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Ebay some old Lufkins or Mitutoyo, that's what I did, at least. Edit: Bore gauges are a bit pricier, though. I got a Mitutoyo model and it served me pretty well. The kind with the little wheels and a plunger. Make sure to get one that has anvils for the range you intend to measure, also make sure to get an appropriately sized micrometer to set it with, as error increases the further you get from 0 so guessing really isn't helpful. Also make sure to get a standard to set that micrometer with, and finally make sure that everything is at the same temperature when you set and measure. Measuring in the tenths range is pretty involved! Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Nov 23, 2015 |
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Nov 23, 2015 04:49
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Commodore_64 posted:Ebay some old Lufkins or Mitutoyo, that's what I did, at least. If you're going to eBay either of those you may as well just skip the bullshit and get these: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448293875&sr=8-1&keywords=micrometer Because that's what's inside of $60 ebay Mitus. And honestly they work just fine.
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Nov 23, 2015 16:51
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I think he's looking for mics not calipers. I haven't done any high end stuff to check calibration, but I've just used eBay used mitutoyos.
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Nov 23, 2015 19:02
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Yeah, those jaws will not work for measuring crank journals, they aren't nearly long enough.
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Nov 23, 2015 20:51
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The same basic logic applies. I don't think there's a great accuracy difference between cheapo Ebay ones and pukka Mitutoyo stuff, but they definitely don't feel as nice. Edit: I should probably do a comparison of my cheap ones with the proper kit at work.
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Nov 23, 2015 21:22
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The cheap ones also eat batteries, and don't warn you if they're low. AvE did a review on YouTube, it's worth a watch: https://youtu.be/WvszAb0Y0Ec
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Nov 23, 2015 23:23
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Yeah for my HF digital caliper I have to keep the battery outside of it when it's in its case. Otherwise it's insanely easy for it to get bumped and turn on, then happily drain the battery.
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Nov 23, 2015 23:31
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Motronic posted:If you're going to eBay either of those you may as well just skip the bullshit and get these: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448293875&sr=8-1&keywords=micrometer Apart from calipers, I prefer to avoid digital readouts on these sorts of measuring instruments. Mechanical portions still wear out, but you don't have to deal with having an irreparable lump after a button cell looses its contents. That and ordinary micrometers are very inexpensive. Some digital indicators or micrometers have really neat features, like setting up a pseudo analog scale with your tolerance limit marked on it, reversed reading, recorded min/max etc. And digital outputs. But mine are for me measuring a one off part or crankshaft, not for 5000+ measurements of the same dimension.
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Nov 24, 2015 03:08
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Presented without comment.  http://i.imgur.com/735PxrW.jpg
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Nov 24, 2015 03:40
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah for my HF digital caliper I have to keep the battery outside of it when it's in its case. Otherwise it's insanely easy for it to get bumped and turn on, then happily drain the battery. Someone once told me the on/off button only operates the display, and the measuring circuit is always active. I assume he measured it because he took the time to disassemble it and add a switch in series with the battery.
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Nov 24, 2015 05:30
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Someone once told me the on/off button only operates the display, and the measuring circuit is always active. I assume he measured it because he took the time to disassemble it and add a switch in series with the battery. Yeah the above AvE review mentions this (or, rather, a followup video). Takes like 5-10 times the current as a good caliper, too.
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Nov 24, 2015 07:45
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Presented without comment. Yea thats what I want out of metal cutting disks...not a tendency not to explode...but rather softcore porn
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Nov 24, 2015 20:51
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CarForumPoster posted:Yea thats what I want out of metal cutting disks...not a tendency not to explode...but rather softcore porn It's actually just telling you its intended application: cutting up dead hookers
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Nov 25, 2015 01:35
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Softcore porn is just for light-duty grinding applications. For serious business like trimwork you want hardcore, the firm center can go a lot longer before it explodes.
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Nov 25, 2015 02:50
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Splizwarf posted:Softcore porn is just for light-duty grinding applications. For serious business like trimwork you want hardcore, the firm center can go a lot longer before it explodes. I'd but the hell out of some goatse cutoff discs.
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Nov 25, 2015 05:22
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I got this free compressor. The regulator snapped off the tank, leaving a little stub of threaded pipe in there. I broke out the screw extractor a few weeks ago. Sprayed it down with PB Blaster every few days, broke a wrench trying to remove the little bit of pipe. Then I entered gently caress-it mode. I hammered a 12 point socket onto the extractor, then wrapped everything in electrical tape to limit fragments.  Then I broke out the big guns.  Nothing. I reefed on that thing for several minutes. Then I got out the torch and tried harder. That broken off bit of of pipe won't move, and somehow I didn't shatter everything. gently caress. Is free compressor worth drilling it out and helicoiling it?
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Nov 26, 2015 20:28
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I'd do it if I had the helicoil kit for that size sitting around, but otherwise gently caress that.
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Nov 26, 2015 20:56
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What can work in these cases is to drill/ream out the fitting until you're just inside the thread diameter, then re-tap it.
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Nov 26, 2015 21:19
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Are there even NPT helicoils? There looks to be a lot of meat left on the bung. Can it be drilled and tapped to the next largest size? I have no idea how that would affect it's pressure capability.
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Nov 26, 2015 22:16
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That will be fine, drill and retap to the next NPT size up and use a thread adapter. Just make sure to put thread tape or dope on it. It's a taper thread so as far as I know you are poo poo outta luck on drilling just inside the minor diameter and also no helicoils available afaik. But the solution is easy and I bet the tap/drill kit will cost like 15 bucks at home depot.
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Nov 27, 2015 02:52
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kastein posted:That will be fine, drill and retap to the next NPT size up and use a thread adapter. Just make sure to put thread tape or dope on it. This is what I would do. Is there a water drain on the bottom? After you drill and tap and clean up the new threads, I would want to flush all the metal shavings out. They'll probably just sit at the bottom and do nothing, but the thought of tiny pieces of metal flying through my expensive air tools makes me cringe.
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Nov 27, 2015 05:47
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Is this where I ask what something is? Wife's uncle received an email asking what this was and I have no clue.  It has ball bearings in it and can be adjusted up and down. I have access to a couple of printed pictures like the one above but hopefully one of you can say what it is without much trouble. I tried google searching but not very well or much. Any thoughts? Should I try another thread?
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Nov 28, 2015 21:48
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It kind of reminds me of the adjustable parts on a ship's compass on the binnacle. I think they are called quadrantal spheres, but your pic has multiple sizes.
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Nov 29, 2015 01:25
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its a model of the earth and the moon to determine eclipses?
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Nov 29, 2015 01:33
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Who makes a decent set of phillips/flat fairly long 3/8 sockets? I know SnapOn makes them, but gently caress paying 30 bucks each. In other news, I picked up the 1/2 Milwaukee fuel impact and holy hell it's got a ridiculous amount of balls. I'm already thrilled with the fuel 3/8 impact and the 3/8 ratchet, but this thing exceeds all expectations wildly.
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Dec 1, 2015 04:50
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I just got a pic from the harbor freight catalog and those 44" tool chests are super cheap again, any new news on those? Are they still reasonable quality?an upper and lower are under $700!
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Dec 1, 2015 06:50
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StormDrain posted:I just got a pic from the harbor freight catalog and those 44" tool chests are super cheap again, any new news on those? Are they still reasonable quality?an upper and lower are under $700! I'm a big fan, the quality/value can't be beat. There are some other options for even cheaper combos (Husky, etc) and I suggest reading on garagejournal.com for comparisons.
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Dec 1, 2015 09:09
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How low is the bottom box in your ad? The base price is $389, and it usually never dips below $349 on sale.
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Dec 1, 2015 12:48
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Hypnolobster posted:Who makes a decent set of phillips/flat fairly long 3/8 sockets? I know SnapOn makes them, but gently caress paying 30 bucks each. On sockets? I'd just get HF since the heads are gonna strip out anyways, and neither fastener is designed for much torque. If you really wanna put some torque down on the fasteners though, you've gotta check out Wera Screwdriver sets. I finally picked up the insulated set for electrical work, and holy hell I'm shocked by just how exceptionally well the laser etched tip and ergonomic handles work together. I thought they were super gimmicky, but finally gave it a shot after listening to everyone else's rave about it for the umpteenth time, and I'm really glad I did. The screwdrivers really bite down into the slot and can easily torque Phillips past the point where it's designed to strip out. Which is useful, because Phillips is frequently used in the worst places where the manufacturer has no business using a strippable fastener. the spyder posted:I'm a big fan, the quality/value can't be beat. There are some other options for even cheaper combos (Husky, etc) and I suggest reading on garagejournal.com for comparisons. Speaking of tool boxes, I saw those Dewalt/Milawaukee chests at home depot last weekend, and I'm in love with the design, but they don't seem look very durable. What are your guys' impressions?
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Dec 1, 2015 13:23
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I just got a couple bitholder sockets for that stuff, I have a million bits anyway and I have never seen a screwdriver socket set that didn't have the head come off. Why the hell are they always 2-piece, anyway? Seems like a design pre-destined to fail. Also Wera fuckin' rules.
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Dec 1, 2015 13:53
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OSU_Matthew posted:If you really wanna put some torque down on the fasteners If you want to put a shitload of torque on a Phillips head look no further than a JIS driver. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) is very similar to Phillips, but unlike a true Phillips head it doesn't cam out when the torque load increase - instead its designed to stay seated as torque increases. Works almost as well on a normal Phillips head fastener as it does on a JIS fastener too. e: also the one I linked rotates the head by 12 degrees every time you smack the handle with a hammer.
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Dec 1, 2015 17:12
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gently caress all Philips head screw drivers, screws, and etc. The only thing I hate more than Philips is slot screws. I can never get them to come out correctly and its always hosed up. Last few projects I have done in my house was all done in square (robertson for our folks up north) headed bits, and I never stripped out one screw. Maybe I just bludgeon to much and not very gentle with screws/etc.
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Dec 1, 2015 17:40
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Phillips screws you say? Look no farther. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Demo-Drivers-with-Steel-Caps-2-Piece-48-22-2002/204221761 It's a good screwdriver even when not used as a demo driver. Times I expected to use each driver: flat blade - 32904803298540432958 phillips -  when am I gonna use this loving thingTimes I have used them: flat blade - 0. I don't even know where it is. phillips - 8540923854903285932, the first time mere days after buying the set, when ACEofsnett came over with a Honda we needed to change brake rotors on.
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Dec 1, 2015 18:10
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the spyder posted:I'm a big fan, the quality/value can't be beat. There are some other options for even cheaper combos (Husky, etc) and I suggest reading on garagejournal.com for comparisons. Splizwarf posted:How low is the bottom box in your ad? The base price is $389, and it usually never dips below $349 on sale. 369 on coups.
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Dec 1, 2015 19:55
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StormDrain posted:369 on coups. That's pretty garbage for Black Friday, that's the standard "on-sale this week!" price in the circulars. A couple times a year it'll drop to $349 but it's surprising that this wasn't one of them.
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Dec 1, 2015 21:01
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kastein posted:Phillips screws you say? Look no farther. Those rotor-to-hub screws are fun, eh? I broke an HF impact driver on the last job I dealt with them on, then was able to chisel one out going at it sideways, then had to drill out the other. The ones you linked would be even better with a hex shank for you to stick a box-end on to do your own slight rotation when hitting on them.
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Dec 2, 2015 00:53
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Splizwarf posted:That's pretty garbage for Black Friday, that's the standard "on-sale this week!" price in the circulars. A couple times a year it'll drop to $349 but it's surprising that this wasn't one of them. It's a $20 difference. You can't let Jackson stand between you and your needs. Either way I can't figure out how to squeeze 44" of free space in the garage so it's dead in the water.
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Dec 2, 2015 02:04
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Yeah yeah, $20. I made a solemn vow that if that toolbox ever dipped even a dollar below $349, I'd buy it that day. Three years later and I'm still waiting. drat old-timers and their stories about getting 'em for $250 on sale. It's a (stupid) matter of principle now. I mean, it's not like I actually need a new box (all my drawers still close! well, except for the lid), I just want that one. 
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Dec 2, 2015 03:29
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I've had mine for several years now and it's totally worth the investment. My dad and sister chipped in and bought me a top box for Christmas last year so now everything except my jack and jack stands has a tidy home.
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Dec 2, 2015 07:46
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How do you like the top box? I have the lower and locker at work and they are great. I have my old craftsman top piece on it and it only covers the half which gives a nice small writing /work surface. But with how many tools I have in really debating on getting it. Basically is it as well built as the rest?
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Dec 2, 2015 14:41
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