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Unkempt posted:Here we go. Haha, I hope someone tops this but I have my doubts that it's possible. Fantastic.
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 19:30 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 19:49 |
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Even the comic is perfect. GOON CHILD.
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 19:40 |
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Thanks! I'm asking because as I posted yesterday I'm making a ' what if' vehicle based on an old Wespe SPG I had collecting dust and I want to make it as plausible as possible. I present to you the Vollkettenaufklarer ' Welpe' (Puppy) ; In 1943 the Waffenambt asked Auto-Union and BMM to design a light APC to replace the 250 and 251 halftracks. It needed to carry 6 to 8 soldiers, have a max speed of about 50km/h, be fully tracked, open topped and armored by at least 30mm from the front. They came up with a design based on the Panzer 38(t) chassis called the Vollkettenaufklarer 'Kätchen' (Kitten). prototype of the 'Kitten' My fictional vehicle is meant as a competitor to the Kitten, based on the modified chassis of the Panzer II already in use for the Wespe SPG and Marder Tank Destroyer. It could carry 6 soldiers + driver (5 seated on benches in the back, the commander in front on a folding seat in the aisle next to the engine bay). Armed with 2x MG-42 for close defence it could reach speeds of up to 50 km/h, building on the real-life efforts to redesign the Panzer II into a reconnaissance tank with high speed and good off-road performance. The edge this design had over the 'Kitten' was that the 'Puppy' was based on a chassis that was already in production at the time and plenty of spare parts were available. Other parts used like the benches etc. were also already in use in the 250 and 251 halftracks. Another advantage was that the 'Puppy's silhouette was much lower, making concealment much easier. The engine will be in the space on the right. I'm still not sure where to put the vent for the radiator; in the back next to the bench (where I drew that square) or on top (but no idea how that would fit in the engine bay). The sides will be lengthened and slightly raised, with the gap in the back that is created over the fender to be used as storage bins like the 251. I also need a good idea how to create a door in the back; side swinging door like the 251 D or a door that falls down (think Bradley). Does this make sense? Suggestions are welcome! Also Unkempt, that is loving awesome!
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 19:44 |
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hjp766 posted:Finished the Hi-Mock. You appear to have an airplane stuck to the back of your robot there. Also, needs more guns. Unkempt posted:Here we go. This is loving amazing. I don't even want to finish mine now you bastard (but I will anyway.. probably..).
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 19:59 |
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Unkempt posted:Here we go. This...is ...absolutely...loving ...fantastic. EDIT: the weathering on the pipes etc, the whole thing is sublime. Can I cross post to the miniatures thread to see if we can get some of them motivated?
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 20:11 |
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Unkempt posted:Here we go. I love this so drat much. Great job!
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 20:12 |
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I hope there's a big rusty bolt in the toilet bowl.
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 20:53 |
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Unkempt posted:Here we go. Lovely! How the heck did you do the comic?! Here are some not-great photos of my Ju 290, which I finished a little while ago. The last photo I took outside in gale force winds; moments after the wind caused a wobble that snapped the base of one of the landing gear struts. I can fix it (I bought metal gear for this kit - a good investment clearly) but I need to get epoxy putty.) The kit itself went together well, though I lost some of the depth that I had going on last time I posted photos as some of the colors I couldn't thin properly. The entire thing is done with acrylics, mostly Vallejo with some modelmaster acrylics. I also had a aftermarket antenna set for the radar. The top comes off so you can see the interior, and I built the thing so you can position the rear ramp in its deployed position - as soon as I find a small hinge that I can screw into blocks of wood via tiny, tiny, screws. I have ambitions for the nerd project that dare not speak its name) which I've collected almost all of the plastic bits for. I still need to find 1/72 men (plz help, looking for American or British soldiers not in combat that I can pose) and the appropriate model RR bits to make it. That's a while off, yet. The Ju 290 is 1/72, but the kit is still *BIG* - the real life Ju 290 was very similar in size to the B-29 - so I actually had a glass shelf made, just so I can display it. It was surprisingly cheap - just $40 all in. Also hardcore history nerd note - this Ju 290 A-7 is supposed to look like one captured at the war's end, but has the markings of FAGr 5, which by that point had been disbanded. I just liked the looks better than the ultra-drab KG 200 markings.
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 21:09 |
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Thanks guys, it turned out quite well. Happy with that one.big_g posted:
Sure. Xy Hapu posted:I hope there's a big rusty bolt in the toilet bowl. Sadly not... TBH I really lucked out with the toilet. Took a bit of work but it was exactly the right size. Nebakenezzer posted:Lovely! How the heck did you do the comic?! Photoshopped/printed. It's two sheets stuck together with artist's spray-mount.
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 21:14 |
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There's been a few tanks in this thread lately, but that's not anywhere enough tanks. Have a tank. This is a Heller Somua S35, and it follows the Heller formula to a T: rubber tracks, movable turret hatch, primitive gun breech, two of the same crew figures they stuff into every box. I can't comment on the decals since my kit didn't come with any. This kit has a few features that the Hotchkiss and Renault next to it didn't, namely a freely rotating turret machinegun (without a breech at all) and a rotating commander's cupola. There are also plenty of suspension details underneath the skirts. I swear I took a photo of them, but I can't seem to find it. I had a bit of trouble getting the upper and lower halves of the hull to line up properly, but other than that it's a decent kit. It's not going to blow your mind, but it's a good way to spend twenty to thirty bucks. Plus, it gave me an excuse to paint some ridiculous French camo!
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# ? Nov 8, 2015 23:19 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:There's been a few tanks in this thread lately, but that's not anywhere enough tanks. Have a tank. That looks really nice but seems to have a bit gloss sheen to it. Perhaps some matt varnish might finish it off nice?
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 00:32 |
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I sprayed it with Army Painter matt varnish, dunno why it looks so glossy.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 00:38 |
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I just ordered a Hi-Mock, although there's little chance it will arrive before the end of November. I've never built or painted a robot before. I think I'll try to do it up in one of the ww2 plane camo patterns I've been practicing and maybe have a go at chipping the corners and stuff.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 00:40 |
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The quick build I've been working on for the past week is Tamiya's 1/700 waterline Gneisenau. It's a rather old kit from the seventies, and it has all the idiosyncrasies thereof, such as a 2-piece stern, an engraved swastika on the front hull (as opposed to a decal), and a flagpole that doesn't come with any flag by default (I stole a rather misshapen one from an old revell arizona kit, which itself is...quite a thing). All that's left now are to put the launches and Arado 196s in place, and then give it a wash or two to highlight the anchors and smokestack details. Sorry about the crappy cell-phone pics, I left my camera at home this semester. I did the rigging with polyester thread, but that seems to have been a mistake- the thread doesn't bond very well to the plastic with cyanoacrylate glues, and the glue tends to wick along the thread, causing sections of it to stay straight. Anyone have any advice as far as alternatives for the thread/gluing material before I rig my next project?
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 06:25 |
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Triggerhappypilot posted:Another nice boat! Behold the stretched sprue.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 06:35 |
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So, I'm curious as to how much aftermarket stuff you guys use? seems like you can quickly increase the cost of a kit if you aren't careful.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 15:47 |
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Dukket posted:So, I'm curious as to how much aftermarket stuff you guys use? seems like you can quickly increase the cost of a kit if you aren't careful. I rarely use aftermarket stuff, but it can really raise the cost, yeah. Tracks can run $20+ easy, $50 if you use the fancy metal ones. Photo etch parts for even something small like grilles is going to be another $10 at least. There's a T-34-85 resin/PE turret I'm eyeing in a local store, that costs more than what I paid for the whole kit in the first place. Plus you can really go hog wild with the crew (resin heads, PE accessories), stowage, PE camo net... The list goes on. If you want to make a kit expensive, it can get expensive. I think you can hit $200 bucks easy, $300 with a base and elementary surroundings.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 16:54 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:I rarely use aftermarket stuff, but it can really raise the cost, yeah. Tracks can run $20+ easy, $50 if you use the fancy metal ones. Photo etch parts for even something small like grilles is going to be another $10 at least. There's a T-34-85 resin/PE turret I'm eyeing in a local store, that costs more than what I paid for the whole kit in the first place. Oh my, yes - I can 't believe the cost of barrels and PE, some cool looking stuff, but wow.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 17:05 |
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Dukket posted:So, I'm curious as to how much aftermarket stuff you guys use? seems like you can quickly increase the cost of a kit if you aren't careful. I easily doubled, probably even tripled or more the cost of my boat with non-kit parts. But then again it took over 13 months to build, so I have no regrets at all and cost really didn't factor into it for me. The end result was the only thing I considered, and it was completely worth it in my opinion. Actually every visible part above the deck except for the walnut pieces and a few metal parts are not from the kit. Of course if I was making a $10 crap-tank (or whatever) that I was only going to spend a week or two to build, cost would definitely be an issue/factor in my decisions on what to add.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 17:06 |
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Oh yeah, I forgot, you gotta have a metal barrel! That will be twenty dollars please. Another 10-20 for brass machineguns.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 17:06 |
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The Locator posted:I easily doubled, probably even tripled or more the cost of my boat with non-kit parts. But then again it took over 13 months to build, so I have no regrets at all and cost really didn't factor into it for me. The end result was the only thing I considered, and it was completely worth it in my opinion. Actually every visible part above the deck except for the walnut pieces and a few metal parts are not from the kit. Well, I think its a different story when you get into bigger projects. Itsbeautiful, by the way - I can't wait to see your next project
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 17:08 |
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I usually use a Hornet resin head for my figures because they make or break a figure IMO and they are just so much better than (most) of the plastic ones. But 5 heads are like €10 which is a bit steep. I also buy resin figures sometimes because they look so sharp and are therefor mucg more enjoyable to paint, but they are loving expensive, like €15 to €20 per figure! Other PE/aftermarket sets I usually pick up at modeling shows, like a DML Stug III that I have in my stash that I bought with a Eduard PE set for a combined price of €40. I was recently looking into aftermarket items for a 1/72 Type VII Uboat that I'm going to build with my father. Price of the kit was €50. Total price of all the aftermarket stuff you can buy to make it absolutely beautiful like full interior sets, laser cut wooden deck, resin welding seams, PE sets like railings, turned metal periscopes, metal/resin/PE weapons etc took the final price to €600
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 17:58 |
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Full aftermarket on a 1/24 scale car kit can put you at $100-150, depending on the kit. 1/20th F1 models can easily go to $300. The "boutique kits" from Model Factory Hiro or Studio27 are usually around $400. The 1/12 kits from those same companies are usually $900.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 19:25 |
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I build tanks that will be used as tabletop playing pieces, not for display. So spending just as much as the entire kit on a metal barrel is really not worth it for me. But sure, if I ever got something like a nice 1/35 kit that I painted up for display, and really went whole hog and spent a bunch of time on it, I'd consider some nice brass etched details and such. But now I just see it as a bonus if the kit comes with any non-plastic parts.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 19:36 |
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Dukket posted:So, I'm curious as to how much aftermarket stuff you guys use? seems like you can quickly increase the cost of a kit if you aren't careful. For model ships you can really double, even quadruple, the cost with bits. A 1/700 model might be $50, but I've seen 1/700 pe kits for $150 - then add deck/resin guns and it's ridiculous. A lot of ship kits look pretty average without the pe, especially older ones. It seems to be a pretty severe loss on returns once you go past an average priced pe kit, though. The improvement in the 1/350 tirpitz by applying an old basic eduard kit is huge, a more expensive kit doesn't add that much more again. For tanks and planes I don't really bother, I tend to find what's in the box will do a nice enough looking job (with the exception of a cockpit or kit for an f-111).
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 19:57 |
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I always wonder if there's a point at which someone realises that they replaced the whole model AND replaced another whole model's worth of parts from upgrade kits picking just the best ones from each. I know it happens once, but I really want to know if it happens with upgrade kits parts too. VVVV Arquinsiel fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Nov 9, 2015 |
# ? Nov 9, 2015 20:24 |
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Arquinsiel posted:I always wonder if there's a point at which someone realises that they replaced the whole model AND replaced another whole model's worth of parts from upgrade kits picking just the best ones from each. Model ship of Theseus?
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 21:25 |
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When I built the Ju 290, I got the photoetch antennas because I knew the plastic-molded ones looked like rear end. As I was shopping online, I noticed the store also had a pewter landing gear kit, which was handy, mostly for the amount of sheer durability it brings to the landing gear. It turned out to be extra handy in this case, as the forward bits of the landing gear have to be assembled before you finish the wing.
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 22:37 |
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Nebakenezzer posted:When I built the Ju 290, I got the photoetch antennas because I knew the plastic-molded ones looked like rear end. As I was shopping online, I noticed the store also had a pewter landing gear kit, which was handy, mostly for the amount of sheer durability it brings to the landing gear. It turned out to be extra handy in this case, as the forward bits of the landing gear have to be assembled before you finish the wing. My jagdpanzer 38 hetzer is missing its periscopes for similar reasons. All the instructions say "read these steps all the way through before beginning" but that doesn't mean I'll see the gotchas before I get there. Or that I do what they said. Edit: what the hell, posting a pic. Can't remember whether I posted it back when I "finished" it. VVV haha, gently caress. I hopelessly mangled the MG on my Japanese type 74 that totally isn't inspired by an anime where the SDF fights dragons. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Nov 9, 2015 |
# ? Nov 9, 2015 22:55 |
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The MG on my Hetzer fell inside and I can't get it out
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# ? Nov 9, 2015 23:26 |
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I started on the Tau Ghost Keel tonight, it's actually a pretty cool little kit.
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# ? Nov 10, 2015 22:28 |
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All those Hi-Mocks got me thinking about Gundam again so I was checking out what was available from the early war UC part of Mobile Suit Gundam. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-...EXKH2GBMNN509NV They have some pretty cool sets so I ordered the Zaku II set that comes with two feddie tanks from amazon but it looks like I could them much cheaper from Hobby Link Japan. Unfortunately, they're all back ordered. It says wait time is 4-6 weeks which isn't a problem if it means getting them for more than half price. Does anybody know if HLJ's back orders ever actually get restocked or is it like a lot of other importer websites I've seen where older kits are just perma out of stock?
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# ? Nov 10, 2015 22:50 |
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Chance II posted:All those Hi-Mocks got me thinking about Gundam again so I was checking out what was available from the early war UC part of Mobile Suit Gundam. I'm not sure about the way HLJ handles stock. It might be a better question to ask here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3678195 Also, if you want to look at picture reviews of a bunch of the Gundam kits, try this site: http://dalong.net He has like 95% of all kits there. The Hi-Mock is a 1/144 scale, normal detail kit which are labeled as "HG". Same scale, high detail is "RG". 1/100 scale, high detail is "MG". And, finally, "PG" is 1/60 scale, insane detail.
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# ? Nov 10, 2015 23:28 |
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Back ordered means HLJ is trying to get some more of that kit from Bandai, though there's no guarantee of when it'll happen. btw HLJ uses the term discontinued for products that have no chance of coming back in stock.
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# ? Nov 10, 2015 23:39 |
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Okay cool. I don't mind waiting on restock so I'll just make sure it isn't straight up discontinued. I think I remember buying a Magellan cruiser kit from them years ago that had to be restocked and took around a month.
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# ? Nov 11, 2015 00:08 |
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I don't understand why they don't just mount the sort of weapons they give gundams to kill each other on something much smaller and cheaper like a tank. But I guess that doesn't make good anime.
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# ? Nov 11, 2015 00:31 |
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Baronjutter posted:I don't understand why they don't just mount the sort of weapons they give gundams to kill each other on something much smaller and cheaper like a tank. But I guess that doesn't make good anime. Same question I always had with Battletech, as much I love it. Why develop these amazing weapon systems and then put them on the most vulnerable platform around, one that can be knocked out by taking off a leg?
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# ? Nov 11, 2015 00:35 |
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When looking for the Mock, I forgot about my local weird greasy anime store, which naturally had one between the boob mousepads and underage witch figurines. I'm in for crap tank bot!
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# ? Nov 11, 2015 00:38 |
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Baronjutter posted:I don't understand why they don't just mount the sort of weapons they give gundams to kill each other on something much smaller and cheaper like a tank. But I guess that doesn't make good anime. Got it in one. Giant mecha suits are more appealing than tanks to the type of people interested in action shows targeted at little kids and teenagers.
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# ? Nov 11, 2015 00:54 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 19:49 |
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I actually really like those little gundam UC tanks, can you get them on their own? They're 1:144 which is sort of close to my 1:160 but they're not real tanks so being over-sized will just make them look more future.
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# ? Nov 11, 2015 01:01 |