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Hopefully this helps save someone a dumb mistake - on edgerouter x make sure you set listen-on to switch0 not eth2 if you're using the wizard configuration and are trying to set up upnp2
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Nov 9, 2015 03:59
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Rukus posted:Always go with Intel when it comes to networking if you can. Intel 7260HMWDTX1 PCI-E is your best bet, has a movable external antenna and includes bluetooth if you're lacking for that as well. I have a 7260 as well and enjoy its functionality with fixed antennas, but I stupidly got it in mini-PCIe form factor and didn't get a movable external antenna for it, making the desktop a bit hard to keep under a desk. Does it have a separate SKU that Intel sells separately?
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Nov 9, 2015 07:33
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:I have a 7260 as well and enjoy its functionality with fixed antennas, but I stupidly got it in mini-PCIe form factor and didn't get a movable external antenna for it, making the desktop a bit hard to keep under a desk. Does it have a separate SKU that Intel sells separately? I'm having a really tough time trying to find a product page for just the antenna in the Intel kit. You could try contacting their support to see about ordering one directly from them. Or you could buy a third-party dual antenna, just make sure the connectors are RP-SMA, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Performance-Bandwidth-Wireless-Omni-directional/dp/B00L43HN2K.
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Nov 9, 2015 08:50
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That looks perfect--are those antenna sockets modular? I'd love to put my ASUS directional antennas on them. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Nov 9, 2015 09:04
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Hard to tell from the pictures, they might be molded to the base. Aliexpress has one that shows removable antennas: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...1295889206.html
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Nov 9, 2015 12:16
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I'm looking at doing the EdgerouterX and 2 AC-Lite APs. I'm going to mounting the APs in the ceilings of my house which doesn't have easy accessible power outlets. Is there a recommended switch or would it be better to get the EdgeRouter PoE, which looks to have 3 PoE ports?
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Nov 9, 2015 14:00
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AC-Lites come with PoE injectors, so you can use them with any non-PoE device. The injector can be plugged in where your ERX is, and your powered line would then run to wherever you're installing the APs.
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Nov 9, 2015 14:13
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Rukus posted:AC-Lites come with PoE injectors, so you can use them with any non-PoE device. The injector can be plugged in where your ERX is, and your powered line would then run to wherever you're installing the APs. I didn't even know this kind of thing existed. This is cool.
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Nov 9, 2015 14:18
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Rukus posted:The injector can be plugged in where your ERX is, and your powered line would then run to wherever you're installing the APs.
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Nov 9, 2015 15:46
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bitcoin savant posted:Do you have to have a EdgerouterX to use one of those APs or can I hook it up to my pfsense box instead? Trying to replace an old 3COM PoE AP that has an injector - the pfsense box doesn't provide power. Ubiquiti's APs are vendor agnostic; just plug them into an available port to any switch/router. To configure them you have to run their management software/controller application which you can install on any PC on your network. Just keep in mind that the AC-Lite (and AC-Lite LR) uses a proprietary 24v adapter, so make sure to use it instead of the 802.11af adapter that the 3COM is using.
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Nov 9, 2015 16:14
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bitcoin savant posted:Do you have to have a EdgerouterX to use one of those APs or can I hook it up to my pfsense box instead? Trying to replace an old 3COM PoE AP that has an injector - the pfsense box doesn't provide power. The APs can be used with any random router. I have mine paired to a pfSense box and they all work just fine together. Even assigning different vlans to different SSIDs works properly. (I also have a vlan capable switch.) As was mentioned earlier the APs come with PoE injectors so you don't need to worry about having a PoE switch or router.
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Nov 9, 2015 16:17
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Rukus posted:AC-Lites come with PoE injectors, so you can use them with any non-PoE device. The injector can be plugged in where your ERX is, and your powered line would then run to wherever you're installing the APs. Router and APs would be in different portions of the house. Router will be located in the basement, while APs will be on the first and second stories, one on each side of the house. I'll have easy access to the ceilings in each room via the attic. Unfortunately, no plugs in the attic for the injectors.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:00
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calandryll posted:Router and APs would be in different portions of the house. Router will be located in the basement, while APs will be on the first and second stories, one on each side of the house. I'll have easy access to the ceilings in each room via the attic. Unfortunately, no plugs in the attic for the injectors. That's the whole point of the injectors. They go where the switch is, not where the AP is.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:06
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the nicker posted:That's the whole point of the injectors. They go where the switch is, not where the AP is. Ok, I was totally misunderstanding thinking they needed to be right next to the AP. Problem solved then!
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Nov 9, 2015 17:12
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Rukus posted:Ubiquiti's APs are vendor agnostic; just plug them into an available port to any switch/router. To configure them you have to run their management software/controller application which you can install on any PC on your network. Antillie posted:The APs can be used with any random router. I have mine paired to a pfSense box and they all work just fine together. Even assigning different vlans to different SSIDs works properly. (I also have a vlan capable switch.) As was mentioned earlier the APs come with PoE injectors so you don't need to worry about having a PoE switch or router.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:59
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Technical/Methodology question: I have to do multiple long runs from a main switch/hub to several workstations in several rooms. This involves running alot of CAT6 through ceiling tiles and walls ect. My question: there's a big portion of the run, more than half, which is all in one direction (ie all 8 cables in this case have to go to one general area first before dispersing them to their respective rooms/workstations). I was thinking that instead of making the run 8 individual times, instead I would pre-cut 8 cables of the same long length, then run them all at the same time to this one central area (across a hall way and down a bit) and then making up the ends and slapping couplers on the end of each. THEN making the individual runs to each final destination with a separate cable and connecting them to these already-made cables with the couplers. I'm sorry if that makes no sense but the general question is: How sound is it to make long runs with a coupler in the middle? Is it identical to making one long cable or will there be an appreciable difference? These couplers are cat6 rated, for the record.
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Nov 9, 2015 20:19
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Gozinbulx posted:Technical/Methodology question: I have to do multiple long runs from a main switch/hub to several workstations in several rooms. This involves running alot of CAT6 through ceiling tiles and walls ect. My question: there's a big portion of the run, more than half, which is all in one direction (ie all 8 cables in this case have to go to one general area first before dispersing them to their respective rooms/workstations). I was thinking that instead of making the run 8 individual times, instead I would pre-cut 8 cables of the same long length, then run them all at the same time to this one central area (across a hall way and down a bit) and then making up the ends and slapping couplers on the end of each. THEN making the individual runs to each final destination with a separate cable and connecting them to these already-made cables with the couplers. What you are describing can be done. Since couplers aren't twisted they are a bit more susceptible to interference (unless they are shielded anyway) than a regular cable. But in most cases that doesn't matter. The easier solution would be to only run one cable across that long distance and just put a switch on the far end and break out the individual drops from the switch. However the switch would need power so you might need to run an extension cord to the location along with the cat6 cable or buy an expensive PoE powered switch and an injector. That switch is meant for IP camera security systems but you can power it with PoE and then use it connect PCs to the network like any other switch. The external power adapter is optional and only needed if you want the switch to provide PoE to a bunch of cameras. Unless I had lots of spare money I think I would just run an extension cord and use a normal cheap switch. Antillie fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 21:58
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Thanks for the info. The wrinkle is that these runs are actually going into switches in their respective rooms. Assuming that the operating procedure is to have as few switches as possible on your network (right?) i figured I should make individual runs to each switch instead of connecting all the switches to another swtich.
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Nov 9, 2015 22:29
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I'm looking to set up something like pfsense on my server box. Shoudl I be looking at a NIC like this to expand my nics?
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Nov 9, 2015 23:00
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Gothmog1065 posted:I'm looking to set up something like pfsense on my server box. Shoudl I be looking at a NIC like this to expand my nics? Something like that. It'll be much cheaper to get a intel dual port nic like that off ebay. I paid 30 bucks for an dell branded intel nic. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-EXPI9...p0AAOSwstxU2oeL
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Nov 9, 2015 23:28
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Yeah, pulled server parts are great for getting stuff cheap. Also make sure you're getting the right kind of card - the linked Newegg one is PCI, not PCIe.
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Nov 10, 2015 00:37
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Intel Pro 1000 PT's (like the eBay link above) are good. Use one of them for pfsense and it's run flawlessly.
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Nov 10, 2015 03:41
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I don't suppose anyone in here is familiar with carrier level fiber-to-the-home stuff, specifically Calix? I have an 854G-1 router from my ISP and when I call them they simply can't enable bridge mode on it. They say they're looking all through the config and they don't see it as an option, then eventually come back and say "yeah i guess it's just not possible on these". But what's funny is that *I* can turn on bridge mode no problem, through the support login which I was able to find after some googling. When I log in as the support user I get a whole other menu of poo poo that I'm sure was not intended for end users. Anyway I can go into service WAN VLANs and change the service type from routed to bridged, and select which ethernet ports I want on the bridge. It works great.... until I reboot, then everything in that menu gets reset. I assume because it's downloading those settings at each boot (the normal settings like dhcp and port forwarding crap do stay between reboots). I'm sure it's possible for them to change it, they either just don't have it setup for the support guys to be able to do it (although they can do it on all of their cable modems and other fiber gear, just not the Calix stuff) or the support guys simply don't know where to look. They're really candid with me so I if told them where to find it they would probably try for me. But documentation is pretty scarce. It's a long shot I know, but maybe someone here works for a provider that runs calix?
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Nov 10, 2015 06:20
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the nicker posted:I don't suppose anyone in here is familiar with carrier level fiber-to-the-home stuff, specifically Calix? I have an 854G-1 router from my ISP and when I call them they simply can't enable bridge mode on it. They say they're looking all through the config and they don't see it as an option, then eventually come back and say "yeah i guess it's just not possible on these". I've never used Calix gear, but it sounds like you're only changing running config and not saving the changes to the config file Generally this is done with a command like "nvram commit" on a lot of devices, poke around for something like that in the calix device. It's likely not exposed on the web interface and you'll have to telnet/ssh in to the device and issue the command. John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 07:12
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:Where are you seeing the edgerouter x for 50? Everywhere I've looked they've been around 65-70. I'm looking to pick one up today actually... https://www.streakwave.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=ER-X&eq=&Tp=&o1=0
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Nov 10, 2015 08:32
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I snagged a new ERX off eBay from a US seller for 55 shipped. I'll check when I get to a computer if that same seller has more stock. Edit: Looks like the seller I went through (an Authorized UBNT US seller) doesn't have any more listed. Moey fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 15:10
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Gozinbulx posted:Thanks for the info. Yes and no. Unless you are doing something much larger and more complex than a home network you don't need to worry about how many switches you have connected together. Generally the limit depends on how many hosts you have on the layer 2 segment and how much they like to generate broadcast traffic (this is very OS and application dependent). I have never seen a switch max out its CAM table in normal operation due to too many hosts being on the layer 2 segment. You will always hit the broadcast limit first. (ie: broadcasts are using enough bandwidth to noticeably slow the network down) Unless you have several hundred hosts on the network (or your hosts are doing something that generates lots and lots of broadcast traffic) or you need to be able to guarantee bandwidth availability to certain hosts I would just use another switch and not worry about it. The only reason I would make 8 separate runs is if I didn't want the 8 access switches to all share the same 1 gigabit up-link from the aggregation switch to the rest of the network and I didn't have the budget for an aggregation switch that could do a 10 gigabit uplink. (If was worried about hitting the broadcast limit I would be installing a router instead of a switch at the aggregation layer.) Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 16:42
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Antillie posted:Yes and no. Unless you are doing something much larger and more complex than a home network you don't need to worry about how many switches you have connected together. Generally the limit depends on how many hosts you have on the layer 2 segment and how much they like to generate broadcast traffic (this is very OS and application dependent). I have never seen a switch max out its CAM table in normal operation due to too many hosts being on the layer 2 segment. You will always hit the broadcast limit first. (ie: broadcasts are using enough bandwidth to noticeably slow the network down) Unless you have several hundred hosts on the network or need to be able to guarantee bandwidth availability to certain hosts I would just use another switch and not worry about it. Lots of great info (I'm cheating, this is for an office setting with quite a few computers, so I have alot to consider). Thank you sir!
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Nov 10, 2015 16:56
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Gozinbulx posted:Lots of great info (I'm cheating, this is for an office setting with quite a few computers, so I have alot to consider). Thank you sir! Glad to help. But if you feel that you are outside your realm of expertise you might want to hire a consultant. Business networks tend to quickly leave the whimsical and carefree realm of home networking and promptly enter the gritty and unforgiving halls of network engineering where these things really do start to matter. Antillie fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 17:03
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A school I work with need wifi in a room for one night only to support ~40 devices! There's an Asus RT-N16 here. Would I be mad to use it? I'll suggest they buy a Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC otherwise, but it's quite a bit of money that can be saved if it's not needed.
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Nov 10, 2015 18:43
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That thing will most likely crash and burn with that many clients trying to access it all at the same time. The datasheet for the Unifi AC APs states they can support up to 200 clients, more than enough for your use case. As for the price, are you looking at the older, square enclosure model? That one has been superseded by their newer lineup that's a lot less expensive (the UAP-AC-LITE has an MSRP of $90), though a bit harder to find at the moment due to supply constraints.
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Nov 10, 2015 19:02
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alanthecat posted:A school I work with need wifi in a room for one night only to support ~40 devices! There's an Asus RT-N16 here. Would I be mad to use it? I'll suggest they buy a Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC otherwise, but it's quite a bit of money that can be saved if it's not needed. Yeah for a school that Asus will crash and burn, maybe in the first 24 hours even. The Ubiquiti would work great as would a Mikrotik. Food for thought.
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Nov 10, 2015 19:15
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37th Chamber posted:I've never used Calix gear, but it sounds like you're only changing running config and not saving the changes to the config file Yeah I tried that. There is a 'save' command in the CLI but it doesn't save that stuff. it's definitely downloading those settings from the headend at boot. They've got to change it in some sort of service provisioning tool I'm thinking. I'm bummed because this EdgeRouter is bad rear end and I was looking forward to doing cool poo poo with it, but I'm not dealing with double-natted bullshit so I guess I'm just going to return it. I'll try calling Grande again in a few months and maybe they'll have it figured out by then. It sucks, but not enough for me to go back to cable. 1g up/down for 50 bucks a month is insane. e: goddammit this loving thing doesn't do hairpin nat either. This is gonna suck more than i thought. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 00:03
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After reading the thread I'm really tempted to switch out my current router for an Ubiquiti setup. However, I'm having trouble finding a seller that is selling either the Edgemax X or the UniFi AC Lite for MSRP. Am I looking in the wrong places?
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Nov 11, 2015 23:28
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kimcicle posted:After reading the thread I'm really tempted to switch out my current router for an Ubiquiti setup. However, I'm having trouble finding a seller that is selling either the Edgemax X or the UniFi AC Lite for MSRP. Am I looking in the wrong places? I think you are looking for the Edge Router X which is here: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edge...rds=edge+router The UniFi AC's Lites are still hard to find. Mikrotik has these units with a 90 deg antenna, perfect for the corner of a house or similar area. They are truely badass, set it and forget it, but require at least some knowledge of how access points should work. http://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-Rout...ywords=Mikrotik redeyes fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 23:41
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kimcicle posted:After reading the thread I'm really tempted to switch out my current router for an Ubiquiti setup. However, I'm having trouble finding a seller that is selling either the Edgemax X or the UniFi AC Lite for MSRP. Am I looking in the wrong places? Streakwave is the biggest west coast distributor of Ubiquiti gear, but $58 shipped is an excellent price if you have Amazon Prime like Redeyes said. The UniFi AC Lite is backordered ~2 months last I checked with my account rep at Streakwave. I'm still waiting on a 5-pack of AC Pro's ordered in October.
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Nov 12, 2015 00:26
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If I set a router (Asus RT-N16) up in bridge mode, can I also set it up so that everything physically connected to that device is on its own network? Its my old router and I'd like to use it to connect my computer lab equipment to the internet without interfering with my casual equipment.
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Nov 13, 2015 00:23
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So dumb/kinda limited question: I want out from under comcast's thumb with their poo poo modem/wifi combo. I have $250 in credit at Target which makes my options limited, but luckily they carry the DOCSIS 3 modem I was going to buy anyhow, so which wireless router should I get from the following list: http://www.target.com/c/networking-...om&max_price=to It's just myself and my girlfriend in our condo but lovely wifi is making her pull her hair out and my hope is getting a good router will help fix that. Also irritated by Comcast's new choice of locking my modem down so I can't change any internal settings like port forwarding. Honestly don't even worry about the price of the routers on there, just tell me what my best options are (or I'm gonna buy the loving stealth bomber because more antennas/stealth bomber appearance=better interwebs right???)
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Nov 13, 2015 04:06
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Tensokuu posted:So dumb/kinda limited question: I want out from under comcast's thumb with their poo poo modem/wifi combo. I have $250 in credit at Target which makes my options limited, but luckily they carry the DOCSIS 3 modem I was going to buy anyhow, so which wireless router should I get from the following list: Netgear Nighthawk.
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Nov 13, 2015 04:25
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Tensokuu posted:So dumb/kinda limited question: I want out from under comcast's thumb with their poo poo modem/wifi combo. I have $250 in credit at Target which makes my options limited, but luckily they carry the DOCSIS 3 modem I was going to buy anyhow, so which wireless router should I get from the following list: Get the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 which they are charging $202 for. Here's smallnetbuilder's rankings, it's #1 for wan-lan throughput: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/tools/charts/router/view
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Nov 13, 2015 07:31
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