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Laranzu posted:Just goes to show you these things are pretty reliable, considering it ran for some reason. May be the understatement of the year there.
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Nov 16, 2015 01:43
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TheNothingNew posted:So... So... asked about this, recommendation was to pressure wash the engine but do not have access to a pressure washer and was afraid of driving it like that. Life got in the way for a bit, so it's been sitting. Until tonight! Point is, can someone tell me what the hell this hole is and why it would be dripping what I assume is transmission fluid like crazy? Seriously, like 10 drips going back and forward to put the car on ramps.  (back of the transmission bellhousing, looking toward the front of the car. image not mine, so if it's a little off that's why)
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Nov 16, 2015 02:33
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TheNothingNew posted:So... asked about this, recommendation was to pressure wash the engine but do not have access to a pressure washer and was afraid of driving it like that. Life got in the way for a bit, so it's been sitting. Until tonight! Point is, can someone tell me what the hell this hole is and why it would be dripping what I assume is transmission fluid like crazy? Seriously, like 10 drips going back and forward to put the car on ramps. destructo fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 02:48
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Right as i say that, and drop the extra oil... https://youtu.be/k5ECVIr6YhU Sounds like a spun bearing
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Nov 16, 2015 03:08
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destructo posted:That's the transmission weep hole. Your rear main seal is hosed. The only other thing around there that leaks is if you screwed up an AC removal, but it probably wouldn't look like it was coming out of that hole. Ah, gently caress me. Thanks, though. At least it gives me a direction to swear in. I have no idea what I am doing, and the thought of having to remove an engine makes me miss my crappy econobox. Balls to everything.
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Nov 16, 2015 03:19
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Took the ND to my first autocross in over a year (FL SCCA state championships). Performed really, really poorly. Overall did the worst I've ever done at an event (previously drove an NA and an e92 m3 with far better results). The car is completely stock, and I was really surprised by how slippery the tires felt. The gearing was also a disaster. I've never shifted out of 2nd gear in any previous events over the years. Yesterday, on my final lap, I was shifting in four places. I had four dirty laps out of 5 (also rare for me). My final lap I dropped a whole second off my run, but hit a cone (in all honesty it wasn't even a critical cone... kind of surprised it happened). That said, it sure was a popular car!... I felt like I let MX-5 drivers everywhere down. I am firmly a believer that the slowest part of the car is the idiot behind the seat, and doing so poorly has definitely inspired me to tune myself up, but I do hope some proper tires, a front sway bar, and an alignment will help bridge the gap just a bit (and maybe a slower course).
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Nov 16, 2015 03:42
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If you haven't gotten an alignment, do that first.
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Nov 16, 2015 03:52
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Laranzu posted:Right as i say that, and drop the extra oil... All I hear in that video are the lifters. Putting too much oil in the crankcase shouldn't hurt anything but the seals which are in danger of being blown out.
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Nov 16, 2015 04:34
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TheNothingNew posted:Ah, gently caress me. Thanks, though. At least it gives me a direction to swear in. Good luck! If you don't have AC, I'd probably just pull the engine and do it out of the car, but you could just drop the trans and do it that way as well. From what I've gathered dropping the trans sucks all the butts. Pulling an engine is relatively simple. Haven't tried to put it back in yet though :v
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Nov 16, 2015 04:42
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leica posted:All I hear in that video are the lifters. Nah, you can definitely get oiling problems from overfull engines - the crank whips the top of the oil up and the pump starts sucking foam instead of straight oil.
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Nov 16, 2015 04:45
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Don't you people ever check the oil level after you change it? Woulda figured that poo poo out quick if you did.
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Nov 16, 2015 04:51
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leica posted:All I hear in that video are the lifters. The lifters are a much lighter tick underneath that. You can hear them during the first second or so. The clack is new, and awful. Pulled the wire on plug #1 and it definitely sounds like its cylinder #1. Normally just dump out the oil and drop in a full bottle of Rotella T6. So I never bother checking the oil level. It only read just barely above the full line of the dipstick anyway. I'd be damned if ~8qts didn't come out of it though.
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Nov 16, 2015 05:15
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Phone posted:If you haven't gotten an alignment, do that first. Yeah... forgot to add that to the list. I've seen the before numbers on some cars and they look pretty atrocious.
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Nov 16, 2015 13:39
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Laranzu posted:I'd be damned if ~8qts didn't come out of it though. So drain plug mix up aside, when did you finally come to realize your mistake?
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Nov 16, 2015 17:45
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Chriskory posted:So drain plug mix up aside, when did you finally come to realize your mistake? Got under the car. Saw the washer I used for the oil change sitting on the transmission plug. Then all the differences between the transmission drain and the oil drain became obvious and the wave of idiocy washed over me.
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Nov 16, 2015 18:00
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destructo posted:I'd be more angry at the shop that did your clutch and didn't bother you to replace it really. Doubly so, as I thought this was a shop I could trust, and now I no longer have one of those. Do have AC, and not interested in dealing with that, so going to try dropping the transmission. If anyone has ideas, tips or hints, let me know please. I am fully willing to admit to being kind of an idiot. Consumables for rear main seal replacement: rear main seal and 2 bottles of MT-90, right? So this: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/SEAL%2COIL-C%7B47%7DSHAFT-%28BP05%252d11%252d312%29.html and two of these: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/REDLINE-MT%252d90-%28MT%252d90%29.html right? Someone check me on this, please. Anything else I'm likely to bodge or will otherwise need replacing while doing this?
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Nov 17, 2015 02:57
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TheNothingNew posted:Doubly so, as I thought this was a shop I could trust, and now I no longer have one of those. A crazy old Miata guy in town swears its easier to pull the engine and tranny as one unit and then separate them outside the car. I can see how its possible, due to the bolt locations on top of the bell housing. I'm going to try it that way when I pull this engine. Just talked to a pretty highly recommended machine shop in town. Looking at ~$1300 labor for all the work to unfuck and rebuild an engine. Should be able to fit in the bits I want for under $700 in parts. Think i'm going to do that with intentions to turbo from a known good baseline. The lovely part about living on an Island is the supply of low mileage engines is much more finite than normal. It looks like I can get a 1.6 with 141k and possibly needing a valve job for cheap, a good looking (on craigslist) '99 car with 180k for $2200 (mmmm. VICS) But those might explode too.
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Nov 17, 2015 03:47
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Just get a VVT motor and grab a VICS manifold, you wuss. If you're going to do it, do it right.
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Nov 17, 2015 03:54
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Buy a K Series
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Nov 17, 2015 04:00
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poo poo for $700-1300 just hit the local LKQ and pick up enough LS3 to make a locomotive buy dick-enlarging pills from the back of a magazine. Then twin-supercharge it with one junkyard Eaton M90 on each bank.
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Nov 17, 2015 04:03
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All of these ideas are super plausible with the abundance of parts on the mainland. However I live on an island chain in the middle of the Pacific ocean. If I can fashion the LSx/K-series subframe and driveline components out of coconuts it wouldn't cost 200% more than the parts to ship them. There are more than enough engines floating around from idiot junior enlisted military ramming their cars into things backwards. There is a locomotive graveyard from when we still had a railway. If I can't find enough LS3s to make a locomotive I'll find enough old rear end locomotives to make a corvette engine. Edit: If a nice VVT shows up though, I'm on it.
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Nov 17, 2015 04:19
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Three days and 20 dollars to replace the stupid license plate illuminators. lovely brittle plastic and bulbs nobody has in stock locally: a winning combination.
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Nov 18, 2015 03:03
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TheNothingNew posted:Doubly so, as I thought this was a shop I could trust, and now I no longer have one of those. A/C can be zip-tied off to the side when pulling the engine. I pulled the engine instead of dropping the transmission when I replaced the clutch and rear main. Get a shifter rebuild kit if you haven't already. I used Mnet hardon inducing Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS, so it must be good. http://www.miata.net/garage/clutch/ is a good guide for dropping the transmission. Get a cheap seal puller if you don't have one, it will save your crank. GP035 fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 04:12
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G Money posted:A/C can be zip-tied off to the side when pulling the engine. I pulled the engine instead of dropping the transmission when I replaced the clutch and rear main. Get a shifter rebuild kit if you haven't already. I used Mnet hardon inducing Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS, so it must be good. Cheap seal puller, check. Rebuilt the shifter last year, should be good there. Gonna go read that walkthrough a couple dozen more times. Thanks.
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Nov 18, 2015 05:33
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Dropping just the trans is easy. I'd go that route before pulling the engine any day.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:21
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It's probably less time consuming to pull the motor and trans out as one than it is to just drop the trans. There are a few snags that you might run into, but I would minimize the amount of time I spend under the car to do the same job (and more) with it coming out with the motor.
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Nov 18, 2015 18:32
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If you have a lift dropping the trans is faster and easier. If no lift, pulling the motor and trans out the top is gonna be a hell of a lot faster and easier than lying underneath the car on jackstands.
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Nov 18, 2015 20:40
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I've done it both ways on jack stands. The only real issue with pulling the trans was manuevering it while on my back and getting back up and in and lined up. Both ways have poo poo in the way or whatever. I guess it depends on if you need to do coolant or something anyway besides the clutch.
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Nov 19, 2015 03:25
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It depends on the person I guess, If all you know is jack stands then it's probably not a big deal, but after doing clutch jobs on a lift no way I would want to do it with the bottom of the car two inches from my face on my back. To each his own. [e] honestly at this point in my life i'd rather pay somebody else to do it 
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Nov 19, 2015 03:33
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leica posted:[e] honestly at this point in my life i'd rather pay somebody else to do it How I got here in the first place, rear end. Also this car is perfect aside from this seal, so I don't need to do anything with the clutch itself. Don''t have a lift, don't have an engine hoist. Need to buy a better jack and figure out some kind of cradle for the transmission to sit on.
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Nov 19, 2015 04:00
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TheNothingNew posted:How I got here in the first place, rear end. It isn't that heavy and without a trans jack it will probably just fall off the jack anyway. If you can bench press 75 lbs, you'll probably be just fine but another person makes it super simple.
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Nov 19, 2015 14:07
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Who makes good winter mats for an NC?
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Nov 19, 2015 14:57
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Must resist the call of the ND...
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Nov 19, 2015 14:58
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lookslikerain posted:Who makes good winter mats for an NC? I have some on my basement floor I am trying to get rid of that came with the car when I bought it. They are weathertech.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:40
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Oh Hey Phone, I saw you driving down Davis in the ND yesterday.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:50
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djfooboo posted:Must resist the call of the ND... Right there with you. And now that the Fiata's official specs and photos are out, it's making it even harder. I still think the Mazda overall looks better, but the allure of that 1.4 Turbo that can be piggyback ECU tuned to ~200hp for like $600 is real. If the exhaust they slap on there sounds half as mean as a 500 Abarth then god drat. It doesn't help matters that Fiat has already said they are planning an Abarth version of the 124. It's the Mazdaspeed Miata that Mazda is too afraid to build.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:32
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Sigma X posted:Oh Hey Phone, I saw you driving down Davis in the ND yesterday. Get back to work. Went to Dawat with a coworker and saw his wife and mom crossing the street to the HT on the way there, too.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:39
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Guinness posted:Right there with you. And now that the Fiata's official specs and photos are out, it's making it even harder. For those who believe the NB was the pinnacle of Miata design, the 124 has to be the second coming.
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Nov 20, 2015 01:25
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Engine and trans out. Pulled them out together. Had a lift and electric impact. Took about 9 hours. This was the first time doing it. Has some wear on the input shaft of the transmission, which makes me wonder about the inside of the trans since it was run without oil. Have a line on 2 possible replacements. I have no idea how this thing got so loving oily. Thought we had the leaks pinned down. This guide was phenomenal for finding grounds and dumb sensor wires. http://did-it-myself.com/removing-a-miata-engine/
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Nov 22, 2015 05:10
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I have an injector with a crack in the pintle cap. The crack runs along the side of the cap, up around the end of it, and down again. The crack is a little bit away from the actual fuel-spraying business end, and ends just where the rubber seal sits. It doesn't look too bad, the cap doesn't seem to want to come off, and when I push on it the crack closes up neatly. Wiggling it around (and comparing to other injectors) it doesn't seem to be loose at all. How much of a reason for concern is this? Will this somehow affect the performance of the injector? I have another spare injector that is broken/blocked but the pintle cap seems good, can that be transplanted somehow?   
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Nov 22, 2015 23:07
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