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Abu Dave posted:I still can't decide on what to get, and i'm blaming it on the dealer(s). No one has the base model Toyota Tacoma in, just the souped up ones. Which made me look at the Honda CR-V's and they seem nice I guess Tell them what you want and that it's that sale or no sale.
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Oct 23, 2015 20:26
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I did exactly that and got the base model Tacoma sold to me.  Now to look for insurance 
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Oct 24, 2015 02:40
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Oh hey cool that's the exact truck I want. 4cyl 4x4 manual? How much did you pay? I've been looking for one for a while.
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Oct 24, 2015 15:16
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Hey car nerds. After giving my girlfriend some driving lessons in my manual trans 2009 Hyundai Accent, it's been buzzing occasionally. Never while in neutral, and generally only around 2.5k+ rpm or so in any gear, though it goes in and out. It's got about 70k miles and I've not changed the trans fluid to my knowledge. How much should I worry?
doug fuckey fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Oct 24, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 21:44
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06 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Hemi - 38k miles. It started idling a little rough occasionally and the RPM gauge would sit at 0 when idling - same gas mileage and power as always. Started idling much worse the past week so I changed out the crank sensor, no change. CEL finally came on, came out to a Cyl 1 misfire. Changed the coil today, even worse. Unplugging the #1 coilpack doesn't seem to change much. Where should I start? Smooths out with throttle and the RPM gauge works. Injector?
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Oct 24, 2015 21:50
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BlackMK4 posted:06 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Hemi - 38k miles. It started idling a little rough occasionally and the RPM gauge would sit at 0 when idling - same gas mileage and power as always. Started idling much worse the past week so I changed out the crank sensor, no change. CEL finally came on, came out to a Cyl 1 misfire. Changed the coil today, even worse. Unplugging the #1 coilpack doesn't seem to change much. Where should I start? Smooths out with throttle and the RPM gauge works. Injector? Did you check for spark at the plug(s) itself? Plugs probably aren't worn at that mileage, but you could have a broken wire going to the coilpack. I'd highly doubt a single injector going bad at that mileage. Do modern tachs still read off injector/plug wires or is it all calculated from the crank/cam sensors? I do see lots of reports of faulty tach operation on those trucks from your generation, so that bit could be unrelated.
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Oct 24, 2015 22:13
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I would have assumed the RPM read off the crank angle sensor, which is why I tried that first. The truck has always had weirdness about reading 0 at idle on the tach occasionally, so I think that's just coincidental. I just pulled both plugs for cylinder 1 and they seem fine, though a little wet but don't smell like fuel or oil. I'm going to laugh if it popped the HG. No bubbles in the radiator or overflow or white smoke, though.  I almost wonder if it got some bad gas....? edit: Put the stock coil back in it after putting the plugs back in... no big misfire. CEL is still on, I'll pull it later. gently caress it. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Oct 24, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 22:24
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I was thinking ground the threads while it's out of the cylinder and see if the plug fires, but if it's running better then whatever.
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Oct 24, 2015 22:52
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Safety Dance posted:Yeah. Just get a neoprene washer. Alternatively, you might be able to find a nylon screw.  *(after sawing off the horrible OEM rearview mirror that they made integral to the light socket for god knows what reason)
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Oct 25, 2015 01:43
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Anyone tried this before? DIY smoke machine with 3psi regulated air and mineral oil smoke. http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/general-chat/topic35820.html I have a "large leak" and don't want to pay a shop $100+ to do the same thing with fancier hoses and gauges. stevobob fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 17:16
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stevobob posted:Anyone tried this before? DIY smoke machine with 3psi regulated air and mineral oil smoke. Yes.  Works great.
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Oct 25, 2015 17:31
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Motronic posted:Yes. Do you just haul any old vacuum line off, plug one side and smoke the other?
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Oct 25, 2015 17:59
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stevobob posted:Do you just haul any old vacuum line off, plug one side and smoke the other? Not sure what you mean. That regulator on the side is an LP regulator. They are good to about 200 PSI and put out 1/2 a PSI on the other side (into the can). Once you get the wick hot enough (only cover it part way with mineral oil) you have 1/2 PSI of smoke coming out of the hose. Throw it on the brake booster line or something for general intake vacuum leaks. If you don't find anything you need to look at a vac diagram and figure out where there are valves in the system of whatever type and either actuate them or just plug in past the valve. This also works great for finding exhaust leaks. Just find a rubber stopper the size of your tail pipe, drill a hole and plug the hose in. Give it a few minutes to fill with smoke and you'll find the leak. (protip: drilling through soft rubber plugs sucks rear end, but if you put them in the freezer overnight things go a lot easier)
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Oct 25, 2015 19:24
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I find improvising a hole saw out of a properly-sized piece of expended rifle brass or even tubing works much, much better on soft rubber than a standard drill bit.
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Oct 25, 2015 21:03
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My friend''s 2002 Honda Accord is throwing a P0740 code - torque converter clutch circuit. From looking online, it seems that replacing the TCC solenoid doesn't always fix the issue, the code is sometimes indicative of a bigger tranny issue. Since the part is ~$180, I'm guessing she's much better off just going to a Honda specialist to get it diagnosed? $180 for a part is pretty expensive if it doesn't fix the issue. Apparently the car is shifting fine right now, but the code has been there for a while (and comes back when it's cleared).
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Oct 25, 2015 21:22
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I've mentioned my wife's civic before in this thread and I would appreciate any input on the latest issue. 98 Civic EX 1.6L VTEC, 260,000 miles. There's a tiny bit of oil in the coolant reservoir, just enough to gather around the top of the coolant. The oil looks normal and the coolant level isn't dropping. The car burns a poo poo ton of oil so it's tough to tell if it's using any more than normal. We're bringing the car in on Monday to have the head gasket diagnosed. Anything else we should be looking at?
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Oct 25, 2015 21:25
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Motronic posted:Not sure what you mean. That regulator on the side is an LP regulator. They are good to about 200 PSI and put out 1/2 a PSI on the other side (into the can). Once you get the wick hot enough (only cover it part way with mineral oil) you have 1/2 PSI of smoke coming out of the hose. Yes that's what I meant, which lines to look for. I'll find a vacuum diagram and see where to go. Thanks
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Oct 25, 2015 21:28
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Oh hey cool that's the exact truck I want. 4cyl 4x4 manual? How much did you pay? I've been looking for one for a while. 4cyl 4x4 automatic. It was like 27k. I didn';t hassle down at all was 2 nervous but its a nice truck.
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Oct 25, 2015 21:55
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Zesty Mordant posted:Hey car nerds. After giving my girlfriend some driving lessons in my manual trans 2009 Hyundai Accent, it's been buzzing occasionally. Never while in neutral, and generally only around 2.5k+ rpm or so in any gear, though it goes in and out. It's got about 70k miles and I've not changed the trans fluid to my knowledge. How much should I worry? Is it a rattle-y buzz? Sounds like an exhaust heat shield to me.
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Oct 25, 2015 22:19
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I want to add some kind of anchors to my truck bed to help with securing loads. What are some good products for this, and what should I expect to have to do for installation? I don't have stake pockets or anything else that I could pop some product into, just a plain bed on an 87 b2000. Drilling is a-ok with me.
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Oct 26, 2015 01:42
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Parts Kit posted:I want to add some kind of anchors to my truck bed to help with securing loads. What are some good products for this, and what should I expect to have to do for installation? I don't have stake pockets or anything else that I could pop some product into, just a plain bed on an 87 b2000. Drilling is a-ok with me. You can get some cheap d rings nearly anywhere that are a simple bolt in setup. They can come with square holes so you can use carriage bolts on them. Search for d rings or tie downs and you can find them with some hassle online. The bigger they get they eventually get to be weld on only but I doubt you need that strength in that application.
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Oct 26, 2015 03:13
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I'm buying a new set of DWSes for my 2010 GTI. How do I know if I need an alignment or not? My car seems to track fine and I haven't noticed anything abnormal. Should I just do it since I'm buying new tires?
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Oct 26, 2015 03:13
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 Looked at a New 2015 Accord last night. See on the block between the exhaust cover thing on the left and the dipstick on the right there is a shiny faced hole? It is threaded and say 0.5-1.0 cm deep. Is there something missing there? The shiny surface looked like it is meant to mate to something, like a washer or a bolt.
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Oct 26, 2015 03:17
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Can't say for sure since I don't own one, but its likely either for an optional piece of equipment to attach to that that car doesn't have, or else its only used during the manufacturing process.
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Oct 26, 2015 03:20
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I replaced a fuel tank and sending unit in a '71 Challenger today. The sending unit has an electrical connection for the gas gauge, but I haven't been able to figure out how to connect the wire/boot to the new sending unit. It just popped right off the old one, but it seems like it won't just press back on to the new one. It looks like the brake distribution block has the same type of connector. Anybody got any tips?
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Oct 26, 2015 03:34
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Number 1 Sexy Dad posted:I replaced a fuel tank and sending unit in a '71 Challenger today. The sending unit has an electrical connection for the gas gauge, but I haven't been able to figure out how to connect the wire/boot to the new sending unit. Is it as simple as a rubber boot/gasket resisting compression? Hard to say without pics.
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Oct 26, 2015 04:18
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H110Hawk posted:
If you're concerned about this (it's a new vehicle under warranty) why not ask them, or open the hood of the dozen on either side of it to see if they are the same?
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Oct 26, 2015 04:24
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opengl128 posted:Is it a rattle-y buzz? Sounds like an exhaust heat shield to me. Sort of rattle-y, I guess, very fast if it is. Pretty much only when I press the accelerator, forgot to mention.
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Oct 26, 2015 04:27
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H110Hawk posted:
Ask the dealer about it if you want, but it is probably a boss for mounting accessories to the head on another vehicle model with the same engine. There's another one down by the exhaust manifold. That, or it's for accessories that weren't in that cars build, etc.
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Oct 26, 2015 04:34
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Motronic posted:If you're concerned about this (it's a new vehicle under warranty) why not ask them, or open the hood of the dozen on either side of it to see if they are the same? I didn't buy it, and it wasn't in with the rest of them. Was just curious if it was obviously something, hence stupid questions. Sales guy had no idea.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:16
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I'd lean more towards possibly mounting bolts used during the assembly process, either of the engine or when dropping it into the car.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:23
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Residency Evil posted:I'm buying a new set of DWSes for my 2010 GTI. How do I know if I need an alignment or not? My car seems to track fine and I haven't noticed anything abnormal. Should I just do it since I'm buying new tires? Things like excessive (but symmetric) toe can cause tire wear without affecting driveability. You might as well, what's another $100 or whatever on top of the, what, $600 installed for the tires? Plus a lot of shops and manufacturers won't honor the mileage warranty unless the alignment is known to be good at time of installation, so there's that.
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Oct 26, 2015 06:29
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StormDrain posted:You can get some cheap d rings nearly anywhere that are a simple bolt in setup. They can come with square holes so you can use carriage bolts on them. Search for d rings or tie downs and you can find them with some hassle online. The bigger they get they eventually get to be weld on only but I doubt you need that strength in that application.
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Oct 26, 2015 10:16
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H110Hawk posted:
On the older Honda engines - I know there are holes like that provided for hoisting the engine - the service manual tells you to attach a hoisting bracket to that hole with a M10x1.25 bolt. There should be one diagonally opposite, back of the head for the other hoist point I think. EDIT: I just spent some time researching Honda's "new" K24W engine - every version of it I found - in the CR-V, the Acura ILX and TLX - they all have that hole too. 0toShifty fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 13:21
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Car replacement question: I have a 1997 ranger and 2014 Chevy 1500 single cab. Ranger has 165k miles and we want a replacement by end of summer with four seats. A 2014 Hyundai elantra stick with power package just showed on craigslist in stick, smaller engine, and 15k miles for $12500. Does it make sense to buy this now vs $20k for say hrv later? Price wise makes sense, more power to weight than ranger. Insurance would be higher but fuel savings offsets, wouldn't have payment etc. Guy said his daughter struggled on hills and got something else. Thanks
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Oct 26, 2015 14:07
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Parts Kit posted:So I'll just drill through the bed and bolt it down with the nut on the other side? I was thinking of going with these. Depending on how much of a 400lb gorilla you plan to be with ratchet straps, those might be a little on the weak side. If it were me, I might use those or slightly larger, and I'd make a backing plate to go on the bottom side to better distribute the load. Drill through the bed, hit the exposed metal with some Rustolium, bolt it all together, and then hit that with some more rustolium for good measure.
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Oct 26, 2015 14:55
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Help me goons, I'm at the end of my rope! 2002 Chevy Cavalier LS, 2.2L OHV GAS, 105k miles, Arizona resident/registration stationed in California. No current DTCs. Backstory: ~2 months ago I had been driving around on an illuminated CEL for like the previous 2 months. Shifting from 1-2 and 2-3, the car was frequently lurching hard. Scanned the code, replaced throttle position sensor, lurching stopped, used scanner to clear the code - this is where I hosed up. Failed smog a couple days later due to EVAP & CAT monitors not being ready (this was before I was knowledgeable about OBD monitors). My registration is now expired, and no matter what I do I cannot get the CAT monitor to ready itself for smog. All other monitors complete within a day or two of the battery being pulled. The car runs fine - it's a bit anemic at getting up to highway speed but I just chalked that up to being a 13 year old shitbox Cavalier. Things I have tried: Replaced upstream/downstream O2 sensors (after getting a code for upstream one Replaced ~5 years old battery Replaced air filter Purchased a nice scanner to read live data - from what I've researched, O2 voltages seem legit Ran close to a dozen GM drive cycles Seafoamed brake booster line & gas tank Prayed to the old gods and the new e: maybe noteworthy but I don't think so - ABS light is on with a C1218 DTC – Pump motor circuit short to voltage or motor ground open
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Oct 26, 2015 16:39
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How long have you driven it? It takes a good bit for those monitors to set and short trips won't do it.
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Oct 26, 2015 16:49
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How do I determine which clutch cylinder failed on a car? The fluid level in the resevoir hasn't dropped at all. If I push the pedal to the floor the clutch will disengage like normal, but will slowly re-engage while I hold it there and the pedal becomes soft. After I let it come all the way back up the pedal firms up again.
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Oct 26, 2015 16:52
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rdb posted:How long have you driven it? It takes a good bit for those monitors to set and short trips won't do it. I have read posts online of people talking about them not setting after like 12,000 miles  I've also seen it put that the number of miles don't matter and it's the way in which you drive it (drive cycles) that set them.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:03
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