want to take a netgear WGR914, have it grab the wifi signal in my house (from the other netgear router, newer one) and not repeat the signal but let me plug ethernet devices into it. Is there a name for that so I can look up a guide?
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Oct 18, 2015 03:15
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two_beer_bishes posted:I want to take a netgear WGR914, have it grab the wifi signal in my house (from the other netgear router, newer one) and not repeat the signal but let me plug ethernet devices into it. Is there a name for that so I can look up a guide? Wireless bridge
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Oct 18, 2015 03:29
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two_beer_bishes posted:I want to take a netgear WGR914, have it grab the wifi signal in my house (from the other netgear router, newer one) and not repeat the signal but let me plug ethernet devices into it. Is there a name for that so I can look up a guide? This is usually only possible with 3rd party firmware such as DD-WRT. Some quick checking seems to indicate that the WGR914 cannot run DD-WRT. So you may be out of luck. However even if you do get this working it will not be a true wireless bridge. The WGR914 (or whatever router you end up using) will be acting as a wifi client, much like a PC would. Due to a design assumption in the 802.11 spec (the assumption being that each wifi client only has one MAC address) this forces the WGR914 to do one of two things, it will need to either: A. Act as a router and perform PAT at layer 3 just like a normal wifi router does. or B. Act as a bridge and perform 1 to 1 NAT at layer 2. Both of these have limitations. Method A means that you will have separate subnet ranges on each side of the WGR914. eg: <internet><--->main router<---><192.168.1.0/24 network><--->WGR914<---><192.168.2.0/24 network> This will work fine for giving everything internet access but sharing things between the two internal networks will be a pain and will require you to forward ports on the WGR914. Method B will only allow one device to be wired into the WGR914 however that one device will be on the same network as everything else in your house so sharing files and things between the PC connected to the WGR914 and the rest of your stuff will work just like normal. Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 03:50
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drat, thanks guys.
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Oct 18, 2015 04:02
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I live in an apartment building and 2.4ghz is saturated. A new wireless card for my laptop + an Archer C7 and holy moly wireless is usable again. I am posting this because many suffer in silence with lovely 2.4ghz wireless when the 5ghz range is basically empty (except for the prick upstairs, in my case). The uploads from my laptop to my PC went from 2.4 MBps to 25-40MBps with a $100 investment. I went AC because my building is old as gently caress so why not (my desktop is cat5) plus I wanted the bandwidth for the NAS I have in the mail. Basically, get on 5ghz N, AC or powerline if you live near other humans. I hope I have reached some lost souls with this post; I wish I had been saved sooner. Thank you for listening.
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Oct 18, 2015 05:49
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Yudo posted:I am posting this because many suffer in silence with lovely 2.4ghz wireless when the 5ghz range is basically empty (except for the prick upstairs, in my case). and then at least one of your stupid APs decides to hop on the same channel, despite having eight billion MHz of free spectrum available 
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Oct 18, 2015 14:14
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Antillie posted:B. Act as a bridge and perform 1 to 1 NAT at layer 2. That's not true at all. I ran a setup like this for years and once you have the bridge created you can connect as many devices as you want to the bridge side and they all pull their own IP from the router just like any other device would.
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Oct 18, 2015 15:19
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Krailor posted:That's not true at all. I ran a setup like this for years and once you have the bridge created you can connect as many devices as you want to the bridge side and they all pull their own IP from the router just like any other device would. I guess they fixed that issue in DD-WRT. In that case the router is joining the wifi network multiple times with a different MAC address each time. That was always the ideal solution. I wasn't aware they had finally implemented it. Or where both of your routers running DD-WRT? In that case you could have created a true wifi bridge that does not have this limitation. Or are you talking about method A where the second router performs NAT? Antillie fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 17:00
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i bought a powerline extender the other day. my situation is hopeless--nyc apartment building with 25+ networks in range, a bathroom between me and the router, which is already 30' away, cinderblock walls. can i run a router on the destination end? i feel like if i just put one in bridge mode, it should work, right?
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Oct 18, 2015 19:27
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I have 4 computers, 1 ps4, 1 amazon fire tv, 2 ipads, 3 iphones and two smart TVs. I am using the duel band wireless router in the TW modem. The house is a one story L shaped house that is about 2.5k sqft. I really have no idea what to get I was wanting to get something with AC because its new and better? Would tri-band be good with all the devices that would be connected? I normally see less than 10 wifi points that the computers notice from neighbors. I don't know what to do and when I look most people don't seem to have as much crap connected to the network as I would have.
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Oct 20, 2015 00:39
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